T-Pain Is On A Boat: July 2020

Tuesday, July 21, 2020

[electricboats] Battery recommendation for trolling motor on dinghy

Hi, this is my first post, but I enjoy reading your discussions about electric propulsion. I am looking for a recommendation on trolling motor power. I have a 10’ dinghy that eventually I will power with a Torqeedo outboard, but for now, a much more affordable trolling motor will have to do. I am looking at a 24V motor, requiring up to 50A maximum. I will be doing short trips (less than 1 hr), and I want to keep the battery weight to a minimum, as I lift my dinghy onto stern davits.

Any recommendations on a 24V battery or pair of 12V batteries in series that fit my needs?

Thanks,
Allan

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Sunday, July 19, 2020

Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

Similar to the people who used channel, I installed the controller on the heatsink and then to a bulkhead with standoffs to create an air gap.

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Wednesday, July 15, 2020

Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

Thanks everyone! This has been helpful.

On Jul 15, 2020, at 17:29, Harley Clark <clarkharley37@gmail.com> wrote:

The GEN4 is mounted on an aluminum plate offset by square tubing.
I felt more comfortable with this set up even though i was not planning on using more than 50 amps out of my 48 volt lithium battery pack.

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 1:55 PM Reuben Trane via groups.io <rjtrane=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
I have a bulkhead just aft of the motor. I cut out a section to match the heat sink. I mounted the Sevcon on the forward facet of the bulhead with the heat sink penetrating into an open area over the shaft. Works like a champ.

<IMG_9241.JPG>

Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

The GEN4 is mounted on an aluminum plate offset by square tubing.

I felt more comfortable with this set up even though i was not planning on using more than 50 amps out of my 48 volt lithium battery pack.

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 1:55 PM Reuben Trane via groups.io <rjtrane=me.com@groups.io> wrote:

I have a bulkhead just aft of the motor. I cut out a section to match the heat sink. I mounted the Sevcon on the forward facet of the bulhead with the heat sink penetrating into an open area over the shaft. Works like a champ.

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Tuesday, July 14, 2020

Re: [electricboats] Using online calculators - do they work?

Following the discussion with considerable interest as thinking about what engine(s) to fit to my future boat (a 34ft/10m cruising cat with a lightship displacement of 5 tons) which I plan to use as an electrically powered trawler rather than a sailing cat (its original design). The factory default engine options are Betamarine diesel sail drives of 16 or 20 HP; I am looking at rim driven thrusters or pod drives of around 10kW. Oceanvolt kindly put the hull data into their proprietary software program and came up with a performance curve that is almost identical to the one given by @damonalane!

Slight digression here - I have always been a bit befuddled while trying to keep any given review's boat/engine performance and fuel consumption data straight when it is expressed variably in nm/gallon, gallons/h, knots@RPM, etc. - especially trying to evaluate different boats or engines in comparison, and most especially trying to somehow compare the performance of ICEs to electric propulsion systems! Clearly all such data follow some sort of exponential progression or curve. What I cannot understand is why experts and reporters don't use a simplifying term such as the RPM or kW at which energy consumption/speed unity is achieved (in the given example graph that @damonalane used and that also seems to apply to my boat that would be 6.7knots at 6.7kW)? While that is only one data point on a curve it is very eloquent when comparing different boats and/or engines … yet I have never seen it expressed in any of the literature, scientific or journalistic.

Kai

On 14 Jul 2020, at 13:58, Larry Brown <elcapitanbrown@gmail.com> wrote:

