The John Deere alternator is designed for a greens mower. I designed the motor for the same project (JD part TCA14327). The alternater will spike output to over 70vdc if you change the load too quickly, over-voltage will then tank your controller.
JD eventually designed a controller to reduce the load gradually and prevent voltage spikes. A second round of replacement controllers have soft stop for overheat as well.
It was a tough learning curve. Four 10Ah AGMs would have saved them Deerely. Keep the alternators connected to a load or stop them to switch the connected bank.
West Marine sells a battery switch with an auxilery set of contacts. The secondary switch breaks the power to the brushes in the alternator. This causes the field to collapse and removes output curent.
My reccomendation would be to wire the alternators directly to the batteries, using dedicated fuses rated at 2x peak load. Don't use a switch, unless you can be certian the fields are unloaded during transfer. Consider someone else trying to get the house bank over, and accidently changing charging circuits under way. You can use a link switch to connect both banks to one alternator without risk.
One note: The alternators may be set up to charge a battery, or they may be set-up for constant voltage output. Six years ago, the system did not use any batteries on their greens mower. Things may have changed. They use a Gortex vent now, for example...
Be Well,
Arby
Has anyone here had any experience with John Deere 48V 90 amp alternators? I am thinking of using one or maybe two on a dedicated diesel ICE for charging a 48V battery bank used for house and propulsion loads of a 40' cruising cat.
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