I will be getting mine from Glenn-L. They have a medium duty 4 bolt hole thrust bearing and a heavy duty 2 hole. You will have to fabricate a bed for the motor plate and the thrust bearing housing. Try to use the old motor mount points. Most guys use aluminum but steel is much simpler to weld. Just need your batteries, a stinger, and a ground clamp. Or go to Home Depot and get a fancy pants storebought welding machine. Or Harbor Freight. Practice a lot if you are new to welding. MUCH BETTER to get a professional. Note that hot slag does not play nice with fiberglass. Don't burn your boat down. You NEED proper protection near any arc welding and also a fire watch and proper fire extinguisher immediately at hand. Trust me... When you are welding or burning you start fires, and you don't notice them at all. You don't need a torch though. Get a good blower too and don't weld galvanized steel down below. The zinc fumes are nasty. Get a cheap chop saw from Harbor Freight and also a belt sander, to cut pieces and prep ends and edges for welding. Do all you can out in the open air. Just tack it together in place to make sure it all fits and run your beads ouside in the open air. Direct drive? What prop size/pitch and target rpm? Usually these motors are reduced 2x1 and I am going 2.5x1. Also check on cooling fan efficiency. I assume you will use a right hand prop? That will have the motor running backwards when going ahead. Cooling fans on these motors I am told don't work well that way. I do know Motenergy has a bidirectional fan you can install. Or use a left hand prop. I am fixing to convert a similar hull, a Cal 2-27 with the same motor and a Kelly kbl48301 controller with 8 golf cart Batts for around 220ah at 48v. And also it is replacing an Atomic. So I will be wanting to follow your progress closely. Who advised you to go direct drive with this motor, and what was his prop recommendation?
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