I agree with Darin only in the respect that all those facets he listed are not currently being calculated and even if they were they will only get close to the reality of the situation. However, I think with some input from some learned people we could have something that can give us a calculation that gets really, really close. Take resistance of boat X's hull. If you have the number of hulls, length at the waterline of each, displacement and draft I think you can come up with a good measurement of resistance through the water and resistance to acceleration. However, it won't be perfect because the shapes and state of the surface of the hulls make a difference. But let's say you get as close an evaluation, based on descriptions like this that you can reasonably obtain, it would be a good start. If trial found that the number generated for size and pitch was low by 10% based on performance numbers like we want to collect, maybe its' a good factor to adjust the calculation by to get the best approximation we can. The question to me for the differences between the ice calculations and our motors is what does the even torque do for us. In a car you can feel that difference in the acceleration. There's no lag. So does that only mean that the prop on our boats can be large so we can spin them quickly and get good acceleration? Most of us don't really care much about that factor. We, and I'm taking a small leap here, are interested in best efficiency at a reasonable speed in comparison with our fellow sailors out there. IE I don't need to be able to run around at 15kt passing every snail boat around me. But I also don't necessarily want to creep along at 3kts while every sail boat around me passes me. At least some number of us do outings with others and would like to keep up. For those out on their own cruising the goal of 5kts is more to do with fighting currents and windage in certain circumstances. But I think the reality is we want just enough to do what most ICE boats do now and keep using that amount of energy as long as possible. If we propped our boats to do 15kts but we could only do it for 5 minutes with a ton of batteries we aren't interested. But that is one of the values in the ICE calculator (what speed do you want to attain). So does instant torque even help us more than a rabbit start from the dock? Is it more efficient to spin a prop at 1000 rpm with a big prop or 2000 rpm with a small prop kw per mile? And what is the right pitch for those? (big prop, small pitch, low rpm, or big prop, large pitch, low rpm, or big prop small pitch high rpm, etc) The combinations should yield a power vs efficiency table that you could use in relation to the boat's resistance to get really close to ordering the right prop.

Anyway, I think a calculator could be made really close if we can factor in the right elements of the equation. It doesn't exist today so I went with my gut based on comments made here and what people are using. I got a 15", 14 pitch folding prop for a 38' trimaran with a 3' draft and 9k lb displacement. I just installed it a few weeks ago but still need to do some sea trials. I'll share my data as soon as I get it. BTW folding was a decision based on the incredibly high number of crab traps sprinkled around our local waters period. I would have gone with fixed or if the wallet would allow, variable pitch if it were not for that issue.

On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 3:05 AM Darin <armyofpenguins@gmail.com> wrote:
Theo, good suggestion. There have been some lengthy discussions about this topic in several forums, but the bottom line is this: You want to know what size motor to use for your specific application. There's not really any good way to standardize that with a formula as there are so many factors such as prop diameter and pitch, gear reduction, water line length, beam, hull shape, etc, all factors which are part of the complex relationship between power and speed and which should be considered when choosing your motor. In my case, I eliminated my transmission and installed a reduction gear, and changed my prop diameter and pitch. All of these factors are different for each conversion and all affect each other. There's some math for sure, but there's also a lot of educated guesses and experimentation necessary. What I did was look for conversions of boats the same size as mine and try to learn from their successes and failures. If you can, get them to share some data with you. Ultimately, the most useful formula will be an empirical formula for how much power in kilowatts it takes to get their boat to a certain speed. If you can develop that curve for their conversion, and if your boat is a close analog to theirs, you will then be able to select an appropriate combination of motor, nominal battery voltage, prop diameter and pitch, and gear reduction needed to move your boat efficiently and without burning up your motor or overdesigning (and overspending). I've considered putting together a website where we can all submit our basic info and data to generate a power curve. Alas, the older I get, the more it's about time. Cheers and welcome aboard!

Darin

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 8:54 PM Theo B <theo.brillhart@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi all - first time poster. I think I have some insights to the calculator question, but maybe not a totally straight forward answer.
What's missing in traditional calculators like VicProp is the torque that the electric motor brings to the party. The electric motor can supply almost constant torque across its RPM range and near full torque from the time you turn it on. So there's a mathematical relationship that predicts this power discrepancy and uncovers the false assumption that electric hp can be treated like ICE hp.
Mathematically, horsepower equals torque multiplied by rpm. Or, torque of one newton-meter, twisting a shaft at an angular speed of one radian per second, requires a power of one watt. So power is torque times angular speed (with no extra constants or conversions if you work everything in radians and SI units). So for the same angular velocity (RPM) the electric motor has all of its torque available starting at zero RPM, an ICE does not, and will not until the RPM gets sufficiently high. Thus the exaggerated discrepancies seen at slower speeds.
Given enough time and brain cells one could likely develop a compensation factor for typical ICE hp, but it would have to be non-linear due to the non-linear torque of the ICE. I've seen a 5:3 hp ratio tossed around in the electric car communities, but this does nothing to compensate for exaggerations at slower speeds. Might get you in the ballpark though.

