---In electricboats@yahoogroups.com, <matthew@...> wrote :
I have a prop with a good 'bite' (Same prop that was paired with the
direct drive 2 stroke) and the boat has quite some inertia, the prop can
continue to rotate for 10-15 seconds. And i'd rather it no go into
braking mode when the throttle is at 0 as I may really want to 'coast'.
What it needs to do is go into high regen braking the moment you go past
0 to slow the shaft quickly and then reverse.
direct drive 2 stroke) and the boat has quite some inertia, the prop can
continue to rotate for 10-15 seconds. And i'd rather it no go into
braking mode when the throttle is at 0 as I may really want to 'coast'.
What it needs to do is go into high regen braking the moment you go past
0 to slow the shaft quickly and then reverse.
I suspect there is a way to do this and still have only a single control, but for more flexibility you might want a separate knob on a brake pot so you could use regen braking to quickly stop or slow the freewheeling shaft as desired. I will consult the manual and see if there is not a built in function that will cut down on freewheeling when the throttle is reduced or stopped. I know that there is a switch input to disable regen, so that might be your solution, or part of it. You could locate it inside out of the weather since you would not need to switch back and forth all the time while docking.
I had exactly the same conversation with them - I use a 400amp
controller on with a 100amp motor - just to make sure there is plenty of
head room. The amps out is not scaled, so the meter never went past 1/4
deflection. I tried to ask if they could scale the meter off the current
limit setting, not the full rated load, but they didn't seem to
understand what I was asking.
controller on with a 100amp motor - just to make sure there is plenty of
head room. The amps out is not scaled, so the meter never went past 1/4
deflection. I tried to ask if they could scale the meter off the current
limit setting, not the full rated load, but they didn't seem to
understand what I was asking.
I think it is probably a 0-5v out signal and the supplied meter is simply a voltmeter,and so maybe you could use a lower range meter and draw your own scale. My beef is that I wanted actual amps readout, on the input, so I could calculate battery drawdown accurately. A percentage of output current is of no use, or even output amps, since it is different from a true flat DC voltage... apples/oranges.
Does it read the serial port output of the Serial to USB adapter, at the USB port? I can get the app to start in Wine, but there is no USB support in Wine, or at least no usable USB capability. So VirtualBox will actually allow it to work as advertised, on a Linux box? I think I have some older versions of Windows, like maybe 7 and XP, around somewhere. I wonder if I would have problems with them in VirtuaBox.
It works under VirtualBox :-). You do need a valid windows license for
the virtual machine though.
the virtual machine though.
Does it read the serial port output of the Serial to USB adapter, at the USB port? I can get the app to start in Wine, but there is no USB support in Wine, or at least no usable USB capability. So VirtualBox will actually allow it to work as advertised, on a Linux box? I think I have some older versions of Windows, like maybe 7 and XP, around somewhere. I wonder if I would have problems with them in VirtuaBox.
What they need to realize is that guys who are likely to put together their own car or boat propulsion systems are exactly the type who might find a closed source OS like WinDOHs or Mac suspicious, limiting, inflexible and abhorrent in general. Techy type tinkerers by and large see and appreciate the tremendous advantages of Linux, and refusing to cater to the Linux crowd is very shortsighted.
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