Sunday, July 14, 2019

Re: [Electric Boats] 24V to 96V Operating Range from a Single Outboard

 

Hi Robert, 

Typically the most efficient setup on a boat is one controller per panel. This eliminates any shady issues between the panels, however shading issues on a pontoon boat wouldn't be as much of an issue compared to say a sailboat.  However, if you go this route you need a controller capable of bumping up the lower voltage panel to your your higher 48 volt system. Their is a slight loss in efficiency in up-converting, but its tiny compared to what you would lose because of shading, panel mismatch, orientation, etc. 

Pretty much the only controller capable of this and the only one I would recommend is a Genesun GVB-8 Boost. They have standard charge voltages and can also be customized to whatever voltage you want. Depending on your panel wattage you may be able to do up to two panels wired in parallel per controller. This would help keep the cost down. 

The setup I mentioned is the same concept as Enphase micro inverters. Iq7's are great, the IQ8's will be a game changer, but their output is A/C. You definitely want to stick  with DC for your setup. 

And yes the IQ'8 microiverters will be able to operate without a grid or battery but for any practical application they need a battery.  The can throttle their output to match the load but if a cloud passes or something within the house kicks on that the panels cant handle they will shut down. 

Matt Foley 
Sunlight Conversions
Perpetual Energy, LLC
201-914-0466


On Sunday, July 14, 2019, 12:51:00 PM EDT, robert winfield winfield100@yahoo.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

could you post a picture of your 3kWh boat please?
I have an 11.655kW array on my house roof, 37 315w panels with Enphase IQ7's micro inverters

I'm presently thinking about a flat roof of slightly peaked roof on pontoon boat with between 10 - 14 panels
the panels are1m x 1.6meter (~3ft 3 inch by 5ft 3 inch  so ~14ft long by 10.5ft wide hence slite verticle peak, with, (when available this fall) Enphase IQ8's that will auto island w/o need of batteries
10 would be 3,150 watts about 14-15ft long, 14 would be about 4,400watts at about 20ft long, so a 20+ ft pontoon or similar (obviously multiply by 0..85 to get closer to actual watts out.
still in thoughts planning stages obviously
for about $2,600 i could get  a pallet (25, 315w panels)((~7,800w) about 42 pounds per panel so 10 panels with wire, inverters would be ~500 - 600 lbs+



On Saturday, July 13, 2019, 06:51:05 PM EDT, 'james@deny.org' james@deny.org [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

I have 3 kWh of solar on my boat using the most efficient Cells one can really buy currently, 21%.  And I doubt you could fit 3 kWh worth on a normal sized pontoon..  

As to the voltage to wire them at, whatever charge controller you uses will determine your string voltage, my controller wanted around 90 volt strings.  Most good controller manufacturers have a string voltage calculator on there web site, that lets you size the strings.  Though I would probably use per panel micro-inverters if I was starting a project nowadays.  Micro-inverters avoid the whole series vs parallel, shading lose business altogether. 

 

On Jul 12, 2019, at 10:13 AM, robert winfield winfield100@yahoo.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

not to derail conversation, but is it possible to take a pontoon boat, add some fiberglass or other structural elements to make a rigid roof, cover roof with ~10 PV panels (3kw or so) wired at around 24 or 48v) for a sonshine powered day sailer with a small battery bank? like Jamie mantzel did?
seriously?




On Friday, July 12, 2019, 10:53:08 AM EDT, Kev captainyoung@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


 

I do think there is a market for an more affordable electric outboard, comparing to Torqueedo. But the problem is you are competing against gas outboards too. And when you factor in the cost of batteries + outboard, the electric option is several times the cost of an outboard. So your average customer will never pay that much. Even guys like us, who are very interested in an electric boat, will have a hard time justifying the substantially more expensive electric outboard vs a proven gas outboard for a lot less.
9.9 HP Gas outboard is around $2000
Electric outboard is $4800 + batteries, which can be several thousand dollars. How much would an average battery pack for this cost? A pack that can get you 2 hours of run time on a plane?

So your only target customer is wealthy people. And wealthy people will not have cost as a major factor. And when you compare your overall cost to Torqueedo's overall cost, a few thousand difference for the outboard will not be a big factor in their decision making. Having said that, as battery prices drop, the electric outboard will become more viable. So at some point in the future, from a business viewpoint it might work.
Right now, for small boats, electric outboards are starting to make financial sense, because they only need a small battery. But as you need more and more power, the battery gets so expensive, that it is not worth it yet.
That's just my opinion. But I do think what you have accomplished so far is really awesome, and I hope that you are successful.
What are the options for batteries? What are you using? Do you plan to package batteries with your outboard?




