You should not need any short MC4 cables the panels come with 2) 2 foot long MC4 built in to them, the only MC4 cables you need to by will be the two long runs. I would buy those the largest gauge you can to keep line lose at a minimum.
As for the panel layout most charge controllers have a minimum cut off voltage under which they no longer charge regardless if there is amps available or not, so a string of two 24v panels may not have enough voltage to meet the controller minimum in the morning and evening, I would make the strings as large as you can with out going over the max open circuits voltage of the controller, so say the max open voltage of your controller is 120 volts , and you have 24 volt panels, then three panels in series would have nominal voltage of 72 volt and most likely have a max open voltage of less then 120 volts, and would always be above 48 volts when they are generating useful amps. You would need to read the label on the back of you panels to verify all the above is correct. As well as the charge controller manual, but 2) 24 volt panels in series might not make enough voltage to get over the voltage threshold on your controller. If I where would double check these numbers.
They make CANBUS to USB dongles, those would be a good way to see the raw data, also NMEA2000 is basically a subset of CANBUS so a lot of marine gear would "see" some to the BMS messages and may show them as values on universal displays. Normally as batteries, the BMS maker may have list of messages they send and devices they know read them correctly .
I have updated the layout diagram. Most if not all components are purchased already. It is the small items that have not been acquired yet but they do add up that is why I am asking for help in assuring that the layout is correct.
When you start to add up the cost of combiner boxes and #1/0 gauge cable and 100amp dc amp meters and shunts I don't care to order incorrectly.
Also I need to know how to access the can bus on my BMS. There has to be an easy way to get that data. I'm going to take apart the grill over the board in the contactor box and see if there is an outlet.
The thing that bothers me with this layout is that if for some reason the contactor trips because of any faults with the QANBUSS BMS then I would be lucky to only blow a fuse in the 440HVA or so they reiterate at the Missouri Wind website and videos.
Also does anyone make a MC4 cable calculator as I'm having a hard time calculat ing the number of connectors I need and where to get the seemingly short ones from?
Arden
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