Friday, October 28, 2016

Re: [Electric Boats] Cheap Sinewave BLDC Controllers

 

Well, yeah, for an inverter I definitely see your point. Especially with RF sensitive electronics running off the inverter, or the flourescents. These controllers I am talking about just handle the propulsion motor, and the BLDC motors are pretty bulletproof. They do make a little bit of a growl though, and it is generally felt that though they are WAY quieter than the quietest infernal combustion engine, electrics should be still quieter. The square wave motor controllers are adequate, no matter what anybody says. I just think, like many others, that pure sine wave has some advantages, one of which is (probably) a quieter running motor. It seems worth the cost to find out once and for all.

I do have a square wave inverter for 110v loads, and my laptop runs just fine on it. I also have a smaller sine wave inverter. I do notice the difference in audio or radio equipment, even with my "Redneck Choke" (wire wound around a 16d nail) in series, and I definitely have a 1 kw pure sine invertter  on my list of things to get some day, but the issue is not a pressing one at the moment. I am almost positive, now that I think about it, that my main shore power fed battery charger is PWM square wave. I actually don't notice any difference when I turn it off. It normally stays on float, keeping the Sams golf cart batteries topped up. The batteries apparently swallow the garbage from the charger quite well.

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Re: [Electric Boats] Cheap Sinewave BLDC Controllers

 

Hi King,
Here is my two bits worth...  I am not sure how you lasted this long with a square wave.  In my years of alternative hole building, that was the FIRST thing I replaced. We at the Idaho DWR started with an inexpensive automotive type S/W inverter.  We noticed the Fluorescents and their ballasts buzzed terribly.  It was unnerving to walk into a house with the buzzing of lights, and the growling of motors in the furnace, A/C, kitchen appliances, etc.  We quickly opted to pay the big money for the pure sign wave tech.  The result was nothing less than dramatic.  We were then able to run sensitive electronics like, ... a computer, without burning out the power supply.  I think you will be amazed at the difference.  That was my experience for what it is worth.
Dan H.
 
 
Sent: Friday, October 28, 2016 6:39 AM
Subject: [Electric Boats] Cheap Sinewave BLDC Controllers
 
 

I was just looking at the kellycontroller.com website because I am thinking about buying a sine wave controller to experiment with. Currently I am using one of their square wave controllers with a ME0201014201 5kw motor and we have discussed motor noise on this forum in the past, so I intend to take one for the team, pony up and buy a presumably quieter sine wave controller for comparing noise levels and possibly extending motor life.

Kelly used to only sell square wave controllers, but now they have an extensive lineup of sinewave BLDC controllers. I just thought I would mention, for the benefit of those with limited funds for repowering, that some of their new sine wave controllers are VERY cheap. For instance, http://kellycontroller.com/kls7230s24v-72v300asinusoidal-brushless-motor-controller-p-1343.html, KLS7230S,24V-72V,300A,Sinusoidal Brushless Motor Controller rated for 120A continuous, for $209.00. It looks a little light to me and would definitely need a heat sink at higher power levels, but it would work okay for the 5kw motors that so many of us use, I think. And in fact, many e-boaters seldom use more than 20 or 30A at 48V, so how about this one: http://kellycontroller.com/kls4812s24v-48v120asinusoidal-brushless-motor-controller-p-1347.html, 50A continuous, for $149.00. Can't get much cheaper than that, and it's sine wave BLDC. I will be using something with a bit more power available, for my own eboat, though, to keep upgrade options open, and for better heat dissapation. They have units up to 144v at 500a peak so I am sure I can pick one out that will satisfy me LOL

I have no financial interest and I hope this is not regarded as spam. Apologies if it is taken that way...  I just thought the info might be useful to some of the new guys trying to cobble something together on the cheap.

Oh and these controllers are user configurable, with serial to usb cable and a WinDOHs computer. I am thinking a $375 ME0201014201 motor with the $149 controller, FLA batteries, trailer axle thrust bearing and homebrew belt reduction drive for one very inexpensive setup for an under 30' boat. Or even direct drive through a thrust bearing, with a typical folding sailboat prop. It could be just the thing to get some poor working guys on the water in eboats instead of just daydreaming about it. Nothing high performance at all about that setup, but it would work, and cost less than a new 4hp outboard.

