Saturday, May 31, 2014

[Electric Boats] "puller" prop

 


> >It ran propeller end first,

Gosh, that could solve a problem or two for my "electric outboard
from scratch" design. I'm so used to seeing props behind, I'd never
have thought of it!

(That's if I ever find time to build it!)

Of course, it's always better if a skeg hits the rocks first.

Craig

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Re: [Electric Boats] What kit should I choose?

 

Indeed. And on days when the wind is strong enough to make it impractical, I will have to stay ashore.

Hopefully those days will be few.



On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 5:00 PM, Joe Siudzinski siudzinski@telis.org [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

> 1. To get my boat in and out of the marina (which could involve 3 km
> against the wind, as we are between two peninsulars).

As always, there are tradeoffs, as at some point windspeed overwhelms
even the most powerful of drive systems, which is why I consider the
zero-velocity driving force (bollard test) to be a significant
parameter for consideration. On my cat I had actually measured the
forward and reverse thrust while tied to the dock and also empirically
determined the maximum windspeed at which the boat would 'stall out'.
Above that windspeed I would simply drop the anchor and go to sleep
and wait until the wind abated. :-)

If you have to power straight upwind, then in your scenario you
perhaps need to figure out whether you can go the 3km against what
windspeed for a given battery capacity.

JoeS.




--


Where there is a shell, there is a way...

Dominic Amann
M 416-270-4587

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RE: [Electric Boats] Electric Goliath ASD Tug vs. Goliath Diesel Tug

 

Fischer Panda (in Germany) make a pod drive with Kortz nozzle.


Video is at;


Peter Robinson
P.O. Box 411
12 Buckland Drive
Mallacoota  Vic  3892
Australia

+61 (0)3 5158 0059
+61 (0)427 580 600

peter@mallacoota.com













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Re: [Electric Boats] Electric Goliath ASD Tug vs. Goliath Diesel Tug

 



Wow Hannu,
I read all your helpful thoughts, and composed a reply.  Saved it and thought about it again.  Then I got a glass of water and took a deep breath, and decided to try to articulate my words in complete sentences.
 
My first thought was something along the lines of, "Why did I get outta bed this mornin?"  Then I remembered that many folk do not experience the freedoms I enjoy here in the Ozarks.  I thought of the flag, American apple pie (or cherry or peach), and knowing I own my tools and I can make anything my little mind can imagine, I relaxed a bit. 
 
I am so very glad I only have to answer to the U.S. Coast Guard, the Missouri Water Patrol, and the true hearted customer that trusts me to do the very best work possible.  I am sure that if I were to export these things (if I can even make it work), I would be quickly stopped at the borders of the State, by every meddling Progressive Bureaucrat known to man, trying to tell me how hard and impossible it is to do what I would like to do.
 
I am so glad I am able to have the interaction on forums like this one with so many intelligent people with so much experience to draw upon.  I am so glad there are folk a lot like me out in this cyber world, as well as the "real world", that get up and do the impossible every day!  Shoot, look at the makers of the Bionic Dolphin.  I am so glad God allowed me to get the experience and education I have, to even think I could undertake such a bold adventure as building an 18.5' steel theme boat just to test a handful of theories.  Though not rich by any stretch of the imagination, If I fail to comply with one or two of those inspections, or surveys, or whatever, and loose my shirt in an $8,000 boat hull project, it will NOT have been my worst mistake nor my most expensive!
 
But now I am convinced I'm gonna do it, just to say I tried.  I keep remembering the first Cadillacs were actually made by Henry Ford!  Wow, that must really crank some folks.
 
Again, I reiterate how grateful I truly am to have cyber friends like I have discovered here.  I'm happy and I hope you all are happy too.
 
Hope youall have a prosperous and successful Summer.  I gots to go start a boat!
 
Enjoy All,
Aero_Dan
 
    
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2014 3:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Electric Goliath ASD Tug vs. Goliath Diesel Tug

 

Yes .. and no. Imho.

Nozzles etc will work fine.. if they are suitably matched to the desired
use.

For a *tug*, the desired size of the prop will be very large.
About double-triple in diameter, from that originally foreseen in the plans.
At THOSE sizes, I think it will work well, just like in normal tugs.

