Tuesday, May 31, 2022

Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

I've been getting BMS experience now for several years with my pack (20P(12S(2P)): 30kwh @ nom. 42v.  As noted by canoesailor, a vehicle typically uses one battery management "system" (BMS).  Mine needs to manage 20 strings with 12 series pairs of Enerdel cells.  Each of those strings has its own remote lithium energy controller (RLEC).  On a THINK electric car, a master (MLEC) communicates with and controls 16 RLECs via a CAN bus.  As designed, only 16 RLEC addresses can be CAN mapped, so for my boat with 20 RLECs, I use 2 CAN buses and an Arduino DUO microcontroller board with dual CAN port interface.  The BMS SW I wrote.  And that has been a learning experience.  For the longest time I thought it best to simply identify the lowest cell pair out of 240, set a threshold just above that and bypass all the cells in the pack to balance.  What I didn't realize though was that these remote sense boards don't all scale the same.  And so, even with all the cells across the pack balanced, there could be 20mv difference in reported value between one string and another even though the strings are in parallel!

Then it hit me: The right thing to do (since these 20 strings are all paralleled) is to balance each string by itself relative to its own minimum cell.  Better still (ignoring energy lost to power the BMS system), balance just 1 string at a time and let the paralleled strings feed the balancing one as it's balancing.  This can be a biggee.  Imagine having just 1 of 240 cell pairs in the pack that is low, say 50mv low.  A simple BMS that tells all cell pairs to dump power until reaching, say, Vcellmin + 5mv would dump power in 239 cell pairs with the entire pack dropping voltage simultaneously for no reason---and not settling until losing something like 50-60mv of pack voltage.  If instead just the 1 string with the widest span between lowest and highest cell voltage bypasses its cells first, the rest of the pack will still drop, but just slightly, and only to feed the bypass current of the string bypassing.  In so doing, that lowest cell will instead RISE in voltage.  Do this for each of the strings and voila!  Balanced strings but without going to the lowest cell voltage simultaneously.  This reduces greatly the stress on the power electronics and reduces risk.  Though it is much slower.

 

Anyway, I'm not done experimenting.  I do not power up my BMS except once every few months to check status and balance cells.  That's about 1 balancing per 3 or 4 charge cycles.  Realize that powering a BMS consumes power.  In my case, I have 20 RLECs which consume about 1watt each (plus any bypass power), an Arduino DUO and CAN driver (5watts?) and if powered from my pack, a 48v-12v DCDC block, which is not very efficient at these low power levels (another 7w).  This amounts to 4w (cell bypass, 11 cells) + 18w (20 RLEC) + 5w (master) + 7w (DCDC) = 34watts.  While this might not sound like much, in 1 day this is 0.8kwh and in 1 week, about 6kwh, or about 20% of my pack capacity.  So the only way I'd consider powering this BMS full time would be via shore power.  But why?  No reason to.  Best to keep it disconnected unless needed.

 

Finally, unless your BMS controller is communicating with your charger and motor controller, the BMS will not actively protect you from over-charging  or over-discharging a cell except to the extent that you pre-balanced the cells and you only typically have 100-150ma (250ma w/Batrium?) of bypass current available, which may not be fast enough to prevent the condition.  If communication with the controller and charger is happening, the BMS can halt or reduce charging or in discharge, reduce the available power for propulsion.

 

Anyway, there are a lot of options when one looks at the nitty gritty of how best to approach cell balancing.  The simplest might be to have independent remote BMS cards that manage each parallel string (like mine).  It could be done simply as "top-balancing" (i.e. at the end of full charging --- the default for my RLECs) or by active balancing at whatever voltage the pack is at (what my BMS does) or bottom balancing (who does that?), or all of the above?

 

-Myles

 

From: electricboats@groups.io [mailto:electricboats@groups.io] On Behalf Of cpcanoesailor via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2022 7:18 AM
To: electricboats@groups.io
Subject: Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

 

I think you will only need one BMS, since you have only one battery. A BMS is a battery management system, protecting the cells from over-voltage, under-voltage, and over current situations, whether they are caused by charging or a load. It may or may not also do balancing between the cells. You will probably need some sort of controller for each of your chargers. The shore power charger should have one built in. You will need at least one for your solar panels, but I would suggest one for each panel to get the best output in partial shading. You will probably also want a controller for the diesel generator DC output.

Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

I've been getting BMS experience now for several years with my pack (20P(12S(2P)): 30kwh @ nom. 42v.  As noted by canoesailor, a vehicle typically uses one battery management "system" (BMS).  Mine needs to manage 20 strings with 12 series pairs of Enerdel cells.  Each of those strings has its own remote lithium energy controller (RLEC).  On a THINK electric car, a master (MLEC) communicates with and controls 16 RLECs via a CAN bus.  As designed, only 16 RLEC addresses can be CAN mapped, so for my boat with 20 RLECs, I use 2 CAN buses and an Arduino DUO microcontroller board with dual CAN port interface.  The BMS SW I wrote.  And that has been a learning experience.  For the longest time I thought it best to simply identify the lowest cell pair out of 240, set a threshold just above that and bypass all the cells in the pack to balance.  What I didn't realize though was that these remote sense boards don't all scale the same.  And so, even with all the cells across the pack balanced, there could be 20mv difference in reported value between one string and another even though the strings are in parallel!