--
Larry Brown
S/V Trident
Palm Harbor, FL
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~~~
~ ~ ~~ ~
~ ~~_/) ~ ~ ~ ~
~ _/) ~

Re: [electricboats] Using online calculators - do they work?

I agree with Darin only in the respect that all those facets he listed are not currently being calculated and even if they were they will only get close to the reality of the situation. However, I think with some input from some learned people we could have something that can give us a calculation that gets really, really close. Take resistance of boat X's hull. If you have the number of hulls, length at the waterline of each, displacement and draft I think you can come up with a good measurement of resistance through the water and resistance to acceleration. However, it won't be perfect because the shapes and state of the surface of the hulls make a difference. But let's say you get as close an evaluation, based on descriptions like this that you can reasonably obtain, it would be a good start. If trial found that the number generated for size and pitch was low by 10% based on performance numbers like we want to collect, maybe its' a good factor to adjust the calculation by to get the best approximation we can. The question to me for the differences between the ice calculations and our motors is what does the even torque do for us. In a car you can feel that difference in the acceleration. There's no lag. So does that only mean that the prop on our boats can be large so we can spin them quickly and get good acceleration? Most of us don't really care much about that factor. We, and I'm taking a small leap here, are interested in best efficiency at a reasonable speed in comparison with our fellow sailors out there. IE I don't need to be able to run around at 15kt passing every snail boat around me. But I also don't necessarily want to creep along at 3kts while every sail boat around me passes me. At least some number of us do outings with others and would like to keep up. For those out on their own cruising the goal of 5kts is more to do with fighting currents and windage in certain circumstances. But I think the reality is we want just enough to do what most ICE boats do now and keep using that amount of energy as long as possible. If we propped our boats to do 15kts but we could only do it for 5 minutes with a ton of batteries we aren't interested. But that is one of the values in the ICE calculator (what speed do you want to attain). So does instant torque even help us more than a rabbit start from the dock? Is it more efficient to spin a prop at 1000 rpm with a big prop or 2000 rpm with a small prop kw per mile? And what is the right pitch for those? (big prop, small pitch, low rpm, or big prop, large pitch, low rpm, or big prop small pitch high rpm, etc) The combinations should yield a power vs efficiency table that you could use in relation to the boat's resistance to get really close to ordering the right prop.

Anyway, I think a calculator could be made really close if we can factor in the right elements of the equation. It doesn't exist today so I went with my gut based on comments made here and what people are using. I got a 15", 14 pitch folding prop for a 38' trimaran with a 3' draft and 9k lb displacement. I just installed it a few weeks ago but still need to do some sea trials. I'll share my data as soon as I get it. BTW folding was a decision based on the incredibly high number of crab traps sprinkled around our local waters period. I would have gone with fixed or if the wallet would allow, variable pitch if it were not for that issue.

On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 3:05 AM Darin <armyofpenguins@gmail.com> wrote:

Theo, good suggestion. There have been some lengthy discussions about this topic in several forums, but the bottom line is this: You want to know what size motor to use for your specific application. There's not really any good way to standardize that with a formula as there are so many factors such as prop diameter and pitch, gear reduction, water line length, beam, hull shape, etc, all factors which are part of the complex relationship between power and speed and which should be considered when choosing your motor. In my case, I eliminated my transmission and installed a reduction gear, and changed my prop diameter and pitch. All of these factors are different for each conversion and all affect each other. There's some math for sure, but there's also a lot of educated guesses and experimentation necessary. What I did was look for conversions of boats the same size as mine and try to learn from their successes and failures. If you can, get them to share some data with you. Ultimately, the most useful formula will be an empirical formula for how much power in kilowatts it takes to get their boat to a certain speed. If you can develop that curve for their conversion, and if your boat is a close analog to theirs, you will then be able to select an appropriate combination of motor, nominal battery voltage, prop diameter and pitch, and gear reduction needed to move your boat efficiently and without burning up your motor or overdesigning (and overspending). I've considered putting together a website where we can all submit our basic info and data to generate a power curve. Alas, the older I get, the more it's about time. Cheers and welcome aboard!

