T-Pain Is On A Boat: April 2021

Friday, April 30, 2021

Re: [electricboats] One engine down...looking for solutions/suggestions

Oh, I would be very interested in your current draw vs speed in different conditions - flat, 1m seas. Are you running 48v?

Thanks

On Sat, 1 May 2021, 7:58 am Reuben Trane via groups.io, <rjtrane=me.com@groups.io> wrote:

I have a 12m cat displacing over 20,000# and have installed a pair of Motenergy 10kW water-cooled motors from thunderstruck-ev.com. Their motor mount/reduction made installation straight forward. I have a top speed of 6.3 knots and top cruise if 6.0 knots I'd suggest building your LFP pack with Winston, CALB or Sinopoly cells I have a Chargery BMS from AliExpress 600A that works for me

you should be able to calculate your reduction using data from your existing motors and hopefully use your existing shaft and props

im willing to share any info you'd like?

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Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

I was specifically referring to over computerized systems on smaller boats, susceptible to humid, salty atmosphere. . If the installation is kept more rudimentary and simpler, it can assumed it probably would be less troublesome. Larger vessels that have extensive electronics, have more climate control and hardened electronics.

On 30/04/2021 7:16 p.m., Eric via groups.io wrote:

"Anyone considering going all electric propulsion in the salty ocean environment is being naive. The IC and computer components will corrode unless sealed circuit board tech, like in military, automotive ECUs and even in residential clothes dryers is used. That makes repair maintenance difficult....unless spare sealed circuit boards can be easily swapped out."

Interesting position, and not difficult to agree with the reasoning. I'm sorry to hear that your installation has led to many component failures over time due to environmental factors.

But in practice, I have not found this to be a problem. I converted my boat in 2009 to ABYC specs, and she has been in the water every day since, excepting haul outs for bottom maintenance. Many of my components are EV (land based) spec'ed items, like my Elcon charger, and the only failure that I have had so far was a main contactor that I mounted upside down, in the "catch water" position, because it made the wiring easier for me at the time. After the failure, I read the manufacturer's specs and they clearly stated to not do what I did. The new contactor is installed in the correct orientation. Funny thing is that the water that did the damage was fresh water runoff from rain, salt water was not a factor. Overall, there is minor surface rust on some ferrous components, but nothing that has affected performance or function.

Speaking of performance, I am running a pack of 16 LiFePO4 prismatic cells with no BMS other than autonomous "mini-BMS" modules on each cell that do minor top balancing, and have had no noticeable cell drift in 12 years. I store the cells at 100% state of charge for months at a time, and the pack still tests out to more than the original 160ah cell spec, but capacity is down about 5% from the initial installation testing.

Much of what I read here sounds like people are over-thinking their designs and solving theoretical problems that may not be as much of an issue as they sound like they could be.

Back to the original comment, after 12 years, the ocean environment has had no significant affect on my electric drive systems. I'l let you know if any problems crop up in the next decade or so...

Eric
1964 Cheoy Lee Bermuda 30, Serenity - 5.5kW drive, 8kWh LiFePO4 traction bank
Marina del Rey, CA

Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

Yep, any marine drive system greater than 50V should consider the ABYC T-30 specifications. If the installation meets these “higher voltage” system specifications, then an insurance company should not have a valid reason for declining coverage due to voltage. Of course, in practice, they often decline coverage for a variety of unrealistic reasons.

Eric
1964 Cheoy Lee Bermuda 30, Serenity
Marina del Rey, CA

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Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

“Anyone considering going all electric propulsion in the salty ocean environment is being naive. The IC and computer components will corrode unless sealed circuit board tech, like in military, automotive ECUs and even in residential clothes dryers is used. That makes repair maintenance difficult....unless spare sealed circuit boards can be easily swapped out.”

Interesting position, and not difficult to agree with the reasoning. I’m sorry to hear that your installation has led to many component failures over time due to environmental factors.

But in practice, I have not found this to be a problem. I converted my boat in 2009 to ABYC specs, and she has been in the water every day since, excepting haul outs for bottom maintenance. Many of my components are EV (land based) spec’ed items, like my Elcon charger, and the only failure that I have had so far was a main contactor that I mounted upside down, in the “catch water” position, because it made the wiring easier for me at the time. After the failure, I read the manufacturer’s specs and they clearly stated to not do what I did. The new contactor is installed in the correct orientation. Funny thing is that the water that did the damage was fresh water runoff from rain, salt water was not a factor. Overall, there is minor surface rust on some ferrous components, but nothing that has affected performance or function.

