Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Re: [Electric Boats] Moving a Hobo

 

Sounds like a fun project.
 
You are not going to get 5 knots out of any Minkota, Motor Guide or Cheap Chinese brand Trolling Motor because no matter what the thrust in pounds, the prop pitch (4") and the top end RMPs (About 1500) is designed for trolling speed, not primary propulsion speeds (Hull speeds)  There are electric outboards that will produce speeds you are looking for but the price goes up exponentially as does the power consumption.
 
Remember, 1 hp of power is about 720 watts, so your nominal 150 Watt generation capacity is only about 1/5 hp.  you will collect a lot less than those rated watts during most of the day.
 
Given the usual inefficiencies of solar incidence, power transmission, storage loss and prop slippage, a canoe paddle will outpace the solar panel array if you try direct dive.  Your motor will come to a dead stop when the sun goes behind a cloud or the shade of a tree.   (Direct drive off a solar panel will work, but physics is always getting in the way of fun).   
 
In reality, your cruising range will be limited to the capacity of your battery bank.
 
Your solar panels 150 watts, will charge a battery bank OK over time,  So if you leave it charging all week, you can joyfully scoot around the lake on the weekend for a few hours. 
 
I would suggest you double your solar collection to 300 watts, get a couple of 200 Amp Hour six volt forklift batteries wired in series with a 30 amp charge controller for 12 volts, buy a cheap Endura C2 50 pound thrust motor, get a Kipawa after market prop for the thing, wire it together with six gauge marine cable and appropriate fuses, let it charge a full sunny day for every three hours you drive it and never get more than 1.5 hours (5 miles) away from the dock and you will be fine. 
 
A 50 lb thrust Endura C2 (40 amp, 12 volt motor draws 450 – 600 watts) could push you along at 3.5 mph (3 knots)  in calm water on a calm day.  Which, if you leave your GPS enabled speed indicator "off" will make you happy with the quiet and peaceful pace.
 
It will struggle with a head wind over 15 mph so make sure you have a small gas kicker on board to get you back to port if the weather goes south. 
 
Good Luck and get out on the water!
 
Ken Cooke
Kentucky River
 
 
 
Sent: Wednesday, August 31, 2016 5:49 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] Moving a Hobo [1 Attachment]
 
 

I have a 40 year old Hobo project boat that didn't come with an outboard.
I really want to power it with electric and would like some recommendations on
what model trolling motor(s) from Minkota I should consider using. Pounds of thrust and battery recommendations etc.
I already have 2x75 watt solar panels that should fit nicely on the roof.
Would like to have a simple stock system as I get bleary-eyed when going over much of the info on this site.
The boat weighs in at 1,800 lbs empty and my need-for-speed is quite modest, looking at about 5knots or so. It will mostly be used, for now on a freshwater lake that is about 10 long with about 1,100 islands so never far from shore and never very rough as found on bigger bodies of water.

Thoughts and suggestions most welcome.

Regards, Doug




 


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[Electric Boats] Moving a Hobo [1 Attachment]

 
[Attachment(s) from signcord@yahoo.com [electricboats] included below]

I have a 40 year old Hobo project boat that didn't come with an outboard.
I really want to power it with electric and would like some recommendations on
what model trolling motor(s) from Minkota I should consider using. Pounds of thrust and battery recommendations etc.
I already have 2x75 watt solar panels that should fit nicely on the roof.
Would like to have a simple stock system as I get bleary-eyed when going over much of the info on this site.
The boat weighs in at 1,800 lbs empty and my need-for-speed is quite modest, looking at about 5knots or so. It will mostly be used, for now on a freshwater lake that is about 10 long with about 1,100 islands so never far from shore and never very rough as found on bigger bodies of water.

Thoughts and suggestions most welcome.

Regards, Doug




 


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[Electric Boats] Re: Okay, planning my solar charging installation.

 

As I have already stated, the storage is 48v. It is the propulsion bank of my boat. 220ah FLA, already installed and running for 3 years now. I am NOT planning to use 100w panels, precisely because 300w to 335w panels are more efficient and cost effective. Yes, I know about series/parallel. All I want to know is whether or not nominal 37VOC panels wired in series of 3, could possibly exceed 150VOC under ideal conditions, which would fry the controller. Only two such panels in series is only 74VOC. That would charge my bank but higher voltage would be better especially under marginal conditions.

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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Okay, planning my solar charging installation.

 

And, as I said, You Real, Really, REALLY want to use higher voltages.

This is extremely obvious on dynamic stuff using DC, like servo motors,
and stepper motors and treadmill motors.

Going from 12V to 48 V is about 3x-5x better.
Going to 80 V is another 100% better.
Going to 220V is another 100% better.

