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Hi Chris,Place the brushed motor controller inline with the negative lead from the windlass. This will limit the potential on either side of the two motors, assuming that's how the system is wired. I'll send you a wiring diagram directly. If it works, you can put it up on the site for others with a similar situation. Please note, my assumptions are just that. If the manufacturer can supply a schematic, I'll be glad to evaluate it prior to blind experimentation.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 29, 2014, at 2:03 PM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Hi Arby,Sorry to keep pestering you, but you know what they say to do when you find a good horse. Since there are 2 motors, could I simply just not use one of them and flop the polarity on the other to change direction?Thanks,Chris
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On Jun 29, 2014, at 9:27, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Two motors, one CW, one CCW, common ground, same housing.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 29, 2014, at 9:34 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Can anyone explain, or point me to a schematic of the internal wiring of a 3 lead motor as discussed below. I've scoured the web and can't find what I'm looking for. My assumption is the the 3 leads are F1, F2, and A. I just can't picture how things are wired internally to allow forward and reverse just by swapping which F lead voltage is applied to.Thanks,Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 11:06, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Hi Chris,Your voltage will be unregulated, leading to excessive motor speed.A brushed motor controller naturally runs on the negative leg (nice smirk, Myles!), so a single controller would work just fine. You could also build a voltage regulator to limit the potential, with the balance of the energy (50%) going to heat. Since the windlass is a low duty-cycle, this isn't much of a problem.Go with the motor controller to make the best use of your battery power.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 11:04 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:How about something as simple as a high power resistor(s) in series with the 48V DC supply sized right resistance wise to cut the voltage to the motor in half? I found some power divert resistors at a solar/wind power site. The resistor would get warm but only for a couple minutes. Thoughts?Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 9:23, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Put the motor controller on the negative (common) lead. Your windless motor will be running off the "top" is the string, but no problem. Just make sure it's not sharing a common ground with the house bank.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 8:36 AM, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Worst case: use two controllers.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 7:46 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Oh, I forgot to mention that the motor has 3 leads; one forward, one reverse, and one negative.Chris
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On Jun 28, 2014, at 6:04, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Arby,I like this idea best. Just trying to sort out the best approach. The standard way to run a windlass is with 2 foot switches on deck, one forward and one reverse. The deck switches pick up solenoids that send full battery voltage to the motor to make it run forward or backward. I'd prefer to keep this arrangement and not need a throttle for the controller. Couldn't I just use the foot switches to apply a fixed voltage via a voltage divider to the throttle input of the controller? I'm assuming that if I had a 24V motor and I input 1/2 throttle the motor would run full speed with my 48V supply. Can anyone suggest a controller for this application? Looking at max 1500 watts.Thanks,Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 18:43, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Easy. No problem.Use a brush motor controller to modulate the 48v to what ever voltage you'd like.Don't exceed the rated RPM of the original motor. You can monitor the apparent voltage with a simple DC voltmeter.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 27, 2014, at 4:30 PM, "oak oak_box@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Can you really not tap off the 48V battery bank at 24 or 36V?It's not ideal, but hopefully you wouldn't need to run the windlass long enough to drain half the bank.From: "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: "electricboats@yahoogroups.com" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] 48V Windlass
Mark,Thanks. I'd like to eliminate the need for more batteries.Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 15:21, "Mark F mark.internet@yahoo.ca [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:1500 watts at 24 volts would be 62.5 Amps.Would take a few DC/DC converters.Possibly you could use the DC/DC to charge a small battery for the windlass.Maybe some Dcell sized NIMH or Lipo batteries.I beleive you can pull 10C out of most batteries. So 6 Amphr batteries would probably provide the current (60 amps).The question would be how long do you need to use the motor and how much time is available to recharge.just one ideaFrom: "clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 4:05:32 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] 48V Windlass