Speaking of performance, I am running a pack of 16 LiFePO4 prismatic cells with no BMS other than autonomous “mini-BMS” modules on each cell that do minor top balancing, and have had no noticeable cell drift in 12 years. I store the cells at 100% state of charge for months at a time, and the pack still tests out to more than the original 160ah cell spec, but capacity is down about 5% from the initial installation testing.

Much of what I read here sounds like people are over-thinking their designs and solving theoretical problems that may not be as much of an issue as they sound like they could be.

Back to the original comment, after 12 years, the ocean environment has had no significant affect on my electric drive systems. I’l let you know if any problems crop up in the next decade or so...

Eric
1964 Cheoy Lee Bermuda 30, Serenity - 5.5kW drive, 8kWh LiFePO4 traction bank
Marina del Rey, CA

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Re: [electricboats] One engine down...looking for solutions/suggestions

I have a 12m cat displacing over 20,000# and have installed a pair of Motenergy 10kW water-cooled motors from thunderstruck-ev.com. Their motor mount/reduction made installation straight forward. I have a top speed of 6.3 knots and top cruise if 6.0 knots I’d suggest building your LFP pack with Winston, CALB or Sinopoly cells I have a Chargery BMS from AliExpress 600A that works for me

you should be able to calculate your reduction using data from your existing motors and hopefully use your existing shaft and props

im willing to share any info you’d like?

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[electricboats] Regen under sail

Hi all,

Very interesting discussions going on, thank you for your inputs.

I was told that AC induction motors like mine are very bad /useless for regen.

Would you agree?

Aren't AC induction motors used in EVs with "relatively good" regen?

Cheers

Mich

On Sat., 1 May 2021, 07:17 Randy Cain, <randylcain@gmail.com> wrote:

Cycling through 4x series-connected 12v batteries will require a high current, isolated multiplexing circuit. The loss generated by the switching components will likely be as great a loss as a buck converter from 48v to 12v. And, the electrical noise introduced onto the DC bus will need to be handled because it will be pretty extreme since overlapping during the switch won't work due to the need to be isolated (so as not to get 24v when the circuit expected 12v). I recommend multiple smaller (~50a) buck conveters because they run nicely in parallel and can give you some redundancy. I run 4x 50a 96v to 12v converters on a main 12vdc bus and 4x 15a 96v to 12v converters on 4x isolated special purpose 12vdc busses.

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Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

Cycling through 4x series-connected 12v batteries will require a high current, isolated multiplexing circuit. The loss generated by the switching components will likely be as great a loss as a buck converter from 48v to 12v. And, the electrical noise introduced onto the DC bus will need to be handled because it will be pretty extreme since overlapping during the switch won't work due to the need to be isolated (so as not to get 24v when the circuit expected 12v). I recommend multiple smaller (~50a) buck conveters because they run nicely in parallel and can give you some redundancy. I run 4x 50a 96v to 12v converters on a main 12vdc bus and 4x 15a 96v to 12v converters on 4x isolated special purpose 12vdc busses.

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Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

Ø I did wonder but haven't tried to figure out if you could run the DCDC converters in parallel, do you know?

For sure you can parallel modules/converters that are designed to allow that.

As example: Vicor DCDC modules used in Vicor Megapac power supply racks. The Megapac units provide a 200-250vDC rail voltage to all modules in the rack. Individual module outputs can be connected in series or in parallel, with certain restrictions or techniques. That's an extreme example, and only has a single DCDC input source, but fundamentally, one can have a design that allows paralleling DCDC outputs with distinctly different sources. The challenge is to ensure current sharing of the DCDC units. The Vicor example I mentioned will automatically current share if subsequent DCDC put into Slave mode with one unit set as Master. But you can also passively achieve current sharing if all the DCDC outputs have very close load curves. Certainly you want these things to be current limiting (i.e. CV/CI), current protected, voltage protected, short protected, thermally protected, etc.

Re: [electricboats] One engine down...looking for solutions/suggestions

I think there are two issues that electric yachters have to address and the answers will likely be different for different kinds of users.

1: What is the fastest speed I can go and for how long?

Speed and draw are not linear. You might triple the draw to double the speed. And of course at some point "going faster" becomes impractical regardless of how the motor is powered.

