Ken,
It should work fine, as long as YOU NEVER MESS UP throwing the switches! :)
In theory, you could accomplish the same thing with DPDT relays, and then have a single switch to throw that would hopefully always correctly configure them all. Of course, it might take extra relays to ensure a failsafe condition in the event of relay failure... But probably in the event of a catastrophic relay failure, you'd blow out the relay contacts fast enough that it wouldn't damage anything else....
Bottom line, YOUR solution should work fine as long as you never make a mistake.
I would probably rather invest in multiple small chargers so that I didn't have to worry as much about messing up. Or, charge in series and invest in smaller numbers of higher voltage chargers, and monitor the individual battery voltages so that you know everything is ok.
John
From: Kenneth Reese <kcr@kcrproducts.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 11:01 AM
Subject: [Electric Boats] Battery Charging
Just to put my two cents in...
I use 4 batteries. I connect 2 together, with a double pole, double throw switch; this allows me to switch them from serial to parallel. At this point I have 2 battery banks (each bank has two 12v batteries). The switch output is either 24v or 12v, dependent on position. For this first switch, I used a 4 pole (double throw) 60A switch instead of two double pole, double throw switches. Either way works, but I use the single switch since I don't need 36v and one switch is just easier.
I then take the outputs (12v or 24v dependent on switch position) and run them to a second double pole, double throw switch (also 60A). The output is either serial to parallel, dependent on switch positions.
With this configuration the Switch options are...
All set to parallel - 12v, 60 x 12 = 720 watts ( this is the default setting I use for charging and general living )
First Switch set to serial, second parallel - 24v, 60 x 24 = 1440 watts ( this I use for low speed cruising )
First and Second switch set to serial - 48v, 60 x 48 = 2880 watts ( this I use for normal cruising )
The second switch is the current limiter; since upstream from it, the current is split in half.
100A and 125A switches are also available (total power = 125A x 48V = 6000watts.
Anybody else do this?
It works well for me.
Ken
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