Double the power, yes, but it's my understanding that the HEAT comes from the AMPS (could be wrong). However considering the cost of the mods and the uncertainty of the outcome, it might be better to simply get a 24v unit. My canoe should fairly fly!
Willie
--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "cire" <cirejay@...> wrote:
>
> You still will have doubled your power - watts.
>
> eric SV Meander
>
> --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "stmbtwle" <stmbtwle@> wrote:
> >
> > Aye, there's the rub. Paddling a loaded canoe five miles against the tide is not my idea of fun; if it were I wouldn't bother with the motor!
> >
> > If I were to keep the total amps to no more than the motor was designed for (say with a circuit breaker) could I avoid this?
> >
> > Willie
> >
> > --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, George Schnellman <vectorges@> wrote:
> > >
> > > DC motors are very forgiving of the voltage supplied. at no-load the rpm
> > > will be directly proportional to the voltage., Double the voltage and you
> > > double the rpm. Triple the voltage and you triple the rpm. This holds right
> > > to the point 2 nanoseconds before the armature gets too hot and melts and
> > > the operator says, "Wow, I didn't see that coming".
> > >
> > > Be careful how much voltage you apply. Generally you will shorten the life
> > > of your equipment. It would not be fun to be an hour into a cruise and have
> > > the motor melt and have to paddle back.
> > >
Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (23) |
No comments:
Post a Comment