The effect is exactly the same, for the same reasons, although much less
kinetic and visual, on DC PV panels.

Example.
A servo loaded at 12V, might go to 3000 rpm in 0.5 secs.
48V, 0.1 secs.
80V, 0.05 secs.
220V, 0.02 secs.

Yes, a 2.5 kW, heavy, big, servo motor will accelerate to 3000 rpm in 20 ms.
It will also deliver up to 7.5 kW of power for that time (up to 3 secs),
and thus accelerate a big heavy mass of say 20 kg to the 3000 rpm in
about the same time.
( I did not do the math for power needed for this. Depends on radius, a
lot, as kinetic energy energy = power needed depends on radial size of
object).
The difference between 220V and 12 V is enormous.

Sweet spot is 48-80 V for small systems, and 400V for big systems.

Simple comparison for thought:
At 48V, costs are low, and performance is 3x better than 12V.

The losses/results are exactly the same, and repeat, weather you charge
batteries, or use the batteries to drive loads, like motors (lights,
whatever).
In other words, the losses are doubled, once in charging and once in
using the power.

For those interested, a DC treadmill controller is about half the
performance of a servo.

Simple comparison for thought:
The more heatsinks a controller needs, the less efficient it is.
Always.
Heat = loss.
No heat = efficiency.

Modern servos, and their controllers, have almost no heatsinks (yes,
they do, but small- and a fan, mostly for peak-power cooling, at 300%
overload, for typically some ms-length peaks).

Example:
The servo motors don´t get hot.
Running at full 100% load, a modern 220V ac servo motor is not hot -
warm, but not scalding.
Because they are very, very, very efficient.

My old M head Ac 3-phase motor is very good - 1940 technology.
1/2 Hp, 18 kg mass, gets warm running 24x7, can run weeks.
This is often done, industrially.
Almost silent at 400 rpm, after 60-70 years heavy use.

My new servo brushless motor is very good - 2015 technology.
2.5 kW, = 3 hp, 10 kg mass, gets warm running 24x7, can run weeks.
This is often done, industrially.
Very low noise at 400 rpm, about equivalent.
Low noise at 3000 rpm.

Difference is about 10:1 in power, times 2:1 in mass, for almost 20x
improvement.

All above is relevant, very much, imho.

VFD drives == stepper drives == servo drives == chopper drives or MPPT
controllers.
All are about equal in design and issues, use about the same components,
and potentially have about the same efficiency.

All take in power of one type, be it DC or AC (many do both), use a
chopper to drive the voltage up at high speed (25 khz, more, whatever)
and then step it down, faster or slower.
The power electronics components are very similar, and have similar
actual physics based compromises, and market based compromises.

Surprisingly, cost is NOT a good indicator of quality, reliability or
efficiency.
All the new designs are very good, and many are made in china, really
well and really cheaply.

One final, very important, point.

Tesla, that I follow for market reasons, has about the best VFD =
inverter out on the market.
They have re-done it 12 times, in 6 years.
There is, I promise, a Very Good Reason for this.
They must have spent 10-20M $ on this, over the last years.
And they would much rather have bought the design from someone, except
really good stuff was not available, with low manufacturing cost.

Moral:
Big heavy power electronics are cheap to make, expensive to design, and
the field is still green.

(BTW.
Modern welders and plasma torches are about the same.)

On 31/08/2016 13:37, jennifer_c_richards@yahoo.co.uk [electricboats] wrote:
>
> With a large system like 2Kw you would save money by using a higher
> voltage battery system (36 or 48 volts) and using serial (with your
> 100watt panels) and perhaps in conjunction with parallel connections.
> This is quite simple as you choose the configuration according to the
> panel voltages to match the specifications of the mppt, normally
> 150vDC(avoid having a voltage to close to the maximum especially if
> visiting the tropics) input voltage (minus a safe working limit)
> determines how many panels you connect in series and the capacity of
> the MPPT determines how many parallel connections you can have in
> total per controller.

--
-hanermo (cnc designs)

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[Electric Boats] Re: Okay, planning my solar charging installation.

 

Not sure choosing your system according to a particular MPPT is wise.

The main system consideration should be the capacity of your storage and the voltage that you have chosen now, or may change to in the future.

With a large system like 2Kw you would save money by using a higher voltage battery system (36 or 48 volts) and using serial (with your 100watt panels) and perhaps in conjunction with parallel connections. This is quite simple as you choose the configuration according to the panel voltages to match the specifications of the mppt, normally 150vDC(avoid having a voltage to close to the maximum especially if visiting the tropics) input voltage (minus a safe working limit) determines how many panels you connect in series and the capacity of the MPPT determines how many parallel connections you can have in total per controller.

