Thursday, May 26, 2016

[Electric Boats] Re: Newport 28 conversion

 

Ron,
The Newport 28 is an easy enough boat to convert to electric.  This is what our computer model shows:

Newport 28

Hull Type:             Fin w/spade rudder      

Rig Type:               Masthead Sloop

LOA:                      27.74' / 8.46m   

LWL:                      25.00' / 7.62m

Beam:                   9.50' / 2.90m                       

Displacement:    7000 lbs./ 3175 kgs.       

Ballast:                 3200 lbs. / 1452 kgs.

 

10.0kW Motor Speed & Power Table                          

Kts          Amps    Watts

2.3          6              288

2.9          10           480

3.6          20           960         What a 2 kW genset will drive the boat

4.6          40           1920       A good cruising speed with about 16NM

5.2          60           2880

5.8          80           3840

6.2          100         4800      This is what a 5kW motor will deliver -90% of hull speed

7.0          140         6720       Hull speed with significant reserve

                                9800       Max power

Hull speed           6.70

Lots of boats in San Diego have converted.  You may want to join a presentation that I will be doing  at Chula Vista Marina June 11.  Hopefully one of our three San Diego Newport clients will be there as well.  .

Mike
Electric Yachts of Southern California  

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Posted by: mike@electricyachtssocal.com
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Wednesday, May 25, 2016

[Electric Boats] Re: Newport 28 conversion

 

Hi Cal,

"utterly silent"? I can hear my prop, the shaft in the cutlass bearing, the motor turn, but mine is a small boat and it is all under my feet.  Here's a public demo but mostly it is just the sound of birds and water. https://www.facebook.com/ElektraYachts/videos/1010101222372956/ To get the kind of silence you refer to I'd have thought a bigger boat with sound deadening, one being a larger distance from the prop/cutlass would be the only way for utter silence. Much like running a 7kVA diesel genny on a big sailing yacht where you can barely hear it as one is so far removed from the source.

 

When I talk about cost and simplicity, I simply mean I don't need a gearbox (or for my application a separate thrust bearing, which would be nice but space without a redesign is an issue) and I only need 2 batteries - so logically this costs less than 4 batteries plus a gearing arrangement. I've done it this way for cost, because of a very small space (double ended boat) and wanting less weight than the old 10hp diesel.

I love my alcohol/bioethanol stove. Maybe you have never used a Dometic/Origo 3000, plus set top cooker for baking bread.

I have petrol onboard and a 900 Watt continuous Honda genny fixed outside on rails with 5l of petrol stored in the old (vented to sea) gas locker but having gas (propane or calor) for cooking would risk it going into the bilge, hence the Origo.

I'm not a professional electrical engineer either (steam to trade) so what I meant is over in the US you mostly seem to use the Motoenrgy motors which came out of the Lynch design. Over in UK it is mostly Saietta/AGNI/Lynch and the other 'copied' variants such as the Perm (you got the Etek). With direct drive I've gone for a no load Kt of 0.185 n-m/amp and the directly related 45 RPM/volt. I could choose a higher Kt/lower rpm/volt but under load I'd run out of volts (rpm) as the loaded rpm is 40 rpm/volt and Kt around 0.211, with efficiencies up to 93% subject to I squared R, losses, prop used. Regardless I reckon my motor efficiency on brushed direct drive at cruise is around 89% - so most of the brushless production motors 'over your side' that seemed to be used are no better than this and often less. Having said that the Zero IPM motor is ace. Also I think the frame of the types we generally use for boats is better naturally cooled due to it's design. Sure a British YASA or Slovenian Emrax or similar would be nice at some cost but I'm happy with the proven long standing Lynch type design and simplicity.

It took me some time to get 2 LiFePO4 batteries. Here again it is because of the voltage stability, lack of Peukert, weight and energy density by volume and weight plus the extra useable (200Ah in LFP is way more useable than 200Ah of dead lead) and the cycling ability of them that makes them ideal for my direct drive system. Indeed from my calculations I think there is a case for borrowing the money to invest in lithium as I think the costs compared to AGM work out better over time even with loan interest- but of course that has to be offset against capital risk. Again horses for courses...

