Wednesday, December 30, 2015

[Electric Boats] Northstar Battery - Difference between Red and Blue series?

 

Anyone know the nitty gritty differences between the red and blue series
of Northstar Batteries?

The 210 amp AGM models are pricey but well respected, and the blues are
the suggested "best" ones for my 48 volt bank by my motor manufacturer.

Northstar's site info only confused me more. I may get a very good deal
on four news reds. If I get a HUGE price cut vs what I'd pay for the
blues, could it justify the "downgrade," (for lack of a better term)?

Thanks!!

__._,_.___

Posted by: user <hallospaceboy93@yahoo.com>
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Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Re: [Electric Boats] Electric Antique Runabout Project Thouights

 

Has anyone tried dual counter rotating props in a slow speed application?

On Dec 29, 2015 12:25 PM, "Mark F mark.internet@yahoo.ca [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

googled the boat, nice looking project.

1st question would be how fast do you really want to go and for how long?

I have a 14 ft fiberglass boat with a 20Hp leg.
I am using a 3 HP treadmill motor(DC 90 Volt rating)

I used a 48 Volt controller at 50 amp max.
Boat speed was around 3 Knots.

Unfortunately I have not been able to find a reasonably priced controller at 90 Volts DC.(usually way more power than I need)
I hope to find enough time this winter to build a 90 Volt DC controller.
This would give me more RPM and hopefully better effiecency and faster speed.

I used NIMH batteries from a ford escape hybrid, and placed them in the front of the boat.
These batteries are too heavy for the power they deliver in a boat.

I will be using Lithium this summer.

For my use, your configuration would be more power than needed.
I have found my air cooled controller was fine(less complex)

I designed mine to have the controller mounted near the rear of the boat.
Only the DC wires from the controller ran to the motor.
This gave me more space and less heat under the motor hood.
The brushless system you have would all need to be under the hood, I think.

If you plan on pulling alot of power from your batteries, how would you cool them as well?

You are still in the planing stages, you need to define what your use is and go from there.
More power than needed = more batteries = more weight and more money.

Mark

Good luck with your project

Mark

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 12/20/15, llplummer@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Electric Boats] Electric Antique Runabout Project Thouights
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Received: Sunday, December 20, 2015, 9:20 AM


 









I am restoring a 1955 Penn Yan Swift
and am looking into powering it with a 1962 12 hp outboard
converted to electric. It is a 12 ft race boat that weighs
around 600 lbs and was designed to be powered with a 25 hp
outboard. I have been talking to the guys over at
Thunderstruck motors about the Motenergy ME 1302 as the powerplant
with a Sevcon controller. For the batter pack I'm
considering the Leaf batteries from the guys over at the
Hybrid Battery Center configured into a 12 Kwh package
running at 96 volts. Gear ratio for the old outboard motor
is 13:21 with the gas motor range of 4400-5200
rpm. 
Any thoughts the group has on
the project would be greatly appreciated. This is my first
EV project and engineering school was a long time ago.
:)
 









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Posted by: dan nicholls <windydan155@hotmail.com>
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.

__,_._,___

Re: [Electric Boats] Electric Antique Runabout Project Thouights

 

googled the boat, nice looking project.

1st question would be how fast do you really want to go and for how long?

I have a 14 ft fiberglass boat with a 20Hp leg.
I am using a 3 HP treadmill motor(DC 90 Volt rating)

I used a 48 Volt controller at 50 amp max.
Boat speed was around 3 Knots.

Unfortunately I have not been able to find a reasonably priced controller at 90 Volts DC.(usually way more power than I need)
I hope to find enough time this winter to build a 90 Volt DC controller.
This would give me more RPM and hopefully better effiecency and faster speed.

I used NIMH batteries from a ford escape hybrid, and placed them in the front of the boat.
These batteries are too heavy for the power they deliver in a boat.

I will be using Lithium this summer.

For my use, your configuration would be more power than needed.
I have found my air cooled controller was fine(less complex)

I designed mine to have the controller mounted near the rear of the boat.
Only the DC wires from the controller ran to the motor.
This gave me more space and less heat under the motor hood.
The brushless system you have would all need to be under the hood, I think.

