Monday, July 28, 2014

Re: [Electric Boats] Electric Risør 27

 

Air conditioner compressor pumps have electric clutches to allow the pulley to freewheel.

On Jul 27, 2014, at 10:42 AM, "Bendik Vignes bendik.vignes@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hi!
Do any of you have suggestions for the power transmission system from the electric motor to the propeller shaft (hybrid system)? 
My best idea so far is to use a v-belt and a system where I can release/thighten the belt's tension (remote controlled via a wire). Thus I can operate in three modes: 
1. Electric only. 
2. Diesel + electric. (propulsion & battery charging) 
3. Diesel only. (the belt tension should be released or else I am afraid the diesel engine's gearbox will be damaged if the electric motor's rotation produces a torque on the propeller shaft when shifting between reverse/forward)

Estimated data:
Pully diameter: approx 160mm and 100mm
Center to center distance: approx 400mm
Peak power: approx 15-20kW
Continous power: approx 2kW

Regards 
Bendik


2014-07-06 8:24 GMT+02:00 Bendik Vignes <bendik.vignes@yahoo.com>:
Hi!
I just discovered the boost converter-solution myself, but thanks for the hints! ;-)
I have not found suitable solar boost charger so far, but I am wondering if this one can do the job (12V-80V,600W): http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DC-DC-600W-10-60V-to-12-80V-Boost-Converter-Step-up-Module-Power-Supply-/271271664247?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f290d1a77 
I see two solutions:
Either to connected the boost converter between the solar controllers (for example 24V) and the battery (in parallell over the battery to achieve up to 160V). But I dont know if this set up can charge batteries, I would expect some need for voltage regulation since the Nicd cells rise from 6V to 8.15V during charging.
The other solution is to make a 24V battery from the Nicds - and connect the boost converter between the battery and the motor to increase the voltage to 120V. Then there will be needed around 40 of these boost converters (connected in series/parallell) to handle the peak power demand of approx 20kW.
I dont know if this will work, and I dont know if the efficiency of the boost converter vil drop dramatically when converting such large voltage step-ups. I better send the manufacturer a question... or I can buy a couple of them and test for my self. But how can a constant current source like a solar panel be imitated?

Lots of ?
I have started to repeat electric curcuit theory, but things take time with three small kids around ;-)

Bendik


2014-06-25 3:12 GMT+02:00 withaar@wylch.fastmail.fm [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>:

 

You need a "boost converter".

E.g.: http://www.electroschematics.com/9718/solar-boost-converter-mppt-charge-controller/

A search on "solar panel boost converter" should get you some results.

Willem




On 14-06-20 11:51 PM, Bendik Vignes bendik.vignes@yahoo.com [electricboats] wrote:
 
Are there any solar controller/charger for converting the low voltage signal from solar panels (several "12V"-panels i parallell) to a high voltage battery (120V).
Transformation from 12 to 120 volts should i theory not be a big deal, but I cant find solar controller/chargers for this purpose. Do any of you know?
Bendik 


2014-06-19 10:39 GMT+02:00 Bendik Vignes <bendik.vignes@yahoo.com>:
Here is a picture.of my boat. Not a beautiful one, but really nice for the family and it did not cost me a fortune:-)

On the front cabin roof there is space for five 0,5m2 panels. On the back cabin roof it space for one panel. And possibly one panel one each side of the boat (under the window)
Should all be connected in parallell I think...


2014-06-17 17:25 GMT+02:00 James Sizemore yamez4u@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>:

 
I'll be very interested in your Think drive train project.  

There are a couple of  SolbianFlex clones out there that use the same cells but at a much more "reasonable" price:


They may both be the same panel just re-branded by Grape. I have installed the Sacred ones on my boat and they do put out there rated power.
I do "walk" on them but only barefoot and very gingerly. At three hundred dollars a panel,  they are much cheaper then Solbian, but still expensive enough that I would not like to replace any!    

Two things to note.  First they did not use stainless steal for the through holes and second dealing with the top mounted connectors ascetically  is challenging to say the least.  Here are pictures of my install with the finger ducts I used to hide the top mount connectors: 


On Jun 17, 2014, at 8:14 AM, Bendik Vignes bendik.vignes@yahoo.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Hi!
I live in Arendal, Norway, and I am new to this group. I dont have experience with these yahoo groups so sorry if I act a bit clumsy.

I am working on a electric propulsion boat project: 
It is a 27 feet "yacht" (Risør 27) from the early seventies. Displacement hull. 3500kg
Now it has a 1964 Mercedes OM636 diesel engine. Still works OK.
I bought the boat last summer and rather quickly I started to think about conversion to electric/hybrid.

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Posted by: Bruce Wilder <brucewild@gmail.com>
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