Hi group, My 12 volt windlass motor went out and the whole unit is not worth fixing. I've been researching new ones. I've found a couple manufacturers that make ones that run on 24V and 32V. That got me thinking, I've got this huge 48V propulsion bank at my disposal. I called Ideal Windlass and they are checking with their motor supplier about a 48V motor. I believe they are DC series motors. If I can't get a 48V windlass, could I step down my 48V to 32V or even 24V? We are talking around 1500 watts. I'm wondering if I could parallel a few DC/DC converters, if they could handle the inrush. Is there a simpler way? Thanks, Chris
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Hi Arby,Sorry to keep pestering you, but you know what they say to do when you find a good horse. Since there are 2 motors, could I simply just not use one of them and flop the polarity on the other to change direction?Thanks,Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 29, 2014, at 9:27, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Two motors, one CW, one CCW, common ground, same housing.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 29, 2014, at 9:34 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Can anyone explain, or point me to a schematic of the internal wiring of a 3 lead motor as discussed below. I've scoured the web and can't find what I'm looking for. My assumption is the the 3 leads are F1, F2, and A. I just can't picture how things are wired internally to allow forward and reverse just by swapping which F lead voltage is applied to.Thanks,Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 11:06, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Hi Chris,Your voltage will be unregulated, leading to excessive motor speed.A brushed motor controller naturally runs on the negative leg (nice smirk, Myles!), so a single controller would work just fine. You could also build a voltage regulator to limit the potential, with the balance of the energy (50%) going to heat. Since the windlass is a low duty-cycle, this isn't much of a problem.Go with the motor controller to make the best use of your battery power.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 11:04 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:How about something as simple as a high power resistor(s) in series with the 48V DC supply sized right resistance wise to cut the voltage to the motor in half? I found some power divert resistors at a solar/wind power site. The resistor would get warm but only for a couple minutes. Thoughts?Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 9:23, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Put the motor controller on the negative (common) lead. Your windless motor will be running off the "top" is the string, but no problem. Just make sure it's not sharing a common ground with the house bank.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 8:36 AM, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Worst case: use two controllers.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 7:46 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Oh, I forgot to mention that the motor has 3 leads; one forward, one reverse, and one negative.Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 6:04, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Arby,I like this idea best. Just trying to sort out the best approach. The standard way to run a windlass is with 2 foot switches on deck, one forward and one reverse. The deck switches pick up solenoids that send full battery voltage to the motor to make it run forward or backward. I'd prefer to keep this arrangement and not need a throttle for the controller. Couldn't I just use the foot switches to apply a fixed voltage via a voltage divider to the throttle input of the controller? I'm assuming that if I had a 24V motor and I input 1/2 throttle the motor would run full speed with my 48V supply. Can anyone suggest a controller for this application? Looking at max 1500 watts.Thanks,Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 18:43, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Easy. No problem.Use a brush motor controller to modulate the 48v to what ever voltage you'd like.Don't exceed the rated RPM of the original motor. You can monitor the apparent voltage with a simple DC voltmeter.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 27, 2014, at 4:30 PM, "oak oak_box@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Can you really not tap off the 48V battery bank at 24 or 36V?It's not ideal, but hopefully you wouldn't need to run the windlass long enough to drain half the bank.From: "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: "electricboats@yahoogroups.com" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] 48V Windlass
Mark,Thanks. I'd like to eliminate the need for more batteries.Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 15:21, "Mark F mark.internet@yahoo.ca [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:1500 watts at 24 volts would be 62.5 Amps.Would take a few DC/DC converters.Possibly you could use the DC/DC to charge a small battery for the windlass.Maybe some Dcell sized NIMH or Lipo batteries.I beleive you can pull 10C out of most batteries. So 6 Amphr batteries would probably provide the current (60 amps).The question would be how long do you need to use the motor and how much time is available to recharge.just one ideaFrom: "clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 4:05:32 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] 48V Windlass
