I will go for the 1/4" thick. It will be easy to work with, and as said, strengthening can be added if needed, and by going 1/4", with little warping. Believe me, Jim, your caveman math is right on as far as I can see. My own math is even simpler, seeking advice of others, then going with what I am comfortable with. I think that 3/16", while OK, might flex a bit with prop shaft thrust pressure. I intend having the plate large enough to give me good room to work, although of course the actual mounts on the boat don't have to be at the outside edges of the plate, either.
As I said, I need to experiment, my ultimate final combo might end up with a hydraulic motor on there as well, or maybe a very small ICE, although not likely, and I don't own a plasma cutting rig. Also, as a retired machinist, I know that stainless can be a machining nightmare, especially if using hand tools, and I am expecting to have to add some unplanned for holes at the very least. I have to rule out aluminum as it is harder to weld than simple steel. I can always replicate the steel unit in stainless or aluminum later, once set up and running. On the other hand, the current ICE is ferrous, and it isn't rusty, due to the previous owner maintaining the paint. But ICE's are really horrible things.
My plan is to continue with seeing if the old Atomic engine is any good, and in the meantime get an electric 'engine unit' made that can be set up either as an inboard, or maybe attached to an outboard if it turns out that my old inboard ICE is viable for a while. I have to try to not get too interested in the electric drive when there are other boat things to fix as well.
In a way, I am hoping that the ICE block is cracked, so I have an excuse to pull the whole ten-ton oil filled shebang right out, cast iron oil pan included!
Anyway, thanks for the info,
John
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