I agree John, the main fuses are best inside the power head where you can see them, coupled to the motor leads directly, from there it goes to the controller, where the factory fuse is. There is also an automatic circuit breaker with the setup. The factory doesn't mention that part very well, but it can save problems, and breaks before the main override breaker – or my three in fact. When the voltage gets too low that is the cut out switch. Well protected from both low or high voltage by the one setup that way, can change motors if needed in a few minutes for testing in my case.
I may have damaged one charger by putting it inside the battery box, not doing that again. Now I have two ways to charge, plus the long term maintainer I also do sales for. In EV stuff you need to know and have balanced systems for long term life. You and I know that, but some others are just getting what looks lowest cost, with some risk. I will have a talk with my dist. here Monday if possible, get delivery locations ironed out, or shipping set up for most future delivery locations.
Later, ------ Cal
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2014 9:37 AM
Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: Batteries, A note on Service Life
As long as you are going to change fuse holders and selecting a quality fuse holder, why not get them up out of the battery compartment? It's a rather harsh environment generally.
For many years I used the old fashioned glass fuses and holders in a marine environment. Never had any problems with contacts even on the higher current fuses. I have now gone to auto type blade fuses and they seem to perform well. The only fuse I ever used inside the battery compartment was the 300A bolt down fuse in the main battery feed.__._,_.___
Posted by: "cal" <h20dragon@centurytel.net>
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