Fred, have you tried changing the reduction ratio? A higher ratio might help you out on the overheating. The problem is that heat, even if carried away by a fan, still represents power lost. Energy wasted as heat. So cooling the controller could be fixing a symptom rather than the ailment. A certain amount of heat is to be expected, but be sure you are not generating more heat than necessary. All it takes is a different pulley on the motor shaft or the prop shaft and possibly a different belt if you don't have enough adjustment range. I assume you are using Thunderstruck's belt drive reduction gear?
I might also add that a fancy throttle assembly is nice but not necessary. A simple potentiometer mounted wherever is all that is needed, with most controllers. The enclosure, knob or handle, lever, whatever is just ergonomics and cosmetics. I have a pot fiberglassed to the end of my tiller, with a small knob on it, and I rotate it to port for ahead, more to port for faster ahead, to starboard for astern, farther to starboard for faster astern, and dead center for stop. (I have the stickshift firmware on my Kelly controller.) It is good to have a backup out of the weather, and I have one down below in the cabin, and a switch to change between the tiller mounted throttle and the one downstairs. Weatherproofing of the tiller mounted one is a ziplock bag, or a beer glass turned upside down over the end of the tiller with the tiller secured in the upright position. I can also remove it and drop it down in the lazarette when not in use. No FWD/REV switch needed with this firmware, just an on/off switch down below, and the throttle of course. Anyway, you can roll your own throttle much cheaper, and make it suit your convenience and aesthetics.
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