Then it hit me: The right thing to do (since these 20 strings are all paralleled) is to balance each string by itself relative to its own minimum cell.  Better still (ignoring energy lost to power the BMS system), balance just 1 string at a time and let the paralleled strings feed the balancing one as it's balancing.  This can be a biggee.  Imagine having just 1 of 240 cell pairs in the pack that is low, say 50mv low.  A simple BMS that tells all cell pairs to dump power until reaching, say, Vcellmin + 5mv would dump power in 239 cell pairs with the entire pack dropping voltage simultaneously for no reason---and not settling until losing something like 50-60mv of pack voltage.  If instead just the 1 string with the widest span between lowest and highest cell voltage bypasses its cells first, the rest of the pack will still drop, but just slightly, and only to feed the bypass current of the string bypassing.  In so doing, that lowest cell will instead RISE in voltage.  Do this for each of the strings and voila!  Balanced strings but without going to the lowest cell voltage simultaneously.  This reduces greatly the stress on the power electronics and reduces risk.  Though it is much slower.

 

Anyway, I'm not done experimenting.  I do not power up my BMS except once every few months to check status and balance cells.  That's about 1 balancing per 3 or 4 charge cycles.  Realize that powering a BMS consumes power.  In my case, I have 20 RLECs which consume about 1watt each (plus any bypass power), an Arduino DUO and CAN driver (5watts?) and if powered from my pack, a 48v-12v DCDC block, which is not very efficient at these low power levels (another 7w).  This amounts to 4w (cell bypass, 11 cells) + 18w (20 RLEC) + 5w (master) + 7w (DCDC) = 34watts.  While this might not sound like much, in 1 day this is 0.8kwh and in 1 week, about 6kwh, or about 20% of my pack capacity.  So the only way I'd consider powering this BMS full time would be via shore power.  But why?  No reason to.  Best to keep it disconnected unless needed.

 

Finally, unless your BMS controller is communicating with your charger and motor controller, the BMS will not actively protect you from over-charging  or over-discharging a cell except to the extent that you pre-balanced the cells and you only typically have 100-150ma (250ma w/Batrium?) of bypass current available, which may not be fast enough to prevent the condition.  If communication with the controller and charger is happening, the BMS can halt or reduce charging or in discharge, reduce the available power for propulsion.

 

Anyway, there are a lot of options when one looks at the nitty gritty of how best to approach cell balancing.  The simplest might be to have independent remote BMS cards that manage each parallel string (like mine).  It could be done simply as "top-balancing" (i.e. at the end of full charging --- the default for my RLECs) or by active balancing at whatever voltage the pack is at (what my BMS does) or bottom balancing (who does that?), or all of the above?

 

-Myles

 

From: electricboats@groups.io [mailto:electricboats@groups.io] On Behalf Of cpcanoesailor via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2022 7:18 AM
To: electricboats@groups.io
Subject: Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

 

I think you will only need one BMS, since you have only one battery. A BMS is a battery management system, protecting the cells from over-voltage, under-voltage, and over current situations, whether they are caused by charging or a load. It may or may not also do balancing between the cells. You will probably need some sort of controller for each of your chargers. The shore power charger should have one built in. You will need at least one for your solar panels, but I would suggest one for each panel to get the best output in partial shading. You will probably also want a controller for the diesel generator DC output.

Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

I think you will only need one BMS, since you have only one battery. A BMS is a battery management system, protecting the cells from over-voltage, under-voltage, and over current situations, whether they are caused by charging or a load. It may or may not also do balancing between the cells. You will probably need some sort of controller for each of your chargers. The shore power charger should have one built in. You will need at least one for your solar panels, but I would suggest one for each panel to get the best output in partial shading. You will probably also want a controller for the diesel generator DC output.
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31976) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Sunday, May 29, 2022

Re: [electricboats] Generator to recharge battery bank

The charger appears to be a weak link, ~56V at 15A is only ~800W.  You'd need around five hours at that rate to go from 50% to 100% SOC on your VRLA battery bank.  The generator is fine though, and could probably run two of those chargers.  Not that they would cooperate in parallel.

If/when you move to an LFP battery bank, a much-less-involved piece of electronics will suffice for charging.  For my 10kWh LFP bank, I use a MeanWell RSP-1000-48, which can deliver ~56V at 21A (nearly 1,200W), with an important feature that they can be paralleled easily, as they're just adjustable-voltage current-limited AC-to-DC power supplies.  Two of those is probably too much for your generator, but even one would bring that five-hour time down closer to three hours.  And they make a '750' version that would probably allow paralleling with your generator.
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31975) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] Generator to recharge battery bank

Hi Ryan

Ok, handy points on the generator fumes - plan to have that up on the deck well clear of the cabin as a backup only - but yes potential danger there so thanks for pointing that out.
Also cheers to Bobkar for the clear explanation.
Specs for charger below - 15amp at 48volt so would that push in 15 amps per hour?? 80 ( 50%DOD) / 15 = 5.3 hours to charge give or take??
Ideally solar and wind generators will mean I never use the petrol generator. All the old salts at the boatyard keep telling me "you need to motor out of danger..etc.etc...".