Darin

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 8:54 PM Theo B <theo.brillhart@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi all - first time poster. I think I have some insights to the calculator question, but maybe not a totally straight forward answer.

What's missing in traditional calculators like VicProp is the torque that the electric motor brings to the party. The electric motor can supply almost constant torque across its RPM range and near full torque from the time you turn it on. So there's a mathematical relationship that predicts this power discrepancy and uncovers the false assumption that electric hp can be treated like ICE hp.
Mathematically, horsepower equals torque multiplied by rpm. Or, torque of one newton-meter, twisting a shaft at an angular speed of one radian per second, requires a power of one watt. So power is torque times angular speed (with no extra constants or conversions if you work everything in radians and SI units). So for the same angular velocity (RPM) the electric motor has all of its torque available starting at zero RPM, an ICE does not, and will not until the RPM gets sufficiently high. Thus the exaggerated discrepancies seen at slower speeds.
Given enough time and brain cells one could likely develop a compensation factor for typical ICE hp, but it would have to be non-linear due to the non-linear torque of the ICE. I've seen a 5:3 hp ratio tossed around in the electric car communities, but this does nothing to compensate for exaggerations at slower speeds. Might get you in the ballpark though.

Larry Brown

S/V Trident

Palm Harbor, FL

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~~~

~ ~ ~~ ~

~ ~~_/) ~ ~ ~ ~

~ _/) ~

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Re: [electricboats] Using online calculators - do they work?

Theo, good suggestion. There have been some lengthy discussions about this topic in several forums, but the bottom line is this: You want to know what size motor to use for your specific application. There's not really any good way to standardize that with a formula as there are so many factors such as prop diameter and pitch, gear reduction, water line length, beam, hull shape, etc, all factors which are part of the complex relationship between power and speed and which should be considered when choosing your motor. In my case, I eliminated my transmission and installed a reduction gear, and changed my prop diameter and pitch. All of these factors are different for each conversion and all affect each other. There's some math for sure, but there's also a lot of educated guesses and experimentation necessary. What I did was look for conversions of boats the same size as mine and try to learn from their successes and failures. If you can, get them to share some data with you. Ultimately, the most useful formula will be an empirical formula for how much power in kilowatts it takes to get their boat to a certain speed. If you can develop that curve for their conversion, and if your boat is a close analog to theirs, you will then be able to select an appropriate combination of motor, nominal battery voltage, prop diameter and pitch, and gear reduction needed to move your boat efficiently and without burning up your motor or overdesigning (and overspending). I've considered putting together a website where we can all submit our basic info and data to generate a power curve. Alas, the older I get, the more it's about time. Cheers and welcome aboard!

Darin

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 8:54 PM Theo B <theo.brillhart@gmail.com> wrote:

Hi all - first time poster. I think I have some insights to the calculator question, but maybe not a totally straight forward answer.

What's missing in traditional calculators like VicProp is the torque that the electric motor brings to the party. The electric motor can supply almost constant torque across its RPM range and near full torque from the time you turn it on. So there's a mathematical relationship that predicts this power discrepancy and uncovers the false assumption that electric hp can be treated like ICE hp.
Mathematically, horsepower equals torque multiplied by rpm. Or, torque of one newton-meter, twisting a shaft at an angular speed of one radian per second, requires a power of one watt. So power is torque times angular speed (with no extra constants or conversions if you work everything in radians and SI units). So for the same angular velocity (RPM) the electric motor has all of its torque available starting at zero RPM, an ICE does not, and will not until the RPM gets sufficiently high. Thus the exaggerated discrepancies seen at slower speeds.
Given enough time and brain cells one could likely develop a compensation factor for typical ICE hp, but it would have to be non-linear due to the non-linear torque of the ICE. I've seen a 5:3 hp ratio tossed around in the electric car communities, but this does nothing to compensate for exaggerations at slower speeds. Might get you in the ballpark though.

