Tuesday, May 15, 2012

[Electric Boats] Minn Kota motors

 

I have just a few thoughts in response to the following,
I run twin 50AT MK's, 12 volt units, in series on 24V.
I am using the Kipawa props and find them a huge improvement.
The AT's are also a resistor speed control which I have bypassed. Run two new 8 gauge wires down to the brush assembly for less line loss, you can just remove all of the OEM wires. I run a Hyundai golf cart controller for speed control, cheap on Ebay, they are a Curtis knock off and easy to hook up. It will run 24 to 36 volts and I have over voltaged the MK's to the full 24V with no ill effects on the motors, but would not recommend it for long full power runs. If you want, there are 24 volt armatures available as replacement parts. 
All in all the MK's can be a good value motor. If you look around you can find them cheap as well, I got mine for 50 bucks each at a marina garage sale, clean out. watch ebay for golf cart controllers, again mine was only 100 bucks.
Just a bit of info for those interested.
Cheers,
 

"an MK 36lb thrust is about 400w, a 55lb unit about 600w.
just tried a kipawa 314 on my 36lb thrust MK, its definitely nicer-faster.
thinking upping to the 55lb thrust MK I have and getting a kipawa 358,
it might or not perform any better than the 36lb thrust honestly, I'd be
adding another 65-70lb 12v battery for longer runtime.
50% more power, so it might spin up a little faster, but a bit more weight.
 
these are "endura" units, they're cheep... really cheep..
they use resistor coils and the switches DO get hot on high speed.
same speed control switch in all of em too, darnit. MK's tech told me,
I was asking if a 55lb switch would solve the heat-up problem.
 
I've put in two BIG roller-lever cam actuated microswitches,
in high speed they parallel share the voltage-current to feed the motor.
it solved the problem of the stock switch heating up robbing power.
the speed control switch is in the dashboard, not stock housing,
so I had some room to do that kinda stuff. rope and pulley steering etc.
 
PWM electronic speed controllers are lots better, but lots spendier too.
I might go to electronic speed control, just ignore the 2 smaller wires,
they just feed the resistor coils that live in the motor casing anyway.
 
the 36lb with stock prop, first I'd boiled the blades for an extra 1/8" twist-pitch,
carefully measuring-marking as I went.. it improved speed a good little bit.
cant tweek em too much, rpm's will fall, current draw will go up lots.
I think the kipawa 3 blade prop is much better on it.
(wish I'd just gone straight to the kipawa)
 
between the BIG micro-switches sharing the current to feed the motor,
and the kipawa 314 on the MK 36, its moving pretty good at speed 5.
 
before I'd got the kipawa prop,
tried an MK "weedless wedge", for me it was disappointing.
having more blade surface area and diameter, less pitch,
it'd probably move a heavier boat better than the stock MK "speed prop",
less prop slip, but.. no legs for running! it was cheep thru amazon-dot-com anyway.
(for a heavier slower boat the weedless wedge probably a good idea)
 
the boat is 12ft, 12v throughout, if I could find and afford 15v worth of lipo4 for it, I'd take that small risk of 20-25% over-voltage, but it probably wouldnt do even 10% more speed.
(also seen 16v "racing" batteries, gel-mat type, hmmm....)
 
the boat fully loaded might be 530 lbs total with 2 aboard, a shorter "planless" rendering of a henley slipper launch seen at duckworks. had I known more I'd gone 19-21 ft length, I'm sure it'd cruised faster-easier for the longer waterline. something light, narrow, and long,
oughtta scoot pretty decent on 5-600 watts worth of trolling motor + kipawa prop.
"decent" being a solid 5 to 6 mph. big frieghter canoe category pretty much.
 
you'd said 500 watts so theres what I know now, hope its a good read.
500 watts is right in the trolling motor ballpark, about 45lbs thrust.
(MK = Minn-Kota)"



 
mattelderca

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