On Thu, Jul 11, 2019 at 9:42 PM Scott Masterson smasterson2@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Thank you so much for your input. It is truly appreciated. I think you are correct on the lower end being a questionable fit. Certainly Torqeedo's "Travel" line is the right choice for those looking for under 4HP, but the "Cruise" line puzzles me.. Here's what I don't understand....

Why do they rate the Cruise 2.0 as 5HP, the 4.0 as 8HP and the 10..0 as a 20HP? According to their specs sheets, the 2.0 has 2kW input power and 1.12kW propulsive power. That's the equivalent of 2.68HP input power and 1.5HP propulsive power and their efficiency rating is only 56%. Maybe they are having problems with dispersing heat from the motor. It's in the water. Why isn't it more efficient? Is the casing plastic or have a problem with heat transfer?

Same thing with the Cruise 4.0. Rated as 8HP, yet the input power is 4kW and the propulsive power is 2.24kW. That's only 5.36HP and 3HP respectively.. Very strange. I don't even feel the need to go to the 10.0. I think you get the idea as to why I am confused.

The new motor I am proposing is using a motor and controller combination that is over 90% efficient at voltages from 48V to 96V. The input power at 48V is 8.64kW or 11.58HP with a propulsive power of 6.91kW or 9.26HP. Compare that to the Cruise 4.0's 5.36 input HP and 3 propulsive HP. At a price of $4,499 for the Cruise 4...0, is $4,800 to make more than twice the propulsive power a worthy alternative?

Here is how the Cruise line stacks up against the Stealth:

Model                    Nominal Voltage          Weight          Propulsive Power          Price
Cruise 2..0             24V                              35 lbs..           1.5HP                            $3,999
Cruise 4.0             48V                              37 lbs.           3HP                               $4,499
Cruise 10.0           48V                              137 lbs.         7.5HP                            $8,999
Stealth@48V        48V-96V                       110 lbs.         9.26HP                          $4,800
Stealth@96V        48V-96V                       110 lbs.         18.43HP                        $4,800

Again, I want to thank you for your candid opinion. I'm looking forward to any additional insight you may have. As before, good, bad or indifferent, all feedback is very valuable.

PS, did you like the videos? I especially like the one of me and the wife. I really didn't mean to scold her. She's the best!

Scott

On Thu, Jul 11, 2019 at 9:39 AM Kev captainyoung@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Well done, but I think for the low hp models most people will go with torqueedo or a gas outboard. Brand new 6hp gas outboard is under $1500. So I doubt many will pay 3 times that, and still need batteries.
On the high hp motors you might do ok, but you need to compete with torqueedo on price and quality.
Good luck

On Tue, Jul 9, 2019, 12:56 AM smasterson2@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups..com> wrote:
 

My name is Scott Masterson


I produce the Stealth E40, a true 40HP electric outboard. I am writing the group to ask the groups opinion of what level of interest may exist in an electric outboard that can be operated in pack voltage ranges from 24V to 96V.


Though the Stealth E40 has enjoyed some level of success, it is somewhat limited to it's customer base because it is built on a 144V system. While the motor's price point of under $10,000 is very competitive, a proper battery pack, BMS, charger and monitor will nearly double the price.


I have been approached a number of times to produce a smaller outboard, say around 20HP. I thought about it and it seems to me that the best solution may be a single outboard that used the right components and was built in such a manner that the customer can make a one time purchase in the outboard of $4,800 dollars, then choose the pack voltage that best suits their performance requirements and be budget sensitive at the same time. If one wanted only a 24V pack to operate at 6HP, then four 6V golf cart batteries will do nicely. For those who need more power, the same outboard can deliver 24HP with a 96V pack.


At the same time, the right design should be lightweight, under 100 pounds, to make possible use on lighter small boats. This will be done by removing the more sensitive electronics out from under the cowl and placing them in a water proof case where the user can remove the case after use. The outboard will house only the motor. Phase wires will be fed through the lower cowl and attached easily with a single one piece Anderson quick connect. Likewise, the DC power pack connections will connect in the same way with a single one piece Anderson quick connect. No 12V logic accessory will be necessary.


This is only in the concept stage at this time, although I have used each and every component previously in similar applications, so I am confident in the concepts success.


Here is a video from years ago where I had put together a 48V outboard using a similar concept.. It is a little crude, but I think you will get the idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1mMKSqkRWs

https://www..youtube.com/watch?v=rlaX9LBGKHI


Also, I am attaching pics of the outboard lower leg being considered and a drawing of how the portable electronic components case may be look. All input, good or bad, will be appreciated.


Scott Masterson

Stealth Electric Outboards

713-391-6550

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