Yes, I'm in UK. I think you're best with Motoenergy, which in fact John Fiorenza created after he had worked with the Lynch I understand. Just because of price. Only place I know in the States besides some of the electric boat vendors is:
https://www.cloudelectric.com/category-s/442.htm
Controllers. I use:
http://www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Products/Motor-Controllers-Industrial-Vehicles/Sigmadrive/Induction-Motor-Controller.aspx
The PMT425S to be precise but should really be using the PMT445M.
I use this programmer:
http://www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Products/Motor-Controllers-Industrial-Vehicles/Programmers/Handheld-Programming/Sigma-Handheld-Programmer.aspx
No gas onboard either, what you call propane, as I use an alcohol stove:
https://www.dometic.com/en-gb/uk/products/food-and-beverage/cooking/cooktops/dometic-origo-3000-_-20432
Stick with 48V bank by all means and 1,000 shaft RPM and you'll not use all your 48V as 30V or less may be enough with suitable amps, subject to motor Kt, but at least more batteries means more range.
Lynch motor, a D125 or poss D127. I use the D135:
http://lynchmotors.co.uk/pdfs/lmc-lem-200.pdf
N-m! That's what the world uses, just America refuses to change. SI units but yeh just put that into an online convertor to get torque in units you understand.
Re shaft I had mine machined with a step in it so my coupling could not slide on the shaft. I had the shaft drilled and tapped with an 8mm hole and used a penny washer and bolt so it can't move fore or aft. Darned if I can remember if mine is 25 mm or 1".
Lynch motors are basically the same as AGNI and Saietta and is what the original eTeks were designed on. Anyhow to learn more about taking one apart see:
http://www.jozztek.com/shop/content/category/2-technical-support-videos-agni-motor-reconditioning
Hope that helps but I suspect costs too much over there when you can get cheaper motors such as your ME 0913 that is basically just as good.
John
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