You'll want to figure out how fast you NEED to be able to go and for how long, and then work backwards to find a motor that can deliver that much power, and then work backwards to figure out how big a bank of batteries you'll need to support that load.

I suspect this is much more complicated for a cat than a monohull.

2: What is the longest time you want to be able to run the motor at a SOG you consider acceptable?

There will be a point on the graph of speed and power draw where the boat is moving fast enough to be acceptable, and the draw is low enough to allow a fairly extended range. Once you determine that point, you can extrapolate how big a bank of batteries you will want to have to determine the distances you can cross with the motor. Practically speaking, that is going to be somewhere around 40nm in flat seas with no wind. If you have requirements to be able to motor a longer distance you'll have to look at extraordinarily large battery banks, or battery options that will take you away from LiFePo4.

Compounding this analysis is the idea that the prop size for an electric motor may not be the same size as for a diesel, and you may want to try and do regen while sailing which likely means you won't use a folding prop.

The final thing you need to consider is how to charge the battery bank. If you want to rely on solar you'll need to think about how much solar you can install on your boat. You can make about 7.5A at 48V per 100W of solar per day for an "average day". If you had a 400A bank and you wanted to charge the bank in one day, you'd need 5,300W of solar.

You might want to install a generator for the purpose of charging the batteries. That means you will still have to keep fuel storage and polishing, exhaust, and other systems for that motor, and you'll still be doing routine maintenance; but you may do a lot less depending on how much you have to run that generator.

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Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

Any voltage system above 50V is very hard to get boat insurance for.

Kai

On 30 Apr 2021, at 19:53, Ryan Sweet <ryan@ryansweet.org> wrote:

I guess that's my point is if the system is capable of 96v its a different thing and should be treated as such. IIUC, Morris like the me1515 etc are most efficient at the higher end of their voltage range. I think the reason most of us want to keep things at 48v is that the simplicity of the system and the cost of the batteries makes it worth the efficiency trade off and lower max power.

On Apr 30, 2021, at 11:46, Jeff LaCoursiere <jeff@stratustalk.com> wrote:
Above 50v there are safety considerations that most DIY folks aren't ready or willing to entertain... I think even some regulations? Anyone know more about that?

Cheers,

Jeff LaCoursiere
s/v Angels Quest
www.aquasparc.com

On 4/30/21 1:42 PM, Ryan Sweet wrote:
The other thing about 48v vs 96v is really why not just run at 96v the whole time. Basically if you are making it possible then all the rest of the system has to be specd to 96v and I don't see the reason to not keep it that way?

On Apr 30, 2021, at 11:12, Ryan Sweet via groups.io <ryan=ryansweet.org@groups.io> wrote:
On Apr 30, 2021, at 9:38 AM, Carsten via groups.io <Carstensemail=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Another thing, how about making the motor wattage output adjustable, so it is possible to use eg. 96V for a burst mode ? Many 48V motors can be powered by 96V (or higher).

I assume that the wiring can handle that. Making two sets of banks 48V, to be serial connected to 96V.

The short "event" should of course be managed by the BMS/power management system.

This is interesting and something Ive wondered about but from what I've been able to discern it requires dynamically reprogramming the motor controller. You could imagine a switching setup that let you have 48v traction banks in parallel but then to change them to series. I wasn't able to figure out a way to use the Seven Gen4 to do this kind of thing, at least from reading the manual. I fear I am about to venture into the world of the DVT software though and maybe its capable of that. I suppose if a person spent enough on controllers and cables you could have a dual system with two controllers and switch between them but I think you approach the point of diminishing returns.

However, it points to a possible opportunity or maybe just a future feature that advanced motor controllers will enable. With EV regen becoming more popular in controllers, I would not be surprised if some battery management features also start to migrate to controllers as well.

To be true, things made in China is not my cup of tea, but in these days, unfortunately simply unavoidable !

I was a supervisor in China for several years, and know how they make things, and all of QC is not like in the West.

Buy a ME1616 electromotor. Made in China, then sold in the West.

Buy yourself a german or US car. Half of the smaller parts in it are made in China by now.

Company supervisors are not in China now, because of the Made in China virus.

Who wants to spend 2-4 weeks in quarantine to go for an inspection ??

Who's checking the quality now ?