Comments? Don't worry I got my flame proof drawers on, so fire away.


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Posted by: "Dan Hennis" <dhennis@centurytel.net>
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[Electric Boats] Cheap Sinewave BLDC Controllers

 

I was just looking at the kellycontroller.com website because I am thinking about buying a sine wave controller to experiment with. Currently I am using one of their square wave controllers with a ME0201014201 5kw motor and we have discussed motor noise on this forum in the past, so I intend to take one for the team, pony up and buy a presumably quieter sine wave controller for comparing noise levels and possibly extending motor life.

Kelly used to only sell square wave controllers, but now they have an extensive lineup of sinewave BLDC controllers. I just thought I would mention, for the benefit of those with limited funds for repowering, that some of their new sine wave controllers are VERY cheap. For instance, http://kellycontroller.com/kls7230s24v-72v300asinusoidal-brushless-motor-controller-p-1343.html, KLS7230S,24V-72V,300A,Sinusoidal Brushless Motor Controller rated for 120A continuous, for $209.00. It looks a little light to me and would definitely need a heat sink at higher power levels, but it would work okay for the 5kw motors that so many of us use, I think. And in fact, many e-boaters seldom use more than 20 or 30A at 48V, so how about this one: http://kellycontroller.com/kls4812s24v-48v120asinusoidal-brushless-motor-controller-p-1347.html, 50A continuous, for $149.00. Can't get much cheaper than that, and it's sine wave BLDC. I will be using something with a bit more power available, for my own eboat, though, to keep upgrade options open, and for better heat dissapation. They have units up to 144v at 500a peak so I am sure I can pick one out that will satisfy me LOL

I have no financial interest and I hope this is not regarded as spam. Apologies if it is taken that way...  I just thought the info might be useful to some of the new guys trying to cobble something together on the cheap.

Oh and these controllers are user configurable, with serial to usb cable and a WinDOHs computer. I am thinking a $375 ME0201014201 motor with the $149 controller, FLA batteries, trailer axle thrust bearing and homebrew belt reduction drive for one very inexpensive setup for an under 30' boat. Or even direct drive through a thrust bearing, with a typical folding sailboat prop. It could be just the thing to get some poor working guys on the water in eboats instead of just daydreaming about it. Nothing high performance at all about that setup, but it would work, and cost less than a new 4hp outboard.

Comments? Don't worry I got my flame proof drawers on, so fire away.


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Thursday, October 27, 2016

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: When things fail away from home - the need for remote CANbus support.

 

I opened the boxes for my thunderstruck 10 kW kit yesterday. Modifying brackets for reduction gear today. Trying for installation by this weekend. All good


From: moriartybob@yahoo.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>;
To: <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: When things fail away from home - the need for remote CANbus support.
Sent: Thu, Oct 27, 2016 1:34:38 AM

 

Jason, thanks for the thoughtful post.
Might I suggest...  when it fails, raise the sails.  :-)

I don't yet have too many miles on my sailboat with its year-old auxiliary electric propulsion.
My only real shakedown cruise was aborted after a day because of an overheating motor controller. No components failed and needed replacement. I just had to do some better thermal management.

There are a number of "black boxes" in my installation, e.g. a Sevcon4 controller, a pair of 48V -> 12V converters, a shunt, a contactor, a DC distribution box, a Midnite Solar controller, some networked "smart" battery chargers and a few other components, But I like to think that these are all non-mechanical and not prone to failure. Could be wrong. Time will tell.

I think I now know enough to identify a component failure in my system (and maybe even work around it). Could be wrong about this, too.

When/if I embark upon some coastal cruising in a year or so, I'll be counting on my electric propulsion to get me off the dock, help propel me out of the way of approaching freighters, and to use up, via electro-sailing,
some of the electrons that the solar panels put in the battery bank.
 