If you plan on pulling alot of power from your batteries, how would you cool them as well?

You are still in the planing stages, you need to define what your use is and go from there.
More power than needed = more batteries = more weight and more money.

Mark

Good luck with your project

Mark

--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 12/20/15, llplummer@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Electric Boats] Electric Antique Runabout Project Thouights
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Received: Sunday, December 20, 2015, 9:20 AM


 









I am restoring a 1955 Penn Yan Swift
and am looking into powering it with a 1962 12 hp outboard
converted to electric. It is a 12 ft race boat that weighs
around 600 lbs and was designed to be powered with a 25 hp
outboard. I have been talking to the guys over at
Thunderstruck motors about the Motenergy ME 1302 as the powerplant
with a Sevcon controller. For the batter pack I'm
considering the Leaf batteries from the guys over at the
Hybrid Battery Center configured into a 12 Kwh package
running at 96 volts. Gear ratio for the old outboard motor
is 13:21 with the gas motor range of 4400-5200
rpm. 
Any thoughts the group has on
the project would be greatly appreciated. This is my first
EV project and engineering school was a long time ago.
:)
 









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Posted by: Mark F <mark.internet@yahoo.ca>
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__,_._,___

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electra Glide Data and updates

 

Yes.

The excellent discussion so far is very good, and has lots of merit, imo.

I am of the long expressed opinion that very large area, and very low
rise, are the correct solutions.

Because;
1.
Physics supports this.
So do textbooks.
2.
Tugboats and other low-speed high thrust uses use this type of setup
3.
Slower rise => lower slip
Lower slip => more efficiency

Also, lots of observational data prove that HP of approx 1/10 that
commonly used is more than enough, including in commercial use.

Early commercial freight haulers, sea-going, used to have about that
much, or 1/2 hp / metric ton, for 200-400 ton displacements.
Mentioned in the pretty good "Onedin line" TV series in passing.
Was also an early rule of thumb for naval architects.

Some of the very good points made, correct imo, are:
- change of efficiency/physics as the boat moves
- prop speed at root vs at tip has an effect
- vortices etc. have an effect

Current production props are "all wrong" wrt. efficiency.
A common "good" prop for ICE engines is near square, ie rise == diameter.

Thus, some obvservations based data gives rise to surprising real-world
results using the current-production props.
An example is the large-square prop (with high rise) getting good
efficiency.

On 29/12/2015 03:05, moriartybob@yahoo.com [electricboats] wrote:
> We're in an a posteriori world with respect to ideal prop
> configurations. Observational data is what's needed in our highly
> variable world of props, displacements, LWLs, bottom conditions, speed
> through the water, amps used, motors and battery systems.
> --Bob M

--
-hanermo (cnc designs)

__._,_.___

Posted by: Hannu Venermo <gcode.fi@gmail.com>
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__,_._,___

Monday, December 28, 2015

[Electric Boats] Re: Electra Glide Data and updates

 

We're in an a posteriori world with respect to ideal prop configurations. Observational data is what's needed in our highly variable world of props, displacements, LWLs, bottom conditions, speed through the water, amps used, motors and battery systems.
--Bob M

__._,_.___

Posted by: moriartybob@yahoo.com
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Sunday, December 27, 2015

[Electric Boats] Re: Prop design

 

In all the discussions I have yet to see a reference to nuke sub props. Diesel isn't the only example we can use. For a naval submarine the drive characteristics are more in line with electric, and efficiency is paramount both to extract performance and to reduce noise.

Although nuke prop design is classified photos do exist. I would think that modeling the basic characteristics in a tank would be trivial now that we have 3D printing to manufacture prototype shapes.

__._,_.___

Posted by: "G. McWilliams" <garrettmcw@yahoo.com>
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__,_._,___

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electra Glide Data and updates - Propeller discussion

 

Well put, King.  

There's an immense list of variables.  The prime advantage electric boaters have is we can measure volts and amps, the power that is used, at any given moment.  Fuelers can't do that.  Fuelers CAN measure how long a running time they have left. Battery buffs get to guess and hope.... I'm just stating the obvious.

