Hi, Ken, slightly relative. As a matter of fact, being in Canada, the
supply of cool water is probably assured for me in all but the most
shallow local water. And I had already intended such a system, but I was
thinking more of a minutely small wind pump that could maybe be hung
over the stern, with a small eccentric crank and a rod that
moves/oscillates vertically just like an old USA farm pump. I was also
thinking of it more to get rid of humidity moisture in the cabin using
condensation as well as cooling a little. A side effect is that it might
also produce a cup or two of fresh water a day.
But my query remains relative to refrigeration, re using a car
unit/system geared down and rotating slowly via a windmill, to produce a
cool cabinet to keep my coffee cream fresh, preferably while not
depleting my limited electrical storage. If the power requirements are
small enough, it could have a small electrical motor drive, as well as
maybe pedal or hand crank power as well.
Or, might it be enough to just get a tube over the side down below the
warmer water, (I believe that there are 'levels' where warm meets cold)
and have it circulating up and through an insulated box? This might be a
possibility for me where I currently am, but not as reliable, and of
little use in locations where the water is warmer all year.
Maybe I have to become a cream technician! It would be nice to get it
cool enough to keep for a week or so together with some bacon and eggs.
I suppose that the question might be better answered here:
http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/forum.php
But it looks too intimidating for me!
Especially as this is not a pressing subject for me right now, but more
a 'keep in mind while planning other things' as it might impact the
interior layout that I have just started on, in the boat.
As for cooling a Peltier by making a through-hull, I am currently
removing and patching over no less than 5 poorly designed through hull
fittings that would not pass modern specs (my boat is a 1957 one) so
maybe a better idea would be a circulating system set up to safely
gravity drain if disabled in any way, rather than creating potential
weaknesses. With a sailboat, the cockpit (or sealed and adjacent to it)
is an obvious self-draining place where things could be set up.
John
1.3. Re: 12V Accessories (Refrigeration)
Posted by: "KEN" [1]rekkamurd@yahoo.com rekkamurd
Date: Wed Oct 24, 2012 7:23 am ((PDT))
maybe relative in a way?
last year I'd connected a 12v 1 GPM 0.32A pump through a 6x9" automotive
heater
core,
with two 3.5" 12v 0.25A 45 CFM computer case fans pulling air through
the heater
core.
on a 100 degree day, 85 degrees of lake cooled air is noticeably nicer,
at about
0.8A.
80-90 CFM of air can change-cool a 5x6x6 (180 cu ft) cabin about once
every 2 mi
nutes,
in my slow little electric runabout toy, sitting in near chest deep
cooler air h
elps lots.
(the bow and bench seat area might be 35-40 cu ft total with the fans
straight a
t ya)
the 1 GPM pump, probably changes out that heater core 10x a minute or
more, and
if the lake temp is 70-75 F, air out being about 10 degrees more, still
nicer th
an 100+. it'd probably cool even moreso if there were 2 cores stacked
for 4" thi
ck off the same pump, but that'd also be a little extra with its
plumbing (not a
nything difficult).
in freshwater, a through hull water cooled heatsink might do good things
with pe
ltier?
passive solid, or pumped water (at cost to batteries of course), its
pretty easy
for me to visualize making the cooler latch in to make the physical
contact req
uired. dont they lower temp internal to what they see as temp external?
(I'm sur
e no expert!) if they drop temp about 40F, then starting at 70-75F would
be near
er frozen than it seeing 90F.
not that it matters to me that only goes out half a day or so, where a
gallon ju
g or a couple 2 liter bottles frozen solid in a typical ice chest lasts
plenty l
ong enough.
References
1.
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