Thanks for the information again John!
I just sendt an email to Lynch motors.
As I understand, DC controllers are not difficult til program. Alltrax provides programming software for free download.
Yes I have seen the kits made by Thunderstruck. Still too expensive. I really have to keep the costs very low, unless there wont be any electric boat at all:-/
Actually I thought I had motor and controller for "free" (from my electric car), but now I have to spend money on motor+controller that I rather would spend on solar panels:-/
The plan is to ask the local mechanical school to make the motor/gear-reduction mount for me. They do things very cheap. But I need to buy wheels, belt and bearings myself..
If I am lucky I will get the Agni 95R for a nice price. Then I can start looking for controller and other parts..
Bendik
On Monday, August 22, 2016 7:18 PM, Bendik Vignes <bendik.vignes@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi there Dan!
I am not sure if I understood all of what you wrote, but in my case I do not want a mechanical reverse gear. Do you mean there is difficulties with reversing an electric motor in a boat?
My tought was that with a programable motor controller (i.e the Alltrax SPM series), I can adjust parameteres concerning direction change (I did this with my Siemens car-motor).
I am planning to install a trust bearing on the propeller shaft, and belt drive from the motor a second shaft that is coupled with a flexible shaft coupler to the propeller shaft.
Regards
Bendik
On Monday, August 22, 2016 6:48 PM, "'Dan Hennis' dhennis@centurytel.net [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hey Guys,
RE: the using an old O/B lower unit for your gear box and drive. I am building an E-Tug right now. I am currently going through the pains of converting a pair of larger Merc lower units to use on the project.
Yes you can and it is the simplest, to use the mechanical shifting system (transmission) of the outboard. If you intend to electricly change motor directions, a word to the wise: This is not as simple as it may look.
First off, most if not all larger units have a ratcheting forward gear, and about half have the same on the reverse as well. So if you do not have the output shaft pinned to one of the gears (forward OR reverse), you will be in for a "special" ride. Some reverse gears have a 3-6 dogged ears on the drive clutch side. These are the best. Since they are extremely hardened, I had to go to a special machine shop that had some "cosmicly" hard carbide and titanium tipped tools to get the pin holes precision-drilled. This all has to be done by a machine shop that is willing to work to a tolerance of .0001 or less. Yes, I have enough zeros there. That is one ten-thousandths. Anything looser in the precision, and you will have a bag of chips and pieces at the bottom of the bay or lake in no time. Monday I'll get the bill for my pair, but I expect it to be over two hundred bucks... ($85/hr X 4 hrs).
If anybody is interested, I am using 5/16" roll-pins through the reverse gear for simplicity of assembly later. The drives are older 85 HP lowers.
When my rich uncle dies, the guys at: A.B. Marine in Rode Island, said they would sell me a pair of "Autoprops" cut to the exact max. diameter and balanced for a mere $2,800.00 + tax, title, and dealer doc fees, EACH! They ar ethe exclusive dealers for the trick props that has been discussed here in the last couple days. I am thinking I will test the 14 X 11s I have now, first.
Just thought I would clear that minor detail up.
Also, pinning the reverse gear will reduce my parts count in a drive by seven (7). But the controllers I was going to use anyway, will cost 100 times that ($700/ea.).
Happy motoring,
Dan
From: king_of_neworleans
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Need help with choosing the right motor!
That looks like two motors. Well, doesn't hurt to have a spare, especially if you will be pushing the performance envelope.
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Posted by: Bendik Vignes <bendik.vignes@yahoo.com>
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