As I spin up my own commercial efforts I have been working with colleagues in CN to understand the quality dynamics and the manufacturing landscape and while I think some of these comments are in a general sense applicable, I think that the demands of growing sophistication in their domestic market, growing domestic regulatory regime, and a drive to differentiate by rising to the QC and supply chain standards of Korea, Japan, US, and Europe is pressuring a lot of CN companies to advance. I think now it is more a story of doing homework to understand your partners and their processes.

Now, the current chaos of the global shipping / logistics is another story! The Suez Canal incident has cost me several weeks and the knock-on effects will continue for months.

However, I believe that new, checked, LiFePO4 batteries will last my sailing life out, but the electronics is another concern.

Especially in a marine environment (humid and salty).

Can you provide recommendations where to setup these (rather large) electronic regulators/inverters/BMS'es in the boat ?

I guess IP rating is not relevant, if not encapsuled in IP-rated boxes.

If put into boxes, then there's a cooling issue...

As far from any wet bilge or dripping shaft or outdoor moisture as possible. In the cabin if you can. If exposed to moist air frequently try running some electric air warmer/dryers or a dehumidifier (when on shore power).
Working hard on the ultimate solution for my own EMS/Y system conversion design.

Cheers, guys

Carsten

Hint : EMS/Y = Electric Motor Sailing Yacht ;-)
On Friday, 30 April 2021, 02:46:25 GMT+8, Jeff LaCoursiere <jeff@stratustalk.com> wrote:
We haven't had any bad cells imported yet, knock wood. We *are* doing our best to burn down our offices with our BMS experiments though :) Also, our latest batch was all EVE 280AH cells, the Lishen 272AH are apparently "all gone".

Another cool idea we are kicking around... we want our 48v pack to have a 12v tap, so you can use it as your house battery as well as your traction battery. I'm disappointed in the available downconverters, mostly current limited to 30-60A. Maybe that would be enough for your house, but it wouldn't do it for mine.

So we want to try to cycle through internal banks of four cells, very quickly (like 10khz), connecting them in turn to the 12v tap. We believe that this way you will be able to pull the full 1C discharge of the 16 cell pack (280A), but at 12v! We hope to maintain balance in discharge by cycling very fast, but the BMS should pick up the slack.

Cheers,

Jeff LaCoursiere
s/v Angels Quest
www.aquasparc.com

On 4/29/21 11:34 AM, Carsten via groups.io wrote:
Hi, Jeff

Did you experience single/multiple cell dropouts from Lishen batteries so far ?
On Thursday, 29 April 2021, 23:22:13 GMT+8, Jeff LaCoursiere <jeff@stratustalk.com> wrote:
I wanted to comment on 1) below - we have that same concept in mind. We are working on a BMS design that will basically allow cells to be "dropped out" of series, the output run through a boost circuit to maintain steady voltage. There are of course limits to how many can drop out and we are very much at the experimental stage here, but there is some hope :)

Jeff LaCoursiere

s/v Angels Quest

www.aquasparc.com

On 4/29/21 10:06 AM, oreillygb@hotmail.com wrote:
First Draft of Schematic. Using Lishen 202Ah. I decided to go with the BMS only actively controlling the charge side of the circuit and opted for passive monitoring on the load side. Using a victron 712 for monitoring and hopefully can connect it to a relay to shut off charge circuit at predetermined voltage. Guys please tell me what I have missed.

Couple of points.

1) Passive Load monitoring. I have decided to go this route as i understand that the load BMS can turn off for 2 reasons, obviously first is if whole bank drops to a lower than 20%SOC and secondly if single cells fail. From my perspective if I have a single cell failure I would rather still be able to use the other 15 cells than have no power. If I let my bank drop to below SOC of 20% that's on me.
2) Want to keep house bank separate for now, mainly as if I have to shut off my 48v bank for low SOC I don't want to have to worry about all my electronics being offline.
3) I want a separate relay to shut off charge current so that I can set this manually. When I come back from a sail i want to be able to top bank up to about a 70% SOC for storage. Then on the day I want to sail I can top it off o 90%
--   Jeff LaCoursiere  StratusTalk, Inc.  703 496 4990 x108  815 546 6599 cell
--
Jeff LaCoursiere
s/v Angels Quest
St Thomas USVI
--

Jeff LaCoursiere
STRATUSTALK, INC. / CTO

Phone: +1 703.496.4990 x108

Mobile: +1 815.546.6599

Email: jeff@stratustalk.com

Website: https://www.stratustalk.com

Address: One Freedom Square
13th Floor
Reston, VA 20190
--
Jeff LaCoursiere
s/v Angels Quest
St Thomas USVI
--

Jeff LaCoursiere
STRATUSTALK, INC. / CTO

Phone: +1 703.496.4990 x108

Mobile: +1 815.546.6599

Email: jeff@stratustalk.com

Website: https://www.stratustalk.com

Address: One Freedom Square
13th Floor
Reston, VA 20190

--
Jeff LaCoursiere
s/v Angels Quest
St Thomas USVI

Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

s/Morris/motors/

Autocorrect is giving me a heck of a time today.