__._,_.___

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Saturday, December 26, 2015

RE: [Electric Boats] Props for EP

 

For those with outboard conversion ambitions, I have at least 2 different size outboard props that could be experimented with.

One is the twin to the one I use on The Reach Of Tide: a brass 12x12x3" that has been adapted to work on Tohatsu M25B shear-pin drive outboard.

The other is a 14x12x2 (?) brass prop (not balanced) also adapted to work on the Tohatsu.

I also have 2 pitches of 9.9" diameter Tohatsu props.

 

Image of one of my 12x12x3" props (with PropGuard on my outboard) can be seen here: www.evalbum.com/492

 

-Myles

 

From: electricboats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:electricboats@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2015 5:46 AM
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Props for EP

 

 

King: That's a great idea. After you finish experimenting, maybe you could pass along your props to group members who are interested in testing them and contributing to some sort of database.

--Bob Moriarty

Ox 1976 C&C 33
LOA:  32.87' / 10.02m
LWL:
 26.42' / 8.05m
Displacement:
 9800 lbs./ 4445 kgs.
Batteries: 4 X Northstar 210 FT Blue+

Motor: Motenergy ME 1114 Rev A

Controller: Sevcon Gen 4 275 Amp
Current Prop: 2-blade fixed 16X10X1
(original - came w/A4)
Jax, FL USA
 

 

On Friday, December 25, 2015 1:21 AM, king_of_neworleans <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

 

Thanks for that, James. It brought a lot of stuff together. I just converted to electric a year and a half ago and I am still running the original 2 blade willow leaf folding sailboat prop which is a real dog of a prop for electric, but money is way tighter for me than most guys here so a LOT of things that I should do or should have done, get put off. I was thinking about increasing my reduction ratio and mounting the biggest 4 blade prop with the widest blades that I could find that would give me decent hull clearance, but I am also thinking it would be really cool to experiment with more blade tip trail and more cupping. So what I really want to try, simply isnt available and certainly isnt available in varying degrees and if it were I would not be able to afford an endless stream of props to try. Modeling software just doesnt do a good job of presenting real world performance comparisons for what we are talking about here; as everyone knows it is mostly all about infernal combustion engine props.

Last week I built a 3D printer from a Chinese kit of parts. 3D printing is not something you just open up the box and DO. It takes a while to tweak all the parameters and techniques. But I am hoping to be proficient enough in a year or so to make an ABS prop, which will greatly improve the practicality of experimenting with different prop geometries. There are some hurdles to overcome. First of all, good solid prints are SLOW to make. Second, ABS is much more difficult to work with than PLA plastic, and PLA simply isn't strong enough.  Even ABS will have enough flex that it will not perform exactly like a duplicate in bronze. I figure printing hub, blades, and cap (print area is only 8x8x7 so I have to take a modular approach) for a 4 or 5 blade prop will take about 3 weeks. The good thing is once a print is started, it doesnt require much attention from me and I can just leave it go for a couple of days while it is making a part. I can probably extend the Y axis of the print bed but doing both Y and X axis would be extremely difficult, so printing a one piece prop is not going to happen. Anyway, I thought printing a prop would allow a lot more tweaking and serve as a prototype for casting in bronze or aluminum, and I was wondering if anybody else has done this.

I may take baby steps first, by printing a prop for a 36lb thrust trolling motor I just bought to electrify my pirogue. I will be bypassing the crude and inefficient built in speed control, with a PWM controller, and using a 48v 20ah LiFePO4 e-bike battery pack to power it. The cheapie plastic 2 blade prop looks like a good candidate for an upgrade and I may do some experimenting along these lines with this, first, and scale up the final design for a starting point for a boat prop. All this will cost me is a few rolls of filament, and a diver to pull the original prop which has been on there for 38 years. I should be able to manage okay for myself, after pulling the old one.

I am not really considering using an ABS prop as a permanent replacement... it simply wont hold up to long and hard use, I dont think, and blades will maybe have to be thicker than bronze and the root of the blade will certainly have to be overbuilt. But it would maybe make the experimentation process more feasible and deliver a finished design that ought to work for a cast/machined metal prop. At the very least, I end up with a nicer plastic prop for my trolling motor, and that one I can probably print as a one-piece.

So does this sound like a good idea?