Cheers,

--Bob M

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Wednesday, October 26, 2016

[Electric Boats] Re: When things fail away from home - the need for remote CANbus support.

 

Jason, thanks for the thoughtful post.
Might I suggest...  when it fails, raise the sails.  :-)

I don't yet have too many miles on my sailboat with its year-old auxiliary electric propulsion.
My only real shakedown cruise was aborted after a day because of an overheating motor controller. No components failed and needed replacement. I just had to do some better thermal management.

There are a number of "black boxes" in my installation, e.g. a Sevcon4 controller, a pair of 48V -> 12V converters, a shunt, a contactor, a DC distribution box, a Midnite Solar controller, some networked "smart" battery chargers and a few other components, But I like to think that these are all non-mechanical and not prone to failure. Could be wrong. Time will tell.

I think I now know enough to identify a component failure in my system (and maybe even work around it). Could be wrong about this, too.

When/if I embark upon some coastal cruising in a year or so, I'll be counting on my electric propulsion to get me off the dock, help propel me out of the way of approaching freighters, and to use up, via electro-sailing,
some of the electrons that the solar panels put in the battery bank.
 
Cheers,

--Bob M

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Monday, October 24, 2016

[Electric Boats] Re: grounding

 

A somewhat confusing aspect of "grounding" is that it is used in two different ways:  'safety ground' and 'electrical noise ground'. 

'Safety ground' is is used to prevent adjacent electrical surfaces from having different potentials in order to prevent electrical shock from hurting us.  For instance, in your home an electric range's metal surfaces and the nearby water tap are tied together so that in case of an electrical fault in the range (typically 230 volts) when you touch both you won't get electrocuted. 

In electric boats the ABYC Technical Information Report TE-30 Electric Propulsion Systems is the same,  preventing, say, the motor and shaft etc from being at a different potential in case of a motor/controller fault.  Depending on conditions (dampness/sweat) your skin resistance can be low enough that 50+ volts can do some harm. 

In 'electrical noise ground' all of the components within a system have a common point electrically so that any impressed electrical noise (typically high frequency like used in motor control) is dissipated across the entire system rendering it ineffective.  Typically 'electrical noise ground' is the negative buss as most electronics are referenced to that point. 

Being curious, I checked my controller (Kelly).  The battery negative and signal returns are common but the aluminium case is not connected to them.  So it can be installed in compliance with the ABYC guideline.

John A.

--
Flatwater Electronics
www.flatwaterfarm.com
"Neurosurgery for computer looms."

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Re: [Electric Boats] When things fail away from home - the need for remote CANbus support.

 

Always good to look at what if scenarios. I certainly did a lot of thinking about this when I first started to consider dumping the diesel engine and moving to Electric Propulsion. As far as my season being cancelled because of the issues I had this summer. It was a personal decision to scrub things.

 I had eight seasons of relatively zero maintenance and trouble free operation with my Thoosa 9000 system. I was aiming for getting at least ten years out of my 4A8D battery bank. I think I could have made it except  for the one bad battery that went south just a week before I launched this year. I decided to replace the whole bank even though the three remaining good batteries where still holding up well.  It only took a week to have them delivered but, undetected shipping damage of two of the replacements caused a further delay in installing them as I waited for the two undamaged replacements to arrive.

I found the controller failure as I turned the key to leave the dock after installing the replacement batteries.
Again eight years of trouble free operation was a pretty good streak. After contacting Dave at Annapolis Hybrid he said they were no longer using that controller because they had a few unexplained failures like mine. But the new controller they use would not fit into the same box on board since it was larger and more robust. He gave me several options to either replace the controller box or use another new smaller controller that's used for the Thoosa 7000 system which would fit into my boats box. Of course I do have a third option which was to just replace the current controller with a replacement too. But, the out of the blue failure gives me pause to go that route. 

Dave had all the parts to deliver a new controller which would probably take about a week. It was getting to be late in the season and I was going to be away from the boat for a number of weeks this year. Plus it's hot working down below in the summer heat. :)  I decided to hold off until the boat was on land before I decide which way to go. It was my decision not to rush to repair things but, I suspect in two weeks I would have been up and running again. Had I chose to do so.

