Thursday, July 29, 2021

Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Installation - Throttle Position

I got some photos of the setup I cobbled together to connect the Curtis throttle unit to the Morse cable and to the pedestal lever.  Works pretty well but the feel for the detent on the Curtis is a bit vague.  I may add a more robust detent to the other side of the Curtis.  Not sure.

Also, I had the chance to motor out through some 2-4' chop right into 12-15 kts true wind.  I was maintaining 5-1/2 kts at 3.5 to 5 kW.  There was no question of the power being adequate and there was plenty of reserve.  I should have logged some data for more meaningful numbers.  Next time.   And while there was plenty of power for this it would only hold up for a couple of hours like that.   The diesel would have done it all day of course.  So would the diesel genset I have in mind.  The little Honda type generator would have been able to supplement and extend the range but doing it all day would not be an option especially of you needed to refill the generator with gasoline in that chop.  Might be manageable with propane but that will be a little less power.  Then again, slogging into chop all day is something I would avoid regardless of the capacity to do it.  But if you had to (and sometimes you do?) the inboard diesel would still reign for that I think.   Then the electric drive with inboard diesel genset.   Or you could triple battery capacity.  But I think a genset might be more practical, flexible and maybe cost competitive for a DIY. 



Dan Pfeiffer

Monday, July 26, 2021

Re: [electricboats] ontologies for maritime electronics?

I attach a screenshot.

On Tuesday, 27 July 2021, 09:27:16 GMT+8, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:


Hmm, Maybe that also requires an IEEE login? Apologies!

On Jul 26, 2021, at 18:14, Carsten via groups.io <Carstensemail=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


Still not good.

On Tuesday, 27 July 2021, 08:39:06 GMT+8, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:


Hmm, I must have flubbed the cut and paste.  Here it is:
https://ieee.webex.com/mw3300/mywebex/default.do?nomenu=true&siteurl=ieee&service=6&rnd=0.31937738898469914&main_url=https%3A%2F%2Fieee.webex.com%2Fec3300%2Feventcenter%2Fevent%2FeventAction.do%3FtheAction%3Ddetail%26%26%26EMK%3D4832534b000000059c32161fa4d025e81f1751b19d80cc02a55a9b2c1cca931d59c60f4a01b5d613%26siteurl%3Dieee%26confViewID%3D197774925611710203%26encryptTicket%3DSDJTSwAAAAWYuN7ekbBrtlKc6mQ6oQlybTVFkf-rRLhnrE0cdle2VQ2%26 

On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:32 PM, Carsten via groups.io <Carstensemail=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

The link is wrong, "Event not found".

On Tuesday, 27 July 2021, 08:29:25 GMT+8, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:


By the way. As I was searching I also spotted this upcoming IEEE webinar on Hybrid and Electric Vehicles.  No idea if it will cover maritime or not but possibly of interest to this audience.


On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:11 PM, Ryan Sweet via groups.io <ryan=ryansweet.org@groups.io> wrote:

(Possibly too far off topic? Let me know If you happen to have an interest in this or relevant knowledge, feel free to message me directly (ryan@ryansweet.org) and let's discuss….)

Somewhat related to my questions about the viltron bluetooth connection - I'm working on software for easy remote monitoring and management of the electrical assets in the boats (with an eye to perhaps generalizing to EVs or home energy storage more broadly).  I'd rather not reinvent the wheel. So I started searching for existing ontologies for describing marine electrical assets, and I'm not winning.  Of course at the one end there is CIM, which can describe just about the entire power grid, but doesn't actually seem to have any models for mobile equipment or DC loads. At the other extreme is something like this paper (IEEE login required) which offers a model developed by the Royal Navy to test parameters for a proposed all-electric drive destroyers (who knew?).  I don't find much in between and I feel like I'm not searching effectively because its not my background field.  I'm thinking about extending this DTDL model for energy grids which is a version of the CIM thing and does include some stubs for EVs and EV Charging stations, but nothing marine. I don't have access to the ABYC standards and don't feel like paying $50 each for them, but my understanding is that they have lists of guidance but not a standardized ontology, is that right?


Re: [electricboats] ontologies for maritime electronics?

Hmm, Maybe that also requires an IEEE login? Apologies!

On Jul 26, 2021, at 18:14, Carsten via groups.io <Carstensemail=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:


Still not good.

On Tuesday, 27 July 2021, 08:39:06 GMT+8, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:


Hmm, I must have flubbed the cut and paste.  Here it is:
https://ieee.webex.com/mw3300/mywebex/default.do?nomenu=true&siteurl=ieee&service=6&rnd=0.31937738898469914&main_url=https%3A%2F%2Fieee.webex.com%2Fec3300%2Feventcenter%2Fevent%2FeventAction.do%3FtheAction%3Ddetail%26%26%26EMK%3D4832534b000000059c32161fa4d025e81f1751b19d80cc02a55a9b2c1cca931d59c60f4a01b5d613%26siteurl%3Dieee%26confViewID%3D197774925611710203%26encryptTicket%3DSDJTSwAAAAWYuN7ekbBrtlKc6mQ6oQlybTVFkf-rRLhnrE0cdle2VQ2%26 

On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:32 PM, Carsten via groups.io <Carstensemail=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

The link is wrong, "Event not found".

On Tuesday, 27 July 2021, 08:29:25 GMT+8, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:


By the way. As I was searching I also spotted this upcoming IEEE webinar on Hybrid and Electric Vehicles.  No idea if it will cover maritime or not but possibly of interest to this audience.


On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:11 PM, Ryan Sweet via groups.io <ryan=ryansweet.org@groups.io> wrote:

(Possibly too far off topic? Let me know If you happen to have an interest in this or relevant knowledge, feel free to message me directly (ryan@ryansweet.org) and let's discuss….)

