At 07:52 AM 2/07/2010, you wrote:
>I just moved to a lake that only allows electric motors and bought a
>14' fiberglass. I have a small electric trolling motor on it now
>but want to build a more powerful system. I am considering using an
>etek clone and hooking that up to a used 2 hp evinrude outboard I
>just got for $20. I'd like to get 4 of the walmart large marine max
>batteries wired for 24V and hook it all up to solar panels and a
>charge controller. I found a machine shop down the street so I can
>have something fabricated to attach the motor to the evinrude. Does
>anyone have experience with this type of set up? Is it the right
>move to go with a permanent magnet dc or should I look into other
>motors such as AC? When I get the motor can I just hook it up to
>the outboard or do I need to change anything such as gear reduction
>etc.? Will the 12V batteries be fine or should I look into 6V
>etc.? Any other insight would be appreciated
G'day "mpbrother_2200"
There are plenty of people that have put electric motors onto
outboard legs, and typically you will want a motor that will do at
least 1/2 of the power that the original petrol engine was rated for.
I run an ex-forklift power steering motor rated at 500W continuous
using 1500W on a 4.5hp leg with a decent blower added. It does get
hotter than I'd like when run at full throttle for in excess of 15
min at a time. A few photos are on-line at
http://jcmassey.gallery.netspace.net.au/album05?page=1I have a Curtis 1204 controller for speed control, and hooked up a
speed control 'pot' in the tiller where the linkage used to be for
the throttle connection, so it behaves "just like an outboard". All I
do is plug in the "fuel line" that has 50 amp 'Andersen' (type)
conectors each end to the 48 volts in the boat.
Considering your power rating, you may be able to use a motor (and
controller) off a mobility scooter or wheelchair. I'd favour
permanent magnet DC (or AC if you can afford it) for outboards, as
they won't over-speed if they come out of the water.
As far as batteries are concerned, the first rule is "do not use
starting batteries". Second thing to note, is there are liars, there
are Damned liars, and worst of all are Battery Salesmen. You must do
your research (or ask here to get a free ride from someone elses
research/experience
). Whatever battery you choose must be of a deep
cycle tolerant type.
Your battery choice is firstly sealed vs vented? Sealed are cleaner
but need smarter charging so as not to ruin them (I used seald - AGM
batteries, with smart chargers as the boat goes home after each use).
Vented are far more tolerant to overcharging (just add distilled
water) but you need good battery boxes so as any leakage of acid
doesn't get on the boat. Your boat being fibreglass that is less of a
worry (fibreglass is usually very tolerant of battery acid), but you
may want to get battery enclosures 'glassed in to contain the batteries.
6V vs 12V batteries comes more down to what run-time do you need, and
are the batteries going to be lifted out much? Bigger batteries are
heavier (and give more run-time), but once you get above 120Ah a 12V
battery starts getting hard to handle (heavy), so 6V may be better.
Another thing with 6V vs 12V is if you have 6V batteries in a 24V
system, you can use a simpler speed control that works by switching
batteries, no electonics needed, three speeds. Continous duty
contactors like are used for winches, etc can be used to switch the
batteries all parallel (6V), 2 x 2 (12V) and all series for 24V.
Reverse is by electrically reversing the motor. If I was doing it
that way, I'd use 48V so as to be able to use one of the 12V
batteries for the contactor coils.
Unless the donor outboard revved at a strange speed, you'll mostly be
direct-drive coupling the motor.
Hope this helps
Regards
[Technik] James
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