Tom,
Good luck with your project, it sounds very interesting!
An emergency disconnect switch is a necessity, not an option, in any EV traction system whether it resides on land or water (or potentially air). It is a first-line safety device and anyone who has ever experienced a power runaway situation, such as when main contactors weld themselves shut, will inform that they are absolutely necessary. This happened to me once in my homebuilt electric car and I was grateful I had the presence of mind to heed these instructions. Mine was a ”big red switch” made by Albright, a
One may be tempted to think that there exists less potential for mayhem in the water than on our roads but that belief is false.
Another point well worth raising is the subject of overcurrent circuit protection. I am particularly fond of products made by
Another benefit (keeping to the main premise of this discussion) is that there is a reset switch built into the unit. While I still would not recommend negating the “big red button”, the MRCB 187 reset switch (small yellow lever) does offer the opportunity to disconnect the batteries in a pinch, especially if it is a panel-mount and mounted at easy reach on the helm.
As a final caution, I would never recommend using fuses on an electric vehicle of properly-rated circuit breakers are available. Nothing worse than being caught out with a dead motor and no fuse.
Monte
After 17 months of part-time building my 21' launch, I'm wrapping up construciton and starting to work out wiring details.
I try to glean all I can from this group and the EV folks. Something I see in the cars, but not so much in boats is an emergency disconnect switch in case of powertrain runaway.
It seems that it might be really handy in the event of a failure to be able to totally disable the battery bank without leaving the helm.
The EVs sometimes use "big red switches" within reach of the driver, and sometimes use a mechanical cable to actuate a switch remotely.
Since I want to keep the battery bank wiring as short as possible, I'm leaning toward the latter method.
This disconnect would be in addition to the keyswitch actuated battery bank contactor and typical fusing.
Any thoughts?
-Tom
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