John

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Monday, May 23, 2016

[Electric Boats] Re: Newport 28 conversion

 

Horses for Courses, indeed.

If you can hear your electric motor or drive train while trailing prop, something is wrong. Mine is utterly silent with no power applied.

With a motor designed for low speed, direct drive operation, certainly direct drive is more efficient. Such motors are quite expensive though, compared to my $375 ME0201014201, though. For most motors, a thrust bearing is needed, anyway. So much for simplicity. My fully enclosed gearbox bolts right up to a C face mounting plate, and the motor bolts right up to the gearbox with a key to lock the motor shaft into the input. Darn near as simple as direct drive, even with an integrated thrust bearing in the direct drive motor. Gearbox and motor together are still pretty cheap. Don't remember but I think I paid $400 for the gearbox.

Agreed... chasing regen is hardly worth the effort until you get into boats that are capable of double digit speeds under sail. For under 30' boats, it should not be a major design consideration at the expense of higher priorities.

I hate alcohol stoves, though. I tossed mine when I bought the boat. Don't use propane, either, except in the Magma kettle grill on the pushpit rail. I prefer kerosene or diesel in my Primus. YMMV. But a majority of small boat sailors use propane, and gasoline portable generators are common on electric boats, and even gasoline outboards can be found on some e-boats. If a person can do without propane or gasoline onboard, then yeah, no particular safety reasons not to go brushed. You forgot the most important thing in favor of brushed motors, though. If your controller goes up in smoke, you can in an emergency hook your motor directly to the bank to get home on.Can't do that with brushless motors. Yes, I know a set of brushes can last a long time, but I was not aware that brushed motors were inherently more efficient than BLDC. Could you elaborate on this? Because my understanding is that a PMAC/BLDC motor is more efficient, by a small margin. I am not a professional electrical engineer so I will not go out on a limb and state this for a fact, but this is what I have been lead to believe, so if you know for a fact the brushed motors are more efficient than BLDC, please do explain how this is so.

I did point out that Lithium has many advantages over lead. However, as a purely auxilliary installation, with limited range requirements, issues like depth of discharge, energy density, and such, are not as important. Worth considering, yes, but for those of us who need to keep the initial cost down, lead is still king. NO WAY I could have bought a LiFePO4 bank of the same capability for the $680 I paid for my golf cart batteries. Lead isn't for everyone but neither is lithium.

TBH, if I had an unlimited budget, I would go with Edison cells. I kinda like the idea of a battery that can last 100 years.

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[Electric Boats] Re: bow thruster

 

Trolling motors on the amas would be good for maneuvering. You will have long wire runs, so get the highest voltage motors you can to minimize resistance losses. I'd think you'd want to use Lithium batteries to minimize the weight impact of your propulsion system. If it can weigh less than the old engine and fuel, then your sailing performance won't be affected. But I don't know if that's realistic.

Please keep us updated.

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Posted by: cpcanoesailor@yahoo.ca
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Re: [Electric Boats] bow thruster

 

2.
yes, usually.

36 lbs x == 0.4 kgf == 16 kgf.

It means about 16 kg push force.

A strong person can push/pull == 50 kgf or so standing.

A much bigger boat needs less force, in calm weather.

Windy, a strong person cannot stop it. So, it depends.


On 22/05/2016 04:05, 'Bruce Dickson' bdebiz@usa.net [electricboats] wrote:
1.

Several trolling motors were labeled
36 lb's of thrust, what does this mean and how does it relate?
2.

would these two
trolling motors mounted to the transoms of the amma's get me out of the marina
until I can set the sails?

--   -hanermo (cnc designs)  

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Posted by: Hannu Venermo <gcode.fi@gmail.com>
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[Electric Boats] Re: Newport 28 conversion

 

Cal,

Re "not mess around with all that sailboat racing stuff" and other comments.