Matson 4 in 1 Multi Volt Battery Charger 12, 24, 36, 48V

Description

Absorption YES Analysis / Fault Find YES Battery Type Deep Cycle and automotive VRLA/ AGM/ SLA/ Flooded & Lead Acid Case Construction Aluminium Charge Rate 14.7V, 29.4V, 44.1V, 58.8V Charging Stage 3 Stage Desulphation YES Dimensions 300 x 223 x 101mm Equalisation YES Fan Cooled YES Input Voltage - DC 240VAC IP Rating N/A Min Start Voltage 12V - 8.0 V, 24V - 16.0V, 36V - 27.0V, - 48V - 40.0V Output Current 30/ 25/ 15 Amp Output Voltage 12 / 24/ 36 / 48 Volt DC Permanent Mount YES Recondition YES Size 10 - 400 Ah Soft Start YES Weight 5Kg

The Matson 4 in 1 Multi Volt charger is all you need for all your at home or workshop charging needs. Ideal for your family car battery right through to heavy duty 48 volt systems like golf buggies, forklifts and trucks Simple to use, simply select the required voltage, attach the clamps and the charger will take care of the rest. LED indicators will let you know what is going on during the charging cycles. Full safety protections including overheating, reverse polarity protection and short circuiting. Charges Lead Acid, NiMH, AGM and Sealed batteries.

  • 4 different charge voltage settings
  • 12V - 30 Amps
  • 24V - 30 Amps
  • 36V - 25 Amps
  • 48V - 15 Amps
  • 3 stage fully automatic Switch Mode charging and maintenance capabilities
  • Offers protection against short circuiting, reverse connection and overheating
  • LED display bar indicates what voltage has been selected and percentage charged
  • Charges Lead Acid, NiMH, AGM and Sealed batteries
  • Heavy duty Aluminium housing Charger Output Nominal Output Voltage 12V 24V 36V 48V Max Output A 30A 30A 25A 15A Max Output Power 450W 900W 1000W 900A Charge Voltage 14.7V 29.4V 44.1V 58.8V Float Voltage 13.6V 26.6V 39.9V 53.2V Minimum Start Voltage 8.0V 16.0V 27.0V 40.0V This item is sold by Blue Bar Industries, an offshore business located in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia, and may incur NZ customs duty or tax. Find out more at http://trade.me/whatsmyduty



On Mon, 30 May 2022 at 14:35, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:
What what kind of charger do you have?  That will determine whether the generator can fully supply the charger or not.  Most likely, the generator cannot charge your batteries one to one with consumption, so a model might be run the motor for an hour, it takes two hours to charge via generator or something like that. But really it's all speculation without knowing what kind of charger you are using.  With a portable generator on the water you do need to be really careful with exhaust. There is a reason marine generators typically mix the exhaust with water: it is really easy for the wind on the water to send the exhaust back into your cabin or whatever area your people are congregating in and give everyone carbon monoxide poisoning.  So when using portable generators on a sailboat just make sure that you're paying attention to the wind etc. the same way you do when sailing. 

On May 29, 2022, at 16:29, bobkart <couch45@msn.com> wrote:

You have ~7.7kWh total capacity in those VRLA batteries.  Considerably less 'net' capacity, when considering lead-acid DOD limits.

Around 3.5 hours of your 2.2kW generator will generate that much energy.  Of course the charger won't be 100% efficient from AC to DC, then lead-acid batteries are not very efficient input-to-output.  So call it four hours, then roughly halve that to keep within a 50% DOD limit.

So yeah, that generator is plenty for that size battery bank.  In the ballpark of two hours should be enough to get from 50% to 100% SOC.



--
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31974) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] Generator to recharge battery bank

What what kind of charger do you have?  That will determine whether the generator can fully supply the charger or not.  Most likely, the generator cannot charge your batteries one to one with consumption, so a model might be run the motor for an hour, it takes two hours to charge via generator or something like that. But really it's all speculation without knowing what kind of charger you are using.  With a portable generator on the water you do need to be really careful with exhaust. There is a reason marine generators typically mix the exhaust with water: it is really easy for the wind on the water to send the exhaust back into your cabin or whatever area your people are congregating in and give everyone carbon monoxide poisoning.  So when using portable generators on a sailboat just make sure that you're paying attention to the wind etc. the same way you do when sailing. 

On May 29, 2022, at 16:29, bobkart <couch45@msn.com> wrote:

You have ~7.7kWh total capacity in those VRLA batteries.  Considerably less 'net' capacity, when considering lead-acid DOD limits.

Around 3.5 hours of your 2.2kW generator will generate that much energy.  Of course the charger won't be 100% efficient from AC to DC, then lead-acid batteries are not very efficient input-to-output.  So call it four hours, then roughly halve that to keep within a 50% DOD limit.

So yeah, that generator is plenty for that size battery bank.  In the ballpark of two hours should be enough to get from 50% to 100% SOC.

Re: [electricboats] Generator to recharge battery bank

You have ~7.7kWh total capacity in those VRLA batteries.  Considerably less 'net' capacity, when considering lead-acid DOD limits.

Around 3.5 hours of your 2.2kW generator will generate that much energy.  Of course the charger won't be 100% efficient from AC to DC, then lead-acid batteries are not very efficient input-to-output.  So call it four hours, then roughly halve that to keep within a 50% DOD limit.

