Saturday, May 13, 2017

RE: [Electric Boats] Anybody Using a Splined Joint in their Drive Train?

 

When it comes to spline interfacing, you might try to find parts that already have the spline, then have it ground down to fit, e.g. a straight- or keyway-coupler (or whatever).  I was making my own 14-point spline-to-7/8" keyway couplers using 7/8" couplers & JBweld shaped into the spline shape.  They'd last about a month, then suddenly shred.  I later found that outboard lower units used the same spline on top as on bottom.  The local marine salvage yard sold me a pinion gear that had my 14-point spline for just $35.  With that and a 7/8" coupler, I handed them over to a machinist who ground down the pinion gear hub OD until it fit into the 7/8" coupler.  Slapped some epoxy on the pinion gear and pushed the two together…it's an odd looking coupler but it's delivered flawlessly now for 10 years or more.  Maybe you could do something similar?

 

 

From: electricboats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:electricboats@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of king_of_neworleans
Sent: Saturday, May 13, 2017 9:10 AM
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Electric Boats] Anybody Using a Splined Joint in their Drive Train?

 

 

It occurred to me that having a little axial slip in the shaft somewhere between thrust bearing and motor would be a good thing. 2 hours of googling failed to turn up an ideal solution for my 7/8" motor shaft and 1" prop shaft. I know many golf carts use splined motor hubs. What I want to do is adapt the 7/8" motor shaft to maybe a 1" female 6 spline coupler, then couple a short 1" splined shaft to the 1" round drive shaft, so if there is any play in the thrust bearing, it won't allow any load to be transmitted to the motor. Has anybody here done anything like that? I would like to avoid a custom machined solution if I can. From what I am seeing that would cost me a minimum of $400 to $600. Off the shelf components would be really sweet.

 

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Posted by: "Myles Twete" <matwete@comcast.net>
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