There are always other choices. It depends what you want. Maybe you are happy with a fixed prop and the turning noise of an electric motor and drive train when sailing compared to the pure silence of sailing. Personally, if I could (prop in small aperture), I'd fit a two blade folder or 3 feathering for that very reason - and gain a little speed to boot compared to freewheeling a fixed prop or using in regen mode which as we know is negligible on boats around 21ft LWL.

Also back to direct drive. It is to my mind the cheapest, lightest and simplest system for a sail auxiliary in sail boats up to around 8,000lb loaded displacement/21 ft LWL and subject to motor choice will give around 85% of hull speed and a cruise speed in the peak efficiency area of motor operation, subject to prop choice/motor Kt/Kv matching. There is nothing wrong whatsoever with brushed DC and often they beat the brushless systems I see on this list in terms of natural cooling, weight and Kt. I use a bio ethanol stove on board as I would not have a gas (propane) cooker on board, even if I were not using a brushed motor. Others on this list use brushed DC motors similar to mine and 3,000 hours out of a set of brushes seems to me not to be an issue when they are so easily changed.

LiFePO4 for me rocks (25.6V nominal) and certainly for my 24V direct drive system, is safer than lead acid tech, lighter, with a more stable discharge voltage profile, high C rate, fast charging, with longevity and a likely cost per nm the same or less than AGM over time subject to number of times cycled, cycle depth and discharge rates, not to mention greater usable energy and an Ah sizing that can replace lead acid batteries of half their Ah rating. Hence when looking at cost per watt hour stored, one cannot compare Ah for Ah.

Horses for courses...

John

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Sunday, May 22, 2016

Re: [Electric Boats] Cost for Lithium vs Lead Acid

 

I purchased a used chevy Volt pack.
Pack kWh: 16.5 for about $1800.00

It is designed with 48 and 24 volt modules.
The modules are liquid cooled.

I was impressed with voltage of each cell when I tested the pack when I purchased it.
All cells were within .01 volts of each other.

I plan on testing a 48 volt module on my electric scooter and see how well things stay balanced without a BMS.
48 volt at 45Ah test module, the scooters original lead acid was 12 Ah.
I think the cells will not be pushed to hard and hope for good results.

If so, I plan on using a similiar design on my boat.
My boat is a modified 16ft hobbie cat.

Mark
--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 5/17/16, 'Myles Twete' matwete@comcast.net [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Electric Boats] Cost for Lithium vs Lead Acid
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Received: Tuesday, May 17, 2016, 6:43 PM


 









I'd like to hear
an updated discussion of the cost differences between Lead
Acid vs Lithium.It seems the last
time I purchased flooded 6v batteries, they cost me about
$120 for 1.2kwh of rated energy storage---i.e. about
10c/kwh.Lithium costs are
high if you buy new.  But some good and even excellent
quality Lithium cells, modules and packs can be picked up on
the surplus market these days at tremendously reduced
costs.About 2 ½ years ago
I bought my first 2 modules (3kwh, 42v nom (48 – 31v)
each) for about $1200 each --- i.e. 40c/kwh ( or 4x PbA
cost)Then 2 years ago I
bought an additional 8 modules (24kwh pack) for $6k --- i.e.
25c/kwh (or 2.5x PbA cost)Now, these same
packs can be had for as little as $4.2k --- i.e. about
18c/kwh (less than 2x PbA cost!)And this is for
probably the best lithium batteries out there---U.S. made
Enerdel modules.And that pack
includes connectors, some contactors, some cabling and even
Enerdel RLEC's (CAN-bus BMS boards for each
half-module)…  Land-based EV folks
traditionally justify going to lithium based on "cycle
life".  But that doesn't have a lot of value for us
E-mariners.Probably even the
most active E-boater with a significant size pack will still
only see 100 or less charge cycles annually.Even PbA batteries
can last several years or more.We hear 1000- or
2000- or even 3000-cycles (e.g. Enerdel ) for lithium.  For
a daily driver, that's a good thing.  For my boat?  At
less than 30 charge cycles per year, it'll take me over
100 years to reach the 3000-cycle life of these cells on my
boat!  Still, while the
huge count of cycle life for lithium is unrealizable for
most of us, the fact that a well treated lithium pack will
essentially outlive your boat is useful to know.  How many
times would you have to replace PbA batteries if you used
those during the life of the boat?  Twice?  Three times? 
Some of you out there are on your 2nd or
3rd pack already.  Given that, it's easily
arguable that a Lithium pack that costs just 2x the PbA
equivalent is a bargain.  And as mentioned above, they
aren't just "in the future"---you can get these
now.  If any of you are in
the Pacific NW and would be interested in the batteries I
mentioned, send me a note offline and I'll point you in
the right direction---they're stored in Portland,
Oregon.  NOTE: I have no interest whatsoever in these, just
know that there are some available.  Anyway, I'm sure
there are lots of other options out there also.  In case this
helps-  -Myles Twete,
Portland      










