| William, Have you looked at the sevcon controllers. They will accept a 0-5K pot. analogue input, but they also accept digital throttle input signal as well. I am not sure of the format. I have the Sevcon Millipak brushed controller. It is any amazing little bit of engineering. I don't know if this is quite what you are looking for but thought I would mention it. Hans --- On Thu, 4/29/10, williamdickenson55 <williamdickenson55@
|
Outstanding. I assumed that proprietary meant undocumented but I'll start that hunt asap. Excellent.
Yes, the 0-5v DAC would be the way to go.
Thank you again for the tip.
--- In electricboats@
>
> williamdickenson55 wrote:
> > Many of the AXE controllers support a serial interface which I suspect could give me a lot of useful information about the motor, the consumption at the head, losses etc. Even the temp of the controller itself might be worth looking at. But sadly, the AXE controllers use a proprietary format to talk to the Windows based PC.
>
> The data acquisition protocol has been documented and is 'out there'.
> Alltrax apparently released it to stop people from tinkering and
> accidentally changing NVRAM settings. I've got a few files describing
> the protocol sitting on my PC and I've tried it out, sending 'commands'
> to my AXE and getting the appropriate data back.
> It was the electric bike people who pushed Alltrax into releasing the
> information.
>
>
> I have a long term aim to program up a micro with an oled display to
> show the controller parameters on the fly.
>
> > And I am certainly too lazy to reverse engineer that. And it looks like I can read it from the PC, but not control it.
> >
>
> You probably can control it over the serial port, but that certainly
> isn't documented. However the AXE support 0-5v throttle and you could
> easily generate that with an D-A attached to the micro. Many have one
> (or more ) built in.
>
> I expect many other controllers also have a 0-5v throttle option. (And
> probably for this very reason, to allow throttle control from another
> electronic system(
>
Ahh. Another thing to add to my son's project bucket. No Web site now, but I should and I will. I should have thought of that one myself.
I really like Spin. I'm old enough so I had assembly on 6502 in Sym-1 not to mention some painful Forth. But with a few minor exceptions this is outstanding. I've been able to encapsulate a lot of different devices under standard code and get great results. This is slick. More importantly, my son (who is 16 with attention span of most 16 year old boys... zero) can work with it and get results quickly. We have 2 months to do this from June 1 to August 1 so it will be fun.
I saw on another post that Alltrax may have grudgingly given out the specs. I'm looking now. That would be an ideal solution. Epecially when tied to the 0-5v control.
Thanks
--- In electricboats@
>
> Wow! Sounds like a neat project. The parallax propeller by itself looks like a neat uC. I haven't gotten around to playing with one yet. How do you like spin?
>
> You have probably done this but have you contacted the controller manufacturers directly and asked for the protocol (if available)? You might get it with an NDA. I haven't personally seen a controller like the one you're asking about, but I haven't looked for one either.
>
> Do you have a web page for your project? I'd like to know more.
>
> Regards,
>
> James
>
> --- In electricboats@
> >
> > Ok, I wasn't clear and I paid for it ! So let me explain a bit more.
> >
> > The parallax propeller chip is managing the 17ft boat. We currently monitor environmental things like water temp, water speed, ground speed and GPS position. The goal was to expand that when we replace our ICE with electric. The project grows in software first, then in hardware.
> >
> > With some help from the propeller forum, we are about to install monitor circuits that will monitor the 4 individual batteries including charging, and their overall health/capacity (battery temp etc). We can monitor the small windmill that charges the boat when docked as well as the twin chargers. Xbee will send data to the house computer for display.
> >
> > We would like to be able to tie this same system to the speed control for the boat. Then I can look at consumption vs supply and we can do some experiments. I can of course connect a servo to a pot and have speed control. Thats kind of a no-brainer and probably where I will end up but....
> >
> > Many of the AXE controllers support a serial interface which I suspect could give me a lot of useful information about the motor, the consumption at the head, losses etc. Even the temp of the controller itself might be worth looking at. But sadly, the AXE controllers use a proprietary format to talk to the Windows based PC. And I am certainly too lazy to reverse engineer that. And it looks like I can read it from the PC, but not control it.
> >
> > We have not purchased the motor because for us, the controller will make the motor decision (brushless et al). My goal is not to run the motor through the prop chip. That I do in RC/robot land all the time but this is a whole different scale when we start in the 4-8hp range. The prop chip will provide an input signal and I've got a wealth of approaches to provide data to the controller from serial to midi to ethernet and almost everything in between.
