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This is the converter I used. Works fine for me, as I don't really have any real heavy draw stuff on my 12v house bank like wenches etc; but it should still work fine to fill the house bank back up after occasional intermittent heavy amp draw use.
On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 11:51 AM, ryanwestbrookcary1@yahoo.com
<ryanwestbrookcary1@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hello Ryan! Good name! I'm Ryan also.
On my setup, I knew that my house requirements were sufficient to really need their own bank, so I have 2 qty Grp 27 deep cycles in parallel, and seperable by means of a 3-way batter switch. I did this for the reason previously stated, as to be able to isolate a starting battery for the main engine, in my case an old evinrude 140 converted from b.s. vro to mix.
The 48v bank for auxillary propulsion is chargeable by 4 qty 100w 12v renology panels, and by a small honda 2200w inverter generator pushing a 48v 25a switching power supply, isolated from the solar cells by large blocking diodes, and being fed parallel into a large analogue relay controlled by a charge controller.
I ended up getting an "intelligent" 25a 48v to 12v nominal converter and just putting it between them, and thus far it has worked just fine. It simply makes more sense, with my setup anyway, to charge the propulsion bank directly and have keep the house bank topped off. I have to be trying hard to pull 30a from it, except of course when starting the motor; and so the propulsion bank makes the cycle rate on my house bank pretty much non existent when at anchor, and when underway, between the solar array and the little genny, it keeps my big bank pretty stable unless I am at full throttle on the electric outboard and running everything imaginable on the house bank
Make sure that the grounds of the 2 banks are grounded (negative) common and bonded to the metal components of the hull, for safety and galvanic reasons. On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 10:45 AM, Reuben Trane via groups.io
<rjtrane=me.com@groups.io> wrote:
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