Somewhat related to my questions about the viltron bluetooth connection - I'm working on software for easy remote monitoring and management of the electrical assets in the boats (with an eye to perhaps generalizing to EVs or home energy storage more broadly).  I'd rather not reinvent the wheel. So I started searching for existing ontologies for describing marine electrical assets, and I'm not winning.  Of course at the one end there is CIM, which can describe just about the entire power grid, but doesn't actually seem to have any models for mobile equipment or DC loads. At the other extreme is something like this paper (IEEE login required) which offers a model developed by the Royal Navy to test parameters for a proposed all-electric drive destroyers (who knew?).  I don't find much in between and I feel like I'm not searching effectively because its not my background field.  I'm thinking about extending this DTDL model for energy grids which is a version of the CIM thing and does include some stubs for EVs and EV Charging stations, but nothing marine. I don't have access to the ABYC standards and don't feel like paying $50 each for them, but my understanding is that they have lists of guidance but not a standardized ontology, is that right?


Re: [electricboats] ontologies for maritime electronics?

Still not good.

On Tuesday, 27 July 2021, 08:39:06 GMT+8, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:


Hmm, I must have flubbed the cut and paste.  Here it is:
https://ieee.webex.com/mw3300/mywebex/default.do?nomenu=true&siteurl=ieee&service=6&rnd=0.31937738898469914&main_url=https%3A%2F%2Fieee.webex.com%2Fec3300%2Feventcenter%2Fevent%2FeventAction.do%3FtheAction%3Ddetail%26%26%26EMK%3D4832534b000000059c32161fa4d025e81f1751b19d80cc02a55a9b2c1cca931d59c60f4a01b5d613%26siteurl%3Dieee%26confViewID%3D197774925611710203%26encryptTicket%3DSDJTSwAAAAWYuN7ekbBrtlKc6mQ6oQlybTVFkf-rRLhnrE0cdle2VQ2%26 

On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:32 PM, Carsten via groups.io <Carstensemail=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

The link is wrong, "Event not found".

On Tuesday, 27 July 2021, 08:29:25 GMT+8, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:


By the way. As I was searching I also spotted this upcoming IEEE webinar on Hybrid and Electric Vehicles.  No idea if it will cover maritime or not but possibly of interest to this audience.


On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:11 PM, Ryan Sweet via groups.io <ryan=ryansweet.org@groups.io> wrote:

(Possibly too far off topic? Let me know If you happen to have an interest in this or relevant knowledge, feel free to message me directly (ryan@ryansweet.org) and let's discuss….)

Somewhat related to my questions about the viltron bluetooth connection - I'm working on software for easy remote monitoring and management of the electrical assets in the boats (with an eye to perhaps generalizing to EVs or home energy storage more broadly).  I'd rather not reinvent the wheel. So I started searching for existing ontologies for describing marine electrical assets, and I'm not winning.  Of course at the one end there is CIM, which can describe just about the entire power grid, but doesn't actually seem to have any models for mobile equipment or DC loads. At the other extreme is something like this paper (IEEE login required) which offers a model developed by the Royal Navy to test parameters for a proposed all-electric drive destroyers (who knew?).  I don't find much in between and I feel like I'm not searching effectively because its not my background field.  I'm thinking about extending this DTDL model for energy grids which is a version of the CIM thing and does include some stubs for EVs and EV Charging stations, but nothing marine. I don't have access to the ABYC standards and don't feel like paying $50 each for them, but my understanding is that they have lists of guidance but not a standardized ontology, is that right?


Re: [electricboats] ontologies for maritime electronics?

Hmm, I must have flubbed the cut and paste.  Here it is:
https://ieee.webex.com/mw3300/mywebex/default.do?nomenu=true&siteurl=ieee&service=6&rnd=0.31937738898469914&main_url=https%3A%2F%2Fieee.webex.com%2Fec3300%2Feventcenter%2Fevent%2FeventAction.do%3FtheAction%3Ddetail%26%26%26EMK%3D4832534b000000059c32161fa4d025e81f1751b19d80cc02a55a9b2c1cca931d59c60f4a01b5d613%26siteurl%3Dieee%26confViewID%3D197774925611710203%26encryptTicket%3DSDJTSwAAAAWYuN7ekbBrtlKc6mQ6oQlybTVFkf-rRLhnrE0cdle2VQ2%26 

On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:32 PM, Carsten via groups.io <Carstensemail=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

The link is wrong, "Event not found".

On Tuesday, 27 July 2021, 08:29:25 GMT+8, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:


By the way. As I was searching I also spotted this upcoming IEEE webinar on Hybrid and Electric Vehicles.  No idea if it will cover maritime or not but possibly of interest to this audience.


On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:11 PM, Ryan Sweet via groups.io <ryan=ryansweet.org@groups.io> wrote:

(Possibly too far off topic? Let me know If you happen to have an interest in this or relevant knowledge, feel free to message me directly (ryan@ryansweet.org) and let's discuss….)

Somewhat related to my questions about the viltron bluetooth connection - I'm working on software for easy remote monitoring and management of the electrical assets in the boats (with an eye to perhaps generalizing to EVs or home energy storage more broadly).  I'd rather not reinvent the wheel. So I started searching for existing ontologies for describing marine electrical assets, and I'm not winning.  Of course at the one end there is CIM, which can describe just about the entire power grid, but doesn't actually seem to have any models for mobile equipment or DC loads. At the other extreme is something like this paper (IEEE login required) which offers a model developed by the Royal Navy to test parameters for a proposed all-electric drive destroyers (who knew?).  I don't find much in between and I feel like I'm not searching effectively because its not my background field.  I'm thinking about extending this DTDL model for energy grids which is a version of the CIM thing and does include some stubs for EVs and EV Charging stations, but nothing marine. I don't have access to the ABYC standards and don't feel like paying $50 each for them, but my understanding is that they have lists of guidance but not a standardized ontology, is that right?