 

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Re: [Electric Boats] Props for EP

 

I didnt know about them. But since I thought of the idea too, it must be a good one haha. I will look into that, yeah. Thanks for the tip.

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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electra Glide Data and updates - Propeller discussion

 

And I will be starting with a trolling motor prop. Cant afford a new one, though, so I will be using what I got.

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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electra Glide Data and updates - Propeller discussion

 

Static or Bollard Pull is a useful figure for tugs and other workboats, but not really relevant to efficiency of a recreationally purposed hull and prop actually moving through the water. There are a lot of factors at work and none of them are linear in nature, and with 100% slip and zero hull drag, you are not duplicating real world conditions. I think. Maybe if I had finished high school, I would know for sure.

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Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electra Glide Data and updates - Propeller discussion

 

For purposes of developing information about propeller shape, how about the following:

Start with a Minkota or Torqeedo outboard.  This would make it really quick and easy to change out test propellers.  It also allows a reasonably small propeller that can be within the scope of a 3D-printer, or at least lower cost per test.

I like the idea of a Catalina 30 as a test vehicle for the hull shape, and it being a very well known hull.  HOWEVER - for development purposes, maybe a Catalina 22?  It's another very well known hull form, and will take the above mentioned outboard.  Or, possibly even a dinghy or Jonboat - something small that will respond to the motor, and is really easy to use as a test platform.

For TESTING - put it in a dock with a fish scale between the boat (facing out) and the dock.  This removes the characteristics of the boat, current, and much of the wind factor.

With the above, one should be able to isolate just the propeller characteristics of what generates the most pull with as many factors as possible held constant.

Once you have good data on several promising options, then scale up to a bigger boat.

Thoughts?

John




From: "James Lambden james@electroprop.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2015 10:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electra Glide Data and updates - Propeller discussion

 
Hi Scott and Mike,   

Thanks for your commentaries on my post regarding Propellers.   

First we need to recognize that there is no scientific proof for many of the concepts that we are talking about.    

Getting an efficient propeller on a boat is an art form rather than a science.   The proof comes from actual results.  The explanations come from postulations of why the propellers that exhibit very high efficiency are obtaining these efficiencies.   Trends then verify postulations when propellers are compared with only one change.      If we see an improvement when pitch increases then we follow that change as long as we receive positive results.   

Every boat is different, every propeller shaft installation is different, every propeller shaft angle is different, every hull is different.   All we can look at are the results and follow any gain made in efficiency.   

A data bank for test results is a great idea.   It is easy to do with a smartphone taking video so we should be able to start 

Standard test data should include:

Observations done should include:    

-  low tide or high tide so no currents are involved.
-  two passes in opposite directions and the two passes are averaged
-  unedited video evidence that pans from GPS data to current meter which also shows voltage so power can be calculated.   
-  no wind or waves present
-  make and model of propulsion motor
-  gear ratio used
-  motor and propeller rpm data
-  type of reduction system:  gear, belt or direct drive
-  make and model of boat
-  Voltage and Current
-  Boat Speed by GPS.   
-  Customer Estimated  Displacement


These requirements are necessary so we can establish a baseline.    Over time and with multiple observations this group can change the way that boats are converted and new boats are built.   We can't leave it up to the experts from the past to come forward and admit that their formulas are incorrect for electric.  We must find out for ourselves what is working in the field through bonafide evidence.    

Electric propulsion requires new thinking with new teachers based on what works rather than what is predicted to work.   There are way to many variables to put into any kind of formula.   

The main difference between diesel and electric is that diesel relies more on power to get results, whereas electrics depend more on efficiency to get desired results.    Calculating overall system efficiency includes all the energy losses multiplied by all the propulsion losses multiplied by hull losses.  Electrical Propulsion Systems are dependent on each component within the system.   

It has been my experience that the single largest gains that can be made with an electric propulsion system come from increasing the size and perfecting the shape of the propeller.    I believe in the advancement of the efficiency of the propeller…... my company is The Electric Propeller Company.     Whats more, propellers are relatively inexpensive to buy and many prop shops will return a propeller with at most a small fee if done within a reasonable time period.    High Efficiency Propellers can be purchased for between $400 and $600 for boats between 30 and 35 feet long.     High Efficiency Propellers come with the added bonus that the tip is 2 inches aft of the center of the hub, so they enjoy added tip clearance too.    