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Monday, July 13, 2020

Re: [electricboats] Using online calculators - do they work?

Hi all - first time poster. I think I have some insights to the calculator question, but maybe not a totally straight forward answer.

What's missing in traditional calculators like VicProp is the torque that the electric motor brings to the party. The electric motor can supply almost constant torque across its RPM range and near full torque from the time you turn it on. So there's a mathematical relationship that predicts this power discrepancy and uncovers the false assumption that electric hp can be treated like ICE hp.

Mathematically, horsepower equals torque multiplied by rpm. Or, torque of one newton-meter, twisting a shaft at an angular speed of one radian per second, requires a power of one watt. So power is torque times angular speed (with no extra constants or conversions if you work everything in radians and SI units). So for the same angular velocity (RPM) the electric motor has all of its torque available starting at zero RPM, an ICE does not, and will not until the RPM gets sufficiently high. Thus the exaggerated discrepancies seen at slower speeds.

Given enough time and brain cells one could likely develop a compensation factor for typical ICE hp, but it would have to be non-linear due to the non-linear torque of the ICE. I've seen a 5:3 hp ratio tossed around in the electric car communities, but this does nothing to compensate for exaggerations at slower speeds. Might get you in the ballpark though.

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Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

I have a bulkhead just aft of the motor. I cut out a section to match the heat sink. I mounted the Sevcon on the forward facet of the bulhead with the heat sink penetrating into an open area over the shaft. Works like a champ.

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Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

These were taken during the install. The backside where you can see the heat sync if you notice the nuts on the right side they are the bolts holding the chargers on the back side. They also have thermal grease between the aluminum plate and the aluminum stand.

On Jul 13, 2020, at 6:48 AM, Bob Jennings <heatnh@gmail.com> wrote:

Picture of my compartment

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020, 6:42 AM Bob Jennings via groups.io <heatnh=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
I used the optional heat sink. It was short money when I purchased the 10kw kit. Not sure if it makes a difference but the controller is mounted in the engine compartment so figured it couldn't hurt.

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020, 1:09 AM Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:
How have you folks mounted the sevcon controller? With the heat sinks on there doesn't seem to be a natural way to mount it. Do you put it on rods? Or mount it with the heat sinks up against a panel?

Pictures anyone?

Thanks!

<20200506_131724.jpg>

Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

Picture of my compartment

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020, 6:42 AM Bob Jennings via groups.io <heatnh=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

I used the optional heat sink. It was short money when I purchased the 10kw kit. Not sure if it makes a difference but the controller is mounted in the engine compartment so figured it couldn't hurt.

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020, 1:09 AM Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:
How have you folks mounted the sevcon controller? With the heat sinks on there doesn't seem to be a natural way to mount it. Do you put it on rods? Or mount it with the heat sinks up against a panel?

Pictures anyone?

Thanks!

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Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

I used the optional heat sink. It was short money when I purchased the 10kw kit. Not sure if it makes a difference but the controller is mounted in the engine compartment so figured it couldn't hurt.

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020, 1:09 AM Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:

How have you folks mounted the sevcon controller? With the heat sinks on there doesn't seem to be a natural way to mount it. Do you put it on rods? Or mount it with the heat sinks up against a panel?

Pictures anyone?

Thanks!

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Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

I should clarify that my gen4 is mounted on stainless steel sheet, which acts as a heatsink itself. I've attached a sketch. Hope this helps.

Darin

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020, 2:15 AM Thierry <thierry.lequeu@gmail.com> wrote:

Dear Ryan,

The first question is whether the SEVCON GEN4 controller heats ...

A simple 6mm aluminium sheet can be used as a support and heatsink: https://www.kit-elec-shop.com/gb/mechanical-spare-parts/3298-support-plate-for-gen4-controller-63a-socket-and-emergency-stop.html

With a heatsink slightly larger than the controller, it is possible to first attach the heatsink and then the controller to the heatsink: https://www.kit-elec-shop.com/gb/parts-for-controllers/4344-aluminium-heatsink-200x330x25mm.html

Caution: The heatsink fins must remain vertical in the direction of the natural air flow.