> >
> > Ideally, I would like a speed controller that I could set speed directly from the micro and read data back through serial or other 'open' connection. To the original specs, 48V / 400W. Dual motor control would be preferred.
> >
> > If all I can do is the servo-pot connection, it's not fatal. Just lost opportunity for me. And yes, we will probably add automatic steering next year when we build the new boat. But I think this is enough on our plate for the summer.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In electricboats@
> > >
> > >
> > > The Arduino (about $30) does PWM as a standard part of its architecture. The question seems to be fitting MOSFETS (or whatever) on the motor controller side.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: hardy71uk <p0054107@>
> > > To: electricboats@
> > > Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2010 4:51 am
> > > Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Controller for 300w and microprocessor
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > The simple way to do it is with a voltage controlled controller . then the interface can be a very basic digital to analog convertor circuit. the somewhat more technical way is to generate pulse width modulation in the micro.
> > >
> > > Chris S
> > >
> > > --- In electricboats@
> > > >
> > > > I've been digging through the various controller circuits and while I am finding more than a few excellent controllers, I am not finding one that can be controlled by a microprocessor.
> > > >
> > > > Anyone know of a good one ? I've got everything running on my test setup so I don't have the real motor yet either, but I need the controller to get the software written. I need somewhere around 48V / 300-400W.
> > > >
> > > > I thought I saw one that could control 2 motors but that may have been in a parallel universe.
> > > >
> > > > Thank you all
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
williamdickenson55 wrote:
> Many of the AXE controllers support a serial interface which I suspect could give me a lot of useful information about the motor, the consumption at the head, losses etc. Even the temp of the controller itself might be worth looking at. But sadly, the AXE controllers use a proprietary format to talk to the Windows based PC.
The data acquisition protocol has been documented and is 'out there'.
Alltrax apparently released it to stop people from tinkering and
accidentally changing NVRAM settings. I've got a few files describing
the protocol sitting on my PC and I've tried it out, sending 'commands'
to my AXE and getting the appropriate data back.
It was the electric bike people who pushed Alltrax into releasing the
information.
I have a long term aim to program up a micro with an oled display to
show the controller parameters on the fly.
> And I am certainly too lazy to reverse engineer that. And it looks like I can read it from the PC, but not control it.
>
You probably can control it over the serial port, but that certainly
isn't documented. However the AXE support 0-5v throttle and you could
easily generate that with an D-A attached to the micro. Many have one
(or more ) built in.
I expect many other controllers also have a 0-5v throttle option. (And
probably for this very reason, to allow throttle control from another
electronic system(
Why do you feel the batteries need to be replaced?
80% of batteries fail due to sulfated plates. The process can be reversed with a desulfator.
Not only can you possibly revive your current batteries, but a desulfator can be used to revive other batteries that have been discarded enabling you to beef up your battery bank and extend your cruise time.
http://leadacidbatt
I will be launching my first electric boat this summer. It will be powered by the 8 Trojan T-105s I picked up for free last weekend.
They are in pretty bad shape, but the first pair are responding nicely to pulse conditioning with a Charged Inductive Pulse (CIP) desulfator. The standing voltage has risen 1.11 volts in the last 3 days. If they finish off in like new shape the process should be done in another week.
I agree with the other fellow that charging any bank greater that 12v should be done with multiple 12v chargers.
Higher voltage chargers for the higher voltage banks always result in the weakest cell destruction by overheating and cascade failure of the bank. To some degree this is avoided by using 12v chargers on the 12v segments.
Don
--- In electricboats@
>
> Hello, I just joined since I just acquired a 16' pontoon boat with a transom mounted 65# thrust, 24v motor and four 12v marine batteries. I've always thought about solar powering a pontoon/houseboat since it sits in sunshine all week, in between uses.
>
> This boat came with a trailer, which I purchased for another traditionally powered pontoon boat that I've just redone. But this electric concept dominates my mind now that I own the setup. The batteries have to be replaced along with the wiring, but the motor does work. It even has an up/down feature for trailering.
>
> So, to begin the process I need to select some batteries for this 24v system. I've scrolled down througn a few pages of posts and saw the discussion between flooded and AGM batteries, plus the charging demands of each. I have shore power available at my lake dock and already own an automatic 12v car charger.
>
> I'd like to financially stay at an entry-level enthusiast for this season, and then possibly incorporate some solar cells on a hardtop or softtop next season. I'm also stealing the bimini top from this boat for the other one, and just missed out on a used hardtop for sale at $150.