Underwates turbines, wind generators, towable regen, all have the same
effect.
The practical achievable results are weak, unless the surface area is large.

Third or fourth power of size, from memory.
The prop a tug needs, is very different from one desired for
recreational use.

An electric tug will likely work very well, technically.
However, you should plan for about 5x more battery capacitym fro 20
kWhr, with lion.
Somewhere in the 100 kWhr range.

If you have a tow, of 10x vessel mass, what you cannot have happen, is
lose control of it.
An extra 1-2 hours delay due to traffic, accidents, currents, official
government actions (police boats, etc) will sometimes happen.

Now you need to have use of the heavy thrust for an extended period of time.
You cannot stop, you cannot anchor (wont hold) and you cannot abandon
the tow (liability).

At a minimum, you should have full-tow capacity power, ie a diesel plant
able to deliver the required power, maybe 20-30 kW.
This is very much cheaper than the 100 kWhr lion batteries.
(A 30 kW commercial gensets can be had for 20k or so).

A tug is a commercial vessel.
It will need commercial permits, need to be inspected, and have plans
signed off by a naval architect.
Otherwise you will not be able to get insurance, or permits, that are
mandatory.

All sorts of regulations come into effect, and the net result is a great
increase in costs, re: permits.
Before building, the steel used must be submitted to the certifying
authority.
Welding will need to be inspected.
Its one (of many) requirements for commercial licensing.

You cannot home-build commercial vessels without the requirted
expertise, tools, and documented processes.
Some are onerous and not too expensive.
Some are quite expensive - like the naval architect.

At a minimum, you should plan on 50k for the permits alone.
You probably cannot use anything NOS, like from surplus center.
The naval architects and licensing authorities will likely not accept
these as confirming to the commercial regulations.
You will need commercial hatches, etc. These are expensive.
The genset will need to be meant for industrial use. Etc.

At 100k for batteries, 50 k for NA and permits and inspections and x-ray
of welds, 30k for continuous-duty genset, 50k (low end) for
commercial-rated wiring, tankage, hoses, plumbing etc. the project cost
may be getting too high ?
A commercial kort nozzle is about 30k, btw.

Now - you did mention a plan to commercialize these, and thus the
regulations are needed.
It totally changes the game.

If you build one for yourself, most of the above costs can be mitigated.
What you cannot do, is build it for yourself, and then sell it commercially.

Note liability attaches to the builder - that would be You in this case.
Unless the paperwork exists, you will likely not be able to get
insurance or sell the craft for commercial use.

At a minimum, consult a naval surveyor, with commercial vessel experience.
They will tell you more or less the same thing, at 3k$ / day.

Hope this is useful.

On 31/05/2014 01:39, dhennis@centurytel.net [electricboats] wrote:
>
> I also wondered if anybody reading these threads had any experience
> with a Kort nozzle on their EB (electric boat)? In my research, it
> would seem, that the addition of a Kort nozzle will increase
> efficiency in bollard pulls, as much as 30%. I suspect this will have
> a ripple effect to the battery life per charge, and the required
> throttle setting to achieve a desired setting.
>
>
> So what does anybody, (including Eric) think? Can I expect a 30% or
> less increase in the figures for power and duration?
>
>
> Thanks for all the help in advance.
>
>
> Aero_Dan
>

--
-hanermo (cnc designs)

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4592 / Virus Database: 3955/7594 - Release Date: 05/30/14

Respectfully,
Dan Hennis
;-)>

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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electric Goliath ASD Tug vs. Goliath Diesel Tug

 



Thanks John, I have been reading up on all the research from 1913, through 1930, and finally the research completed in 2002.  It all seems to say the same stuff with little difference except for foil cross-section design.  I am getting some help from some engineers specializing in this stuff.
Dan
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2014 4:41 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Electric Goliath ASD Tug vs. Goliath Diesel Tug

 

I tried four different nozzle set-ups on 30# Motorguide trolling motors.


I didn't test for bollard pull, but the one with the most promise provided noticeably stronger acceleration from a standstill than anything else I've tried and had a higher top speed than a factory prop. It was also quieter than anything I have tried, maybe because, once underway, it could run very shallow without cavitation.


