Tuesday, January 31, 2012

[Electric Boats] Re: House boat conversion

 

Hi Geoff,
Your EY map data is a little off. I'm the Dealer in Boynton Beach who sold the twin motors, but they are neither installed yet nor in the state of Florida. The customer is a member of this board and he can pipe up if he so desires, but there is no speed/watts data on the project yet.
Todd
www.epowermarine.com

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "runneribe42" <geoffgamsby@...> wrote:
>
> Greetings David,
>
> I work with electric Yacht and we have "electrified" a 41' houseboat in Florida. We would be glad to give you some more info and help you figure out the best set-up for your boat.
>
> Here is a map of your customers http://eyacht.straightturn.net/node/8 you can search the webpage and find the info on the houseboat
>
> geoff
> www.straightturn.net/sailing
>
> --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dchial@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, I`m David a long time reader first time w/a
> > request for information. I have A38 ft X 12 ft
> > River Queen house boat, steel hull around 14,000
> > lbs. lookin` to electrify it. I tried emailing
> > elco and a few others and they didn`t seem to want
> > help. I do have a basic Idea what has to be done,
> > does anyone know of a co. that helps
> > the little guy?? David
> >
>

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Monday, January 30, 2012

[Electric Boats] Re: House boat conversion

 

Interesting post Eric, and a good practical illustration of what's possible if conditions are benign and you aren't in a hurry!

Take a look at some pictures of the River Queen 38 on a Google image search:

http://www.google.com/search?q=river+queen+38+houseboat&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=jA1&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&prmd=imvns&source=lnms&tbm=isch&ei=FB8nT8GXHPPMiQLLqZitAQ&sa=X&oi=mode_link&ct=mode&cd=2&ved=0CCUQ_AUoAQ&biw=1440&bih=737

It doesn't look like the typical "two story box on a barge" houseboat. The windage is certainly less than many houseboats I've seen, and there is a lot of room on that upper deck for solar panels. It might actually make a pretty good electric conversion depending on intended usage and budget. Might be worth some more study. I'd like to see some numbers on that big one in Florida too. I'll bet he has one helluva battery bank!

Jim

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[Electric Boats] Re: House boat conversion

 

Hi Geoff,

I found the entry for the 41' houseboat in Boynton Beach. With two ibl360 motors, if they are running 48V systems, then they've got 34kW of drive power on tap (assuming 360A x 48V). With 34kW of drive in a 13 ton boat, they've got more than enough for displacement mode, I would be interested to hear if they can get past the bow wave into any sort of planing or semi-planing mode.

Since people show up asking if converting a houseboat to electric is feasible, it would be great if you could post any sort of watts to knots or top speed performance for this boat. With load to speed numbers, figuring the range is pretty simple for various size battery packs.

Referring to other posts, it takes very little power to move large floating objects at slow speed. Old school fitness guru, Jack LaLanne used to tow various things on his birthdays to show that he was still in shape. Here's a few of those events:

1957 (age 43): swam the Golden Gate channel while towing a 2,500-pound (1,100 kg; 180 st) cabin cruiser. The swift ocean currents turned this one-mile (1.6 km) swim into a swimming distance of 6.5 miles (10.5 km)

1974 (age 60): For the second time, he swam from Alcatraz Island to Fisherman's Wharf. Again, he was handcuffed, but this time he was also shackled and towed a 1,000-pound (450 kg; 71 st) boat. At least that's according to his website. However, according to an account of this event published the day after it occurred in the Los Angeles Times, written by Philip Hager, a Times staff writer, LaLanne was neither handcuffed nor shackled if each of those terms has the unconventional meaning of "tightly binding the wrists or ankles together with a pair of metal fasteners" although that's not how handcuffs or shackles work. Hager says that LaLanne "had his hands and feet bound with cords that allowed minimal freedom". But "minimal" clearly did not mean "no" freedom, since elsewhere in the article Hager describes LaLanne's method of propulsion through the water as "half-breast-stroke, half-dog paddle" which is how you swim with your hands tied.

1976 (age 62): To commemorate the "Spirit of '76", United States Bicentennial, he swam one mile (1.6 km) in Long Beach Harbor. He was handcuffed and shackled, and he towed 13 boats (representing the 13 original colonies) containing 76 people.