As far as battery charger I did buy a spare Zivan  NG-1 which has never been used despite heavy usage of the original charger for things like extended electro sailing. I also have a Dual Pro 4 that can also serve as a backup charger anytime.

When I went looking for a system I liked that the Thoosa 9000 used an off the shelf LEMCO motor but, that too has been very reliable and easy to maintain as it's a brushed system. I'm still glad I went with AGM batteries in that my hunch that they could be replaced fairly fast has been borne out by my experience this summer. I am still sold on EP IMO still much more reliable and trouble free than the old diesel it replaced. 

Mike
BIANKA
http://biankblog.blogspot.com

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Posted by: Mike <biankablog@verizon.net>
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Re: [Electric Boats] grounding

 

Most interesting. I always thought that the battery negative should be grounded. Thanks for posting that.

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Re: [Electric Boats] When things fail away from home - the need for remote CANbus support.

 

You won't lose much range by going with brushed motors, if at all. Changing brushes is really the only extra maintenance, and you might easily go 10 years before they need to be changed. The real issue with brushed motors is you can't have gasoline or propane accessories aboard. And in fact you would also probably want to be aware of the remote possibility of a hydrogen explosion though actually being lighter than air, it won't accumulate in your bilges like the other stuff.

If I were doing it all over again, I would probably give a strong second look at brushed motors, because of the simplicity and low cost of the "dumb" PWM controllers on fleabay, and the low cost of used forklift and golf cart motors. And if you don't keep a spare $60 Chinese controller handy and the one you got starts leaking smoke, you can get to your slip by jumping from an appropriate voltage point in your battery bank. Can't do that with BLDC, no.

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[Electric Boats] Re: When things fail away from home - the need for remote CANbus support.

 

Nice post, Jason. Like you, I decided to go electric in no small part because of the dependability, low maintenance and ease of service. Well, also because frankly I was about $5k short of being able to afford a new Beta diesel. And because I finally decided that as a matter of fact, I do NOT like the smell of fuel all that much, after all.

My Kelly controllers (I have a 300A and a 500A) are both user programmable by means of a WinDOHs computer and a serial to usb adapter. Unfortunately I don't have a Windoze computer... I use Linux, but if I want to go through the hassle of borrowing one, I can easily change parameters. I do, in fact, have a spare motor. At only $375/ea, it made perfect sense to get two of them, so I did. I also have another bigger motor that I can swap out easily. I have two controllers because when I destroyed the outout power MOSfets in the original 300A controller, I took the opportunity to upgrade to a bigger one and also returned the old one to the factory for warranty covered repair, so the old one is my backup. I see no particular reason not to have a spare motor and controller, whether the system be BLDC or brushed DC. Now the batteries is a different thing. I am using 8 6V golf cart batteries. If one or even two were to suddenly go north on me, I could easily configure the system to run at 42V or 36V temporarily. The motor RPM range would be lower, but that's okay in a pinch.

I like your idea of using identical batteries for house and propulsion, actually. I don't have a separate house bank anymore... I run house loads off the prop bank using a DC/DC converter. But if I did, you can bet I would be using the same GC2 golf cart batts for the 12v system just so I could use one to replace a bad propulsion battery in a pinch.

The user configurationability of the Kelly controllers is the main reason I went with that company, BTW. I installed the 220AH golf cart batteries instead of Lithium because they were $85/ea and I couldn't afford LiFePO4 which I admit are superior to FLA in so many ways.