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Posted by: Mark F <mark.internet@yahoo.ca>
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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Another new guy

 

John,

Lithium are neither 6v or 12v nominal but commonly 3.2v nominal per cell and thus 4 cells would be a typical 12v battery.  For example I use 16 3.2v cells to produce my 48volt nominal to run my Ray Electric outboards.  Hope that helps.  If your not up to date with battery technology then perhaps going with some agm batteries in 12v configuration would be best.  Otherwise there is a small learning curve to learning about lithium.  Enjoy.

Arden


From: "johnwiggert@gmail.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2016 4:46 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Another new guy

 
Lets see if this works so I can reply to all.

First thanks for the welcome and comments.

Regarding the Loon, they seem to nice boats but are a little bigger and a lot more expensive than I am interested in. Boats like that are really problematic from a wheelchair point of view. Generally the gates are small and the nice luxurious furniture makes moving around almost impossible and driving definitely impossible. Older pontoons tend to be the best which is why I am looking at a pontoon kit. I can put the furniture where I want. I can put a removable fishing chair behind the console so others can drive and put a another socket where the chair can go when I am driving etc.

The lake I am talking about is Claytor Lake in Pulaski County VA. 4500 acres. I am calling it small.

It does sound like lithium batteries are the way to go. I guess you get what you pay for and the price point of the 48 volt Ray electric is about right. I have some weight capacity numbers from the kit manufacturer and am going to start adding components up.

The next question, The Ray Electric is set up like a golf cart, why do these things use 6 volt lead acid batteries but 12 volt lithium? Is there a reason or just that nobody makes 6volt lithium?

Thanks,
John

 


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Posted by: Arden Wiebe <albert682@yahoo.com>
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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: bow thruster

 

I would agree that you probably need at lest 55lb thrust motors.  
Maneuvering would be neat - but don't expect any speed out of these things.
Someone on the list group pointed out a long time ago that with the pitch of most trolling motors props, you can't possibly go over about 3mph.  They're designed for thrust, not speed.  Assuming you don't have a lot of wind and current, they can get you somewhere - eventually, but you would need to be VERY patient.

John



From: king_of_neworleans <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2016 4:28 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: bow thruster

 
I seem to recall someone saying that 55lb thrust is approximately equal to 1hp, though it really is an apples/oranges kinda thing. I imagine you would only be satisfied with something over 100lb thrust. Here is a link for you. BGFTRST: Trolling Motor Buyer's Guide : Cabela's. I have always liked buying from Cabela's, BTW. Anyway, yeah that could work nicely I think. Consider getting 36v motors, running your main motor at 48v and using an external motor controller fed from the main bank for each trolling motor, and never exceed rated current.

You could even go with more than 2 trolling motors. With 2 on the stern and 2 on the bow of each ama, you could do some pretty slick maneuvering.
 


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