There really is no end in the joy that you can have with electric boating, especially when you hone in on a good propeller.




Here are my notes on your post in italics: 

 
For background, I primarily rely on Dave Gerr's "The Propeller Book" for making propeller calculations and recommendations.  Dave is a respected naval architect and his book is used by many.  I have also waded through a reasonable amount of more scholarly (PHD type) work on propellers and feel I have a reasonable grasp of the theory and practice of sizing propellers.  I am a degreed engineer and capable of understanding higher math and theoretical concepts, at least at an undergraduate level.

Dave Gerr's Formulas do not apply to electric boats.    The basic concepts of design apply to all propellers but the difference is:     electrics are optimized by torque,  whereas diesels are optimized by peak power at full rpm with an unstable torque curve.   The two types of propellers are vastly different because of this.    Diesel Propellers have very little pitch so have to turn very quickly to make desired speed, whereas electric propellers can turn very slowly and do most of the work with torque rather than rpm.  



 
1.  Diameter is the number one consideration in optimizing for efficiency.


Diameter is only part of the formula.   It is possible to have a smaller diameter propeller that is more efficient.     Pitch, Blade Area Ratio, Cupping and Propeller Shape are part of the efficiency formula too.    Increasing the diameter also increases the tip speed.   When tip speed increases, so does turbulence.   



2.  Reducing shaft angle will increase efficiency.
 
Agreed.    The company RE-E- Power which has now gone out of business, did a lot of tank testing and found that shaft angle was not as important as the shaft being parallel to the hull surface, something that a pod can accomplish, but a shaft drive can't.   It makes sense because the laminar flow of water will be parallel to the hull so if the drivetrain is on an angle to the hull, then this will create more turbulence.     Getting additional tip clearance helps reduce the effects of the propeller not being parallel to the hull surface.   


Here is where he is off base:
Building Efficient Electric Propulsion requires discarding all you know about diesel propulsion and making systems that are completely off base with the norm that we are used to.   

 
1.   Maximizing propeller area will increase efficiency. 
It will tend to increase static thrust and provide better maneuvering performance.  However, this is not the same as efficiency under way.  The optimum propeller for efficiency will have blades only wide enough to absorb the power of the prime mover while maintaining reasonable face pressure, that is to say at a level below cavitation.  Making them larger beyond this point only increases propeller drag.  Again, it does improve maneuvering thrust, so there is a trade-off, based on your goals.  With a heavier boat, you probably want to go with a 3 blade propeller, though do not need to get crazy with a high blade area one.

Read Nigel Calder's article "In Praise of Big Propellers"    



Larger propellers will increase Propeller Drag which is why we advocate zero thrust operation of the propeller by keeping the motor on at a very low setting.   I also call this locking into the natural energy of the ocean.    

We have noticed significantly higher efficiency from some of our boats with 4 bladed propellers but our highest efficiency propeller remains a 3 bladed propeller.     

Obtaining the highest efficiency is all about slowing the propeller down so there is less slip.  You can only slow a propeller down if you have enough blade area ratio to push the boat,  and pitch to get to desired boat speed.   




 
2.  Going to a higher pitch reduces slip and increases efficiency. 
First off, this is completely untrue. 

Words like completely untrue do not belong in a discussion that has no scientific data apart from actual results.    In order to make a statement like "completely untrue" you should review the data first.      Higher pitch can obtain speeds with lower rpm if their is enough power in the propeller which comes from blade area ratio, number of blades, diameter and cupping.   



Slip is a ratio between the theoretical advance of a propeller through a solid and the actual through water.  If diameter is held constant, the slip will be more or less the same with different pitch propellers at any given boat speed. 

This may be true with propellers that have a similar propeller shape.   Alter the shape, cupping and pitch and the numbers will be vastly different.   



The math is pretty simple.  Also, slip and efficiency are not the same, though they are related. 



Also, slip changes with speed, which he does not seem to acknowledge. 

Force per kilowatt also changes with speed.   


