Tuesday, May 2, 2017

Re: [Electric Boats] Gonna Try Direct Drive.

 

Cooler is more efficient

The belt system gives you a maxi reduction of 2.5, then you need two-belt system.  With electric engine, you may need 1 to 5 reduction. Due to the belt tension, you need three bearings at least on you shaft…. loss of efficiency. To modify, you have to change everything included belts…. Push the shaft out …. Shaft seals???... remove the boat from water= money????

Why to be complicated and expensive when you can do sample? Are you a German car engineer?

It took me two hours (4 + 4 nuts&bolts) to change my gearhead from 1/3 to 1/5. There are plenty of industrial gear-heads (new or used) very cheap / Dodge, Baldor, Parker… Most of them have thrust bearing.

The electric engines have a lot of torque.  I use  thick plates and brackets with walls. It shakes when it starts. The motor plate was laser cut

Hope it helps

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017, 11:14:10 AM GMT+12, bob jennings sabre281@yahoo.com [electricboats] <electricboats@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

Saw you post on & pictures on sailnet earlier today.
Because I'm planning on playing with the ratios, I wanted to know what the max temp you can run the Mars/Montgomery motor. According to the guys at Thunderstruck, 140 F is the tipping point. Lynch/Sarenti? recommends the same.
Let us know how this works out for you.

Bob

--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 5/2/17, king_of_neworleans <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Subject: [Electric Boats] Gonna Try Direct Drive. [2 Attachments]
To: electricboats@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, May 2, 2017, 9:56 AM


 









[Attachment(s) from king_of_neworleans
included below]


My original setup was BLDC bolted to a cast iron
enclosed reduction gearbox, mounted on a thrust plate bolted
to angle irons attached to the motor bed stringers, shaft
coupled to the gearbox output. It was 2:1 and I thought
maybe I was overpropped with the 14x10 3 blade. So, I tried
a 3:1 gearbox and instead of increasing efficiency, it
actually ran at slightly reduced efficiency. The obvious
thing to try, after a higher ratio didn't work, is a
lower ratio. Namely, 1:1. So I built a thrust bearing mount
for the motor, and I will bolt it to the thrust plate the
same way that the reduction gear was bolted to it, and prop
shaft coupled same way. See pics below.

No idea whether this will cause cooling issues
so I will be watching it closely with the IR thermometer.
The motor has an internal thermistor so I will also maybe
connect that to the Kelly controller and set a reasonable
overtemp alarm point and overtemp shutdown. I suspect the
optimum ratio is just a bit above or a bit below 2:1 but
maybe getting all the gears out of the drive train will
offer a little more efficiency. Just speculating. Anyway I
hope to get this thing installed today.

Assembly Mk I turned out to be too wide to fit
between the stringers, so I cut the front and back face
plates down to where they no longer extend beyond the side
plates. Hopefully all is good, now. Motor is the ME0913.
Thrust bearing came from Glen-L. Stub shaft in the assembly
was just to locate the bearing accurately relative to the
motor axis.

Fingers
crossed. Now its time for my morning cappuccino and gitter
done.











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