I could split the 2 controls, only a 1 minute operation with my back saw. But the motors being that close together (20") there wouldn't be any point in individual thrust control.
I only left enough room for them to clear each other if the tiller were to turn a full 90º.
There were a couple of reasons behind this:
It doesn't show in the photos, but the props are actually set slightly inboard of the stern.
I did that to protect the motors but it ended up creating some issues I didn't expect.
The vessel is intended as a camper and I want to be able to get her as close to shore as possible The motor heads are pretty long, if I pull the motors up for running in shallow water I don't want to run a prop into the hull and/or lose half my thrust pushing water under a 'toon.
There's a lot more radial flex in the aluminum pipe then I ever thought there would be. The closer together I keep the the motors, the more they want to stay parallel, (less pipe to twist.)
The center truss supporting the pipe is a lot stronger then the mountings at the 'toon ends.
I'll need to upgrade the monitoring when the solar and wind system goes in, but the Minn Kota's are pretty much "meat and potatoes". The speed controls have fixed settings. (5 forward and 3 reverse) There really isn't anything I can do if one motor draws more current then the other so an ammeter on the motors seemed pointless.
From: Femm <femmpaws@yahoo.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, October 14, 2011 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] That pontoon boat project.
| I was looking at your install and was wondering why you linked the controls together? If they were moved closer to the pontoons and split the controls you would have better maneuverability for docking. But I do understand the reason to keep it simple. To make sure they are both drawing the same power you could put in a pair of inline Amp meters. femm
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