It ran propeller end first, with the outflow from the nozzle flowing around a faired-out motor downshaft.  The nozzle outlet was attached to the downshaft at the top and to the ends of  a cross-fitting bolted through the skeg, the arrangement providing three-point mounting which was rather flimsy but good enough to test.


In order to provide the crushing force that urges the nozzle forward, and thus gives a thrust contribution from the nozzle body, flow velocity through the nozzle has to be higher than flow velocity along the outer surface of the nozzle.


The higher the inside velocity, the better.


So I think you'll get a better result with a relatively small diameter, high pitch prop (as compared to the prop you would use without the nozzle.)


At higher speed, drag (and the reduction in the velocity difference between the inside and the outside of the nozzle) start reducing the added thrust.  To reduce drag, both the inner and outer surfaces of the nozzle are going to perform better if curved (faired) rather than being frustoconical.


John Casperson



No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4592 / Virus Database: 3955/7598 - Release Date: 05/31/14

Respectfully,
Dan Hennis
;-)>

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[Electric Boats] Re: Electric Goliath ASD Tug vs. Goliath Diesel Tug

 

I tried four different nozzle set-ups on 30# Motorguide trolling motors.


I didn't test for bollard pull, but the one with the most promise provided noticeably stronger acceleration from a standstill than anything else I've tried and had a higher top speed than a factory prop. It was also quieter than anything I have tried, maybe because, once underway, it could run very shallow without cavitation.


It ran propeller end first, with the outflow from the nozzle flowing around a faired-out motor downshaft.  The nozzle outlet was attached to the downshaft at the top and to the ends of  a cross-fitting bolted through the skeg, the arrangement providing three-point mounting which was rather flimsy but good enough to test.


In order to provide the crushing force that urges the nozzle forward, and thus gives a thrust contribution from the nozzle body, flow velocity through the nozzle has to be higher than flow velocity along the outer surface of the nozzle.


The higher the inside velocity, the better.


So I think you'll get a better result with a relatively small diameter, high pitch prop (as compared to the prop you would use without the nozzle.)


At higher speed, drag (and the reduction in the velocity difference between the inside and the outside of the nozzle) start reducing the added thrust.  To reduce drag, both the inner and outer surfaces of the nozzle are going to perform better if curved (faired) rather than being frustoconical.


John Casperson



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Re: [Electric Boats] What kit should I choose?

 

> 1. To get my boat in and out of the marina (which could involve 3 km
> against the wind, as we are between two peninsulars).

As always, there are tradeoffs, as at some point windspeed overwhelms
even the most powerful of drive systems, which is why I consider the
zero-velocity driving force (bollard test) to be a significant
parameter for consideration. On my cat I had actually measured the
forward and reverse thrust while tied to the dock and also empirically
determined the maximum windspeed at which the boat would 'stall out'.
Above that windspeed I would simply drop the anchor and go to sleep
and wait until the wind abated. :-)

If you have to power straight upwind, then in your scenario you
perhaps need to figure out whether you can go the 3km against what
windspeed for a given battery capacity.

JoeS.

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Posted by: Joe Siudzinski <siudzinski@telis.org>
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Re: [Electric Boats] 50 HP diesel VS electric

 

Eric,
Ran the information through my model also.  I used 80% maximum DOD which is the only difference.  I concur that a 10kW is all that is needed.  If you are actually looking at using the vessel as a tug, than a bigger propeller would be more important and then the more powerful 20kW would also be appropriate. 

To your point about evaluating the way we run our boats, 70% of hull speed is right where electric boat should live.  If you run at 95% of hull speed you should not have an electric boat or a displacement boat.  If you want to go faster with a displacement boat, get one with a longer waterline.  The rule of thumb that you double the power used for every knot you increase the speed is fairly accurate.

This is what I came up with which matching the weight of the three battery banks.  Very close to your data:

Range

80%

DOD








Flooded



AGM



LiFePo4



250

ah


200

ah


400

ah

Kts

Hrs

Nm


Hrs

Nm


Hrs

Nm

2.8

21.9

60.8


16.5

45.9


34.2

94.9

3.5

9.3

32.4


7.6

26.6


16.5

57.7

4.4

3.9

17.3


3.5

15.4


8.0

35.1

5.0

2.4

12.0


2.2

11.2


5.2

26.3

5.6

1.7

9.2


1.6

8.9


3.8

21.4

6.0

1.3

7.5


1.3

7.5


3.0

18.2

*DOD = Depth of Discharge







 

Mike

Electric Yachts of Southern California
































































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Re: [Electric Boats] Electric Goliath ASD Tug vs. Goliath Diesel Tug

 

You should talk to Tom MacNaughton (macnaughtongroup.com). He could certainly provide you valuable advice in these areas and point you to other competent resources. At the least, you'll walk away with a better perspective of your project.

