Thanks Phil,
That's kind of what I suspected. And getting a marine electrician in, who won't then run screaming when he sees the rest of my setup is likely to be a challenge as well. I'll check out the links you suggested (and maybe buy that anode) and see if I can figure it out.
-Keith
--- In electricboats@
>
> This can be a very difficult question to answer in terms of what a noncomercial operator ought to do for his own best interest. Worst case senario is your generator alters the potential of your grounding system, your zincs disappear in a few hours or days, and the boat starts to desolve. If you are connected to shore power at a marina, you might also cause everyone elses boat to start to desolve! (Why run a genset at a marina?- perhaps you need two 30amp circuits for A/C and the slip only has one.) I saw a big open fisherman with triple 300hp outboards stored on a lift with the lower units left in the water and the batteries being maintained by a cheap charger. After two months you could have pushed a 2 inch pipe right though the holes in all three lower units. I can only recommend that you buy stuff intended for marine application, and that you follow the mfg's recommendations. If this is a do-it-yourself affair- you need to read up on boat bonding systems, and understand what effect current-carrying grounds have on your boat. Yalinda.com has a little primer. Boatzinc.com used to have a very good two page primer, but it seems to have disappeared. But they sell a silver/silver chloride reference anode to determine how well your boat is protected.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required)
Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format to Traditional
Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe
No comments:
Post a Comment