you cant run the shaft dry. the cutlass bearing needs water lubrication, the sound you hear is rubber galling on the shaft
mike
--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, Robert Jorgenson <falcolnxp@...> wrote:
>
> My coronado 30 is 10500 lbs with two 24 v lithion ion battery packs
> my gas generator puts out 1500 volts continious
> the charger is designed to charge at 54 v, (it is adjustable for volts and amps) will check amps with electician in the am
> Boat has not been in the water yet.
> The drive shaft appears to be very noisy about 4 times the decibels of the golf cart it came out of (Propeller shaft appears ro be properly alligned)
> I have a 11 hp general electric dc golf cart motor driving the propeller shaft thur the golf cart transmisssion
> propeller is a 12 Â 13 Â PITCHOME7EN
> Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â ALAMENA
> Is this near the size prop I need? Â What prop size are you useing??
>
> THE ORIGINAL PROP DRIVEN BY MY Â 22hp IH 60 is much smaller
> Â (have many Palmer NOS parts except for the block)
> the controller is a 36 v golf cart controller. Is there a chance I will burn out the controller???
>
> Humbly
> Capt. bobÂ
> Master Skipper Offshore USN
>
> Shockwave
>
> PS I am over 100 miles to nearest water. blanding, Utah 84511
> Plan on trailoring the boat 1200 miles to houston Texas  and doing sea trials gulf of Mexico
> If there is a members house in rout or in the Housten area wold appreciate a shout.
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Eric <ewdysar@...>
> To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2012 6:58 PM
> Subject: [Electric Boats] Re: motoring with ,quickcharge 48/V 25 amp,6V agms,and a honda 2000
>
>
> Â
> I'll assume that you're talking about a Quickcharge SCO4825 Select a charge on-board charger. On their website they provide the following specs, 48V, 25A, 12A@117VAC. If all this is true, then I don't see a problem. But I don't believe these numbers.
>
> Lets look at the energy input, 12A x 117V = 1404W. That's easy enough.
>
> You know that your 6V batteries don't charge at 6V, the peak charge voltage for your AGM batteries is 7.2-7.3V. So your peak pack charging voltage for 8 batteries in series is 57.6V. Let's call it 54V for the bulk of your charging. 25A @ 54V = 1350W. The Quickcharge website doesn't mention the technology that they use, but at the bottom of their promotional PDF, they mention "100% copper transformer heavy duty rectifiers..." These types of chargers have traditionally operated at 80-85% efficiency. So being generous, 1350W output will take only 1600W input (assuming 85% efficiency). 1600W/117V = 13.7A. Not a big deal you say, it's only a difference of 1.7A, but let's read on.
>
> Now let's look at your generator. A Honda eu2000i is rated for 1600W continuous output, so now you're right on the line. If your charger only pulls 13.7A while charging, you're good. But it might pull more. If it does, your Honda will shut itself down when the load getts too high. My Yamaha 2000 will do the same.
>
> Maybe the SCO4825 only puts out 1200W (48Vx25A), if so, then the output at 54V will be around 22A. If that is the case, then the Honda should handle it fairly well, but you won't be getting 25A.
>
> If you have access to one of these chargers, then the simple way to check it's power requiremetns is to run it through a Kill-A-Watt meter while charging your batteries. I have a P3 model, they are available at Radio Shack for less than $30. If you don't have access to the charger, you have to take the manufacturer's word, but their published specs are suspicious to me. At almost $500, that could be an expensive experiment. Of course, if you buy it somewhere with a good return policy, your risk is lower.
>
> I went through the same debate and I chose an Elcon PFC2000+ charger for around $600. The manufacturer specs were more believable and they were able to load a charging profile that was perfect for my LiFePO4 battery pack, AGMs are even simpler. My measured thoughput effieincy is close to 93% with the fully electronic (no transformer) PFC charger. Elcon's spec of 14A@115V nominal input turned out to be right on (as measured with a Kill-A-Watt monitor)during the bulk charge phase for my batteries. This 14A exceeds my Yamaha generator's continuous rating of 13.7A, but I've run the charger for an hour from the generator and it hasn't missed a beat, I would expect the same from a Honda. I've also verified that I'm getting a consistant 27-28A at 55V from the charger/generator combo. This powers my 30' 10,200 lb boat at 4.2-4.3kts without using any battery at all.
>
> Most of the other peoplpe in this group that have electro-motored on their portable generator (Myles, Mike, etc.) are running chargers with lower input/output so their generators are not as close to the limits. So your proposed setup might work, and it might not.
>
> After all of this work, I've never had to use my generator to get home. I motored the boat for an hour on the generator as a proof of concept, and it worked fine, but I've never needed it in real life.
>
> Perhaps someone else in the group has more hands on experience with the specific charger that you're looking for. If so, hopefully, they'll jump in.
>
> Fair winds,
> Eric
> 1964 Bermuda 30 ketch, 5.5kW Propulsion Marine drive, 8kWh Lithium batteries
> Marina del Rey, CA
>
> --- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Falk" <fsailing35@> wrote:
> >
> > anyone using this set up? if so how is it working for you and what charge settings are you using? any info thanks
> >
>
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