Cheers,

/Jason

On May 31, 2014, at 4:19, "Hannu Venermo gcode.fi@gmail.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Yes .. and no. Imho.

Nozzles etc will work fine.. if they are suitably matched to the desired
use.

For a *tug*, the desired size of the prop will be very large.
About double-triple in diameter, from that originally foreseen in the plans.
At THOSE sizes, I think it will work well, just like in normal tugs.

Underwates turbines, wind generators, towable regen, all have the same
effect.
The practical achievable results are weak, unless the surface area is large.

Third or fourth power of size, from memory.
The prop a tug needs, is very different from one desired for
recreational use.

An electric tug will likely work very well, technically.
However, you should plan for about 5x more battery capacitym fro 20
kWhr, with lion.
Somewhere in the 100 kWhr range.

If you have a tow, of 10x vessel mass, what you cannot have happen, is
lose control of it.
An extra 1-2 hours delay due to traffic, accidents, currents, official
government actions (police boats, etc) will sometimes happen.

Now you need to have use of the heavy thrust for an extended period of time.
You cannot stop, you cannot anchor (wont hold) and you cannot abandon
the tow (liability).

At a minimum, you should have full-tow capacity power, ie a diesel plant
able to deliver the required power, maybe 20-30 kW.
This is very much cheaper than the 100 kWhr lion batteries.
(A 30 kW commercial gensets can be had for 20k or so).

A tug is a commercial vessel.
It will need commercial permits, need to be inspected, and have plans
signed off by a naval architect.
Otherwise you will not be able to get insurance, or permits, that are
mandatory.

All sorts of regulations come into effect, and the net result is a great
increase in costs, re: permits.
Before building, the steel used must be submitted to the certifying
authority.
Welding will need to be inspected.
Its one (of many) requirements for commercial licensing.

You cannot home-build commercial vessels without the requirted
expertise, tools, and documented processes.
Some are onerous and not too expensive.
Some are quite expensive - like the naval architect.

At a minimum, you should plan on 50k for the permits alone.
You probably cannot use anything NOS, like from surplus center.
The naval architects and licensing authorities will likely not accept
these as confirming to the commercial regulations.
You will need commercial hatches, etc. These are expensive.
The genset will need to be meant for industrial use. Etc.

At 100k for batteries, 50 k for NA and permits and inspections and x-ray
of welds, 30k for continuous-duty genset, 50k (low end) for
commercial-rated wiring, tankage, hoses, plumbing etc. the project cost
may be getting too high ?
A commercial kort nozzle is about 30k, btw.

Now - you did mention a plan to commercialize these, and thus the
regulations are needed.
It totally changes the game.

If you build one for yourself, most of the above costs can be mitigated.
What you cannot do, is build it for yourself, and then sell it commercially.

Note liability attaches to the builder - that would be You in this case.
Unless the paperwork exists, you will likely not be able to get
insurance or sell the craft for commercial use.

At a minimum, consult a naval surveyor, with commercial vessel experience.
They will tell you more or less the same thing, at 3k$ / day.

Hope this is useful.

On 31/05/2014 01:39, dhennis@centurytel.net [electricboats] wrote:
>
> I also wondered if anybody reading these threads had any experience
> with a Kort nozzle on their EB (electric boat)? In my research, it
> would seem, that the addition of a Kort nozzle will increase
> efficiency in bollard pulls, as much as 30%. I suspect this will have
> a ripple effect to the battery life per charge, and the required
> throttle setting to achieve a desired setting.
>
>
> So what does anybody, (including Eric) think? Can I expect a 30% or
> less increase in the figures for power and duration?
>
>
> Thanks for all the help in advance.
>
>
> Aero_Dan
>

--
-hanermo (cnc designs)

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Posted by: Jason Taylor <jt.yahoo@jtaylor.ca>
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