Re: [electricboats] ontologies for maritime electronics?

The link is wrong, "Event not found".

On Tuesday, 27 July 2021, 08:29:25 GMT+8, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:


By the way. As I was searching I also spotted this upcoming IEEE webinar on Hybrid and Electric Vehicles.  No idea if it will cover maritime or not but possibly of interest to this audience.


On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:11 PM, Ryan Sweet via groups.io <ryan=ryansweet.org@groups.io> wrote:

(Possibly too far off topic? Let me know If you happen to have an interest in this or relevant knowledge, feel free to message me directly (ryan@ryansweet.org) and let's discuss….)

Somewhat related to my questions about the viltron bluetooth connection - I'm working on software for easy remote monitoring and management of the electrical assets in the boats (with an eye to perhaps generalizing to EVs or home energy storage more broadly).  I'd rather not reinvent the wheel. So I started searching for existing ontologies for describing marine electrical assets, and I'm not winning.  Of course at the one end there is CIM, which can describe just about the entire power grid, but doesn't actually seem to have any models for mobile equipment or DC loads. At the other extreme is something like this paper (IEEE login required) which offers a model developed by the Royal Navy to test parameters for a proposed all-electric drive destroyers (who knew?).  I don't find much in between and I feel like I'm not searching effectively because its not my background field.  I'm thinking about extending this DTDL model for energy grids which is a version of the CIM thing and does include some stubs for EVs and EV Charging stations, but nothing marine. I don't have access to the ABYC standards and don't feel like paying $50 each for them, but my understanding is that they have lists of guidance but not a standardized ontology, is that right?

Re: [electricboats] ontologies for maritime electronics?

By the way. As I was searching I also spotted this upcoming IEEE webinar on Hybrid and Electric Vehicles.  No idea if it will cover maritime or not but possibly of interest to this audience.


On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:11 PM, Ryan Sweet via groups.io <ryan=ryansweet.org@groups.io> wrote:

(Possibly too far off topic? Let me know If you happen to have an interest in this or relevant knowledge, feel free to message me directly (ryan@ryansweet.org) and let's discuss….)

Somewhat related to my questions about the viltron bluetooth connection - I'm working on software for easy remote monitoring and management of the electrical assets in the boats (with an eye to perhaps generalizing to EVs or home energy storage more broadly).  I'd rather not reinvent the wheel. So I started searching for existing ontologies for describing marine electrical assets, and I'm not winning.  Of course at the one end there is CIM, which can describe just about the entire power grid, but doesn't actually seem to have any models for mobile equipment or DC loads. At the other extreme is something like this paper (IEEE login required) which offers a model developed by the Royal Navy to test parameters for a proposed all-electric drive destroyers (who knew?).  I don't find much in between and I feel like I'm not searching effectively because its not my background field.  I'm thinking about extending this DTDL model for energy grids which is a version of the CIM thing and does include some stubs for EVs and EV Charging stations, but nothing marine. I don't have access to the ABYC standards and don't feel like paying $50 each for them, but my understanding is that they have lists of guidance but not a standardized ontology, is that right?

[electricboats] ontologies for maritime electronics?

(Possibly too far off topic? Let me know If you happen to have an interest in this or relevant knowledge, feel free to message me directly (ryan@ryansweet.org) and let's discuss….)

Somewhat related to my questions about the viltron bluetooth connection - I'm working on software for easy remote monitoring and management of the electrical assets in the boats (with an eye to perhaps generalizing to EVs or home energy storage more broadly).  I'd rather not reinvent the wheel. So I started searching for existing ontologies for describing marine electrical assets, and I'm not winning.  Of course at the one end there is CIM, which can describe just about the entire power grid, but doesn't actually seem to have any models for mobile equipment or DC loads. At the other extreme is something like this paper (IEEE login required) which offers a model developed by the Royal Navy to test parameters for a proposed all-electric drive destroyers (who knew?).  I don't find much in between and I feel like I'm not searching effectively because its not my background field.  I'm thinking about extending this DTDL model for energy grids which is a version of the CIM thing and does include some stubs for EVs and EV Charging stations, but nothing marine. I don't have access to the ABYC standards and don't feel like paying $50 each for them, but my understanding is that they have lists of guidance but not a standardized ontology, is that right?

Re: [electricboats] Apple Ant BMS App

SW, 
Thanks we'll try it.
Jerry



Sent from my Sprint Tablet.


-------- Original message --------
From: "sw via groups.io" <v1opps=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Date: 7/26/21 6:04 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: electricboats@groups.io
Subject: Re: [electricboats] Apple Ant BMS App

I used the one with the ant symbol on it maybe try that one upper left
Looks like another  one but maybe a copy?

Just put ant bms in search box on apps


On Monday, July 26, 2021, 02:48:12 PM PDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


Sw,
Yes Bluetooth is on. But then connects and says "waiting for data". I used my Android phone app and it works with that board.
Jerry Barth



Sent from my Sprint Tablet.


-------- Original message --------
From: "sw via groups.io" <v1opps=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Date: 7/26/21 5:38 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: electricboats@groups.io
Subject: Re: [electricboats] Apple Ant BMS App

It seemed to work for me 
Bluetooth on?


On Monday, July 26, 2021, 02:30:43 PM PDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


I use the Android app VBMS for the Ant BMS new version. It works well.  I made a BMS for a friend who has only apple devices. We tried this one:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xiaoxiang-bms/id1375405426
It connects to the board but says only "waiting for data". Any clue how to get it working or a better apple based app?
Thanks,
Jerry Barth



Sent from my Sprint Tablet.

