Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Re: [Electric Boats] Electric or air cooling for outboard question?

 

I have a 1982 Suzuki 40HP donor motor. Coupling the motor to the prop drive shaft is one of my challenges too. Not sure how I am going to do it yet. The upper end of outboard drive shafts do not need to be supported by a bearing in the lower unit because they go right into the crankshaft which is bearing supported. When you pull that off there is no bearing support for the top end of the drive shaft, at least not in my motor.

While the DC motor shaft bearing may be enough to stabilize the top of drive shaft, most couplings, except for the rigid ones that cannot tolerate any misalignment, require the connected shafts to be supported at both ends. A jaw coupling ( http://www.ruland.com/ps_couplings_jaw_hub.asp ) with an isolating plastic spider doing the coupling would probably be the quietest, but to use it you need to install a bearing to support the top end of the drive shaft. Pretty fussy stuff.

What I will probably do is take the crankshaft out and see if I can get a motor adapter made from the splined crankshaft end. Get it machined so I can attach it to the DC motor shaft and have it fit onto the prop drive shaft the same way the gas powerhead did.

For cooling I am currently thinking of a redundant cooling strategy. Using an air cooled Golden motor 10KW motor mounted on an aluminum base that is water cooled and also mounting the controller on the same base for heat dissipation. I can use a simple submersible water pump in the outboard lower unit that pumps water through the water cooled motor base and overboard. I have decided not to use the outboard water pump for cooling. I want to use the DC motor functions for reverse, not the Suzuki transmission.

I have found that pumps I would trust a $500+ motor to are not cheap. If I have redundant cooling and I am not dependent on fluid circulation through the DC motor for cooling, the pumps I am willing to chose from broaden and drop in price. I think I can use a pump in the $50 range and feel confident. If my heat exchanger fails while out on the water I should be able to get in by slowing down, using lower power (heat) and relying on forced air cooling. Lower complexity and lower cost. One medium grade water pump is a lot less money than 2 high grade pumps.

Thanks for your input Cal. Regards,

Yahzdi

To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts. Thoreau 
On 05/27/2014 09:39 PM, 'cal' h20dragon@centurytel.net [electricboats] wrote:
 

I will be looking at that Yahzdi, trying several solutions.  I have a stethoscope for noises, but it doesn't seem to isolate the area enough. I loosened the shaft to motor coupling and that might help, also got a buddy looking at different motor mounts, and third I'm thinking about changing to a rubber tube over the drive shaft, and shifter rod, while I have it out.   I don't have the water cooling hooked up yet either.   My motor guy says the upper bearing is fine, that was a worry as they can howl a lot, as can the water pump I think.
 
I will be curious as to how yours works out, hopefully you will have better results.  What size outboard are you putting the motor on ?  Mine is on a Evinrude 50 hp, and the new one will be on a Suzuki 6 hp – but a lot more prop, and lower max throttle settings.  I plan on Deka AGM batteries, so those are a given when finished – I like those better than lithium at this time.
 
Good luck,   Cal
 
 
 
 
F
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2014 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Electric or air cooling foroutboard question?
 
 

Thanks for the response Cal. Do you know which part of the project the noise is coming from? Is it motor or cooling or ???

Thanks
To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts. Thoreau 
On 05/26/2014 08:43 PM, 'cal' h20dragon@centurytel.net [electricboats] wrote:
 
Exactly what I am doing now, good luck with that.  Mine works good, except for excessive noise that we are still working on.  Best of Luck,   Cal
 
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2014 12:01 AM
Subject: [Electric Boats] Electric or air cooling foroutboard question?
 
 

Hello to all,

This is my first posting, so here is a little about the project. I am
Yahzdi Taillon. My friend Ken Tate and I have acquired a 26' Columbia
River Scow of unknown origin.

To power it we are converting a 40HP Suzuki outboard to electric power.
The general plan for now is to use a 48VDC 10KW Golden Motor liquid
cooled brushless DC motor and their matching sine wave controller. First
let me state I am new to electrification of any vehicle, so most of my
decisions have been based on what sounds cool (pun intended). I have
done a lot of homework but the liquid cooling decision has little real
knowledge behind it. I have decided that I want the motor reversing
function to be electric motor reversing and not outboard gear box
reversing. So using the outboard's water pump is not an option.

That is my question to the group. What are your personal views and why?
My first reason for liquid cooling was to avoid motor cooling fan noise.
I decided I would pump raw water (sea water because we are in
Bellingham) through the motor and a fabricated aluminum water cooling
plate for the controller. Ken works for an aluminum boat building
company so we get the benefits of very reasonable CAD designed and cut
aluminum fabrication.

It didn't take long to see possible flaws in that scheme. Pumping sea
water through a motor that is probably made of aluminum and probably has
relatively small waterways might not be very clever. So I am now looking
at a closed loop for the motor with a pump to circulate the coolant
through the motor and one side of a fabricated aluminum heat exchanger,
and a separate pump with strainer to circulate raw water through the
other side of the heat exchanger. The heat exchanger would do double
duty as the controller heat sink.

Ken has suggested the possibility of using a radiator with a fan.
Plausible I think, but I just re-introduced fan noise.

This is getting quite complicated and costly just to avoid fan noise. At
this stage of the motor conversion project, all we actually have on hand
is the Suzuki outboard that works fine except for the very dead power
head, and 12 12V 139AH AGM batteries. So we are still in a position to
change our plan.

I understand the problem being solved is getting rid of the heat the
motor generates when being used. I have no real experience with how much
heat there is or how challenging it is to get rid of.

Thanks in advance for your input.

Regards,

Yahzdi

--

To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts. Thoreau

--

To affect the quality of the day, that is the highest of arts. Thoreau



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