So, while you prefer not to carry spare controller and motor, I prefer to do so. Great minds don't HAVE to think alike, if they don't want to. But there is another option, for boats in our size range... a 36V trolling motor and a cheap PWM controller if the motor is not already PWM controlled. You won't motor across the gulf stream to the Bahamas with that, but it will generally be enough for docking and stuff. Stows in the lazarette of most sailboats just fine. The dirty little secret is that a 36V trolling motor can be ran from a 48v bank as long as you don't go full ahead with the controller power pot for very long. So there is your reasonably cheap and convenient backup plan for the regular electric drive. Sort of like the diesel guys keeping that 4HP outboard handy, just in case. The trolling motor could come in handy in the event of a badly fouled or bent prop. It could be used for the dinghy, with a 20AH ebike battery pack, or lent to another boat in need. With a bow mount, you could have a bow thruster!

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Re: [Electric Boats] When things fail away from home - the need for remote CANbus support.

 

Mike aboard Bianka this summer had a controller issue. His setup is not
brushless.
Both brushed and brushless motors are going to have some kind of
controller.
Yes, brushed motors *can* operate right off of battery voltage. But
with no motor control.
Let's assume that I had a brushed setup and my controller blew while I
was far from my home port, but still not far from civilization.

No motor control on a battery-connected brushed motor means just that.
You've got to have big knife-switches reminiscent of Frankenstein's lab.
You may be using your key-switch to pulse your motor on and off.
You have no reverse. So coming in to that anchorage will be
interesting.
Personally, I would rather sail in.

A dead brushed controller would still prevent me from leaving my slip.
A massive network of series/parallel contactors for speed control and
reverse would make for a fairly complex throttle setup. Custom work to
be sure.
Not so simple. It would actually be cheaper in the end to carry a spare
controller.

For my brushless setup, my motor is the ME0913. About $850.
My controller is the Sevcon Gen4 275A (small) model. Probably about the
same price.
I am less concerned with the unit price as I am in the immediate
availability.
If I can just order a replacement controller from any forklift shop (or
have my vendor drop-ship it to me) and get my vendor to update the
firmware on it once I install it in my boat, everything is great.
If I have to wait for my vendor to order a controller, program it and
then ship it to me, that is lost time. On my 6-month sailing season, so
lost time means wasted money.

My opinion is worth what you've paid for it.