Re: [electricboats] Apple Ant BMS App

I used the one with the ant symbol on it maybe try that one upper left
Looks like another  one but maybe a copy?

Just put ant bms in search box on apps


On Monday, July 26, 2021, 02:48:12 PM PDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


Sw,
Yes Bluetooth is on. But then connects and says "waiting for data". I used my Android phone app and it works with that board.
Jerry Barth



Sent from my Sprint Tablet.


-------- Original message --------
From: "sw via groups.io" <v1opps=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Date: 7/26/21 5:38 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: electricboats@groups.io
Subject: Re: [electricboats] Apple Ant BMS App

It seemed to work for me 
Bluetooth on?


On Monday, July 26, 2021, 02:30:43 PM PDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


I use the Android app VBMS for the Ant BMS new version. It works well.  I made a BMS for a friend who has only apple devices. We tried this one:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xiaoxiang-bms/id1375405426
It connects to the board but says only "waiting for data". Any clue how to get it working or a better apple based app?
Thanks,
Jerry Barth



Sent from my Sprint Tablet.

Re: [electricboats] Apple Ant BMS App

Sw,
Yes Bluetooth is on. But then connects and says "waiting for data". I used my Android phone app and it works with that board.
Jerry Barth



Sent from my Sprint Tablet.


-------- Original message --------
From: "sw via groups.io" <v1opps=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Date: 7/26/21 5:38 PM (GMT-04:00)
To: electricboats@groups.io
Subject: Re: [electricboats] Apple Ant BMS App

It seemed to work for me 
Bluetooth on?


On Monday, July 26, 2021, 02:30:43 PM PDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


I use the Android app VBMS for the Ant BMS new version. It works well.  I made a BMS for a friend who has only apple devices. We tried this one:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xiaoxiang-bms/id1375405426
It connects to the board but says only "waiting for data". Any clue how to get it working or a better apple based app?
Thanks,
Jerry Barth



Sent from my Sprint Tablet.

Re: [electricboats] Apple Ant BMS App

It seemed to work for me 
Bluetooth on?


On Monday, July 26, 2021, 02:30:43 PM PDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


I use the Android app VBMS for the Ant BMS new version. It works well.  I made a BMS for a friend who has only apple devices. We tried this one:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xiaoxiang-bms/id1375405426
It connects to the board but says only "waiting for data". Any clue how to get it working or a better apple based app?
Thanks,
Jerry Barth



Sent from my Sprint Tablet.

[electricboats] Apple Ant BMS App

I use the Android app VBMS for the Ant BMS new version. It works well.  I made a BMS for a friend who has only apple devices. We tried this one:
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/xiaoxiang-bms/id1375405426
It connects to the board but says only "waiting for data". Any clue how to get it working or a better apple based app?
Thanks,
Jerry Barth



Sent from my Sprint Tablet.

[electricboats] Brushless DC Moter Controller

I have a ePropulsioin Spirit 1 motor w/o a controller: just the shaft, motor and propeller.  Anyone know what controller I could use to run the motor, or how to build or where to buy one???

Thanks,
Newbie James
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Sunday, July 25, 2021

Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Installation - Throttle Position

I try to send the photo as an attachment. Maybe it works.

Sailing Uma (Youtube) uses the Oceanvolt throttle on the right side of their pedestal.
Most likely waterproof (designed in Finland). A bit small, I think.
A proper housing of the Curtis (or any regulator) will surely be necessary. IP67.
The handle length is all up to the designer (you ?).

The Maxi Mixer has 1.85m draft and that is too much for my waters.
So far I'm happy with my Maxi 87 :-)

Living in the EU, buying boats outside of EU is a nightmare, even for older boats.
VAT is added (in my case 25%). So it should really be a bargain.

Carsten


On Monday, 26 July 2021, 12:40:02 GMT+8, Dan Pfeiffer <dan@pfeiffer.net> wrote:


For some reason your photo did not make it through....


My control levers are not Volvo, they are Edson on the steering pedestal just below the compass.  There were two levers for the diesel, one on the left for shift (FWD-REV) and one on the right for throttle (FAST_SLOW).  I chose the shift lever on the left to connect to the Curtis throttle below deck on the other end of the Morse cable.  Either would have worked well.  It made more sense for it to say FWD-REV than FAST-SLOW.  But I keep reaching to the wrong side after 20 years with the Volvo throttle to the right.  You can the the Curtis throttle and the Morse cable connected to it in that wide photo of my motor compartment.  It's up at the top on the left over the controller.  I'll get a better photo tomorrow. 

As it is the lever I have is very good and in a very good location.  But I am not a fan of the wheel and if I had trouble with it I would happily toss it overboard and convert the boat to tiller (they came both ways).    R=1/P applies.   For now that is a low priority.   The wheel is forward in the cockpit and I find that preferable as the mainsheet, the traveler, and the jib winches are in easy reach.  And non-sailor guests can be seated all the way aft in the cockpit and be completely out of the way for boat handling. 

I would not consider having the Curtis unit above deck.  It is not suited to exposure to the weather.   You could put it in a housing but I think it is better below deck with a linkage of some sort.  Especially in a salt water environment.    And I like the idea of having a relatively massive or husky lever with a lot of feel to it rather than a delicate little lever or a wee little knob.  Moving 6-1/2 tons of boat should have a little more to it than a tiny knob or lever.  Even if the actual control (the throttle) is a wee little potentiometer.

By the way, one of the members at my club has a Maxi Mixer.  A very interesting boat though somewhat uncommon in these waters.  It's for sale if your interested.  He's in a bargaining mood.