Hi group, My 12 volt windlass motor went out and the whole unit is not worth fixing. I've been researching new ones. I've found a couple manufacturers that make ones that run on 24V and 32V. That got me thinking, I've got this huge 48V propulsion bank at my disposal. I called Ideal Windlass and they are checking with their motor supplier about a 48V motor. I believe they are DC series motors. If I can't get a 48V windlass, could I step down my 48V to 32V or even 24V? We are talking around 1500 watts. I'm wondering if I could parallel a few DC/DC converters, if they could handle the inrush. Is there a simpler way? Thanks, Chris
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Two motors, one CW, one CCW, common ground, same housing.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 29, 2014, at 9:34 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Can anyone explain, or point me to a schematic of the internal wiring of a 3 lead motor as discussed below. I've scoured the web and can't find what I'm looking for. My assumption is the the 3 leads are F1, F2, and A. I just can't picture how things are wired internally to allow forward and reverse just by swapping which F lead voltage is applied to.Thanks,Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 11:06, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Hi Chris,Your voltage will be unregulated, leading to excessive motor speed.A brushed motor controller naturally runs on the negative leg (nice smirk, Myles!), so a single controller would work just fine. You could also build a voltage regulator to limit the potential, with the balance of the energy (50%) going to heat. Since the windlass is a low duty-cycle, this isn't much of a problem.Go with the motor controller to make the best use of your battery power.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 11:04 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:How about something as simple as a high power resistor(s) in series with the 48V DC supply sized right resistance wise to cut the voltage to the motor in half? I found some power divert resistors at a solar/wind power site. The resistor would get warm but only for a couple minutes. Thoughts?Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 9:23, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Put the motor controller on the negative (common) lead. Your windless motor will be running off the "top" is the string, but no problem. Just make sure it's not sharing a common ground with the house bank.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 8:36 AM, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Worst case: use two controllers.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 7:46 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Oh, I forgot to mention that the motor has 3 leads; one forward, one reverse, and one negative.Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 6:04, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Arby,I like this idea best. Just trying to sort out the best approach. The standard way to run a windlass is with 2 foot switches on deck, one forward and one reverse. The deck switches pick up solenoids that send full battery voltage to the motor to make it run forward or backward. I'd prefer to keep this arrangement and not need a throttle for the controller. Couldn't I just use the foot switches to apply a fixed voltage via a voltage divider to the throttle input of the controller? I'm assuming that if I had a 24V motor and I input 1/2 throttle the motor would run full speed with my 48V supply. Can anyone suggest a controller for this application? Looking at max 1500 watts.Thanks,Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 18:43, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Easy. No problem.Use a brush motor controller to modulate the 48v to what ever voltage you'd like.Don't exceed the rated RPM of the original motor. You can monitor the apparent voltage with a simple DC voltmeter.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 27, 2014, at 4:30 PM, "oak oak_box@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Can you really not tap off the 48V battery bank at 24 or 36V?It's not ideal, but hopefully you wouldn't need to run the windlass long enough to drain half the bank.From: "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: "electricboats@yahoogroups.com" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] 48V Windlass
Mark,Thanks. I'd like to eliminate the need for more batteries.Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 15:21, "Mark F mark.internet@yahoo.ca [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:1500 watts at 24 volts would be 62.5 Amps.Would take a few DC/DC converters.Possibly you could use the DC/DC to charge a small battery for the windlass.Maybe some Dcell sized NIMH or Lipo batteries.I beleive you can pull 10C out of most batteries. So 6 Amphr batteries would probably provide the current (60 amps).The question would be how long do you need to use the motor and how much time is available to recharge.just one ideaFrom: "clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 4:05:32 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] 48V Windlass