On this subject it begs the question why you are choosing 100watt panels when the price per watt is normally much lower on full size panels 200-300+ watts given that money is your object?

Using a higher voltage storage system gives you the option of greater efficiency and greatly reduced cost of the controller/wiring/inverter/battery monitor/shorepower/dc regulator/dc-dc converter etc.

Conversely getting the most value from batteries involves having the largest cell sizes that you can given the required capacity but this works contrary to system voltage efficiency which is why there will never be a single answer as higher voltage efficiency reduces battery cell size efficiency, given equal system capacity.

Choosing one or more MPPT will fundamentally depend on whether your solar panels are identical or not as the input to the controller should be identical otherwise multiple controllers should be employed.

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Re: [Electric Boats] Okay, planning my solar charging installation.

 

There will be no shaded panels. No mast. Nothing above the level of the solar canopy except one little VHF antenna well aft or forward and one skinny pole light for the masthead light. HF antenna will just be a wire. I dont mess with aliexpress. I have pretty much picked out the controller, which is meant to handle the most power I could ever possibly have. I may also get a cheap no frills Chinese controller just for a backup, later, though.

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Tuesday, August 30, 2016

[Electric Boats] Re: Okay, planning my solar charging installation. [2 Attachments]

 
[Attachment(s) from 66b6dcd5b59507e7d751ea81382ea1f6 included below]

Hi Cal,

The panel you refer to there would likely be called a 12v panel and ones referred to as 24V might be around 45 Voc rather than around the 37Voc you indicate. It all depends on the number of cells in the panel.  Some might have 36 cells in series in the module and some 72. The terminology usually meaning suitable for a 12 V or 24V battery system on their own or indicating whether for a 48V system how many and which modules you need to wire in series to obtain a suitable voltage for your system to match to a conttroller.

Really the only way is to do the calculations and also base them on the temperature coefficients you get in the data sheets, to make sure in your expected conditions you don't exceed the controller rating in cold conditions and also to ensure that min voltages at max temperature do exceed battery voltage. Bear in mind in that case that usually the MPPT voltage output will need to be around plus 5V over actual battery voltage to start an MPPT up to charge. You can also get buck boost controllers like Genasun.

As others have said choose your panels first and then match your controller which includes calculating cabling losses. I know you said you don't have a Windows PC and sadly the spreadsheet I referred you to, which does all this, doesn't work with Open Office. The sheet really does work well though and you can see how the calculations are done and can input non Victron panels and then choose a non Victron MPPT if you wish. Attached the data used in the calcs.

Screenshot example attached of 2 x 24V panels in series with accepted correct controller. You should get the idea. All these calcs can be done manually but it's much easier with a spreadsheet to match controller to panels.

Thanks re blog and yes I'm very sad re deteriorating health (and age!) that I need to sell my boat. It's simply getting too much. Last year I couldn't sail at all due to an operation. I'm hoping to get a motorhome and electric bicycle instead that will be easier for me and so I can still play with the tech.

John R

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[Electric Boats] Rescue

 

This is not meant to encourge anyone to go with low power. 
We were at a meet up and race for our Alberg 30s on the weekend. 
On the Friday night one of our friends got a text from his kids (40 year old) who was bringing his boat over that the diesel had quit. They ran it out of fuel. They were in a fairly narrow chanel and what wid there was would be on the nose.
Since I was the only one who had not had a drink I said we could go tow them in. I liked the irony of an electric towing an ice that was out of fuel.
We have an electric yacht 100ibl system which moves our Alberg pretty well. 
We were able to tow them back at 2.5 kts using 47-50 amps at 48 volts.
Each one of these boats is 10000lbs displacement. 
Kept it slow for saftey as the harbour has 3 ferry crossings that we had to time. 
There are now a few more people that are surprised at what you can do with electric systems. 
Richard

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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Okay, planning my solar charging installation.

 

Good summary of how that's done John R.


Edge of cloud effect can add up to 30% more insolation(incoming solar radiation). I've witnessed some big spikes on partly cloudy days but they are not sustained. Design peaks occur on clear, cold days when the high current lasts for hours straight. That's when your hardware and connections get tested.




Hi Cal,

An example coming up below.

Firstly though, not sure who you are replying to here so easier if you address the person, so that saves me jumping in if your post intended for another. For example Capt Qullian has more actual experience with solar. All I can tell you is what I've learned from my 2 x 30W panels in series for my 24V system which runs my internet router, but still even that has given me insight over time.

