T-Pain Is On A Boat: Re: [Electric Boats] 30 ft C&C/ Colombia 30

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Re: [Electric Boats] 30 ft C&C/ Colombia 30

Dear Captain Bob,

The reduction will be twice what the locked wheel method produces, back to the original ratio.

In your application, this is the wrong direction to go if you're using the original prop, but should provide you with a longer service life.

Be Well,

Arby

On Jan 22, 2012, at 8:53 PM, Arby Bernt <arbybernt@yahoo.com> wrote:

Dear Captain Bob,
The problem with fixing one wheel it that the spider gears will be forced to rotate. They're typically bushed, not roller bearings, and not designed for long rotating life. Welding the spiders to diff locks both wheels, allowing only the intended gears to move in the reduction.
Problem is, if you loose the spider gears, you'll torpedo the rest of the gear train with metal particles. So much for a free drive. Weld the spiders, and the system will last a lot longer.

Be Well,
Arby

On Jan 22, 2012, at 6:56 PM, Robert Jorgenson <falcolnxp@yahoo.com> wrote:

Arby,
will the reduction factor be the same with locking outboard side of the shafts?
not sure why mechanic had me lock outboard end of one shaft rather than in the differendial.
seems like you idea saves a couple of pounds and gives me one less wear point
SIMPLE IS BEST
capt bob

From: Arby Bernt <arbybernt@yahoo.com>
To: "electricboats@yahoogroups.com" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 22, 2012 11:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] 30 ft C&C/ Colombia 30

Dear Captain Bob,
Consider opening the differential and welding the spider gears.
This will "lock" your differential.
Two things will benefit you;
1) Your drive output speed will drop to half your current set-up with one side of the diff held tight. Slow steep props are usually more efficient.
2) Your drive efficiency will be higher since your just be using the large gears in normal reduction. The spider gears aren't designed for extensive wear, just a little rotation to compensate for the different rotation rates when cornering.
3) Down side is the reduction factor. Most golf carts use 13:1 reduction, fine for the golf coarse, but pretty low for driving a boat. A big steep 3 or 4 blade prop will help.

Be Well,
Arby

On Jan 21, 2012, at 7:12 PM, Robert Jorgenson <falcolnxp@yahoo.com> wrote:

Shockwave is a 30 ft Colombia displacing 10,500 lbs plus
Pulled the Palmer C60 22 hp motor (have spare parts new head and head gasket, water pump rebuilt . carb alternator started excellent rest is in good serviceable condition except for block. sell at cost )
Was given golf cart with 36 v Charger (traded cart, except charger for electrical advice
bought a golf cart with a 11 hp DC motor 48V . $100.00 (sold extra parts for $50.00 plus $200.00 of labor +++++)
36Volt charger for sale (for lead acid) $200.00
Stabalized one side of rear end $10.00
other side goes directy to drive shaft with a lovejoy ??sp connector $55.00 parts and machine work
will use golf cart controller
bought 48 volt lithium set of batteries and 110 charger & 220 charger List $5.000 (six months old My cost $2,300 including shipping
Batteries and charging system $2,300.00
Misc cost including motor $ 115.00
______________________________________
total so far $2,415.00 plus my neighbors injanuity and time.

Could have used 3 12v Wallmart batteries and and my total cost to date would have been $465.00 for a 36 v system which would have given me about 75% power for 1 hr for 2 to 4 years
vs
100% power for 1 1/2 hours for 8 to 10 years.
A little bit of extra power cost big bucks

I am 71 y/o so figured out a method of financing my batteries after reading an article in Money Magazine.

I Live in a moderate part of town where garage sales are popular.
My clean up the yard and garage sale has neted $2.332.00 in the past 5 days. Had five claassic cars and an airplane which I traded for the SHOCKWAVE" plus a 21 ft. Mcgregor which was sold doring my clean up sale.
My wife and neighbors or estatic about the clean up sales success so far.
Traded one of my classic cars for a one ton 89 chevy pick-up to pull my 6 ton plus boat SHOCKWAVE

LOOKING FOR A PROPELLER WITH SHAFT AND NEEDED EXTRA PARTS TO PUT IN MY 17 FT FLAT BOTTOM BOAT.
Will use battery system from SHOCKWAVE to furnish power so cost should be nominal,
CONSIDERING building a 1938 Mecedes Maurlaine car with 48 v power.
Your comments and suggestion will be given careful consideration.
Capt Bob
Blanding, UT 84511
435 678 3436

From: erik_riffel <erik_riffel@yahoo.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 20, 2012 5:14 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] 30 ft C&C

Hello Richard!

Just Joined the group and am looking for direction to power a 30ft Redwing. I am looking at the Thunderstruck Sail Boat Kit withthe Gear reduction. I only need to get about an hour under power at most in poor conditions. In you opinion is this a good thought? Would you mind sharing some photos of your conversion?

All the best!