Hi group, My 12 volt windlass motor went out and the whole unit is not worth fixing. I've been researching new ones. I've found a couple manufacturers that make ones that run on 24V and 32V. That got me thinking, I've got this huge 48V propulsion bank at my disposal. I called Ideal Windlass and they are checking with their motor supplier about a 48V motor. I believe they are DC series motors. If I can't get a 48V windlass, could I step down my 48V to 32V or even 24V? We are talking around 1500 watts. I'm wondering if I could parallel a few DC/DC converters, if they could handle the inrush. Is there a simpler way? Thanks, Chris
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Can anyone explain, or point me to a schematic of the internal wiring of a 3 lead motor as discussed below. I've scoured the web and can't find what I'm looking for. My assumption is the the 3 leads are F1, F2, and A. I just can't picture how things are wired internally to allow forward and reverse just by swapping which F lead voltage is applied to.Thanks,Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 11:06, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Hi Chris,Your voltage will be unregulated, leading to excessive motor speed.A brushed motor controller naturally runs on the negative leg (nice smirk, Myles!), so a single controller would work just fine. You could also build a voltage regulator to limit the potential, with the balance of the energy (50%) going to heat. Since the windlass is a low duty-cycle, this isn't much of a problem.Go with the motor controller to make the best use of your battery power.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 11:04 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:How about something as simple as a high power resistor(s) in series with the 48V DC supply sized right resistance wise to cut the voltage to the motor in half? I found some power divert resistors at a solar/wind power site. The resistor would get warm but only for a couple minutes. Thoughts?Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 9:23, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Put the motor controller on the negative (common) lead. Your windless motor will be running off the "top" is the string, but no problem. Just make sure it's not sharing a common ground with the house bank.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 8:36 AM, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Worst case: use two controllers.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 28, 2014, at 7:46 AM, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Oh, I forgot to mention that the motor has 3 leads; one forward, one reverse, and one negative.Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 28, 2014, at 6:04, "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Arby,I like this idea best. Just trying to sort out the best approach. The standard way to run a windlass is with 2 foot switches on deck, one forward and one reverse. The deck switches pick up solenoids that send full battery voltage to the motor to make it run forward or backward. I'd prefer to keep this arrangement and not need a throttle for the controller. Couldn't I just use the foot switches to apply a fixed voltage via a voltage divider to the throttle input of the controller? I'm assuming that if I had a 24V motor and I input 1/2 throttle the motor would run full speed with my 48V supply. Can anyone suggest a controller for this application? Looking at max 1500 watts.Thanks,Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 18:43, "Arby Bernt arbybernt@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Easy. No problem.Use a brush motor controller to modulate the 48v to what ever voltage you'd like.Don't exceed the rated RPM of the original motor. You can monitor the apparent voltage with a simple DC voltmeter.
Be Well,Arby
On Jun 27, 2014, at 4:30 PM, "oak oak_box@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:Can you really not tap off the 48V battery bank at 24 or 36V?It's not ideal, but hopefully you wouldn't need to run the windlass long enough to drain half the bank.From: "Chris Hudson clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: "electricboats@yahoogroups.com" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] 48V Windlass
Mark,Thanks. I'd like to eliminate the need for more batteries.Chris
Sent from myPhone
On Jun 27, 2014, at 15:21, "Mark F mark.internet@yahoo.ca [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:1500 watts at 24 volts would be 62.5 Amps.Would take a few DC/DC converters.Possibly you could use the DC/DC to charge a small battery for the windlass.Maybe some Dcell sized NIMH or Lipo batteries.I beleive you can pull 10C out of most batteries. So 6 Amphr batteries would probably provide the current (60 amps).The question would be how long do you need to use the motor and how much time is available to recharge.just one ideaFrom: "clh5_98@yahoo.com [electricboats]" <electricboats@yahoogroups.com>
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2014 4:05:32 PM
Subject: [Electric Boats] 48V Windlass
Hi group, My 12 volt windlass motor went out and the whole unit is not worth fixing. I've been researching new ones. I've found a couple manufacturers that make ones that run on 24V and 32V. That got me thinking, I've got this huge 48V propulsion bank at my disposal. I called Ideal Windlass and they are checking with their motor supplier about a 48V motor. I believe they are DC series motors. If I can't get a 48V windlass, could I step down my 48V to 32V or even 24V? We are talking around 1500 watts. I'm wondering if I could parallel a few DC/DC converters, if they could handle the inrush. Is there a simpler way? Thanks, Chris
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