Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: "L" drive with U-joints test

 

I would note that we are building a prototype longtail for use with a generic 6.5 horsepower gasoline  pump motor. Once we have played with this I would really like to try a longtail with Craig's "Electric Hubcap" motor. 


My main puzzle is priorities. We are a small boatyard in the Philippines. We have to keep our eye on the finances. So many projects, so little time and money. If someone wants to buy one of these "Electric Longtails" we will buy a kit motor from Craig, assemble it, and build a longtail for them  at our cost. After we finish the prototype, which is mostly 3/4 inch plywood, we will move on to carbon fiber and epoxy for the next unit. 

Good clean fun,

Bob La Quey

PS. What safety issues are you thinking about Kevin? 

On Thu, Jun 21, 2012 at 1:25 AM, Kevin Pemberton <pembertonkevin@gmail.com> wrote:
 

I have to agree with Robert. Any change in direction spells a loss of energy. Be it gears belts or U-Joints a straight shot is best for saving that hard earned power supply.

It should be noted that even a long shaft has a loss. Longtails have a safety issue that should be addressed. I would like to see a surface piercing longtail.

Kevin Pemberton


On 06/14/2012 01:28 AM, boblq wrote:
 



Why not get rid of the 90 degree joint as well? Use a Thai longtail. Works like a bomb. Here is example of home brew Philippines variation based on a 6.5 HP pump engine.
http://www.pinoyboats.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2295

Robert La Quey
http://www.facebook.com/TropicalBoats

--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, Craig Carmichael <craig@...> wrote:
>
> Of course U-joints squirm around if they're not held in position, and
> flop to angles that don't operate smoothly. So I tried a little test.
> I put a bearing race on a 1/2" square driveshaft and clamped it down
> (to a piece of "angle bracket" steel, in the corner.) Then the two
> U-joints, then a socket, then a 5/8" SS hex head bolt (somewhat too
> long) for the prop shaft. A 5/8" I.D. pulley served as a "bearing". I
> just held the pulley/prop shaft in position by hand, and turned the
> far end of the square shaft.
>
>
>
> Perhaps unintuitively, it turned pretty smoothly, even if I gripped
> the socket to put a load on the output shaft. I'm not saying there
> was no torque ripple, just that it wasn't really noticeable as I
> turned the shaft. It seems practical and that two U-joints is enough.
> Like others, I almost discarded this simple idea immediately in my
> head when I first thought of it. (KIS principle rides again) Next is
> to make a mounting assembly of some sort.
>
> With only a slightly larger pivot angle, eg 110º (or maybe even 100)
> instead of 90º, or if positioned such that one U-joint was making a
> steeper angle than the other, the torque got noticeably lumpy.
>
> (It's real easy to put a round bearing on a square shaft... get one
> just a bit too small, and grind the corners off the shaft evenly
> until it slips on.)
>
> BTW Somebody mentioned gear reduction... One of the main goals of
> doing an electric outboard from scratch is to get rid of that
> undesirable gear reduction that all the gas outboards seem to have at
> the foot. 1:1 should be pretty close to optimum with the right prop,
> and again building from scratch doesn't limit prop diameter selection.
>
> Cheers,
> Craig
>
> =====
>



__._,_.___
Recent Activity:
.

__,_._,___

No comments:

Post a Comment