I've no doubt this would work OK, as that's just where the stator heat is conducted out to on this motor. I guess that another way to do this might be to get a bit of copper plate, maybe 1/8" thick, and solder on a copper pipe spiral coil, from something like 1/4" or 3/8" pipe, pretty much a flat version of the chef's idea. The only thing to watch then would be corrosion between the copper plate and the alloy motor case, but a layer of conductive grease would probably solve that and aid heat transfer.
Copper pipe would be OK with direct seawater cooling too, provided an adequate strainer/filter was fitted to the inlet. May not even need a pump, as if the motor is mounted low enough a small scoop or NACA duct on the bottom of the hull, facing forward, might be enough to flow water through the system. Not much flow is needed, as the heat load is quite low, even for a big motor; it's a lot lower than for an internal combustion engine, for example.
Jeremy
--- In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, Michael Mccomb <mccomb.michael@...> wrote:
>
> in my chasing around after various motor offerings i did come across what I seem to recall was me0913 with with a two turn copper coil around the output shaft end of the motor.... as i recall they up rated the motor
>
>
Friday, September 9, 2011
[Electric Boats] Re: belt drives vs directly coupled motor shafts and torque
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