Dan Pfeiffer

 

On 2021-07-25 10:52 pm, Carsten via groups.io wrote:

 
 
About the regulator/throttle :
If you like the position of the Volvo handle (which I don't), it might be possible to mount a housing in the lazarette to connect the Curtis to the handle shaft directly.
 
My idea is to mount my Curtis on top of the tiller, near the base. The handle will move in the axial direction of the boat, so logically forward will be ahead, and reverse will be astern.
When maneuvering (especially when berthing), it's so easy to forget the right direction when operating the Volvo handle, that (in my case) shifts direction port-starboard.
See photo, where the 3-button box is to be replaced with the Curtis throttle.
 

 
 
On Monday, 26 July 2021, 09:56:31 GMT+8, Dan Pfeiffer <dan@pfeiffer.net> wrote:
 
 

The throttle unit from Thunderstruck is electronic.  Probably an optical device??  Not sure.  It is the Curtis ET-134.
https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/curtis-et-134.html

But there is a mechanical linkage from the pedestal mounted lever in the cockpit to the Curtis unit below deck.  It is the same lever that was for gear shifting on the Volvo.  I made a mount for the Curtis throttle to connect it to the Morse cable from the lever on the pedestal.   All of those linkages make the throttle feel a bit vague and it is difficult to feel the neutral detent in the Curtis throttle. 


My cooling system is not reaching 100C. I was just saying the hose should be able to take that.  Or maybe about 120C to have a little extra margin just in case.  But the 65C hose is not going to be adequate. 

I have been checking temps with my Laser IR thermometer.   It is unreliable on shiny surfaces.  For those I can put on some tape.  I don't know that I get any more useful info from the temperature of the motor or controller case compared to what the internal sensors report.  It is handy to check the stuffing box and thrust bearing housing and the cooling system parts.

Dan Pfeiffer



On 2021-07-25 1:10 pm, Carsten via groups.io wrote:

Dan, you can make a wifi antenna. It's easy.
 
Your throttle is not electronic ?
 
If your cooling system goes to 100C then something is wrong  and may explode.
I suggest a temperature gauge to the system.
Another thing, you may check the different part surfaces with a lasergun thermometer when running.
 
Happy sailing, Dan
 

PÃ¥ man., den 26. jul. 2021 klokken 0:57, Dan Pfeiffer
<dan@pfeiffer.net> skrev:

All good Questions Carsten.  And good suggestions.  I have done the gopro on a stick at the dock to inspect the bottom.  I loose the wifi connection after it's about a foot underwater but it keeps recording. 

I have tried a bit of reverse then to neutral to get the prop set the other way so it will feather while still moving forward.  I have had mixed results.  But I have only been at this for a couple weeks so I need to do more experimenting.  One problem is be the vagueness of the feel of the lever control.  The neutral detent in the throttle unit is hard to feel from the lever in the cockpit through the Morse cable connection.   So its a bit too easy when shifting to neutral to skip over and into the opposite direction. 

 
Yes, adding a bit of power to tack has been handy.  I have only done that in light (4-7) wind with chop conditions which are a bit troublesome for tacking.  I also used a little bit of motor to maintain 4-5 in those conditions rather than 2-3 I would get with just sail.  Worked well.   But adding the power instantly with the feathering prop still requires that you mind the wind up of the motor until the prop blades are fully rotated on the hub.  The acceleration curves of the controller will help with that. 

I may have overstate the Volvo idle.  Probably more like 800 looking back at my notes.  And I may have set it there to get past the vibration at very low RPM.  Mine was a 2 cyl Volvo MD11.   My notes on speed vs rpm started at 900.  I may have skipped the lower RPM in recording that.   That is still a lot faster than the slow speed you can run the electric at. 

I will probably switch that that same hose I used for raw water which is basically the auto type but with a marine rating (Trident).  I will add that bleed valve at the controller inlet and I may re-mount the controller lower on the bulkhead so there is more space above it in the fill hose to get the coolant level higher above the high point in the system (controller).  I will also look into adding a sight tube that is OK to 100C so I can monitor for bubbles.  In the mean time I'll keep the power down to keep temps under 65C.  And that seems to be under 6 kts.  That's where I would operate normally anyway. 

Another thing I probably should have had was a drain valve on the coolant system.  It might help to keep from making a mess when re-configuring the system.  But I was really trying to keep the parts count to a minimum to honor the R=1/P relationship I try to live by. 

R=1/P
R is reliability
P is number of parts

The goal in design should be less than one part.


Dan Pfeiffer


On 2021-07-25 3:47 am, Carsten via groups.io wrote:

 
Dan, I envy you to just go for a sail !
For feathering, perhaps set sail, rev the motor up to 6 knots and set it to neutral. Then it should feather.
 
Does it begin to spin in short surges (unfeathers), if it is already feathered at higher speed, and you slow down ?
 
Another thing, when you tack, you can use the instantly available motor to keep up the speed, so it doesn't "die", when turning through the straight headwind. My boat dies easily in light winds, so I am looking forward to that.
Keep the motor running up to 6 knots, and set to neutral  for feathering. Just an idea.
 
If you want to check what's going on underneath, you could mount a Gopro with Wifi on a stick (aluminum tube), and see what happens on your smartphone :-)  See Youtube for connecting to wifi.
Also nice for checking growth.
When sailing, of course you'll need to secure the stick properly !
 
My MD6A Volvo idles at 600 rpm. 1100 seems a lot ?
 
You can use automotive hoses for the cooling system, and I think you already used that for the raw water ?
At the top inlet (the blue) hose of the controller, you can insert a valve to release the air trapped there.
Run the pump a bit when topping up, so it circulates.
Again, just an idea.
 
