As I have said, I do not yet sail, nor do I have an electic drive yet, but my boat is similar to yours, being 26' by 8' beam, but heavier, at 6000 or more pounds. http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=2925
In my case, the current ICE, with transmission, weighs far more than I expected, so if removed would leave scope for battery weight.
I have been told that my theoretical hull speed is around 6 knots.
I also prefer not to have an outboard hanging off the back.
My final preference if I live long enough will be to construct an outboard well. Easier for me, working with a glass hull, than you with wood.
As you, like me, are starting from scratch, you might consider trying using electric trolling outboard(s) first, as presumably you have an outboard bracket.
The basic low end models seem to be rated at around 30 pounds thrust, and presumably the amps are easily found online as part of the specs.
From previous postings, I believe in this group, they can be improved by changing the prop to a model aircraft type, rather than the stock 'weedcutter' type.
And you could, just for a test, use a car battery to keep costs down, as initially you will only need to know how the power drives the boat, which should only take a few minutes running. Range is a whole different thing!
It may interest you that I have asked various groups and individuals if a trolling motor would be OK for my boat, and the responses were everything from a simple 'yes', to a suggestion that in any kind of current or waves, a 30 lb thrust trolling motor, or even two of them, would be useless. I suspect that the latter is a more accurate comment.
I do not have the advantage of already having a bracket to do tests.
Also bear in mind that as I will be learning to sail, I will no doubt make mistakes that I need greater backup to recover from, so your minimum power needs are probably less than mine.
My own thinking, which is purely for the best effect for what I am doing, and not involved with reducing pollution, although that is good too, is that my end ideal setup would be a 3 "HP" (2 kw?) electric drive, with a 3 to 10 HP ICE as a combination. My boat is at a club that is about 6 miles or so, I forget exactly, up an inlet, with tidal currents and shallow passages, so my guess as to needs for the ICE part is based on at least 3 HP to use in combination with the electric, and the 10 HP I get as a guess to allow for battery recharging (3 to 5 HP consumed?) while under ICE power. I also prefer to have water cooling to create heat that I can use to heat freshwater onboard. Bear in mind that a major goal for me would be to no longer have a stinky engine inside the boat cabin. Hence the electric would be inboard, possibly with a hydraulic drive to the same prop shaft from an externally mounted ICE if required.
I will have a better idea of my true needs once I can sail! If I turn out to have good control, I might change ideas, and go with sole electric, provided that the Yacht Club inlet tidal currents allow, in which case, I would probably need double the electric power, (say 4 - 5 kw?) for the same safety margins. And then heat the water directly, maybe from a woodstove. I am in Canada, by the way.
I hope that this helps,
John
2d. Re: Power Relationship
Posted by: "roger_russelburg" rrusselburg@sbcglobal.net roger_russelburg
Date: Wed Jan 26, 2011 5:39 pm ((PST))
Hi Mark
The boat is a Privateer.
It an old wooden boat built in Canada in the 40's and 50's.
26' x 7' 4500lb small cabin
3/4 rig .....................
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