So there's no confusion, I posted some pictures in an album. The boat is fiberglass. I was thinking of using a v drive and putting the prop assembly just aft of the rudder, below the waterline. I have an stern locker that would fit a small motor beautfully.
Can everyone see the pictures? Is it more clear what I'm thinking about?
--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "davidhughes_casaba" <davidhughes_casaba@...> wrote:
>
> Mike,
> You may need to post to 2 forums and I would suggest the wooden boat forum. With regard to the well that Eric described, I have seen it done both well and not so well (pun not intended). There is a lot going on structurally there and you want to be careful if you go down that road. Best to talk to a builder.
>
> Another option would be to offset the prop from the centerline of the boat and not punch through the stem. Many boats do inboards this way both fiberglass and wood. I just realized I am assuming your boat is wood but just recalled that that they did make these in fiberglass. It really doesn't matter but fiberglass may be easier in the long run. Rummary's boat yard in Arundal Maine does an inboard for the Alarion (26 feet loa) they build this way. They even offer it as an electric drive.
>
> Both of these approaches would be a considerable amount of work. You could always just replace the gas engine with an electric and hang it off the stern. Good luck and keep us posted on what you end up doing.
>
> Dave
>
> BTW: Nice boat.
>
> --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "Eric" <ewdysar@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Mike.
> >
> > Given the Bluenose underbody, with the deep keel and attached full depth rudder, it may be difficult to install a traditional inboard driveline. I'll let others provide their experience with such modifications. I've got another suggestion. With the overhang at the rear of the boat, you might be able to install a "well" on the centerline, behind the rudder and get away with a small outboard, gas or electric. Very little of the drive leg would be visible under the hull and you should have less prop ventilation in choppy conditions. Since the bottom of the well would be above the static waterline, there should be a minimal amount of drag addded by the well alone (from the gap in the hull). In a well, you won't be able to kick the motor back to get the prop out of the water while sailing, but a small outboard is pretty easy to lift out of the well for a long day of sailing. The outboard has the additional advantage of being removable for maintenance or long term storage.
> >
> > Your boat should be easily enough driven to use a large trolling motor, get one with a electronic speed control (Minn Kota calls it "digital maximizer"), they are more efficient. A remote throttle would make for a cleaner installation.
> >
> > Alternatively, the Torqeedo models are pretty cool and very efficient, I own a older Traveller 801. If set up with on-board deep cycle batteries like AGM or Lithium, you should get decent range from smaller cells. The lithium cells are more expensive, but have a published lifespan of more than 2000 cycles at 80% depth of discharge. You can also get away with a smaller rated lithium battery than lead-acid, they deliver almost twice the energy from the same 20 hour Ah rating at high amp loads as flooded batteries.
> >
> > Your boat seems like a nice candidate for the conversion. Realistically, you could go though the effort of adding the well, using the little motor that you already own and investing in an electric drive after you're back in the water. At that point, the conversion to electric shouldn't take more than a day or two of locating the batteries and hiding all of the wiring.
> >
> > Fair winds,
> > Eric
> > Marina del Rey, CA
> >
> > --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "pitremichael" <pitremichael@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello all.
> > >
> > > I've been reading avidly through your posts. Quite the collection of geniuses, I must say.
> > >
> > > I own a McVay Bluenose 23. It's a sweet little daysailer that I keep on Lake Pontchartrain near New Orleans. I've always hated the little outboard 2HP engine that I need to hang off the stern to get me in and out of harbor. It ruins the lines, it's loud, and I feel it defeats the whole spirit of the boat.
> > >
> > > I'm about to take her out of the water for a 5-6 month refit. I plan to install, among other things, a rudimentary electrical system to power a bilge pump, lights, etc. However, I'd also like to explore the idea of an inboard electric motor. I've done some measurements and planning and it seems possible. However, the boat has never had an inboard, so I would be building mounts in the stern locker, drilling the through hull, building a v-drive, installing the cutlass bearing, etc. Before I start posting pictures and detailed questions, does anyone have experience v-drives, and dropping a shaft through the bottom of the boat where none existed before? The idea is really freaking me out.
> > >
> > > -Mike Pitre
> > >
> >
>
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