/Jason

On 2016-10-24 13:34, 'PISQUE1969 .' surv69@gmail.com [electricboats]
wrote:
> can't things be cobbled together with a permanent magnet motor and
> forget the programmed controller?
>
> It seems that most all the problems with the brushless motors is
> controller issues.
>
> Give me pure simplicity ... even at the cost of some range ...
>
> On Mon, Oct 24, 2016 at 10:51 AM, GNHBus@aol.com [electricboats]
> <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Good for You Jason, you "hit the Nail on the Head" .
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Jason Taylor jt.yahoo@jtaylor.ca [electricboats]
>> <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
>> To: electricboats <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Mon, Oct 24, 2016 10:08 am
>> Subject: [Electric Boats] When things fail away from home - the need
>> for remote CANbus support.
>>
>> This post turned out longer than I had initially thought. It's
>> basically just some musings on the reliability of electric
>> propulsion
>> systems and how to keep going when "something fails". Mike on Bianca
>>
>> recently lost a season due to issues with a battery and his
>> controller.
>> Some (not electric) boats at my yacht club recently lost valuable
>> sailing time due to engine issues. I had an issue with water finding
>>
>> its was to my battery. I have even had a minor issue with the
>> key-start
>> (water again). My issues were quickly and easily resolved, but it
>> got
>> me thinking...
>>
>> One of the features which drew me towards electric was the ease with
>>
>> which individual components can be replaced compared to diesel. But
>> judging from some recent component failures I have 1st and 2nd-hand
>> experience of, I don't think that's quite the case. Both
>> technologies
>> are fraught with expensive, hard to find parts, requiring sourcing
>> from
>> the vendor. I still wouldn't go back to diesel, but these past
>> couple
>> of years have opened my eyes somewhat.
>>
>> How would you compare season-debilitating problems you have suffered
>> (or
>> could suffer) to a diesel boat? We had two boats at our club have
>> engine troubles mid-season. One actually had to replace his engine
>> (he
>> followed his mechanic's advice and did not go electric) and the
>> other
>> had a fuel pump fail towards the end of the season. Yes, around
>> these
>> partrs, end of October is pretty much end of the sailing season. It
>> makes me sad, but it just means boating has a more project and
>> maintenance oriented aspect.
>>
>> The boat that replaced their engine was out for about 9 weeks (mid
>> July
>> to end of September).
>> The boat with the failed fuel pump was out for about a month.
>> Both boats suffered delays from parts and mechanic availability.
>>
>> I have been thinking about this a lot as regards my boat's electric
>> propulsion setup. What are the parts that could really play havoc my
>>
>> season? How could I get back on the water as quickly as possible?
>> Personally, I am not about to stow a spare motor, controller,
>> charger,
>> and battery for those "just in case" situations. That's a lot of
>> capital tied up in contingency. But how can I salvage a holiday (or
>> even the entire season) if any one of those fail?
>>
>> Battery:
>> I think the most difficult part to replace is a Lithium cell.
>> Because
>> they have a shelf-life, and lithium prices have fluctuated recently,
>>
>> nobody stocks them which means that any replacement would have to
>> come
>> directly from China. I can probably get around this issue by have a
>> house-bank made up of 4 identical cells. Should a propulsion bank
>> cell
>> fail, I could scavenge from the house bank and short-term replace
>> the
>> house bank with a wet-lead deep cycle from Sams or Costco.
>>
>> Motor & Controller:
>> Since the motor is brushless, it relies on the controller to
>> operate.
>> Being brushless, there is very little that can go wrong with the
>> motor
>> itself. No contacts to wear out or short. So long as it isn't given
>> an
>> over-current situation and is kept reasonably cool, it should
>> outlast
>> most of the boat. To get the most out of the motor, the controller
>> needs to know everything about the motor and how it should be used.
>> I
>> can't just swap out a dead controller for another one. Not even a
>> same
>> make/model one. It needs to have the vendor-supplied motor profile
>> installed. This makes me reliant on my vendor exclusively for
>> controller issues. I either find a way for the vendor to do remote
>> config support on a new controller or I ship it to him and wait. I
>> am
>> convinced that a RaspberryPi (tiny, low-power computer) with a
>> CANbus
>> controller would be perfect for a vendor to do onsite support of the
>>
>> motor controller from their location. If anything, they could
>> overnight-express ship a module to the customer and guide them in
>> connecting it and then upload the new firmware remotely. It's a
>> matter
>> of time before all the vendors do this, or just build it into the
>> installed system directly for telemetry.
>>
>> Charger:
>> The charger is pretty much a non-issue. My charger has profiles for
>> lithium packs from 8 to 18 cells. My pack is 16 cells. So if I lose
>> a
>> cell or two, I can still charge the pack properly. However, with my
>> Battery Management System in place, any plain old constant current /
>>
>> constant voltage power supply would work just fine, so long as the
>> BMS
>> can control it, which it can via a solid state relay on the
>> charger's AC
>> supply.
>>
>> So, my critical components are a 100ah lithium cell and a programmed
>>
>> motor controller. Everything else is just hardware that can be
>> cobbled
>> together from any electronic parts store or West Marine. Since spare
>>
>> cells can be carried on board by way of a small house bank, that
>> leaves
>> just the controller and its programming as the critical path.
>>
>> In closing, as a quick plea to all the vendors out there, any chance
>> we
>> can home on on this remote CANbus management idea? It really would
>> be a
>> boon to the e-boating industry as a whole if one vendor can provide
>> hardware for another vendor's system, and then allow the individual
>> vendors to support their customers remotely. The Raspberry Pi with a
>>
>> CAN controller would also allow for system telemetry to be sent to
>> the
>> vendor for ongoing profiling and customer support. This is also
>> something that is available for larger diesels and is certainly
>> going to
>> be an option for new installs on smaller ones as well. A massive
>> data
>> set of engine performance would also do wonders for our field.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> /Jason
>> --

--
Jason Taylor
--
S/V Fugu
1978 Beneteau First 30
Electroprop PM-20

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Posted by: Jason Taylor <jt.yahoo@jtaylor.ca>
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