1979 (age 65): towed 65 boats in Lake Ashinoko, near Tokyo, Japan. He was handcuffed and shackled, and the boats were filled with 6,500 pounds (2,900 kg; 460 st) of Louisiana Pacific wood pulp.

1980 (age 66): towed 10 boats in North Miami, Florida. The boats carried 77 people, and he towed them for over one mile (1.6 km) in less than one hour.

1984 (age 70): handcuffed, shackled, and fighting strong winds and currents, towed 70 rowboats, one with several guests, from the Queen's Way Bridge in the Long Beach Harbor to the Queen Mary, 1 mile.

Obviously, his maximum power output in this configuration is pretty low. But for each of these stunts, while he wasn't fast, he did have the endurance to complete the swim (and a chase crew in case he got too tired).

This proves that small motors can move large boats in calm conditions, but for basic marine safety, we should have enough power to manueuver in adverse (not extreme) conditions. That's where this group's guideline of 1kW of power for each ton of displacement comes from. This will typically provide 90-95% of hull speed in calm conditions and seems to give reasonable power in less than ideal conditions. On the other hand, houseboats have considerable windage for their displacement and may need more power to handle crosswinds safely. So I'm really interested in hearing how the Boynton Beach houseboat handles in the real world now that it is electric.

Fair winds,
Eric
Marina del Rey, CA

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "runneribe42" <geoffgamsby@...> wrote:
>
> Greetings David,
>
> I work with electric Yacht and we have "electrified" a 41' houseboat in Florida. We would be glad to give you some more info and help you figure out the best set-up for your boat.
>
> Here is a map of your customers http://eyacht.straightturn.net/node/8 you can search the webpage and find the info on the houseboat
>
> geoff
> www.straightturn.net/sailing
>

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[Electric Boats] Re: House boat conversion

 

Greetings David,

I work with electric Yacht and we have "electrified" a 41' houseboat in Florida. We would be glad to give you some more info and help you figure out the best set-up for your boat.

Here is a map of your customers http://eyacht.straightturn.net/node/8 you can search the webpage and find the info on the houseboat

geoff
www.straightturn.net/sailing

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dchial@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, I`m David a long time reader first time w/a
> request for information. I have A38 ft X 12 ft
> River Queen house boat, steel hull around 14,000
> lbs. lookin` to electrify it. I tried emailing
> elco and a few others and they didn`t seem to want
> help. I do have a basic Idea what has to be done,
> does anyone know of a co. that helps
> the little guy?? David
>

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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: House boat conversion

 

excellent idea and post Bill, to try towing with 10hp as a test. the only thing I'd call iffy about it is need of a low pitch "grunt prop" on it to actually do a good test with.
my 10hp long shaft honda 4 stroke was built and propped to be a big sailboat pusher,
might be closer to appropriate for testing like that. (maybe have a sailboat tow ya?)
 
I might have some sympathy for the 4hp engine that might not have had a chance to spin up to produce a little power.. but hey I wasnt there to see it happening either, and can only suspect it being the situation with the little engine struggling to even get to 3k rpm..
theres some with 4-5 pitch high thrust props too of course, are hard to drag down!
 
I'm pretty impressed with a 30lb trolling motor moving your houseboat at 1mph,
thats a heck of a load! I dont know if it'd be helpful or not, but over at "hannu's boatyard" site he has a whole bunch of his little rowboats graphed out "speed vs resistance". its different for bigger heavier longer wider etc, but maybe still relevant too for low speed ballpark calculations. the other basic ballpark calculator I like a lot is:
sure its intended for planing speedboats, but its fairly decent about things like "900lbs with 0.35hp and a hull constant of 225 (default and maybe good rep of displacement)..
equals ______ potential mph speed". knocking about 15-20% off, is pretty fair.
 
next curiosity.. would a parabolic dish mirror heating a pressure vessel boiler to a small steam engine be maybe more productive go-go than photovoltaic to electric motor power?
theres a few youtube video's exploring that, solar steam boiler to engine to generator, the guy is making some pretty decent Kw from it! sunshine dependant of course, but solar boiler to steam engine would run for free on windless days when sailboats cant..
theres a video of a kid who coated a TV dish with small bits of mirror, it was igniting everything he held in its sweet spot within seconds.

