T-Pain Is On A Boat: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Direct Drive QS Hub Motors

You should be happy with the Thunderstruck kit.

--------------------------------------------
On Wed, 2/14/18, Michael Ryan mryanqld@gmail.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: Re: [Electric Boats] Re: Direct Drive QS Hub Motors
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, February 14, 2018, 10:52 PM

Hi All I have gone cold on the
QS motors for a number of reasons. My plan now is to buy a
5KW Thunderstruck kit complete with a reduction unit and fit
it to the Nordic 17. They seem to be the best value and are
a popular choice for DIY. I am OK with the mechanical side
of boat propulsion and basic 12 volt electrical systems but
have a lot to learn about electric motors and controllers. I
know this is dumb question and their are a lot of variables
but what LiFePO4 battery bank capacity do I need to get a
six hour run time

at
48v?

... My budget could run to 16 x 3.2 Volt 200ah Calbs or
Winstons is this enough? The motor used in the kit is a
ME1305.
On Mon,
Jan 15, 2018 at 1:37 PM, Michael Ryan <mryanqld@gmail.com>
wrote:
Although the QS
6000W motor I priced is designed for use on a small car and
not a ebike
type I am reconsidering this option. Their are questions
about their durability and to go for a conventional proved
motor is good advice. The design and fabrication of a thrust
limiter or reduction drive system for me is not a problem as
I have a mechanical background but only starting to get my
head around the electrical side. I can see some advantages
of indirect drive, proven components, no thrust on the
motor, ratio's can be very easily changed, lifts the
motor higher. The only disadvantage is power
loss.
Regarding correct prop size,
on a previous heavy
displacement sailboat fitted with a 30hp Yanmar
the theoretical hull speed was about 7..2 kts.
Full
engine RPM flat out
in calm water
with no wind resulted in a wave forming at the transom and a
noticeable squatting down in the stern. The engine was also
loaded up and starting to blow black smoke. I believe that
this boat had the optimum engine/propeller for it. The
squatting down and stern wave is the boat trying to get up
on the plane which is obviously not going to happen. Backing
the throttle of 50% only reduced the speed to 5.5 kts.
The Nordic 17
based on a waterline lenght
of 16 feet will have a theoretical
hull speed of about 5.1 kts.
I suspect the sweet spot for this hull will be around 4.5
kts.
On Mon, Jan 15, 2018 at
5:58 AM, Matthew Geier matthew@acfr..usyd.edu.au
[electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com
> wrote:

I have 'electrifed' a similar Nordic double ender -
a project that

probably inspired 'mryanqld'. These boats need very
little power - I've

found that the 'sweet spot' cruising speed for my
hull, the system is

running only at 1500w.. I can wind the power up more, but
little extra

speed is gained for the extra power, the boat just starts to
pull a

bigger wave behind it.

I'm using the orginal prop that was on the boat when it
used to have a

5.7hp two cylinder, two stroke 'Blaxland'. I believe
the prop is the one

that came with the original Blaxland engine and designed for
the high

torque two stroke. Certainly back in the 'stink pot'
era when the clutch

started to wear I'd had the clutch slip instead of the
prop cavitating

when the boat was under load (lots of teens hanging of the
back wanting

to be towed through the water!)

I direct drive a Perm 132, although when my Trojan's
finally give up, I

may go to 48v and put a 2:1 reduction on it, the higher
voltage will

lower the current and the heat losses. (But the new gearbox
losses may

be higher than my current heat losses :-)

--
Kind regards Mick 0414 264
312

--
Kind regards Mick 0414 264
312

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