Since the case is sealed, and any connectors would be internal - I'm betting it's FETs rather than connectors - but Dennis has probably taken apart infinitely more Minn-Kotas than I have at this point (which would be *none* <yet> for me).
I like his suggestions, and just need to find time to try them out.... :)
From: Carel Ruysink <c.ruysink@hetnet.nl>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, June 17, 2013 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Minnkotas
Big chance the heat is coming from the FETs that controll the current, they can and will get rather hot, if you suspect the connectors (wich is possible) it is cheaper and quicker to solder them.
Only think of goldconnectors if you disconnect them rather frequently in harsh conditions (or high end audio) IMHO.
BTW The powercontrol im PWM (Pulse With Modulation) is by variing the time on/time of WITHIN one cycle of the the used frequency.
More sofisticated controllers also vary the frequency from low power to high power to overcome some unwanted habits of the controller. Irritating humming at low power and heatproduction from the many induced startpulses (what is the correct english technical frase?)
Carel
----- Original Message -----From: Dennis WolfeSent: Monday, June 17, 2013 4:11 PMSubject: Re: [Electric Boats] MinnkotasThe heat you are feeling in the head is resistance losses from the cheap connectors. These can be replaced with gold plated bllet connectors for a few dollars. If your 'experimental' prop draws less or rhe same amps as the stock setup with the boat tied to the dock you are good for long term life.
Again, I was able to double range on my 18' sailboat by fairing the motor tube and using a 10x6 prop.
On Sunday, June 16, 2013, oak wrote:
FYI... When I did my testing on the Traxxis 80 Minn-Kota, I noticed that the control head got pretty darn hot to the touch after running for about 45 min at mostly 75% to 100% speed. So be careful! :)
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