--- On Mon, 1/30/12, Steamboat Willie <stmbtwle@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Steamboat Willie <stmbtwle@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: House boat conversion
To: "electricboats@yahoogroups.com" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Date: Monday, January 30, 2012, 1:42 PM

 
I can see why a lot of them don't want to help; a houseboat is a big boxy contraption (I have one about your size) and it's going to take a LOT of power to move it very fast and a lot of BATTERY to go very far.   Just for a lark one day I tried to push mine with a 30# electric trolling motor; I got ONE mph average going both ways in a dead calm, so yes it's possible.   For comparison on the same day I tried a 4 hp gas outboard; I got TWO mph under the same conditions.    

For starters I'd borrow a dinghy with a gas outboard (10 hp or so)  and see just how fast you can push that houseboat.   That will at least give you an idea of how much horsepower is needed to go X mph.   It's a rough guess but it's a start.  Some one of the experts on here can probably take that number and give you an estimate of how many KW of motor it'll take.  Then you have to figure how far you want to go and how much battery power it'll take to get there.   Then IF you're still interested you can start comparing different types of drives.

Every time I buy diesel I dream how nice it would be to install an electric drive and push my boat with solar power, but every time I do the math it gets pretty discouraging.  

Bill

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[Electric Boats] Re: House boat conversion

 

I can see why a lot of them don't want to help; a houseboat is a big boxy contraption (I have one about your size) and it's going to take a LOT of power to move it very fast and a lot of BATTERY to go very far.   Just for a lark one day I tried to push mine with a 30# electric trolling motor; I got ONE mph average going both ways in a dead calm, so yes it's possible.   For comparison on the same day I tried a 4 hp gas outboard; I got TWO mph under the same conditions.    

For starters I'd borrow a dinghy with a gas outboard (10 hp or so)  and see just how fast you can push that houseboat.   That will at least give you an idea of how much horsepower is needed to go X mph.   It's a rough guess but it's a start.  Some one of the experts on here can probably take that number and give you an estimate of how many KW of motor it'll take.  Then you have to figure how far you want to go and how much battery power it'll take to get there.   Then IF you're still interested you can start comparing different types of drives.

Every time I buy diesel I dream how nice it would be to install an electric drive and push my boat with solar power, but every time I do the math it gets pretty discouraging.  

Bill

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[Electric Boats] Re: House boat conversion

 

David,
I googled that boat. Looks like a cool design. What does it currently have for power, and what are your speed and range requirements? Switching to electric works well for many sailboats and efficient displacement hulls with modest range requirements. There are systems on the market that would move your hull at reasonable displacement speeds, but battery range is always a limitation. You might be a good candidate for a hybrid system, using a moderate size diesel genset to provide house power and charge your propulsion batteries.
Jim

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "David" <dchial@...> wrote:
>
> Hi, I`m David a long time reader first time w/a
> request for information. I have A38 ft X 12 ft
> River Queen house boat, steel hull around 14,000
> lbs. lookin` to electrify it. I tried emailing
> elco and a few others and they didn`t seem to want
> help. I do have a basic Idea what has to be done,
> does anyone know of a co. that helps
> the little guy?? David
>

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[Electric Boats] anyone have any old propulsion device willing to donate?

 

I own a shanty boat that the plan was to push with my eight foot skiff around using a 10 H P motor. Short story, motor died. I tried using two 30lbs thrust Minn kota's, alas not enough to even move skiff upstream. Working with non existent budget. Thought perhaps someone might have old engine or motor siting around?

Thanks
Http://shantyboat.biz (she is 16 feet long)....

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Re: [Electric Boats] Looking at the options

 

Manyn thanks, I will make contact.

I fear that the tide around here may be the factor against such a conversion.

Michael

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, James Sizemore <james@...> wrote:
>
> You have a local electric boat club you should join, they have a new letter that is fantastic resource.
>
> http://www.electric-boats.org.uk/
>
>
>
> On Jan 27, 2012, at 4:18 AM, "Michael" <barrowbyuk@...> wrote:
>
> > Apologies for another 'I'm thinking about converting...' post.
> >
> > I have what is known as a Sussex Beach boat, a short, broad, shallow, fairly heavy open boat of around 16ft, currently powered by a 15hp air cooled diesel which is very noisy. I need to change either to a newer diesel or be brave and go electric.
> >
> > The boat lives in Chichester Marina (UK). Re-charging would be easy. I rarely go out for more than 6 hours. Most of this is spent in the harbour where the speed limit is 8 knots (can't reach that anyway). Tidal streams and wind can be quite strong ( tide 5-6 knots at times).
> >
> > The boat has quite a lot of ballast in it so changing this for a good sized array of batteries would not be a problem. There is plenty of room. Prop is three bladed, turning at 1500 rpm. Not sure of size or pitch. I could even have room to accomodate some sort of generator set as a 'get you home' if needed.
> >
> > I have two questions to start with:
> >
> > Is electric power viable for such an application bearing in mind the need to push against the tide?
> >
> > Is there anyone around my area who has done such a conversion?
> >
> > Many thanks in advance
> >
> > Michael
> > (Bobolink)
> >
> >
>