According to the experts, there is an optimum pitch/diameter ratio for any given boat speed.  For sailboat speeds, 0.6 to 0.8 is generally considered to be the sweet spot. 

Using diameter instead of blade area ratio, cupping and pitch is based on how diesel's work and not on how electrics work.    Diesels use very small bladed propellers with minimal torque requirements.   Electrics have the capability of using very high blade area ratios with high pitch.   We have found that the optimum pitch to diameter ratio is more like 1.2 or even as high as 1.5:1   



For higher speed vessels, higher ratios are in order.  James has been making the claim that going to very high pitch increases efficiency for years, yet has never offered any data or analysis to support it. 

The reason for this is we consider the propeller and gear ratios that we choose to be proprietary information.    That will all be changing in the near future as we become an open source company for the enabling of this technology.    We have provided data on our various systems in the form of watts to knots which verifies our claims.   There are many posts on this forum with data from Electroprop customers that can be referenced to.      


 
3.                 3.  Higher speed propellers create a wider wash cone. 
I have never observed this in any kind of controlled situation and have never read anything that makes such a simplistic claim.  It is more complicated than this, though the concept of a narrow "wash cone" being more efficient is essentially true.

Propellers accelerate water in a cone shape.    I agree this should have further study.    We have to look at why the Electroprop propeller is more efficient than a typical sailing propeller then we postulate the reasons.    The propellers that we use have a different pitch at different distances from the hub center.    We could prove this theory with some water die in a test tank.   



 
4.                 4.  Diesel propellers are very inefficient and the ones he installs are 50% more efficient. 

In some cases I think that the propellers we use might be as high as 100% more efficient than the propellers that they are replacing in particular, the atomic 4 propeller.   There is no other explanation.   We know the drive systems are between 80 and 85% efficient so the improved efficiency must come from the propeller.     We regularly replace diesels 3 x the horsepower.   6 electric horsepower has proven to have better performance than 35 h.p, Atomic 4.   The only explanation is the added performance must come from the propeller.


This can only be true in cases where the existing propeller is, indeed, an very inefficient one.  Yes, this is sometimes the case.  The most common case is the propellers used on Atomic 4's.  There are intentionally undersized and inefficient to allow the engine to turn up to a higher speed.  It is a compromise dictated by the design of that engine and transmission.  We always strongly encourage customers to change an A4 propeller to something better.  Same in cases where the diesel propeller is undersize, or has a really low or high pitch.  In most cases, the propeller installed is already as large as the space will allow.  Also, they are usually ok on pitch.  In most cases, there is little to be gained by changing propellers.  We evaluate on a case by case basis.
 
In summary, though James is partly right, he is also partly wrong. 

Judgemental words are not appropriate for learning from a trial and error physics problem based on evidence from a wide range of test platforms.    There are right turns and wrong turns in the road towards ultimate efficiency.   We may find an aspect to propeller design in the future which changes everything we know about propellers today so we must keep an open mind towards any kind of advancement.   


If I were designing a new boat for electric propulsion, I would maximize prop diameter and make the shaft angle as shallow as possible.  Look at a trawler.  Of course, these work against each other, so it all ends up being a trade-off.  I might do some other things with pitch and blade area, but this is more at the margins.


As we dig into this further we will find that pitch, blade area, and perhaps most importantly blade shape are more important than diameter of the propeller.    There have been significant advancements in propeller design since most of the boats that we have been converting were built.   Propellers are now machined with CNC machines to new shapes that have slowly improved with the years, as propeller companies follow increases in efficiency.    When I visited Torqueedo in Germany I was shown all of the different designs of propellers that they tried before arriving at the ones they currently use.   None of those propeller look anything like a standard sailing propeller built over the last 40 years.   The torqueedo propeller is part of what makes the Torqueedo a viable alternative to small outboards.    