On Apr 30, 2021, at 11:53, Ryan Sweet via groups.io <ryan=ryansweet.org@groups.io> wrote:

I guess that's my point is if the system is capable of 96v its a different thing and should be treated as such. IIUC, Morris like the me1515 etc are most efficient at the higher end of their voltage range. I think the reason most of us want to keep things at 48v is that the simplicity of the system and the cost of the batteries makes it worth the efficiency trade off and lower max power.

On Apr 30, 2021, at 11:46, Jeff LaCoursiere <jeff@stratustalk.com> wrote:
Above 50v there are safety considerations that most DIY folks aren't ready or willing to entertain... I think even some regulations? Anyone know more about that?

Cheers,

Jeff LaCoursiere
s/v Angels Quest
www.aquasparc.com

On 4/30/21 1:42 PM, Ryan Sweet wrote:
The other thing about 48v vs 96v is really why not just run at 96v the whole time. Basically if you are making it possible then all the rest of the system has to be specd to 96v and I don't see the reason to not keep it that way?

On Apr 30, 2021, at 11:12, Ryan Sweet via groups.io <ryan=ryansweet.org@groups.io> wrote:
On Apr 30, 2021, at 9:38 AM, Carsten via groups.io <Carstensemail=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Another thing, how about making the motor wattage output adjustable, so it is possible to use eg. 96V for a burst mode ? Many 48V motors can be powered by 96V (or higher).

I assume that the wiring can handle that. Making two sets of banks 48V, to be serial connected to 96V.

The short "event" should of course be managed by the BMS/power management system.

This is interesting and something Ive wondered about but from what I've been able to discern it requires dynamically reprogramming the motor controller. You could imagine a switching setup that let you have 48v traction banks in parallel but then to change them to series. I wasn't able to figure out a way to use the Seven Gen4 to do this kind of thing, at least from reading the manual. I fear I am about to venture into the world of the DVT software though and maybe its capable of that. I suppose if a person spent enough on controllers and cables you could have a dual system with two controllers and switch between them but I think you approach the point of diminishing returns.

However, it points to a possible opportunity or maybe just a future feature that advanced motor controllers will enable. With EV regen becoming more popular in controllers, I would not be surprised if some battery management features also start to migrate to controllers as well.

To be true, things made in China is not my cup of tea, but in these days, unfortunately simply unavoidable !

I was a supervisor in China for several years, and know how they make things, and all of QC is not like in the West.

Buy a ME1616 electromotor. Made in China, then sold in the West.

Buy yourself a german or US car. Half of the smaller parts in it are made in China by now.

Company supervisors are not in China now, because of the Made in China virus.

Who wants to spend 2-4 weeks in quarantine to go for an inspection ??

Who's checking the quality now ?

As I spin up my own commercial efforts I have been working with colleagues in CN to understand the quality dynamics and the manufacturing landscape and while I think some of these comments are in a general sense applicable, I think that the demands of growing sophistication in their domestic market, growing domestic regulatory regime, and a drive to differentiate by rising to the QC and supply chain standards of Korea, Japan, US, and Europe is pressuring a lot of CN companies to advance. I think now it is more a story of doing homework to understand your partners and their processes.

Now, the current chaos of the global shipping / logistics is another story! The Suez Canal incident has cost me several weeks and the knock-on effects will continue for months.

However, I believe that new, checked, LiFePO4 batteries will last my sailing life out, but the electronics is another concern.

Especially in a marine environment (humid and salty).

Can you provide recommendations where to setup these (rather large) electronic regulators/inverters/BMS'es in the boat ?

I guess IP rating is not relevant, if not encapsuled in IP-rated boxes.

If put into boxes, then there's a cooling issue...

