Sunday, November 13, 2011

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Where to even start

 

I agree not to skimp on the pot that is controlling your motor and make sure it can operate in the enviornment you are operating in. The control that came with my ASMO Marine Thoosa 9000 system is a pretty robust design. You can see some photo's of it here and where I installed it:
You don't want the control failing you when you need it most so a good control is money well spent.
 
 
Capt. Mike
 

From: Carter Quillen <twowheelinguy@yahoo.com>
To: "electricboats@yahoogroups.com" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2011 9:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Where to even start

 
Here are some old style brush motor systems for even less. http://www.evdrives.com/kits_conversion.html . The only thing I can see that is questionable about some of this stuff is that not all of the components meet the mimimum standards for marine use. I would recommend researching and finding a nice marine grade trottle for whatever motor and controller you choose. I've heard the weak link in many systems is often the potentiomenter in the trottle so it's probably not a component to scrimp on.
 
I bought the 10C kit from evdrives because of the torqe rating and low rpms at 48Volts plus the thing is American made and is simpler technology. I also have to admit this system was the biggest and best I could find at the time that also met my very limited budget. If I had more money I think I would have gotten the Agni motor. The D&D motors seem more like traditional golf cart motors and many of the controls and relay switches are used for golf cart applications which makes them more common and less expensive. And most of that golf cart technology has demonstrated history of taking a lickin and keepin on tickin. The relay and controller I got  looked fine for  marine use but the trottle was totally inadequate and I'm looking for somthing better. The motor is constructed mostly of alumimum and copper but the bolts where all mild steel and I plan to replace them with stainless before installation.
 
It was hard to decide what hardware to pick but in the end my decisions were heavily influenced by my limited budget. Some of the more expensive stuff is a lot nicer but not always proportionally to the difference in cost. Golf cart technology seems well proven and a good low cost bet but time and experience will tell.
 
 
 
 
 
 

From: Chris Guldi <cxguldi@gmail.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2011 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Where to even start



The PHRF rating of this boat is comparable to the other boats in the local club. I am more interested in the experience I will gain racing then winning any races.

I have raced as crew on a boat that the skipper considers the day a failure if he fires up the outboard. He pushed the 30' boat out of the slip by hand and sails back into it. The Albin was only a 20HP, according to the paperwork I have it was an upgrade from the atomic 4 though had less power. I was going to sell it as scrap but enough people have suggested selling it that I will put it in my garage clean it up a bit and sell it on ebay.

One burning question I have, why is this system so much less expensive then everything else out there? What's missing?

http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=146

On Sat, Nov 12, 2011 at 10:26 AM, Carter Quillen <twowheelinguy@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
Chris,
 
Columbias are great boats and if I recall correctly, if it's a Bill Tripp designed C36 it's the one with the aft cabin layout, NICE!

These boats where built for comfort and not speed so good luck with that club racing thing, lol. Hopefully you'll have a nice handycap because you'll need it.  I had a Bill Tripp designed C34 for years and loved it but it was NOT fast. It handled well in light air but traveled in slow motion until the wind picked up to about 15 or 20 knots, then the boat really came into its own. They are built like battleships. If you haven't found it already check our www.columbia-yacht.com. It has all the history of Columbia with specs and liturature on every boat they ever made.
 
Sell the Albin! It's worth some money.  A friend of mine just rebuilt his for another C34.  All the parts are still available and it is a bruiser of a diesel, real marine grade stuff.
 
Don't quibble between 8 or 9 hp, nominally they're pretty much the same thing and both would be a bit undersized for a C36 in my opinion. This may not be a problem if you're a diehard sailor that shuns your auxillary in all but the calmest of conditions but if you ever want to use it to get out of trouble in some heavy weather, you will come up short. I had a 30hp yanmar in my C34 and there were times when I used every bit of it and wished I had more. It was actually a bit bigger than it really needed to be for that boat but I wouldn't have put anything less than 20 hp in it and I've seen several C34s with motors as big as a Perkins 4-108(50hp) in them.  Both the C34 and C36 have a lot of freeboard and my C34 could make a full 2 knots downwind with no sails up, just being pushed by the wind against the boats profile. In heavy weather it takes some hp to move that boat where YOU want it go instead of where the ocean wants to wash it. But, like a said,  real "SAILORS" don't even need no stinkin auxillary, that's what the sails are there for, lol.  
 
Good luck with your project, it should be a lot of fun.
 
Carter
 
 
From: Chris Guldi <cxguldi@gmail.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2011 7:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Where to even start



Thanks Eric, it actually didn't occur to me to get the group to help with specific system design and I am not sure why not? We have a 1970 Columbia 36 displacement is stated as 13000 pounds. We were power boaters because my wife wasn't interested in sail, got her on a sail boat and the power boat went up for sale. The plan for the boat is to use it for club racing, day sailing ans the occasional overnight with the kids. I suspect most of its sailing will be club racing.
I am fairly certain that I will be looking for a motor around 8kw and that is about all I am certain. The Asmo dealer recommended their 9kw motor but I suspect that's because they don't have an 8.
On Nov 12, 2011 2:34 AM, "Eric" <ewdysar@yahoo.com> wrote:
 
Hi Chris,

I would suggest that you start a little higher up by describing your boat and how you expect to use it. Virtually all of the questions that you asked are influenced by these basic questions. The type of boat that you have will dictate different answers. How you use the boat will change your answers as well. So you might as well start at the beginning rather than jump around between random details that will become relevent later.

While every installation has a few choices to be made, the boat and your use case will define many of your system attributes.

Fair winds,
Eric
Marina del Rey, CA

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "Chris" <cxguldi@...> wrote:
>
> I have been lurking for a while and learning as I find the time to read. I have a list of specific questions that I should take the time to write down as every time I read something a new question pops up. Some of the stuff doesn't seem appropriate for this list as it seems most are well beyond my level of knowledge. Is there a good primer? What can I read to learn the basics, I mean the very basics... things like why choose 48v or 72v, or something different? How do you determine prop size? How do I determine hull speed RPM for my prop to determine gear reduction? How do I determine number of amp/hours needed and how do I size the battery bank?
>
> I am committed to an electric boat so much so that my diesel is on the bed of the truck right now. I probably need to make a purchase soon if I want to be in the water in the spring but feel woefully uneducated as a consumer. So uneducated that I can't make a purchase decision at this time.
>
> Oh, and what do I do with an old Albin diesel? sell it for scrap?
>








--
Chris Guldi
 
 







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