My solar panel data online goes back 6 months but shows only yield, but the actual controller gives a 30 day history and as it is Summer here I can't give you max voltages in winter. Like I said before try this sheet and it is obvious how voltage changes. Every panel data sheet has a V temp and I temp coefficient given as percent per degree C. Enter your choice/combination of panels in the sheet in the modules tab. See other tabs for calcs.

https://www.victronenergy.com/upload/software/VE-MPPT-Calc-2_2.xlsx

Bear in mind that a panel not covered in snow and ambient temperature of zero C will have a lower actual temp if well cooled on a boat, say minus 5 C. Maybe worse with wind chill factor which further raises panel voltage.

An example of 7 x 140W x 12v panels in series giving 980 Wp, using a 150V rated MPPT, with panel temps between minus 5 C and plus 70 C, then max PV voltage at min temp would be 167.1V string Voc max and min PV voltage at max temp would be 101.7V, so you can see the range we are talking about and how temperature changes things - so whatever panels you use and controller needs to be matched so you don't exceed the MPPT voltage rating and damage the controller. Not an issue with current on Victron MPPTs as power limiting kicks in when adding more panels in parallel.

Often I will note with my setup that I will exceed the STC power rating of my panels therefore harvesting more instantaneously than the 60W installed power, one of the beneficial outcomes maybe from using a good MPPT. It could also be that and a combination of edge of cloud effect I understand.

John R.

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Re: [Electric Boats] Okay, planning my solar charging installation.

 

One more thing.  So called 12 volt panels are not 12 volts. The one 12 volt project I have the VOC of the panel is 31 volts and change. Still called a 12 volt panel. The MPP is 28 volts. Series the MPP would be 56volts for two panels. This is shy of 48 volt system requirements three panels would work leaving an extra panel. So the system will produce well in cloudy skys  panel MPP would be better at 70 volts or above. Your controller must handle VOC of panel array. Spec sheets for many panels can be found at sun electronics online. Choose before you buy anything.

Kevin

On Aug 30, 2016 3:31 PM, "Kevin Pemberton" <pembertonkevin@gmail.com> wrote:

Consider a controller for each batch of panels you purchase. The reason you should do this is one shaded panel will bring down the production of the complete string connected to the controller. This is  much the same way a bad battery draws down the bank.

Depending on your view you might consider looking at controllers offered on aliexpress. I have a 60 amp mppt controller that was much less costly. It is over 3 years old now with no problems.
I would recommend panels first then controller. The California gov's solar installation guide sets a spec. For variance between panels that can be a problem should the manufacturer change  panel spec between purchases. I let a year pass between panel purchases and found it hard to find matching specs. I wound up selling off my old panels at a loss because it was the best choice financial. To keep the old I would have needed a separate controller that is fine, but shade  is not a problem and all new panels was cheaper.  For a reference I am running 1150W array. 24V system. The controller is running half capacity. I could double the array but the new array would have a different pitch(angle) and would run better with  their own controller.

Kevin

On Aug 28, 2016 2:29 PM, "king_of_neworleans" <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

I have been advised to get my MPPT controller first, and then get solar panels to match it. My goal is to end up with 2kw of solar charging capability, or as near to it as practical. I don't mind starting out with an array of maybe 4 100w 12v panels in series and adding to it as money appears. 400w of solar power is 400w more than I have now.

So I am thinking go initially with a controller that will easily handle all the PVs that I could possibly ever install, rather than start with a small one and upgrade. Just a quick browse on Amazon found this as an example:

Outback Flexmax 80 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller $533.00

Outback Flexmax 80 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller

Outback Flexmax 80 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller
Outback Flexmax 80 Amp MPPT Solar Charge Controller
Preview by Yahoo
 
I saw some with 40a and 45a ratings at 48v (battery) but they were not much cheaper than this one, and I figure bigger is better in terms of heat dissapation etc. I read the manual and apparently this unit is not very picky about PV array voltage. Output is adjustable, 12v to 60v. Not saying that this unit is the one I am going to get, just using this as an example.

BUT

I have heard of guys using several small controllers instead of one big one, even a mini controller for each panel. Is that a better way to do it, or is a single controller better? Note that I will also have a separate 12v emergency battery, controller, and panel for backup power to bilge pump, VHF, etc. so redundancy is not such a big issue.

Are there any issues I need to be aware of, regarding series/parallel connection of solar panels? If I avoid parallel connections then I would have to resort to multiple charge controllers, right?

I have no mast and boom, nothing to shade the panels, FWIW. They will be mounted on a flat hard canopy covering (and shading) pretty much the entire boat, even hanging aft over the stern if needed. I do not plan on tilting  or otherwise directing the panels. I don't think the tradeoff is a good one, for me. I need to keep mounting simple and sturdy.

Keep in mind that for me, money IS an object and I am not interested in absolute best equipment and methods if they cost significantly more. So any comments or recommendations from those with actual solar charging experience are welcome and appreciated.

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