Friday, July 5, 2019

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Albin Vega direct drive?

 

I also have a 10 kw motor from thunderstruck that's connected to a browning gear drive. Everything is aligned, new prop shaft & prop. 

I also have some vibration at high rpm but  think what we're hearing/feeling is prop cavitation due to alot of pitch on the prop. My theory is if we size props for maximum thrust at low rpms, you're going to get some feedback at high rpms.  My .02

Bob


On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 12:43 AM, Michael Ryan mryanqld@gmail.com [electricboats]
<electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi
I only ran it briefly so have no idea of the durability of my design. I decided on aluminium for several reasons but mainly due to it being such a good conductor of heat. The motor mount acts as heat sink to draw heat away from the motor. By adding angles it not only stiffens up the plate but increases surface area. The original plate I used to set the motor up was 10mm, I am currently making up a new one out of 6mm plate and angle. The 10mm original one was way over engineered once I stiffened it up with the equal angle. On the first version I did not allow enough distance between centre distances of the motor gear and drive gear to allow for a change of ratio if I need it. The new version is made out of 6mm plate and angle and has more room for a change of ratios. Photos attached, the green painted one is the original and the other photos are the new 6mm version..

On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 4:25 PM Mads Hurley mads.hurley@yahoo.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Hi Michael

Thanks for your reply and your description of your setup. Just a question, is your motor mount made out of 10 mm aluminium and it is holding up ok?  

Den onsdag den 19. juni 2019 06.40.28 CEST skrev Michael Ryan mryanqld@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>:


 

Hi Mads
Yes exactly my situation as I live in Australia.. I ordered the 10kw kit from Thunderstruck and opted to put together my own reduction from parts sourced locally. It was not any cheaper than the TS reduction kit but it allowed me to use readily available parts here in Oz. To give you a guide here is a list of parts and their approximate cost in Australia in US Dollars.
Motor mount: 5083 10mm Aluminium plate. 5083 6x50mm Aluminium equal angle.  USD 100
Reduction: Pulleys (Specification 8M-HTD) P72-8M20F 72T & P22-8M20F 22T Including taper locks & 720 8M Belt. USD210
Bearing, Keys & Bolts: 25mm Square flanged housing and bearing. UCF205, 25mm Split Collar, keys & various SS bolts and nuts. USD100
I also opted to fit a new cutless bearing and PYI Packless no drip shaft seal at the same time. 
All up about USD500, forget the budget it always costs more than you think!

On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 12:11 AM Mads Hurley mads.hurley@yahoo.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Thanks for all your replies, its greatly appreciated. The reason that I'm asking the question about gear reduction or direct drive is because of the simplicity in the setup, without the gear reduction (as I see it), and that a gear reduction setup is at bit pricey. I live in Denmark and with postage, taxes and customs (+25% + 3%) the gear reduction is quite costly for me. I guess the gear reduction is the way to go, and I'll be looking into getting a setup made locally instead of getting it shipped from the states.

 

Thanks!      



Den tirsdag den 18. juni 2019 06.57.13 CEST skrev Michael Ryan mryanqld@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>:


 

Simple answer! Assuming the exact same power input to a direct driven prop shaft or a driven reduction system! The power at the prop with a driven reduction system will be less due to friction of course.  

On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 12:51 PM Bill Farina bfarina@venture-1..com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

I'm not sure how I misquoted anything.

I was only wondering if having a reduction gear would make you use more power to go a designated distance as opposed to using direct drive?

On 6/16/2019 2:33 PM, Hydroweb Yahoo hydroweb@yahoo.com [electricboats] wrote:
Whoa what does all this mean why is this stuff so confusing? 

On Jun 16, 2019, at 11:45 AM, pembertonkevin pembertonkevin@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 
Wow! Somehow my post on this thread is misquoted. Truth be told none of my post was quoted..

Anyhow, as long as the motor is turning it is not locked rotor. In the past some have said direct drive did not work for  them.

A motor rpm is a mechanical thing( much better that it stays together right?).
Running at slower rpm the fan will not move as much air. Better to remove the motors fan and use a thermostat controlled fan to keep the motor heat within design limits. 

Keep in mind the hp ratings of an electric motor is with fan in place, you will be increasing hp a little bit and not use as many watts if the fan has been removed. You will still use power with the external fan, but because your fan is better controlled you should not use as much. 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "Bill Farina bfarina@venture-1.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 6/15/19 7:15 PM (GMT-07:00)
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Albin Vega direct drive?

 

Another thing that would seem to be problematic with using a reduction gear would be that higher RPM would mean greater power consumption for distance covered. Is this true?

On 6/15/2019 8:06 AM, Kevin Pemberton pembertonkevin@gmail..com [electricboats] wrote:


Can anyone confirm this is accurate and does anyone here use their motor without the gear reduction and simply avoid pushing the motor higher than the 2500 rpm the prop works best at?

.





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Kind regards Mick 0414 264 312



--
Kind regards Mick 0414 264 312



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Kind regards Mick 0414 264 312

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