Hi, Bob. A bronze prop isnt going to "hold an edge" very long, if you are trying to cut crabtrap floats loose with it but a nicely beveled edge should be just a hair more efficient, cutting through the water. Remember, cut water, not trap warps lol. A stainless steel prop you might get some joy out of that. But bronze, I wouldn't try to put more than a 45 degree bevel on it. A file will work fine. Dont need a dremel. In fact you can do a better job with a file. A dremel will leave all sorts of digs and divots and other oopsies.
I just changed my prop. My motor was not loading with the little 12" 2 blade folder... I only got about 65 amps from my 48v bank into the controller at max throttle, measured across a shunt in the neg side. Now with the 3 blade 14x10 I can twist the throttle knob and immediately peg the 100a meter... probably pulling about 130a which is well over the sustained rating for the motor. I am thinking I should switch from 2:1 reduction to 3:1. But anyway the prop and a spare were both given to me right before i was going to get a bottom job anyhow, so I installed the better of the two, knocked off the barnacles, wire wheeled it, and took a file to the edges, yeah. I always do that, unless I am taking it to a prop shop which I did with the more chewed up one. I doubt if you can really notice the difference, between filing the edges to a bevel and just smoothing them, but I think there must be some difference so I do it. Just dont make the edges too thin and fragile. You might hit a croaker or a trout or a shrimp or something and whack up that razor edge lol.
Notice when you get a prop back from the shop, there is always a bevel on the leading edges.
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