So yeah, that generator is plenty for that size battery bank.  In the ballpark of two hours should be enough to get from 50% to 100% SOC.
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31972) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

[electricboats] Generator to recharge battery bank

Hi
A rookie question I guess - but I am about to install a Thunderstruck 10kw into a 28FT Herreshoff sailboat down here in New Zealand

To start the project I have 160 amp-hour bank of 6 GEL VLRA 8 volt batteries for Electric Cars - I know this is minimal and will look for LifePo4 later in the project - but this will hopefully get me started.

My question is - if I have something like a  2.2kW (2.6kVA) max output petrol generator - will this be enough to charge up this battery bank?
I am not clear on a calculation of how big a generator has to be to charge up a bank in beginners language.
I have a Matson Ma4inone charger that I have used to keep the batteries topped up from our 240volt domestic supply while I wait to get the installation completed.

I will have a solar panel bank installed as well which is in the plan - but the generator would be a backup system.

Many thanks for any help on this one.

Richard


_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31971) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Saturday, May 28, 2022

Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

I'm doing 4x 32s with LF280 prismatic cells. I chose the Batrium Workmon 
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31970) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

I use ant too
Don't believe their ratings I believe they are peak not constant so I just use to equalize and keep an eye on the volts
32s is the biggest I have seen 
I believe u can just use less wires for smaller battery's


On Friday, May 27, 2022, 02:09:56 PM PDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


I use the Ant Bms. I'm pretty sure it will do 32 cells and over 100 volts. There's a bunch of versions (I have all "new versions") but one thing to look at is the size and number of wires off the Mosfet. I've seen some 100 amp boards for sale with the equivalent of a number 8 wire. Way too small. Once you get the board you have to make an enclosure. If you have android then use the VBMS app. If you have apple you'll have to use the Chinese app. It works well, although the coulumb meter is off by about 30%. I compared it with my victron battery monitor.
Jerry Barth



On May 27, 2022, at 3:53 PM, neriad6@gmail.com wrote:


My questions are similar to Skray775 (LifePo4 build questions), but I didn't want to hijack his thread.

I'm repowering a 45' sailboat with a 25kw electric motor from thunderstruck-ev.com. I'm using their water-cooled ME1616. Per their advice, I will use a 96v system.

I'm looking at the EVE Prismatic Cell batteries from Docan Power. It's a Chinese company, and the reviews are good.
https://www.docanpower.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_255_256&product_id=462

I will need to use 32 cells, and they are rated at 280 Ah. Charge/discharge rates: .5C/1C. I will not be exceeding 250 amps, and will probably run at about 100-150 amps.

I plan to have three ways to charge the cells:
1. Shore power battery charger
2. Four 24v solar panels
3. Diesel generator. The generator has four 24v alternators.

So, I would also like to know if it is feasible to use four BMS', since I'll have essentially four charge sources with either my solar panels or generator. From the other thread, I'm not sure what the consensus is.

I haven't found many 96v BMS' for sale...

Thanks in advance!

Friday, May 27, 2022

Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

I use ant too
Don't believe their ratings I believe they are peak not constant so I just use to equalize and keep an eye on the volts
32s is the biggest I have seen 
I believe u can just use less wires for smaller battery's


On Friday, May 27, 2022, 02:09:56 PM PDT, shredderf16 <shredderf16@sbcglobal.net> wrote:


I use the Ant Bms. I'm pretty sure it will do 32 cells and over 100 volts. There's a bunch of versions (I have all "new versions") but one thing to look at is the size and number of wires off the Mosfet. I've seen some 100 amp boards for sale with the equivalent of a number 8 wire. Way too small. Once you get the board you have to make an enclosure. If you have android then use the VBMS app. If you have apple you'll have to use the Chinese app. It works well, although the coulumb meter is off by about 30%. I compared it with my victron battery monitor.
Jerry Barth



On May 27, 2022, at 3:53 PM, neriad6@gmail.com wrote:


My questions are similar to Skray775 (LifePo4 build questions), but I didn't want to hijack his thread.

I'm repowering a 45' sailboat with a 25kw electric motor from thunderstruck-ev.com. I'm using their water-cooled ME1616. Per their advice, I will use a 96v system.

I'm looking at the EVE Prismatic Cell batteries from Docan Power. It's a Chinese company, and the reviews are good.
https://www.docanpower.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_255_256&product_id=462

I will need to use 32 cells, and they are rated at 280 Ah. Charge/discharge rates: .5C/1C. I will not be exceeding 250 amps, and will probably run at about 100-150 amps.

I plan to have three ways to charge the cells:
1. Shore power battery charger
2. Four 24v solar panels
3. Diesel generator. The generator has four 24v alternators.

So, I would also like to know if it is feasible to use four BMS', since I'll have essentially four charge sources with either my solar panels or generator. From the other thread, I'm not sure what the consensus is.

I haven't found many 96v BMS' for sale...

Thanks in advance!

Re: [electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

I use the Ant Bms. I'm pretty sure it will do 32 cells and over 100 volts. There's a bunch of versions (I have all "new versions") but one thing to look at is the size and number of wires off the Mosfet. I've seen some 100 amp boards for sale with the equivalent of a number 8 wire. Way too small. Once you get the board you have to make an enclosure. If you have android then use the VBMS app. If you have apple you'll have to use the Chinese app. It works well, although the coulumb meter is off by about 30%. I compared it with my victron battery monitor.
Jerry Barth



On May 27, 2022, at 3:53 PM, neriad6@gmail.com wrote:


My questions are similar to Skray775 (LifePo4 build questions), but I didn't want to hijack his thread.