And when the motor mount is designed to accommodate the controller, it's easier! https://www.e-kart.fr/1638-kit-assembly-for-an-electric-boat-engine

Thierry

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Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

I mounted the sevcon and 2 of the TS2500 chargers on a sheet of aluminum bent into a u shaped stand. I bolted the sevcon to the aluminum with the heat sync on the back side with thermal grease on each surface. Based on others' comments I get the impression this was overkill but I figured if I'm going to give it my best shot, why not.

On Jul 13, 2020, at 5:15 AM, Thierry <thierry.lequeu@gmail.com> wrote:

Dear Ryan,

The first question is whether the SEVCON GEN4 controller heats ...

A simple 6mm aluminium sheet can be used as a support and heatsink: https://www.kit-elec-shop.com/gb/mechanical-spare-parts/3298-support-plate-for-gen4-controller-63a-socket-and-emergency-stop.html

With a heatsink slightly larger than the controller, it is possible to first attach the heatsink and then the controller to the heatsink: https://www.kit-elec-shop.com/gb/parts-for-controllers/4344-aluminium-heatsink-200x330x25mm.html

Caution: The heatsink fins must remain vertical in the direction of the natural air flow.

And when the motor mount is designed to accommodate the controller, it's easier! https://www.e-kart.fr/1638-kit-assembly-for-an-electric-boat-engine

Thierry

Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

Ditto I have been using a Gen 4 Sevcon without a Heat Sink for two years and overheating is not a problem. It will depend on the rating of your Sevcon, but heat dissipation will be improved if your mount it to aluminum plate with a large surface area. Forced air over the heat sink is also another option.

On Mon, Jul 13, 2020 at 4:16 PM Darin <armyofpenguins@gmail.com> wrote:

Ryan, I did not use a heat sink and haven't had any problems with it getting warm. FWIW, I have a 37 ft sailboat with the same 10kW Thunderstruck kit I think I saw that you are using. I typically run the motor around 30 to 60 amps, and have taken it up to 125 amps or above for 10 minutes or so without ever having an overheating problem with either the motor or the controller.

Darin

On Sun, Jul 12, 2020 at 10:09 PM Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:
How have you folks mounted the sevcon controller? With the heat sinks on there doesn't seem to be a natural way to mount it. Do you put it on rods? Or mount it with the heat sinks up against a panel?

Pictures anyone?

Thanks!

Kind regards Mick 0414 264 312

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Sunday, July 12, 2020

Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

Dear Ryan,

The first question is whether the SEVCON GEN4 controller heats ...

A simple 6mm aluminium sheet can be used as a support and heatsink: https://www.kit-elec-shop.com/gb/mechanical-spare-parts/3298-support-plate-for-gen4-controller-63a-socket-and-emergency-stop.html

With a heatsink slightly larger than the controller, it is possible to first attach the heatsink and then the controller to the heatsink: https://www.kit-elec-shop.com/gb/parts-for-controllers/4344-aluminium-heatsink-200x330x25mm.html

Caution: The heatsink fins must remain vertical in the direction of the natural air flow.

And when the motor mount is designed to accommodate the controller, it's easier! https://www.e-kart.fr/1638-kit-assembly-for-an-electric-boat-engine

Thierry

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Re: [electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

Ryan, I did not use a heat sink and haven't had any problems with it getting warm. FWIW, I have a 37 ft sailboat with the same 10kW Thunderstruck kit I think I saw that you are using. I typically run the motor around 30 to 60 amps, and have taken it up to 125 amps or above for 10 minutes or so without ever having an overheating problem with either the motor or the controller.

Darin

On Sun, Jul 12, 2020 at 10:09 PM Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:

How have you folks mounted the sevcon controller? With the heat sinks on there doesn't seem to be a natural way to mount it. Do you put it on rods? Or mount it with the heat sinks up against a panel?

Pictures anyone?

Thanks!

_._,_._,_

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You receive all messages sent to this group.

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[electricboats] Mounting the sevcon gen4?