Carsten
 
 
 
On Sunday, 25 July 2021, 13:13:46 GMT+8, Dan Pfeiffer <dan@pfeiffer.net> wrote:
 
 

I have a little more info on props and performance in general.  I got out for an excellent sail today in 15-20 kts.  While sailing at a sustained 7.5 knots I checked the propeller and it was not spinning so it found its way to being feathered all on its own.  All I did was put the motor control to neutral.  At slower and more typical sailing speeds of 3-5 kts it seems to spin in short surges.  So there is more to learn about the prop behavior but it is able to fully feather and stay that way with more boat speed. 

And another thing about how the boat handles now compared to the diesel.   I can operate the electric at very slow speeds.  The diesel could not do that.  It idled at 1100 rpm which translated to 550 prop RPM and a bit better than 3 kts.  I can operated the electric at much slower RPM.  The steerage suffers greatly so it's debatable how useful that is but it is a distinct difference. 

Also I will need to upgrade the hoses I used for the cooling system.  They turn out to be rated for only to 65C and that isn't enough for high powered operation.  That's only 15C beyond the set point to turn on cooling.   I used Trident reinforced water hose.  I'll need something made as a heater hose.  The transparent hose was very handy in chasing bubbles out of the system.  But keeping the hoses from melting will be more useful. 

Dan Pfeiffer

 
 
 

Re: [electricboats] Electric Drive Installation - Throttle Position

For some reason your photo did not make it through....


My control levers are not Volvo, they are Edson on the steering pedestal just below the compass.  There were two levers for the diesel, one on the left for shift (FWD-REV) and one on the right for throttle (FAST_SLOW).  I chose the shift lever on the left to connect to the Curtis throttle below deck on the other end of the Morse cable.  Either would have worked well.  It made more sense for it to say FWD-REV than FAST-SLOW.  But I keep reaching to the wrong side after 20 years with the Volvo throttle to the right.  You can the the Curtis throttle and the Morse cable connected to it in that wide photo of my motor compartment.  It's up at the top on the left over the controller.  I'll get a better photo tomorrow. 

As it is the lever I have is very good and in a very good location.  But I am not a fan of the wheel and if I had trouble with it I would happily toss it overboard and convert the boat to tiller (they came both ways).    R=1/P applies.   For now that is a low priority.   The wheel is forward in the cockpit and I find that preferable as the mainsheet, the traveler, and the jib winches are in easy reach.  And non-sailor guests can be seated all the way aft in the cockpit and be completely out of the way for boat handling. 

I would not consider having the Curtis unit above deck.  It is not suited to exposure to the weather.   You could put it in a housing but I think it is better below deck with a linkage of some sort.  Especially in a salt water environment.    And I like the idea of having a relatively massive or husky lever with a lot of feel to it rather than a delicate little lever or a wee little knob.  Moving 6-1/2 tons of boat should have a little more to it than a tiny knob or lever.  Even if the actual control (the throttle) is a wee little potentiometer.

By the way, one of the members at my club has a Maxi Mixer.  A very interesting boat though somewhat uncommon in these waters.  It's for sale if your interested.  He's in a bargaining mood.


Dan Pfeiffer

 

On 2021-07-25 10:52 pm, Carsten via groups.io wrote:

 
 
About the regulator/throttle :
If you like the position of the Volvo handle (which I don't), it might be possible to mount a housing in the lazarette to connect the Curtis to the handle shaft directly.
 
My idea is to mount my Curtis on top of the tiller, near the base. The handle will move in the axial direction of the boat, so logically forward will be ahead, and reverse will be astern.
When maneuvering (especially when berthing), it's so easy to forget the right direction when operating the Volvo handle, that (in my case) shifts direction port-starboard.
See photo, where the 3-button box is to be replaced with the Curtis throttle.
 

 
 
On Monday, 26 July 2021, 09:56:31 GMT+8, Dan Pfeiffer <dan@pfeiffer.net> wrote:
 
 

The throttle unit from Thunderstruck is electronic.  Probably an optical device??  Not sure.  It is the Curtis ET-134.
https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/curtis-et-134.html

But there is a mechanical linkage from the pedestal mounted lever in the cockpit to the Curtis unit below deck.  It is the same lever that was for gear shifting on the Volvo.  I made a mount for the Curtis throttle to connect it to the Morse cable from the lever on the pedestal.   All of those linkages make the throttle feel a bit vague and it is difficult to feel the neutral detent in the Curtis throttle. 


My cooling system is not reaching 100C. I was just saying the hose should be able to take that.  Or maybe about 120C to have a little extra margin just in case.  But the 65C hose is not going to be adequate. 

I have been checking temps with my Laser IR thermometer.   It is unreliable on shiny surfaces.  For those I can put on some tape.  I don't know that I get any more useful info from the temperature of the motor or controller case compared to what the internal sensors report.  It is handy to check the stuffing box and thrust bearing housing and the cooling system parts.

Dan Pfeiffer



On 2021-07-25 1:10 pm, Carsten via groups.io wrote:

Dan, you can make a wifi antenna. It's easy.
 
Your throttle is not electronic ?
 
If your cooling system goes to 100C then something is wrong  and may explode.
I suggest a temperature gauge to the system.
Another thing, you may check the different part surfaces with a lasergun thermometer when running.
 
Happy sailing, Dan
 

På man., den 26. jul. 2021 klokken 0:57, Dan Pfeiffer
<dan@pfeiffer.net> skrev:

All good Questions Carsten.  And good suggestions.  I have done the gopro on a stick at the dock to inspect the bottom.  I loose the wifi connection after it's about a foot underwater but it keeps recording. 