I'm repowering a 45' sailboat with a 25kw electric motor from thunderstruck-ev.com. I'm using their water-cooled ME1616. Per their advice, I will use a 96v system.

I'm looking at the EVE Prismatic Cell batteries from Docan Power. It's a Chinese company, and the reviews are good.
https://www.docanpower.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_255_256&product_id=462

I will need to use 32 cells, and they are rated at 280 Ah. Charge/discharge rates: .5C/1C. I will not be exceeding 250 amps, and will probably run at about 100-150 amps.

I plan to have three ways to charge the cells:
1. Shore power battery charger
2. Four 24v solar panels
3. Diesel generator. The generator has four 24v alternators.

So, I would also like to know if it is feasible to use four BMS', since I'll have essentially four charge sources with either my solar panels or generator. From the other thread, I'm not sure what the consensus is.

I haven't found many 96v BMS' for sale...

Thanks in advance!
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31966) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

[electricboats] Another LifePo4 build question

My questions are similar to Skray775 (LifePo4 build questions), but I didn't want to hijack his thread.

I'm repowering a 45' sailboat with a 25kw electric motor from thunderstruck-ev.com. I'm using their water-cooled ME1616. Per their advice, I will use a 96v system.

I'm looking at the EVE Prismatic Cell batteries from Docan Power. It's a Chinese company, and the reviews are good.
https://www.docanpower.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_255_256&product_id=462

I will need to use 32 cells, and they are rated at 280 Ah. Charge/discharge rates: .5C/1C. I will not be exceeding 250 amps, and will probably run at about 100-150 amps.

I plan to have three ways to charge the cells:
1. Shore power battery charger
2. Four 24v solar panels
3. Diesel generator. The generator has four 24v alternators.

So, I would also like to know if it is feasible to use four BMS', since I'll have essentially four charge sources with either my solar panels or generator. From the other thread, I'm not sure what the consensus is.

I haven't found many 96v BMS' for sale...

Thanks in advance!
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31965) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

[electricboats] FOR SALE: 1980 Cape Dory 30C with electric motor and lithium pack

Hi everyone -- We are selling our 1980 Cape Dory 30 cutter, which we repowered with Thunderstruck's 10kw kit and a pack of 21 Nissan Leaf cells and recharge with 2 100w solar panels or shore power. We were very happy with the kit and worked with Matt Foley of Sunlight Conversions in NJ on the battery pack and the solar panel system. The boat also has shore power for faster charging and a plug-in generator for extended range. The boat is currently in Bridgeport, CT, and we're asking $20,000. Here's a link to the listing and I pasted the text below: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/518074549952246/

Re: the battery pack, the cells are balanced and in good condition; estimated to be roughly 65% capacity. They're configured 3p7s to run the 48v system with Thunderstruck's BMS. There's also a step-down converter to either power the 12v DC system or keep the house battery (brand-new 100ah AGM acts as a "savings bank" in case the 48v pack is ever depleted, crew will still have lights and radio). The charging system is controlled by Thunderstruck's BMS; boat can be charged by the two 100w solar panels or shore power charging. The batteries and the motor are all mounted to the engine bed (the 20gal diesel tank was removed). 