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Sunday, January 29, 2012

Re: [Electric Boats] Looking at the options

 

You have a local electric boat club you should join, they have a new letter that is fantastic resource. 



On Jan 27, 2012, at 4:18 AM, "Michael" <barrowbyuk@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

 

Apologies for another 'I'm thinking about converting...' post.

I have what is known as a Sussex Beach boat, a short, broad, shallow, fairly heavy open boat of around 16ft, currently powered by a 15hp air cooled diesel which is very noisy. I need to change either to a newer diesel or be brave and go electric.

The boat lives in Chichester Marina (UK). Re-charging would be easy. I rarely go out for more than 6 hours. Most of this is spent in the harbour where the speed limit is 8 knots (can't reach that anyway). Tidal streams and wind can be quite strong ( tide 5-6 knots at times).

The boat has quite a lot of ballast in it so changing this for a good sized array of batteries would not be a problem. There is plenty of room. Prop is three bladed, turning at 1500 rpm. Not sure of size or pitch. I could even have room to accomodate some sort of generator set as a 'get you home' if needed.

I have two questions to start with:

Is electric power viable for such an application bearing in mind the need to push against the tide?

Is there anyone around my area who has done such a conversion?

Many thanks in advance

Michael
(Bobolink)

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Re: [Electric Boats] House boat conversion

 

Dual prop or single?



On Jan 26, 2012, at 9:30 AM, "David" <dchial@hotmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi, I`m David a long time reader first time w/a
request for information. I have A38 ft X 12 ft
River Queen house boat, steel hull around 14,000
lbs. lookin` to electrify it. I tried emailing
elco and a few others and they didn`t seem to want
help. I do have a basic Idea what has to be done,
does anyone know of a co. that helps
the little guy?? David

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Saturday, January 28, 2012

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Marine Li-Po Batteries 51.8Vdc 100-200 Ah

 

Lead acid vs lipo

A lipo pack of similar capacity a comparable discharge levels will have far less weight, significantly more voltage and capacity under load. It uses approx same volume but at high power delivers more run time and a more responsive motor. As a bonus they take less energy to recharge. A difference is lipo require different, new, care procedures which must be adhered to.

Weight and volume

Lipo has a far higher energy per kg which means it makes a much lighter power pack.

Comparing Panasonic's excellent LC-XC1238AP and the EST100 50 25

Panasonic LC = 16kg 12V*38Ah = 456Wh or 1kwh/32kg of mass using to
EST100 = 45kg 52V*100Ah = 4200Wh or 1kwh/11kg of mass

Packs of similar capacity and voltage weigh:

Panasonic 48V x 114Ah = 192kg
EPS100 50V x 100Ah = 45kg i.e. ¼ the mass

Each pack is similar in volume at 68.25 litres for the Panasonic and 65.5 litres for the EPS100.

Rated vs available power

Like all lead acids deep cycle run better when used to 50% discharge level. Lipo can run to 90% discharge at lower rates for virtually their entire service life.

The Panasonic pack is limited to a continuous discharge of about 1C or 5.5kw and peaks of about 14.5kw e.g. a starting peak of ICE .

The EST100 give the normal discharge rate as 1C/100amps/5.3Kw with peaks of 8C i.e. 800amps/33.6Kw i.e. 1 sec spikes.

The standard discharge rates / depth of discharge for a long lived lead acid (50%) and lipo (80-90%) give striking results also.

Panasonic discharging at 1C=114 amps is empty at 38.4v after 35 minutes. However, 50% discharge means a practical service life and at 114 amps gives 17 minutes run time. During discharge output start at 5500w and end at 4400w

Assuming the EST 100 can give only 80% of its rated capacity before cut off; at 114 amps the EST will be empty at 42v after approx 42 minutes. During discharge output start at 6300w and end at 4800w.