I have tried a bit of reverse then to neutral to get the prop set the other way so it will feather while still moving forward.  I have had mixed results.  But I have only been at this for a couple weeks so I need to do more experimenting.  One problem is be the vagueness of the feel of the lever control.  The neutral detent in the throttle unit is hard to feel from the lever in the cockpit through the Morse cable connection.   So its a bit too easy when shifting to neutral to skip over and into the opposite direction. 

 
Yes, adding a bit of power to tack has been handy.  I have only done that in light (4-7) wind with chop conditions which are a bit troublesome for tacking.  I also used a little bit of motor to maintain 4-5 in those conditions rather than 2-3 I would get with just sail.  Worked well.   But adding the power instantly with the feathering prop still requires that you mind the wind up of the motor until the prop blades are fully rotated on the hub.  The acceleration curves of the controller will help with that. 

I may have overstate the Volvo idle.  Probably more like 800 looking back at my notes.  And I may have set it there to get past the vibration at very low RPM.  Mine was a 2 cyl Volvo MD11.   My notes on speed vs rpm started at 900.  I may have skipped the lower RPM in recording that.   That is still a lot faster than the slow speed you can run the electric at. 

I will probably switch that that same hose I used for raw water which is basically the auto type but with a marine rating (Trident).  I will add that bleed valve at the controller inlet and I may re-mount the controller lower on the bulkhead so there is more space above it in the fill hose to get the coolant level higher above the high point in the system (controller).  I will also look into adding a sight tube that is OK to 100C so I can monitor for bubbles.  In the mean time I'll keep the power down to keep temps under 65C.  And that seems to be under 6 kts.  That's where I would operate normally anyway. 

Another thing I probably should have had was a drain valve on the coolant system.  It might help to keep from making a mess when re-configuring the system.  But I was really trying to keep the parts count to a minimum to honor the R=1/P relationship I try to live by. 

R=1/P
R is reliability
P is number of parts

The goal in design should be less than one part.


Dan Pfeiffer


On 2021-07-25 3:47 am, Carsten via groups.io wrote:

 
Dan, I envy you to just go for a sail !
For feathering, perhaps set sail, rev the motor up to 6 knots and set it to neutral. Then it should feather.
 
Does it begin to spin in short surges (unfeathers), if it is already feathered at higher speed, and you slow down ?
 
Another thing, when you tack, you can use the instantly available motor to keep up the speed, so it doesn't "die", when turning through the straight headwind. My boat dies easily in light winds, so I am looking forward to that.
Keep the motor running up to 6 knots, and set to neutral  for feathering. Just an idea.
 
If you want to check what's going on underneath, you could mount a Gopro with Wifi on a stick (aluminum tube), and see what happens on your smartphone :-)  See Youtube for connecting to wifi.
Also nice for checking growth.
When sailing, of course you'll need to secure the stick properly !
 
My MD6A Volvo idles at 600 rpm. 1100 seems a lot ?
 
You can use automotive hoses for the cooling system, and I think you already used that for the raw water ?
At the top inlet (the blue) hose of the controller, you can insert a valve to release the air trapped there.
Run the pump a bit when topping up, so it circulates.
Again, just an idea.
 
Carsten
 
 
 
On Sunday, 25 July 2021, 13:13:46 GMT+8, Dan Pfeiffer <dan@pfeiffer.net> wrote:
 
 

I have a little more info on props and performance in general.  I got out for an excellent sail today in 15-20 kts.  While sailing at a sustained 7.5 knots I checked the propeller and it was not spinning so it found its way to being feathered all on its own.  All I did was put the motor control to neutral.  At slower and more typical sailing speeds of 3-5 kts it seems to spin in short surges.  So there is more to learn about the prop behavior but it is able to fully feather and stay that way with more boat speed. 

And another thing about how the boat handles now compared to the diesel.   I can operate the electric at very slow speeds.  The diesel could not do that.  It idled at 1100 rpm which translated to 550 prop RPM and a bit better than 3 kts.  I can operated the electric at much slower RPM.  The steerage suffers greatly so it's debatable how useful that is but it is a distinct difference. 

Also I will need to upgrade the hoses I used for the cooling system.  They turn out to be rated for only to 65C and that isn't enough for high powered operation.  That's only 15C beyond the set point to turn on cooling.   I used Trident reinforced water hose.  I'll need something made as a heater hose.  The transparent hose was very handy in chasing bubbles out of the system.  But keeping the hoses from melting will be more useful. 

Dan Pfeiffer

 
 
 

[electricboats] Electric Drive Installation - Throttle Position


About the regulator/throttle :
If you like the position of the Volvo handle (which I don't), it might be possible to mount a housing in the lazarette to connect the Curtis to the handle shaft directly.

My idea is to mount my Curtis on top of the tiller, near the base. The handle will move in the axial direction of the boat, so logically forward will be ahead, and reverse will be astern.
When maneuvering (especially when berthing), it's so easy to forget the right direction when operating the Volvo handle, that (in my case) shifts direction port-starboard.
See photo, where the 3-button box is to be replaced with the Curtis throttle.

Inline image


On Monday, 26 July 2021, 09:56:31 GMT+8, Dan Pfeiffer <dan@pfeiffer.net> wrote:


The throttle unit from Thunderstruck is electronic.  Probably an optical device??  Not sure.  It is the Curtis ET-134.
https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/curtis-et-134.html

But there is a mechanical linkage from the pedestal mounted lever in the cockpit to the Curtis unit below deck.  It is the same lever that was for gear shifting on the Volvo.  I made a mount for the Curtis throttle to connect it to the Morse cable from the lever on the pedestal.   All of those linkages make the throttle feel a bit vague and it is difficult to feel the neutral detent in the Curtis throttle. 