The listing: 
Qu'Appelle ("ca-pelle") is a 1980 Cape Dory 30 with a cutter rig--and perhaps one of the few CDs to be converted to electric drive. No more worrying about your engine seizing up for the season--Qu'Appelle starts up every time! Outfitted with a custom self-steering wind vane, two 100-watt solar panels that charge the lithium battery bank for the motor, and a brand-new house battery that charges via a step-down converter, this blue-water cruiser is completely off the grid. A plug-in gas generator allows for extended range while motoring. When you want quicker charging and comfort at the dock, just use the new shore power system with new wiring for multiple AC outlets and LED lighting in the galley, saloon, and v-berth. A new propane system with a solenoid shut-off controls both the gimbaled stove oven in the galley and the Cozy Cabin heater in the salon. This boat was being outfitted to circumnavigate by the previous owners and was disassembled with parts of the lining cut out so that leaks could easily be spotted and addressed. The previous owners also fixed any blisters in the hull and added barrier coat for further protection. She was reassembled in 2018 and has been lightly sailed since then . . . now she's ready for your adventures. Cape Dorys are solid boats known for their steadiness in the water due to their heavy displacement. They're a good-looking, "shippy" style, thanks to their Spartan Marine hardware, teak trim, and classic cutter rig. The draft is only 4'2", allowing more flexibility when anchoring; two CQR anchors, 200 feet of all-chain rode, and a Mantus bridle system give you peace of mind. A stacking dinghy on thick, thru-bolted teak supports sits below the main sail, ready to be launched and taken ashore. Qu'Appelle is a Carl Alberg design, which shows when she sails! With the original sail plan--a yankee up front and a staysail--and a slab reefing system that includes two reefs in the main, Qu'Appelle will get you through just about any weather comfortably. Serious inquiries only! Equipment List: EV SYSTEM: -10kw brushless electric motor from Thunderstruck -Lithium battery bank (21 used Nissan Leaf modules, 3P7S config). We estimated we could run the motor 3.5 hours at 3.5 knots (hull speed is 6.5 knots) -Thunderstruck Dilithium Design Battery Management System (BMS) -1600 watt gas generator (used as a range extender) -Brand-new 100AH AGM house battery -48v to 12v step-down converter (to charge AGM battery off lithium pack) -48V Sevcon Gen4 converter SOLAR PANEL SYSTEM: -Solar battery charger -Shore power battery charger -2 flexible Sunpower solar panels, 100w each -Custom stainless steel solar panel cockpit mount LPG: -Propane tank mount over transom (safe) -Gimbaled propane stove/oven -Cozy Cabin propane heater -LPG solenoid shut-off ELECTRICAL: -DC and AC panels -New AC and DC wiring -3 AC outlets (in galley, salon, and v-berth) -Mounted dome and positionable lights with LED lighting -Depth sounder with display STEERING: -Autohelm wind vane custom fit -Pedestal steering with new cables and Edson clamps -New 3-blade bronze propeller and new bronze shaft ANCHORING: -25 lb. CQR anchor -35 lb. CQR anchor -All-chain rode: 200 feet galvanized anchoring chain -Additional chain and rode -Brand-new never-used Mantus Anchor Bridle system -Cleats on bow and stern -Anchor roller on bow and stern -Teak bowsprit -Heavy-duty manual bronze windless PLUMBING: -Spartan Marine bronze thru-hulls with g10 fiberglass board backing plates -New manual pump head -New head plumbing configured 3 ways: head pump to holding tank, pump out through deck, or (when 3 miles out) head to overboard pump out or tank to overboard pump out -2 new 35-gallon water tanks (not plumbed, but clean) -2 bilge pumps: 1 auto with float switch and 1 manual, in cockpit) -Unused underwater intake (was for diesel engine; could be used for deck wash) SAILS AND RIGGING: -Masthead light for nighttime navigation -Side mount deck light -New custom African mahogany winch stands bolded thru deck (very strong) -Standing rigging in good shape (no snags or tears) -Non-self-tailing single speed winches -Telescoping deck-mounted whisker pole -Running rigging in good shape -Mainsail with cover in good shape -Yankee with deck jib bag in good shape -Staysail with cover in good shape -Drifter in good shape -130% genoa as an extra option (used with whisker pole) -All sails have sail bags -Dock lines in great shape -Misc. lines included ACCESSORIES: -Edson Marine Teak Fold-down Luncheon Table for cockpit -Saloon fold-down table -Pull-out settee for double berth -Expandable shelf on portside ("captain's berth") -Heavy duty teak leeboards for starboard settee and v-berth -Nesting sailing dinghy with sail, paddle, and centerboard -Dinghy teak rack over cabin (under boom) -West Marine aluminum oars -Froli sleep system in v-berth and starboard settee for comfort -Upholstered settee and v-berth cushions -Custom portlight curtains (not installed) -West Marine removable folding swim ladder -West Marine throwable cushions -Lalizas Life Link Man-Overboard Rescue System -4-pack life preservers -Boat hooks -Boat fenders -Cape Dory 30c sail plans -Previous owners notes -Sailing books -Extra bottom paint and gel coat
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31969) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Thursday, May 26, 2022

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

I decided on a battery configuration of 2 high by 6 wide. This should fit into a locally available waterproof case. 

I am 3d printing cell holders from PETG plastic. My printers footprint is not large enough to print it in one shot so I have designed a 2 piece part that can be bolted together with 1/4”x20 stainless steel bolts.

the batteries are being balanced charged as I post this. 


_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31964) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Sunday, May 22, 2022

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

[Edited Message Follows]

Had time this weekend to cut the bus bars after I drew up the cell holders I will 3d print. I went with 1” wide x .2” thick material milled out of 6061 plate I had on hand. I added drilled and tapped 8/32 holes for balance wires.


_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31963) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

Had time this weekend to cut the bus bars after I drew up the cell holders I will 3d print. I went with 1” wide x .2” thick material milled out of 6061 plate I had on hand.


_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31963) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Saturday, May 21, 2022

Re: [electricboats] I stink like stale gas!

1. Figure out what HP yields the speed you want to go. 

2. Multiply by .75 and this gives you the kW you’ll need to go that speed. 

3. Add about 20% and you now have an idea on the size of the electric motor(s). 

4. Next figure out the maximum amount of time you’ll cruise at the speed you’ve chosen. 

5. Assume you need a 8kW to motor at desired speed and you want to motor 3 hours maximum - you’ll use 24 kWh. 

6.  Your battery needs to bigger than 24kWh - let’s say 30kWh to be on the safe side. At 48v, this is is a 600AH battery. 


7. If you’re comfortable with electricity, you can buy 16 prismatic cells of 600AH each from China (Winston, CALB, Sinopoly) plus a BMS (battery management system) and assemble the LiFePO4 pack yourself. 


8. you’ll need charging - shore charger (Power Max or similar) - wind - solar. The latter 2 need controllers between the source and the battery. 


There are a variety of outboards available plus plenty of inboards. I like ThunderStruck-WV.com for the motor and accessories. Outboards such as Torqeedo are available from West Marine and other sources. 


Enjoy. 