Increasing efficiency has lots to do with other parts of the propulsion system too, and how the propulsion system is geared.   If you gear for speed, this will come at a cost for efficiency at all the lower speeds because the motor then runs on current rather than on voltage.    This also plays into pitch and rpm.   Finding the most efficient propeller solution has to include the current capability of the motor, the currents of the motor and the gearing involved.    In general, all losses of an electric drive motor are current related and no losses are voltage related.    The windings of the motor also matter when chasing efficiency as a motor wound for higher torque will have higher efficiency but will have less rpm.     Slowing the system down is the best way to increase efficiency which includes slowing down the motor so there are less speed related frictional losses in the reduction unit, and slowing down the propeller shaft so you have less speed related friction losses of the thrust bearing and cutlass bearing.    This also plays into slowing down the propeller so you have less friction losses from the water across the blades, and slower tip speeds for less tip turbulence.

What really matters more than anything else that we have discussed here is propeller placement.   On many boats fore and aft placement of the propeller is limited to an aperture or by a rudder.   On some boats there is open water behind the propeller and the prop can be slid back an inch or more, providing more clearance from the hull and from the strut.    Normally, prop manufacturers recommend the hub be very close to the cutlass bearing, but we are finding that slower turning propellers can be moved aft, away from the cutlass bearing and still be adequately supported.   Even 1/4 to 1/2 and inch can make a difference to vortex formation so take some if you can.     If you move the propeller too far away from the cutlass bearing you can experience shaft whip which you will notice as a new vibration under heavy power and cause premature wear of the cutlass bearing, so don't take too much!  

A propeller creates a vortex, and any obstruction to that vortex robs the propeller of its efficiency.   Boat manufacturers can make the changes we wish we could, so reach out to them and when they get on board you will find we can increase system efficiency could improve by another 30 % of so as they go to extended shaft tubes and eliminate the strut which causes significant amounts of turbulence in the vortex every time a blade passes it.

One thing is obvious, we are on the leading edge and the road before us is a great place to enjoy.

    

Hoping everyone out there is having a great holiday season!   

Happy Electric Sailing in the New Year!   

James







James Lambden
The Electric Propeller Company
625C East Haley Street,
Santa Barbara, CA
93103

805 455 8444

james@electroprop.com

www.electroprop.com

On Dec 25, 2015, at 10:09 AM, mike@electricyachtssocal.com [electricboats] wrote:

 

To Electricboat Group
From Mike Gunning Electric Yachts of Southern California/Pacific
 
I have asked Electric Yacht's prime engineer to review and share his thoughts on the subject of propellers and how to make the electric boat as efficient as possible.  This thinking is based on naval engineering plus the antidotal sample set of at least 300 conversions.  I will present his thoughts with the understanding that everything is a compromise when designing a boat and its propulsion system.  You need to understand the specific character of your boat, how you use your boat, and where you use your boat. 
 
First: let's talk about the boat that you and I are updating.
The original naval architect that designed your boat used his skill and training and the boat builder applied that engineering as they built the boat.  Prior to World War Two, most recreation keel boats were not powered to drive the boat to hull speed and that sailor used the motor system within that limitation.
 
Since the vast majority of the boat we have converted were built from 1965 through 1990, we see two basic engines – Gas motors through the early  1980s and diesel from that point on.  We also see many ICE repowers being not the first but the second and even the third repower.  We see engine installed that are underpowered but mostly overpowered with installations from poorly done to very well done.  
 
Second:  The boat you and I are converting are not the same as the boats being built today. 
Today one can see that most new boats are overpowered (estimated they are being power being 140% to 150% of what is required to reach hull speed) and engine compartments are highly compromised for the sake of the interior layout.   Hull shape and keel design has changed radically along with the weight of the boat.
 
Therefore decide in your specific repower:
·         - Do you want to reach hull speed?
·         - Do you want to impact the sailing character of your boat for the motor propulsion?
·         - Is cost an issue?
·         - Is range more important than speed?
·         - Is it a race boat in protected water or a passage making sailor crossing an ocean?
·         - Do you have a limited requirement for motoring?
·         - How do you charge the battery technology that you decide to use?
- Do -  Do your want to update a boat that is so unique that only you will want it or be more conventional for resale?
 
Third: Let's do a test of similar boats with identical hull shape and compare across a number of propellers.  The boat that I would recommend is the Catalina 30 which had a production run of over 7000 and of which a significant number have been converted to electric.  There may be some differences in propeller angle or slight differences in individual boat along with the impact of hull bottom condition and the specific of water in which the boat is located.  The boat has a fairly modern hull and well proven and well understood.  This would be the best we can do without a true scientific study with multiple propeller configuration in a labratory tank.
 
