Friday, June 3, 2011

[Electric Boats] Re: Re Charging controllers. amps - supplemental to 'amps explained'

 

I can help on the solar panels part. Or at least add some thoughts. I've played with wind generators and solar panels for many years.

I haven't followed this thread, but any installation of solar panels should also require a controller, plus a spare. Controllers run anywhere from $20 to over $600. (I have one at a cabin in the $500 range for a home-made wind generator.) Usually controllers in the $20-$60 range will work fine on a boat. Make sure the maximum output of all of your solar panels does not exceed the maximum capacity of the controller. Panel output is usually in volts or watts. And the controller ratings are usually in amps.

(Note: a panel with an 18 volt output is fine for 12 volt batteries. Lead-acid batteries can be charged to 17 volts. AGM batteries can't take anything at or over 15 volts. A controller keeps the batteries from over-charging.)

(Off subject: Wind generators work great on boats. But they do produce a lot of noise. It's also a good idea to stay away from using a vehicle alternator as a wind generator. They don't turn fast enough in the wind to produce much current, and they can drain your batteries instead of charging them.)

I've heard pros and cons about AGM (gel type) batteries. It appears that their big drawback is that they are sensitive to over-charging. I've stayed away from them. The state of Alaska has done several studies on wind and solar powered systems. They are a good reference for panels and batteries. (Naturally, I couldn't find the link when looking for it just now.)

Locations on where to install panels on a sailboat are endless. The glass panel cover can be replaced with Lexan or something from your hardware store to allow walking on them. Make sure that it is sealed well. Glass breaks easy on a boat. You can also purchase flexible roll-up solar pads, which are far more expensive. A solar panel will produce electricity on a rainy or a cloudy day.

Excellent places for solar panels is on top of Bimini covers, or on cabin tops, or attached to life-lines with a support strut of some sort. Use good judgment about putting them where you walk or stand, and make sure they can standup your weight.

Make sure your panels are weather proof. Unsealed panels will short out like any other electrical device. (I have a great set of 18 volt panels that I bought with all kinds of attachments for recharging just about anything. But they can't get wet.)

Making your own panels. People do it. But I don't have any experience with it. I've heard of problems getting good connections between the cells. Evidently, there is an art to making a solar panel.

Hope that I've helped some.

Lloyd

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "John Green" <v_2jgree@...> wrote:
>
>
> Hi, Thanks everyone for the responses.
> One of the advantages of getting group emails in daily bulk form is that
> I have a chance to consider things while waiting.
> The charging is maybe a non-issue, as I cannot yet sail, so for the next
> 2 yrs maybe, I am probably limited in range by my own fear! And for this
> year, any elecric drive will be in the dinghy as a test bed.
> So, I have time to tread softly with what I do.
> I had never even considered that glass type might block solar
> performance.
> I prefer not to festoon the boat, which is old style, with a myriad of
> panels. But I would if (when maybe?) I was intending voyaging any good
> distance.
> I have found another good location for a panel. There is a small rear
> deck area, and I have already blanked off some vent holes that were
> obstructions, as well as no longer needed for the now unused berths
> below the cockpit seats, so now have an expanse of unused rear deck
> area. And of course, the cabin top between the low raised moulded rails
> that the hatch slides on. Maybe enough space, without looking like a
> spaceship, to have 15 watts total.
> My usage will be small for at least the next 2 years, a few interior
> lights (LED) and maybe LED navigation lights, as well as the expected
> few minutes of propulsion each useage of the boat.
> After reading responses, I have to divert my main thinking over to
> solar, from wind. This is for my initial setup only.
> # 1 job will be to maintain the batteries to keep them from failure.
> With only 2 batteries, hauling them home will be an option, but one I
> will try to avoid. But good to have things covered.
> Any range increase if occurring can be done using either the outboard
> (Yecch, stinky) or a small 4 stroke generator, probably home built,
> using two alternators, one for each 12v battery. But I will not be
> bothering with generators to start with, as I can better use the cash
> and time in getting more solar capacity somehow. Making panels? Hmm,
> that might be good for custom fitting (and hiding) of panels. I could
> probably double the capacity that way.
> So, thanks for the extra knowledge, I can now let the thing develop
> naturally. I will start with one 5 watt panel, a small cheap low tech
> charge controller (with the intention of it being relegated to backup
> later on) and can parallel the batteries when absent, and the panel is
> hooked up.
> The driving force after that will be a need to not have to get set up to
> use the ice generation means.
> I am actually in great shape as far as schedule goes. I am developing
> some sources for motors, I hope. The dinghy is now painted. And summer
> only just started. I can't wait to see how it will work, being a minimal
> system, instead of competing with ICE engines. And if there are snags, I
> just got myself a permanently electric dinghy. Win-win.
> Thanks again,
> John
>
> --
> http://www.fastmail.fm - A no graphics, no pop-ups email service
>

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