How have you folks mounted the sevcon controller? With the heat sinks on there doesn't seem to be a natural way to mount it. Do you put it on rods? Or mount it with the heat sinks up against a panel?

Pictures anyone?

Thanks!
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Tuesday, July 7, 2020

Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electric conversion

Guess I did sign up just never went. Is there a way to set up notifications to your email addy?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

-------- Original message --------

From: "Jeff Butler jeff@electricboatassociation.ca [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>

Date: 2020-07-07 3:30 p.m. (GMT-05:00)

To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electric conversion

Just go to:

https://groups.io/g/electricboats/join

Jeff

On Jul 7, 2020, at 3:07 PM, 63urban 63urban@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I was off for a while and likely missed it any chance you could send another invite out?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

-------- Original message --------
From: "Jeff Butler jeff@electricboatassociation.ca [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 2020-07-07 2:45 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electric conversion

When the Yahoo group was migrated over to Groups.io, everything - or almost everything - went over there, with the exception of maybe 100 or so images from years ago.

So Groups was a cline of this, the only difference now being that the people who wanted to add things to the Yahoo group have done that, and the people who wanted to move to Groups put their pists up there..

All members of the original Yahoo were sent an email inviting them to Groups and instructing them how to do it, which was basically click 'reply'.

Hope this helps

Jeff Butler
'Owner', electricboats on Groups
A moderator of electricboats on Yahoo

On Jul 7, 2020, at 2:20 PM, 63urban 63urban@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

The list is most important to me. Others have adopted other platforms but have somehow folded the Yahoo list into it. Dont know how they manage it though

Nick b

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

-------- Original message --------
From: "'Myles Twete' matwete@comcast.net [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 2020-07-06 3:11 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Electric Boats] Re: Electric conversion

Maybe it's time to kill the Yahoo group…I suppose I have the power to do that---unless they have denied me that ability also.

From: electricboats@yahoogroups.com [mailto:electricboats@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Monday, July 6, 2020 11:43 AM
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electric conversion


Yahoo killed off most of the functionality of their "groups" product, so now it is just a simple email list. The "electric boats" group got migrated to groups.io. That new site works like the old yahoo version did, and in my opinion, somewhat better.

I'm not sure why this thread started using the yahoo version or why everyone just kept the discussion here. I've just been reading the posts and deleting, figuring that someone would eventually take this the current channel.
Eric
Marina del Rey, CA

On Jul 6, 2020, at 11:21 AM, rschwirz rschwirz@sbcglobal.net [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Hi there.
I used to get my email info from Electricboats group but now I am getting tons of individual mail from everyone.
Don't know what happened?

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: "Jeff McDaniel mrbcast@gmail.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 7/6/20 1:25 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Electric conversion


I agree with you. I havent found another system that is more cost effective while also allowing me to customize the install to my specs. Having a tough time with betts as well.

Jeff...

On Mon, Jul 6, 2020, 9:20 AM financial@jamesschmidt.xyz [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Looking at as many websites as possible.. I don't see anything better than Thunderstruck. It looks like with 25,700 displacement, I'll need to go with the 18 kw ME1.616 motor.
There seems to be a large price range in batteries. Do solar storage batteries work well. There are some Chinese companies that make these batteries much cheaper than others.

On 2020-07-04 9:25 am, Jeff McDaniel mrbcast@gmail.com [electricboats] wrote:


Yeah took mine out with the boom and a dock cart... Took two weeks to get the diesel smell out.

Jeff...

On Sat, Jul 4, 2020, 9:49 AM financial@jamesschmidt.xyz [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


Jeff,
I'm at the beginning stages of refurbishing my CT41. I am starting to dismantle the Yanmar today! You know more than I do.

On 2020-07-04 6:32 am, Jeff McDaniel mrbcast@gmail.com [electricboats] wrote:


I have a 42 year old Hunter 30 that I am restoring. I am in the process of getting the small engine compartment ready for a 10kw thunderstruck engine. I would love to hear some of your suggestions on batts, chargers and solar that you would recommend.. Thanks.

Jeff McDaniel

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T-Pain Is On A Boat

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