To this effort, I will ask our 15 or so Catalina 30 conversion clients to participate.  I would also ask anyone else who has converted their Catalina 30 to do the same.  I will create a data sheet that will be completed which will give us basic facts and also some antidotal information by each participant.  I would hope to see propeller that mimic the propellers that we see in our community.  As we all understand what the sailing character of that well know boat is, we can compared it to the individual boat that we own or are converting.
 
I would like to see the marine propulsion builders participate in this.  I know there are very knowledgeable sailors and engineers on this forum who can then participate and comment on the data.  If the data sample is not enough to make a valid analysis or if the data is sperious, I believe we will at least have additional antidotal information.  It might spur on research with a marine engineer within a controlled test environment.
 
Note from our engineer:
 
For background, I primarily rely on Dave Gerr's "The Propeller Book" for making propeller calculations and recommendations.  Dave is a respected naval architect and his book is used by many.  I have also waded through a reasonable amount of more scholarly (PHD type) work on propellers and feel I have a reasonable grasp of the theory and practice of sizing propellers.  I am a degreed engineer and capable of understanding higher math and theoretical concepts, at least at an undergraduate level.
 
Here is what James gets right:
 
1.  Diameter is the number one consideration in optimizing for efficiency.
2.  Reducing shaft angle will increase efficiency.
 
Here is where he is off base:
 
1.   Maximizing propeller area will increase efficiency. 
It will tend to increase static thrust and provide better maneuvering performance.  However, this is not the same as efficiency under way.  The optimum propeller for efficiency will have blades only wide enough to absorb the power of the prime mover while maintaining reasonable face pressure, that is to say at a level below cavitation.  Making them larger beyond this point only increases propeller drag.  Again, it does improve maneuvering thrust, so there is a trade-off, based on your goals.  With a heavier boat, you probably want to go with a 3 blade propeller, though do not need to get crazy with a high blade area one.
 
2.  Going to a higher pitch reduces slip and increases efficiency. 
First off, this is completely untrue.  Slip is a ratio between the theoretical advance of a propeller through a solid and the actual through water.  If diameter is held constant, the slip will be more or less the same with different pitch propellers at any given boat speed.  The math is pretty simple.  Also, slip and efficiency are not the same, though they are related.  Also, slip changes with speed, which he does not seem to acknowledge.  According to the experts, there is an optimum pitch/diameter ratio for any given boat speed.  For sailboat speeds, 0.6 to 0.8 is generally considered to be the sweet spot.  For higher speed vessels, higher ratios are in order.  James has been making the claim that going to very high pitch increases efficiency for years, yet has never offered any data or analysis to support it. 
 
3.                 3.  Higher speed propellers create a wider wash cone. 
I have never observed this in any kind of controlled situation and have never read anything that makes such a simplistic claim.  It is more complicated than this, though the concept of a narrow "wash cone" being more efficient is essentially true.
 
4.                 4.  Diesel propellers are very inefficient and the ones he installs are 50% more efficient. 
This can only be true in cases where the existing propeller is, indeed, an very inefficient one.  Yes, this is sometimes the case.  The most common case is the propellers used on Atomic 4's.  There are intentionally undersized and inefficient to allow the engine to turn up to a higher speed.  It is a compromise dictated by the design of that engine and transmission.  We always strongly encourage customers to change an A4 propeller to something better.  Same in cases where the diesel propeller is undersize, or has a really low or high pitch.  In most cases, the propeller installed is already as large as the space will allow.  Also, they are usually ok on pitch.  In most cases, there is little to be gained by changing propellers.  We evaluate on a case by case basis.
 
In summary, though James is partly right, he is also partly wrong.  If I were designing a new boat for electric propulsion, I would maximize prop diameter and make the shaft angle as shallow as possible.  Look at a trawler.  Of course, these work against each other, so it all ends up being a trade-off.  I might do some other things with pitch and blade area, but this is more at the margins.
 
I hope this helps.
 
Happy Holidays!




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Posted by: oak <oak_box@yahoo.com>
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