_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31962) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Thursday, May 19, 2022

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

I found a question in the comments of that current-carrying-capacity-calculation website about the discrepancy I mention above.  Their answer cited Skin Effect, which (according to Wikipedia) only applies to AC current.  So for DC current, larger currents than their rule dictates should be usable.

Probably, they could improve their webpage by providing different rules for AC versus DC.
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31961) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

On Thu, May 19, 2022 at 04:43 PM, Skray775 wrote:
https://www.electrical4u.net/electrical/what-is-busbar-current-carrying-capacity-calculation-5-types-of-busbar/
Their rules seem to arrive at a lower number than I would use.  This chart:

https://www.electrical4u.net/electrical/what-is-busbar-current-carrying-capacity-calculation-5-types-of-busbar/

gives ~50mm2 for 0AWG, yet claims ~250A for chassis wiring and even ~150A for power transmission.  (Buss bars are definitely the first of those.)

So their rules result in a number, in this case, 4x too low.

Suffice it to say that there are a lot of factors going into current-carrying capacity.  Ambient temperature, insulation temperature rating, airflow, ... and of course the length of the conductor.  Sometime I'll instead use a voltage-drop calculator (when length is a big factor), and decide on wire gauge based on how much resistive loss I'm willing to accept.

I've even seen writeups on this question mention that the shape of the conductor makes a difference, even with the same cross-sectional area, due to different amount of surface area (where the heat transfer to the ambient air happens).

I'm confident that 1/4" x 3/4" Aluminum will easily handle 100 amps, as would 1" x 1/8" Aluminum.  So your 38mm x 6mm bars should be fine.
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31960) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

This web site showes a calculation of .8* width in mm * height in mm = the amp rating?
That indicates a 1.5" x .25" = approx 38mm x 6.3mm (i used 6mm) 182 amps. 

https://www.electrical4u.net/electrical/what-is-busbar-current-carrying-capacity-calculation-5-types-of-busbar/
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31959) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions


Aluminum, Flat Bar Stock, Thickness (Decimal) 0.25 in, Width and Length 4 in x 72 in


These bus bars can do 100 amps all day and not get warm to the touch. 

Pics on Instagram


Note the black "spacers" between the bus bars. This keeps the pressure off the cells and does not let them touch. The entire metal cell casing is positive. You need more than just the green plastic covering to keep the series cells from coming in contact with each other. 

Matt Foley

Sunlight Conversions 
1-201-914-0466
Sunlightconversions.com
Instagram:sunlightconversions
WeChat: Mattymoonshine




On May 19, 2022, at 2:19 AM, bobkart <couch45@msn.com> wrote:

"I have 6061 in various thicknesses in my shop."

Note: the alloy I referenced is 6101.  The 6061 you mention is much more common:

https://www.mcmaster.com/bars/material~6061-aluminum/

I'm sure it will conduct electricity acceptably well, but I do see maybe 30%-40% better conductivity for 6101:

https://www.makeitfrom.com/compare/6061-T6-Aluminum/6101-E-AlMgSi-91E-Aluminum

If you already have 6061 on hand, but would need to buy some 6101, it's probably not worth the conductivity difference, especially when you're going oversize anyway.  In my case I didn't have either on hand, so it made sense to get the one that conducted better (assuming similar price).

Wednesday, May 18, 2022

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions


There are my new cells (with outlet box for scale).  Getting ready to top-balance them.
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31956) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

Thanks Bob,
I have 6061 in various thicknesses in my shop. I’ll post back with what I make in a few days. 

www. Finescale360.com

i sell these aluminum train frames on the side for pocket cash. They are 6061.

_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31955) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] I stink like stale gas!

https://plugboats.com/

Welcome to the Revolution!
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31954) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

Sorry, these are the bars with nice rounded sides:

https://www.mcmaster.com/6101/material~6101-aluminum/width~3-4/

(Not that rounded sides are necessary.)  Aluminum 6101 is claimed by McMaster as 'Highly Conductive'.  I've used this McMaster part for buss bars in the past.

But 1/4" is the smallest thickness it comes in.  Overkill for just 100 amps.  In the 3/4" width it comes to 1.5x the cross-sectional area than my earlier suggestion.

The Aluminum 1100 material I used on the 10kWh battery in the video.  Had them built by eMachineShop (I have no access to CNC).
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31953) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

You can go thinner on the buss bars.  Even just 1/8" x 1" is 0.125 square inches, and equal in cross-sectional area to roughly 000 AWG (good for 300 amps in Copper).

But that's for Copper, and Aluminum is roughly 60% as conductive as Copper (depending on how it's alloyed).  Closer to pure Aluminum conducts better than heavily alloyed, so something like Aluminum 1100 works well in my experience:

https://www.mcmaster.com/1100-aluminum/material~1100-aluminum/thickness~1-8/width~1/

Those bars have nice rounded sides, and should be easier to machine than 7075.

I had some cell arrive too (yesterday) . . . sixteen 105Ah Gotion LFP (2.06kg/per cell).  Will make a 5.376kWh pack with them, as either a backup battery or combined with the main battery to get up to ~150 minutes of full-power run time.
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31951) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

I have to come up with buss bars. I have aluminum plate and a CNN mill so I was thinking of using some 7075 x .24” thick plate to make the bars.   Any recommendations on the width?  I am thinking 100 amp rating on the buss bars would be double the fuse rated at 50 amps. 
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31950) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] LifePo4 build questions

Batteries have arrived. Size relative to a small foamy R/C plane.  

