I would be inclined to disagree on the point of the cheapest route to batteries
12v automotive batteries are very low cell size and tend to be easily burned up
6 volt traction batteries are industrial batteries and are heavy lead plates and large cells will take far more abuse like for propulsion (forklifts cycle their batteries once a day and last for several years)
12v automotive batteries are very low cell size and tend to be easily burned up
6 volt traction batteries are industrial batteries and are heavy lead plates and large cells will take far more abuse like for propulsion (forklifts cycle their batteries once a day and last for several years)
12v automotive type batteries are design for light periodic use only
true traction types come in a variety of sizes and voltages but nothing as small as a car battery
true traction types come in a variety of sizes and voltages but nothing as small as a car battery
---In electricboats@{{emailDomain}}, <oak_box@...> wrote:
(To the rest of the group - PLEASE challenge this if you disagree with the logic!!)
Matt,
What is your situation in terms of the location you're in, how far you need to motor, current, tides, and exposure to potentially bad weather?
For your conversion, you may find that one of the most expensive components, and most variable in cost - is the battery bank.
Assuming you go with a 48V system....
The cheapest and easiest option is to get 4 deep cycle 12V batteries, and the cheapest trickle charger you can find. This will set you back about $500-600. Thundersky has an inexpensive 48V charger that works, and charges at low current, so you will need to be patient. :)
HOWEVER - the reality is that deep cycle batteries really won't work very well at all with an electric motor system. They don't hold up well at all to being drawn down heavily, and don't have much capacity.
AGM batteries are better.
Lithium is probably what you should really go for - but also can be a VERY expensive solution.
An option here - is to go Lithium, but just start with a very small (low amp hour) lithium bank. As you have more $$ available, you can later add more Li banks in parallel, or save your "small" initial bank as a "backup".
This assumes:
1) That your motoring is MOSTLY (at least at first) just to get you in and out of a marina - that you will mostly SAIL the boat.
2) That you will (at least at first) stay in reasonably protected waters where you won't NEED to have a dependence on a long motoring cycle at high power (to overcome strong waves, wind, or current).
To suppliment, if you spend a little more on the charging system, and the charing system is able to put out reasonably high power, you can possibly find a cheap old generator to power the charger if you do get stuck.
In other words - be careful, don't go out if conditions aren't great, and this works much better on protected lakes where the marina is "right there", than on "big water" where you have to motor a lot or deal with currents / tides / wind / etc...
If this isn't your situation, you may want to reconsider things. An electric solution that has plenty of margin for longer motoring simply isn't cheap. No two ways about it.
Good luck!
John
From: matt strickland <matthew_strickland@...>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 11:03 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] introduction
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 11:03 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] introduction
Hello,
I'm new to the group and joined because I've recently acquired an Alberg 30 as my first boat bigger than a 420, which I will ultimately convert it to electric. As cost is an issue (when isn't it?), I may have to patch up the existing Atomic 4 first. Does anyone have advice on the best ways to get the conversion done at lowest cost, even if it means coming back and upgrading components later on as funds become available? I'd really like to convert now if possible.
Thanks,
Matt
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