More practical still supposing a boat draws 500 watts.

At 50.4v/9.92 amps discharge the Panasonic has a capacity for 689 minutes and at half discharge 345 minutes or 5hr 44min;

At low power the EST100 voltage is up too and at 51.8v/9.65 amps it now has 90% of its rated capacity available, enough for 559 minutes or 9hr 20 minutes.

At high discharge rates the lipo runs up to 2.5 times longer at an average of 10% more power; at low power it runs up to 62% longer.

These figures suggest a lipo pack with 60% of the capacity of a lead acid pack could match its run time performance in all but long term high rate output; at 15% of the mass and .

Efficiency and Maintenance

Finally lead acid uses more energy to reach an equivalent charge. Pb uses about 25% more energy than rated capacity to charge. Lipos use a couple of percent more. So lead acid uses 23% more energy than the same capacity lipo. So the Pana pack takes 6840wh to charge and the ETS about 6100wh.

The above figures suggest for the same voltage a lipo pack 60% of the capacity of a lead acid, in this case 70Ah, would safety deliver the performance of a 114Ah lead acid at a mere 15% of the mass. 60% of the charge costs and 40% less space. Sounds better the smaller the boat.

Add to this the lipos mentioned come with a charging system which manages the cells full time so balance between cells does not become an issue and a warning system if it does. Lead acids do not have this safety / maintenance feature.

An then...lipos will not tolerate screw ups in charging. Go over 4.25v and the battery dies; discharge below 2.7v per cell and it dies; leave them fully charged for 3 months and they will suffer at least 10% permanent power and capacity loss; leave them in hot storage and they will age faster losing up to 10% capacity per year.

Or you can keep the cool and let the battery management do its job. Also charge to only 95% of capacity and you will markedly extend the life of the pack and avoid even the remotest over charging risks.

Andrew Gilchrist
fastelectrics.com

----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Heintz [mailto:bheintz@wans.net]
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, 28 Jan 2012 07:47:51 -0500
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Marine Li-Po Batteries 51.8Vdc 100-200 Ah

On Jan 26, 2012, at 09:44, martin demers wrote:
> I would like to know what is the advantage with Li -po batteries in
> boats

A very good question Martin. [and I'm not sure I am qualified to
answer ;)]

I chose AGM (lead acid) batteries for my boat for pragmatic reasons:

I'm not a battery expert, and where I hope to travel, I don't suppose
I will find a whole lot. AGM's were a smaller initial investment, it
is easier to charge, and [I think] I understand the chemistry of it
enough to charge them properly and keep them sufficiently maintained.
If I travel and need a replacement, I can quickly get a replacement.
Until my wallet starts to get too heavy I will probably stick with
lead acid.

On oversimplified comparison . . .

Lead Acid: (includes flooded, SLA, VRLA, AGM, and GEL)

Advantages: cheaper, proven technology, easy to replace, chargers are
readily available, a large bank of batteries can be charged all in
series, no memory, high over-charge tolerance
Limitations: heavy (30-50 wh/kg), cannot be left in a low-discharged
condition, a deep cell battery has perhaps 300 cycles, high internal
resistance, takes a while to charge (8-16 hrs), contains Lead

Li-Polymer: (LiCoO2, LiMn2O4, LiFePO4, LiNiMnCoO2, LiNiCoAlO2, and
Li4Ti5O12 to name a few see Notes below)

Advantages: lighter (100-130 wh/kg), can be made environmentally
friendly (no Pb, Cd, or Hg), 1,000+ cycles, no memory, lowest internal
resistance of rechargeable batteries, faster charge (2-4 hrs)
Limitations: expensive, charging properly is critical, chargers are
expensive, (each cell needs to be monitored and charged individually
when charging), low over-charge tolerance, hard to find a dealer that
will sell you one suitable for a DIY-EV boat (24-48vdc boats are
either too big or too small)

In the Title Post, the battery chemistry refers to Lithium Nickel
Manganese Cobalt LiNiMnCoO2 (NMC)

Notes on Lithium Ion (Li-ion) and and Lithium Polymer (Li-po)?:

. Scientists and the media give Li-ion batteries unique names but
unless you are a scientist, this might cause confusion.

. The polymer hype of the early 2000s is still going strong, however
most users cannot distinguish between a regular Li-ion and one with
polymer architecture.

