A minifridge on a boat is not a good idea. They were made to sit still. You would have compressor issues in a short time..
Next problem is they need at least 135 watts. This would pull about12 amps out of your 12 volt system. In theory, in practice it would be more. An inverter from 12 to 120 uses more than 25 amps to start up.
At best you would be able to run the fridge for 4 hours to 50% dod..
My 48 to 12 converter is only rated for 15 amps continuous.
A better bet to keep stuff cool is a portable 12 volt cooler. This still draws 4 amps but there are versions that will go down to 1 degree above freezing.
I know this is discouraging news but hopefully it saved yoy some money by not trying to use stuff that would not work.
Richard
------ Original message------
From: moriartybob@yahoo.com [electricboats]
Date: Wed, Jan 20, 2016 8:46 PM
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com;
Subject:[Electric Boats] 12V DC -> 120V AC vs. 48V DC -> 120V AC
I recently converted the auxiliary propulsion on my boat to an Electroprop system with a 210Ah 48V battery bank.
To keep things simple and (for me) safe, there will be no 120V AC appliances aboard that are run by shorepower.
However, in future coastal cruising I might want to run a cheapo Home Depot (USA) dormitory sized 120V AC refrigerator through an inverter from the battery bank. My "usual" house load will be handled by a 48V DC -> 12V DC converter. But, as I understand it, DC -> DC voltage conversions are inefficient, and I am wondering if a separate 48V DC -> 120V AC inverter for the high-draw refrigerator (and maybe microwave) might be more efficient than a 48V DC -> 12V DC -> 120V AC setup.
Apologies in advance if this is not really an Electric Boat topic.
--Bob Moriarty
Posted by: =?utf-8?B?ZnVsbGtlZWwyMDAwQHlhaG9vLmNh?= <fullkeel2000@yahoo.ca>
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