My cooling system is not reaching 100C. I was just saying the hose should be able to take that.  Or maybe about 120C to have a little extra margin just in case.  But the 65C hose is not going to be adequate. 

I have been checking temps with my Laser IR thermometer.   It is unreliable on shiny surfaces.  For those I can put on some tape.  I don't know that I get any more useful info from the temperature of the motor or controller case compared to what the internal sensors report.  It is handy to check the stuffing box and thrust bearing housing and the cooling system parts.

Dan Pfeiffer



On 2021-07-25 1:10 pm, Carsten via groups.io wrote:

Dan, you can make a wifi antenna. It's easy.
 
Your throttle is not electronic ?
 
If your cooling system goes to 100C then something is wrong  and may explode.
I suggest a temperature gauge to the system.
Another thing, you may check the different part surfaces with a lasergun thermometer when running.
 
Happy sailing, Dan
 

PÃ¥ man., den 26. jul. 2021 klokken 0:57, Dan Pfeiffer
<dan@pfeiffer.net> skrev:

All good Questions Carsten.  And good suggestions.  I have done the gopro on a stick at the dock to inspect the bottom.  I loose the wifi connection after it's about a foot underwater but it keeps recording. 

I have tried a bit of reverse then to neutral to get the prop set the other way so it will feather while still moving forward.  I have had mixed results.  But I have only been at this for a couple weeks so I need to do more experimenting.  One problem is be the vagueness of the feel of the lever control.  The neutral detent in the throttle unit is hard to feel from the lever in the cockpit through the Morse cable connection.   So its a bit too easy when shifting to neutral to skip over and into the opposite direction. 

 
Yes, adding a bit of power to tack has been handy.  I have only done that in light (4-7) wind with chop conditions which are a bit troublesome for tacking.  I also used a little bit of motor to maintain 4-5 in those conditions rather than 2-3 I would get with just sail.  Worked well.   But adding the power instantly with the feathering prop still requires that you mind the wind up of the motor until the prop blades are fully rotated on the hub.  The acceleration curves of the controller will help with that. 

I may have overstate the Volvo idle.  Probably more like 800 looking back at my notes.  And I may have set it there to get past the vibration at very low RPM.  Mine was a 2 cyl Volvo MD11.   My notes on speed vs rpm started at 900.  I may have skipped the lower RPM in recording that.   That is still a lot faster than the slow speed you can run the electric at. 

I will probably switch that that same hose I used for raw water which is basically the auto type but with a marine rating (Trident).  I will add that bleed valve at the controller inlet and I may re-mount the controller lower on the bulkhead so there is more space above it in the fill hose to get the coolant level higher above the high point in the system (controller).  I will also look into adding a sight tube that is OK to 100C so I can monitor for bubbles.  In the mean time I'll keep the power down to keep temps under 65C.  And that seems to be under 6 kts.  That's where I would operate normally anyway. 

Another thing I probably should have had was a drain valve on the coolant system.  It might help to keep from making a mess when re-configuring the system.  But I was really trying to keep the parts count to a minimum to honor the R=1/P relationship I try to live by. 

R=1/P
R is reliability
P is number of parts

The goal in design should be less than one part.


Dan Pfeiffer


On 2021-07-25 3:47 am, Carsten via groups.io wrote:

 
Dan, I envy you to just go for a sail !
For feathering, perhaps set sail, rev the motor up to 6 knots and set it to neutral. Then it should feather.
 
Does it begin to spin in short surges (unfeathers), if it is already feathered at higher speed, and you slow down ?
 
Another thing, when you tack, you can use the instantly available motor to keep up the speed, so it doesn't "die", when turning through the straight headwind. My boat dies easily in light winds, so I am looking forward to that.
Keep the motor running up to 6 knots, and set to neutral  for feathering. Just an idea.
 
If you want to check what's going on underneath, you could mount a Gopro with Wifi on a stick (aluminum tube), and see what happens on your smartphone :-)  See Youtube for connecting to wifi.
Also nice for checking growth.
When sailing, of course you'll need to secure the stick properly !
 
My MD6A Volvo idles at 600 rpm. 1100 seems a lot ?
 
You can use automotive hoses for the cooling system, and I think you already used that for the raw water ?
At the top inlet (the blue) hose of the controller, you can insert a valve to release the air trapped there.
Run the pump a bit when topping up, so it circulates.
Again, just an idea.
 
Carsten
 
 
 
On Sunday, 25 July 2021, 13:13:46 GMT+8, Dan Pfeiffer <dan@pfeiffer.net> wrote:
 
 

I have a little more info on props and performance in general.  I got out for an excellent sail today in 15-20 kts.  While sailing at a sustained 7.5 knots I checked the propeller and it was not spinning so it found its way to being feathered all on its own.  All I did was put the motor control to neutral.  At slower and more typical sailing speeds of 3-5 kts it seems to spin in short surges.  So there is more to learn about the prop behavior but it is able to fully feather and stay that way with more boat speed. 

And another thing about how the boat handles now compared to the diesel.   I can operate the electric at very slow speeds.  The diesel could not do that.  It idled at 1100 rpm which translated to 550 prop RPM and a bit better than 3 kts.  I can operated the electric at much slower RPM.  The steerage suffers greatly so it's debatable how useful that is but it is a distinct difference. 

Also I will need to upgrade the hoses I used for the cooling system.  They turn out to be rated for only to 65C and that isn't enough for high powered operation.  That's only 15C beyond the set point to turn on cooling.   I used Trident reinforced water hose.  I'll need something made as a heater hose.  The transparent hose was very handy in chasing bubbles out of the system.  But keeping the hoses from melting will be more useful. 

Dan Pfeiffer

 
 
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