. All Li-ion polymer cells today incorporate a micro porous separator
with moisture. The correct term is "Lithium-ion Polymer" (Li-ion
polymer or Li-polymer for short.)

. Li-polymer can be build on many systems, such as Li-cobalt, NMC, Li-
phosphate and Li-manganese.

. As far the consumer is concerned, the lithium polymer is essentially
the sam as the lithium ion battery.

? - Batteries in a Portable World - Isidor Bunchmann - pp. 59-60.
See also "Battery Types" on www.BatteryUniversity.com, an up-to-date
reference for comparing different battery chemistries.

Types of Li-ion batteries: Table 2-10?

Chemical name
Material
Abbreviation
Short form
Notes
Lithium Cobalt Oxide1
Also Lithium Cobalate or lithium-ion-cobalt)
LiCoO2
(60% Co)
LCO
Li-cobalt

High capacity; for cell phone laptop, camera
Lithium
Manganese Oxide1
Also Lithium Manganate
or lithium-ion-manganese
LiMn2O4
LMO
Li-manganese, or spinel

Most safe; lower capacity than Li-cobalt but high specific power and
long life.
Power tools,
e-bikes, EV, medical, hobbyist.
Lithium
Iron Phosphate1
LiFePO4
LFP
Li-phosphate
Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt Oxide1,also lithium-manganese-cobalt-
oxide
LiNiMnCoO2
(10-20% Co)
NMC
NMC

Lithium Nickel Cobalt Aluminum Oxide1
LiNiCoAlO2
9% Co)
NCA
NCA
Gaining importance
in electric powertrain and grid storage
Lithium Titanate2
Li4Ti5O12
LTO
Li-titanate
Table 1: Reference names for Li-ion batteries. We will use the short
form when appropriate.
1 Cathode material 2 Anode material

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[Electric Boats] Catamaran conversion

 

BT,
Not many replies; so I'll tell you about my ongoing project.
I'm buiding a Farrier F-41 cat. I decided some time ago to go
electric, and have picked up so much info. from the forum - especially
from Eric (many, many thanks Eric for your input - I'm sure others
really appreciate that)
I have 2 Sillette-Sonic saildrives, and should soon receive 2 180ibl
motors w/belt reduction from Scott at Electric Yacht, who has been
very helpful.
I'm going with 15" fixed props (for re-gen.) I've had to mount the
drives at an angle inboard of each hull, as I've only built 5" mini
keels, and I want to be able to beach the boat for bottom
cleaning/service etc. I didn't want to mount on centreline, because it
would have meant them being mounted just in front of rudders (hull
shape) So they are exposed to some extent to logs, etc. I live in
B.C., where the logging industry is a little lax about cleaning up
their 'escapees'.
I'm planning to use LiFePo4 batts., as they are really the only choice
(at the moment) for lightweight cats. Scott has recommended 230 Ahr.
banks for traction.
I hopefully will be sailing south to the warm areas of the Pacific
some time next year when I'm finished building; so I will also have a
small gas generator for emergency power for the motors. Down the line
I'll add a few solar panels to add to charging for house & traction
banks.
As you already have drive lines in the boat; you should be able to
adapt motors to your existing drives; but you may have to re-prop.
If I can help with any more info., let me know.
Graham

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RE: [Electric Boats] Re: Marine Li-Po Batteries 51.8Vdc 100-200 Ah

 

Thanks Ned and everybody for all the info,
 
My sailboat is a 37ft steel classic , weighting around 18,000 lbs. So, until a certain point, battery weight is not a major factor. since it replaces a 350 lbs diesel engine with gearbox, unless I also install a diesel generator to run a longer time on the electric motor.
 
Martin.
 

To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
From: nedfarinholt@comcast.net
Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2012 11:29:03 -0500
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Marine Li-Po Batteries 51.8Vdc 100-200 Ah

 
Martin,
Let me give a slight addition to the comments on Lithium batteries. I electrified a boat with LiFePO4 batteries for one reason: high energy density. My 160 Ah 48v nominal bank weighs 200 lbs. With my Torqeedo 4R, I got my 15' aluminum utility up on a plane for 25+ miles. You do have to exercise some care in charging and monitoring but it is not very difficult or expensive. A 25 amp 48v 3-stage charger designed for Li costs about $500. A mini-bms battery management system is about $200. You can spend much more but these are completely adequate for marine applications. I had no difficulty in locating a source for the batteries. There is a large market created by the diy electric car people. 
However, if you are converting a sail boat or other application where weight is not an issue or even may be an advantage then definitely go with the AGMs. They are much cheaper initially.
If you need more help on LiFePO4s let me know.
Ned

