3D printing is generally NOT perfectly smooth. It should be good enough to at least test the idea, and see how it does. The ABS may be too brittle, and break off immediately when you try to ramp it up in the water. If it seems to work, I would certainly keep a spare handy, and be able to replace it on the water if necessary.
Something else you can do is try coating the propeller with thickened epoxy after printing. If you could buy a bit of Xynol (polyester cloth that can be used instead of fiberglass), embedding that on the blades would make them MUCH stronger! This will add a lot of weight and thickness to the blade. But again, for proof of concept (and to possibly avoid "poof" of concept), it might not be a bad thing to do. I would expect that 3D printing a full size propeller will take a LONNNNNNG time, so you might not want to risk wasting them.
Also, are you printing this as a hub with 2, 3, or 4 blades, or are you attempting to print it as one solid piece?
Best of luck to you, I'd LOVE to hear how this turns out!!
John
From: "dimges@gmail.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2017 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] 3D printed propellers [1 Attachment]
[Attachment(s) from dimges@gmail.com [electricboats] included below]
After a long time, I was relieved of the obligation and now I want to finish two homemade trolling engines for canoe, who stayed in the basement.
The problem was a propeller; homemade engines with a small Sevylor 5" propeller worked smoothly, but were slim for 2 person in canoe if there was contra currents or waves. I made a propulsion test with a Mercury 2HP propeller (7.25" x 4.75 ") but a small The 150w 24V dc engine overclocked, pulled 30amp even at 18V, I did not to try at 24V. I started to modify propeller, decrease the diameter to 146mm, but the problem is it necesarry rounded off the propeller wing ends and possibly balancing propeller. I recently managed to buy a convenient 6 "Watersnake propeller so I would fit it on one of the engines.
For the other engine (120w, 24V) I plan to make a 3d printed propeller; I found a free 3D drawing and processed it, cut it to the required diameter, to the 5.5 "propeller, and also I slightly lowered the propeller pitch.
In addition to the dilemma of the operation of this free drawing propeller, what propeller printing material is questionable? I have an offer of ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene). Otherwise, the wings of this propeller are not as thin as the Watersnake 6 wing, the only question is whether ABS plastic can get a smooth surface of the propeller wing or will I have to glossy or polished propeller wing after 3d printing?
The problem was a propeller; homemade engines with a small Sevylor 5" propeller worked smoothly, but were slim for 2 person in canoe if there was contra currents or waves. I made a propulsion test with a Mercury 2HP propeller (7.25" x 4.75 ") but a small The 150w 24V dc engine overclocked, pulled 30amp even at 18V, I did not to try at 24V. I started to modify propeller, decrease the diameter to 146mm, but the problem is it necesarry rounded off the propeller wing ends and possibly balancing propeller. I recently managed to buy a convenient 6 "Watersnake propeller so I would fit it on one of the engines.
For the other engine (120w, 24V) I plan to make a 3d printed propeller; I found a free 3D drawing and processed it, cut it to the required diameter, to the 5.5 "propeller, and also I slightly lowered the propeller pitch.
In addition to the dilemma of the operation of this free drawing propeller, what propeller printing material is questionable? I have an offer of ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene). Otherwise, the wings of this propeller are not as thin as the Watersnake 6 wing, the only question is whether ABS plastic can get a smooth surface of the propeller wing or will I have to glossy or polished propeller wing after 3d printing?
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Posted by: oak <oak_box@yahoo.com>
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