_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31949) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Sunday, May 15, 2022

Re: [electricboats] I stink like stale gas!

Propane outboards pretty much solve the 'stale gas' problem.
Unfortunately they aren't made much past 5hp, now that Lehr has gone out of business.

I'm considering a propane outboard for my cat, for trips that won't fit the range of the electric outboard and battery.
Twin 5hp's could work out (and result in great redundancy), but those aren't made for remote control, so I'd have to get creative.

Another potential avenue would be to convert a gas model to propane.  I know there are kits for that,
but they usually only apply to carbureted motors, and most in the 20hp range are fuel injected these days.

I did find this company out of China, that has a range of propane outboards topping out at 20hp: https://www.goseatan.com/news/16.html
That could work for my application, but of course I'd prefer something more locally sourced. 
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31948) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] I stink like stale gas!

I should probably remove the motor and gas tank and add a small outboard.

I purchased the boat in 1997 and used to go to the river every weekend. The Potomac River is an hour away and I really enjoyed going but as time passed and I had children the trips became less frequent. I couldn't take the babies on the river and ended up fishing the local electric-only reservoirs more and more. They are only 10 minutes away. It's been 10 or 12 years now since going to the river and I have tried to keep the gas motor fresh but not having a place to run it makes that a bit challenging.   
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31947) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Re: [electricboats] Replacing FLA Batteries with Lithium in Duffy Electric Boat

Thanks for these details, Roland!

My Duffy is a 2010 M160, which was only produced by Duffy for two years.  It's sort of a pontoon or deck boat with an unusual hull in the shape of an "M".  Like yours, my 48V 5hp Duffy motor also pulls just under 60A at full throttle, but I generally cruise at a speed that pulls between 30A and 40A.  So, I'm thinking that a 150Ah battery should get me about 3 hours of cruising time with a 20% reserve, which is more than enough cruising time for the inland lake on which I live.  

My current lead acid batteries are installed under seats-----4 under one seat on the starboard side and 4 under another seat on the port side.  With a single 48V 150Ah battery, I'm planning to install it under the seat on the starboard side.  With that single battery, I'll be removing about 200kg from the boat.  The 48V charger is currently installed under the deck where it is very difficult to service, so I'm planning to move the charger to the under the starboard seat, where there is plenty of room.  

I've got the project planned out, so I'm just waiting for the battery I want to come back into stock within a couple of weeks.  In the meantime, my lead acid batteries are holding up okay after 5 years of service, but after an hour and a half cruise, they are below 50% DoD.   So, I don't have too much time left with them.

I had not considered installing 12V LifePO4 batteries in series because I was concerned about how that would work with individual BMS's.  However, based on your experience, I'd consider that if this 48V battery doesn't work out.  

Thanks again for the details, and I'm glad you are keeping that Duffy running!
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31946) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_

Saturday, May 14, 2022

Re: [electricboats] I stink like stale gas!

I have two engines and fuel systems with sour gas. After nearly 50 years I'm ready to convert. Where do I get on the train. 




On Saturday, May 14, 2022, 4:05 PM, Skray775 <kelly@skraye.com> wrote:

I wish I could replace my 150 HP 2 stoke with electric! 

I just spent 3 hours disassembling contaminated fuel components on my outboard, what a mess! I stink like sour gas and I am tempted to pull the outboard altogether! 

Re: [electricboats] I stink like stale gas!



From: electricboats@groups.io <electricboats@groups.io> on behalf of sw via groups.io <v1opps=yahoo.com@groups.io>
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2022 9:24 PM
To: electricboats@groups.io <electricboats@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [electricboats] I stink like stale gas!
 
Didn't someone now ha e180hp outboard now?

On Saturday, May 14, 2022, 04:05:38 PM PDT, Skray775 <kelly@skraye.com> wrote:


I wish I could replace my 150 HP 2 stoke with electric! 

I just spent 3 hours disassembling contaminated fuel components on my outboard, what a mess! I stink like sour gas and I am tempted to pull the outboard altogether! 

Re: [electricboats] I stink like stale gas!

Didn't someone now ha e180hp outboard now?

On Saturday, May 14, 2022, 04:05:38 PM PDT, Skray775 <kelly@skraye.com> wrote:


I wish I could replace my 150 HP 2 stoke with electric! 

I just spent 3 hours disassembling contaminated fuel components on my outboard, what a mess! I stink like sour gas and I am tempted to pull the outboard altogether! 

Re: [electricboats] I stink like stale gas!

Been there (decades ago), to the point of trying to syphon Av-gas out of a racing snowmobile and getting a mouthful of it (with two-cycle oil mixed in for good measure).

Unfortunately the alternatives are still quite expensive:

https://www.fluxmarine.com/product/70-hp

And that will only get you half the power you have now (but way more torque).  And the smallest battery it comes with will weigh at least 600 pounds, probably more like 800.
_._,_._,_

Groups.io Links:

You receive all messages sent to this group.

View/Reply Online (#31943) | Reply To Group | Reply To Sender | Mute This Topic | New Topic
Your Subscription | Contact Group Owner | Unsubscribe [newarmyguitar24@gmail.com]

_._,_._,_