As far from any wet bilge or dripping shaft or outdoor moisture as possible. In the cabin if you can. If exposed to moist air frequently try running some electric air warmer/dryers or a dehumidifier (when on shore power).
Working hard on the ultimate solution for my own EMS/Y system conversion design.

Cheers, guys

Carsten

Hint : EMS/Y = Electric Motor Sailing Yacht ;-)
On Friday, 30 April 2021, 02:46:25 GMT+8, Jeff LaCoursiere <jeff@stratustalk.com> wrote:
We haven't had any bad cells imported yet, knock wood. We *are* doing our best to burn down our offices with our BMS experiments though :) Also, our latest batch was all EVE 280AH cells, the Lishen 272AH are apparently "all gone".

Another cool idea we are kicking around... we want our 48v pack to have a 12v tap, so you can use it as your house battery as well as your traction battery. I'm disappointed in the available downconverters, mostly current limited to 30-60A. Maybe that would be enough for your house, but it wouldn't do it for mine.

So we want to try to cycle through internal banks of four cells, very quickly (like 10khz), connecting them in turn to the 12v tap. We believe that this way you will be able to pull the full 1C discharge of the 16 cell pack (280A), but at 12v! We hope to maintain balance in discharge by cycling very fast, but the BMS should pick up the slack.

Cheers,

Jeff LaCoursiere
s/v Angels Quest
www.aquasparc.com

On 4/29/21 11:34 AM, Carsten via groups.io wrote:
Hi, Jeff

Did you experience single/multiple cell dropouts from Lishen batteries so far ?
On Thursday, 29 April 2021, 23:22:13 GMT+8, Jeff LaCoursiere <jeff@stratustalk.com> wrote:
I wanted to comment on 1) below - we have that same concept in mind. We are working on a BMS design that will basically allow cells to be "dropped out" of series, the output run through a boost circuit to maintain steady voltage. There are of course limits to how many can drop out and we are very much at the experimental stage here, but there is some hope :)

Jeff LaCoursiere

s/v Angels Quest

www.aquasparc.com

On 4/29/21 10:06 AM, oreillygb@hotmail.com wrote:
First Draft of Schematic. Using Lishen 202Ah. I decided to go with the BMS only actively controlling the charge side of the circuit and opted for passive monitoring on the load side. Using a victron 712 for monitoring and hopefully can connect it to a relay to shut off charge circuit at predetermined voltage. Guys please tell me what I have missed.

Couple of points.

1) Passive Load monitoring. I have decided to go this route as i understand that the load BMS can turn off for 2 reasons, obviously first is if whole bank drops to a lower than 20%SOC and secondly if single cells fail. From my perspective if I have a single cell failure I would rather still be able to use the other 15 cells than have no power. If I let my bank drop to below SOC of 20% that's on me.
2) Want to keep house bank separate for now, mainly as if I have to shut off my 48v bank for low SOC I don't want to have to worry about all my electronics being offline.
3) I want a separate relay to shut off charge current so that I can set this manually. When I come back from a sail i want to be able to top bank up to about a 70% SOC for storage. Then on the day I want to sail I can top it off o 90%
--   Jeff LaCoursiere  StratusTalk, Inc.  703 496 4990 x108  815 546 6599 cell
--
Jeff LaCoursiere
s/v Angels Quest
St Thomas USVI
--

Jeff LaCoursiere
STRATUSTALK, INC. / CTO

Phone: +1 703.496.4990 x108

Mobile: +1 815.546.6599

Email: jeff@stratustalk.com

Website: https://www.stratustalk.com

Address: One Freedom Square
13th Floor
Reston, VA 20190
--
Jeff LaCoursiere
s/v Angels Quest
St Thomas USVI
--

Jeff LaCoursiere
STRATUSTALK, INC. / CTO

Phone: +1 703.496.4990 x108

Mobile: +1 815.546.6599

Email: jeff@stratustalk.com

Website: https://www.stratustalk.com

Address: One Freedom Square
13th Floor
Reston, VA 20190

--
Jeff LaCoursiere
s/v Angels Quest
St Thomas USVI

T-Pain Is On A Boat

Friday, April 30, 2021

Re: [electricboats] One engine down...looking for solutions/suggestions

Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

Re: [electricboats] One engine down...looking for solutions/suggestions

[electricboats] Regen under sail

Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

Re: [electricboats] One engine down...looking for solutions/suggestions

Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

Re: [electricboats] Draft Schematic-Please give input

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