>
If this is not the place for this, I apologize and understand that this can be moved.
I converted my Bristol 32 sailboat to full electric with dual 215 amp odyssey PC-1800 48 volt banks (LOOK THESE BABIES UP!!), Perko switched.
I was going to build the PMAR motor/controller etc... myself but ran into issues with some parts and the cost of the extruded aluminum would have been unreal. So I went with the SolidNav setup since it was exactly what I would have built anyway.
We sailed the boat on the upper Hudson all summer last year but have moved to Florida. We are selling the sailboat but will be installing this EXACT same setup in a Catamaran that we have plans for in the next few years!
I have the boat listed for $27,800 for interested parties and I can send E-Mail of the setup and the rest of the boat images upon request.
For anyone who may be interested, you may contact me at scott.hennet@
Thanks in advance
Scott Hennet
Pen,
Another welcome from California (37.697210, -122.192690 in GoogleMaps, end tie). I electrified our 17 ton Herreshoff 55' Marco Polo. Pulled out the stink-bomb diesel and put in an old GE forklift DC series motor with one thousand pounds (96volts) of old batteries. Now it is a 16 ton H55. I can still motor slow for 10 miles. The maneuvering is much much better, since I get such precise control from the electric motor.
Anyone on here from Galveston Bay, Texas (the Clear Lake side) that could show off their e-boat to Penelope? Could anyone make time for the TimeChick?
Mark Stafford
GreenMarineRePower.
--- In electricboats@
>
> Hello! I found your list last night. I have a 37 foot '79 Hunter
> Cherobini Sailboat that I want to take the old nasty diesel engine out
> and replace it with a clean electric motor. Has anyone done this for a
> sailboat this large? Just how much power would I need and how much
> battery will that require?
>
> I just want to be able to maneuver in and out of the dock for the most
> part without freaking out the harbormaster. He is under the impression
> that you can't have a boat without an engine. Else I'd just rip the
> thing out and use the compartment for a sail loft. lol I mean, we've
> been sailing boats for 3000 years without engines, but dang if people
> don't freak out when you talk about going engineless. Gawd I hate diesels.
>
> Any good advice out there?
>
> --
> Penelope L. McFadin
> lux libertas et caritas
> http://chaosbutterf
> http://www.cafepres
> 29N32'32.45" 95W2'12.58"
>
If budget is a top priority, I would suggest 4x 6volt golf cart
batteries with a good 220Ah capacity, wired in series for your 24V total.
Charging can be done with a 2-bank 12V charger connected as follows:
- Assume charger outputs are A and B
- Assume batteries are 1 2 3 4
A(+) connects to 1(+)
A(-) connects to 2(-)
B(+) connects to 3(+)
B(-) connects to 4(-)
I would suggest the two bank 12v charger for simplicity's sake -- Just
plug in at the dock and go home.
ProMariner has a 12Amp dual bank 12V charger for around $100. It should
be able to recharge your bank overnight. There are also 20A and 30A
multi-bank chargers but they cost more. Also, should you to AGMs later
on, these chargers will work for them as well.
The big advantages of AGMs is that they can be tipped without spilling
and can take and give amps than flooded cells. If your batteries are
installed in a secure location in battery boxes, by the time they are
spilling anything, I would think your pontoon boat has much bigger
problems that leaky batteries. The golf cart batteries are cheap and
readily available and tend to give more bang for the buck than using 2x
220Ah 12V batteries.
/Jason
Doug B wrote:
> Hello, I just joined since I just acquired a 16' pontoon boat with a transom mounted 65# thrust, 24v motor and four 12v marine batteries. I've always thought about solar powering a pontoon/houseboat since it sits in sunshine all week, in between uses.
>
> This boat came with a trailer, which I purchased for another traditionally powered pontoon boat that I've just redone. But this electric concept dominates my mind now that I own the setup. The batteries have to be replaced along with the wiring, but the motor does work. It even has an up/down feature for trailering.
>
> So, to begin the process I need to select some batteries for this 24v system. I've scrolled down througn a few pages of posts and saw the discussion between flooded and AGM batteries, plus the charging demands of each. I have shore power available at my lake dock and already own an automatic 12v car charger.
>
> I'd like to financially stay at an entry-level enthusiast for this season, and then possibly incorporate some solar cells on a hardtop or softtop next season. I'm also stealing the bimini top from this boat for the other one, and just missed out on a used hardtop for sale at $150.
>
>
>