On Jan 28, 2012, at 7:47 AM, Bill Heintz wrote:

 

On Jan 26, 2012, at 09:44, martin demers wrote:
I would like to know what is the advantage with Li -po batteries in boats

A very good question Martin. [and I'm not sure I am qualified to answer ;)]


I chose AGM (lead acid) batteries for my boat for pragmatic reasons:

I'm not a battery expert, and where I hope to travel, I don't suppose I will find a whole lot.  AGM's were a smaller initial investment, it is easier to charge, and [I think] I understand the chemistry of it enough to charge them properly and keep them sufficiently maintained.  If I travel and need a replacement, I can quickly get a replacement. Until my wallet starts to get too heavy I will probably stick with lead acid.


On oversimplified comparison . . .

Lead Acid: (includes flooded, SLA, VRLA, AGM, and GEL)

Advantages:  cheaper, proven technology, easy to replace, chargers are readily available, a large bank of batteries can be charged all in series, no memory, high over-charge tolerance
Limitations:  heavy (30-50 wh/kg), cannot be left in a low-discharged condition, a deep cell battery has perhaps 300 cycles, high internal resistance, takes a while to charge (8-16 hrs), contains Lead

Li-Polymer: (LiCoO2LiMn2O4LiFePO4LiNiMnCoO2LiNiCoAlO2, and Li4Ti5O12 to name a few see Notes below)

Advantages:  lighter (100-130 wh/kg), can be made environmentally friendly (no Pb, Cd, or Hg), 1,000+ cycles, no memory, lowest internal resistance of rechargeable batteries, faster charge (2-4 hrs)
Limitations:  expensive, charging properly is critical, chargers are expensive,  (each cell needs to be monitored and charged individually when  charging), low over-charge tolerance, hard to find a dealer that will sell you one suitable for a DIY-EV boat (24-48vdc boats are either too big or too small)




In the Title Post, the battery chemistry refers to Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt  LiNiMnCoO(NMC)


Notes on Lithium Ion (Li-ion) and and Lithium Polymer (Li-po)†:

• Scientists and the media give Li-ion batteries unique names but unless you are a scientist, this might cause confusion.

• The polymer hype of the early 2000s is still going strong, however most users cannot distinguish between a regular Li-ion and one with polymer architecture.

•  All Li-ion polymer cells today incorporate a micro porous separator with moisture. The correct term is "Lithium-ion Polymer" (Li-ion polymer or Li-polymer for short.)

• Li-polymer can be build on many systems, such as Li-cobalt, NMC, Li-phosphate and Li-manganese.

• As far the consumer is concerned, the lithium polymer is essentially the sam as the lithium ion battery.


† - Batteries in a Portable World - Isidor Bunchmann - pp. 59-60.   See also "Battery Types" on www.BatteryUniversity.com, an up-to-date reference for comparing different battery chemistries.


Types of Li-ion batteries:  Table 2-10†

Chemical name
Material
Abbreviation
Short form
                  Notes
Lithium Cobalt Oxide1
Also Lithium Cobalate or lithium-ion-cobalt)
LiCoO2
(60% Co)
LCO
Li-cobalt
 
High capacity; for cell phone laptop, camera
Lithium
Manganese Oxide
1
Also Lithium Manganate
or lithium-ion-manganese
LiMn2O4
LMO
Li-manganese, or spinel
 
Most safe; lower capacity than Li-cobalt but high specific power and long life.
Power tools,
e-bikes, EV, medical, hobbyist.
Lithium
Iron Phosphate
1
LiFePO4
LFP
Li-phosphate
Lithium Nickel Manganese Cobalt Oxide1,also lithium-manganese-cobalt-oxide
LiNiMnCoO2
(10–20% Co)
NMC
NMC
 
Lithium Nickel Cobalt Aluminum Oxide1
LiNiCoAlO2
9% Co)
NCA
NCA
Gaining importance
in electric powertrain and grid storage
Lithium Titanate2
Li4Ti5O12
LTO
Li-titanate
Table 1: Reference names for Li-ion batteries. We will use the short form when appropriate.
 Cathode material         Anode material






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